1948 Chrysler New Yorker. Oil Change questions

Go up one post. They only made the 2 types of filters.

The picture I have came from a the Chrysler parts book, title page below. It has already been a world of help to me for the entire two weeks I've owned the car. I turned this up after a quick google search: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-Chrysler-Part-Numbers-Book-List-Guide-Catalog-Interchange-Illustrations-OEM-/360469982745

Below are a few more pages.

Thanks for the tips Rusty. I bought oil and filters today. I ordered a couple filters so I can compare them. I figure I'll use them all eventually. I bought a NOS and an "older/original" aftermarket, and then also a WIX.. I'll post some pics of what I get and probably make a simple picture tutorial when I'm done. A lot of guys do that on a Saab forum that I visit every now and then...its super helpful for us inexperienced DIYers.

After I put everything back together, how full should I fill the canister? To the top I'm guessing?

I have the owner's manual and shop manual...I didn't realize there were so many things to oil and check when I bought it but I don't mind. One thing at a time though I guess.

Fill it as high as is convenient. It doesn't make much difference if you don't fill it at all, it will fill itself. You won't have much oil pressure until it fills, but cars get oil and filter changes every day and hardly anybody fills the filter. I will say the new cars have much smaller filters. But, there is enough oil in the bearings to protect them for a minute while pressure builds up.

The parts list in your attachment only goes through 1948. I have a 1949 Windsor. The engine is a C45W, I think (I'm not certain I know anything anymore). The eBay link you provided shows a parts catalog that includes the C45 engine. Would it be identical for the 1949?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1949-CHRYSLER-PARTS-CATALOG-ORIGINAL-C45-C46-C47-SERIES-MOPAR-BOOK-/131220796482?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item1e8d5e7442

Yes, it looks like that is the parts book for your C45, the link above shows some pages from the book.

I found an O ring and have bought a new filter. They are both in route. I was just informed that the clamp band has a top and bottom and the bottom interior dimension is smaller. My clamp band has a fixed nut. When properly installed, which way will the bolt face? I have my bolt facing from the front of the car towards the back when the bolt is positioned on the opposite side of the engine.

How do you identify the clamp band top and bottom?

Look at the band. If it is symmetrical top and bottom, it doesn't matter. If it is bigger on one side than the other, or shaped different, then put it on so the shape of the band matches the shape of the filter.

If I was closer I could look at it and tell you in 2 seconds, but going by the pictures, it looks symmetrical. I am afraid you are going to have to look at the band, and look at the filter. You may even have to pick it up. Don't worry, you won't get grease on you, if you wear rubber gloves.

I put em on both ways and they work fine.

Finally stopped the leak...(yeah, got my hands dirty). The O ring was 3-3/4". The.138 was too thin; a larger gauge seemed to work better. Sorry I don't know the exact gauge as they were unmarked. I could detect no discernible difference between the top and bottom of the clamp band. I did install it with the bolt head in the rear and tread forward. I assume that it was designed for access by a right hander. Anyway, now I can clean my garage floor which looks like a crime scene and at last get my antique back on the road. I do appreciate your generosity in sharing your knowledge.

Glad you figured it out!!!!

Just some more tech pic's for others who want to see 1949-54 housings / Fram C192PL O-ring info ect.

Take out of it what you want!

Bob

Hey guys, I appreciate all the help and advice on here, so I noticed where both my tie rods connect is right below oil pan and has been rubbing up against it. Any suggestions as to why this is. I know the pan is original.

The ball joints are tight to the pan. Have you had a helper turn the wheel while you are under the engine watching for contact? Is it happening now? Motor mounts is a great suggestion. Possibly allowing the engine to sit lower in the engine compartment. Mine here, right before I dropped the oil pan.

Hey Guys quick question so i did a little work on the car replaced head gasket and spark plugs and i put everything back together and now it wont start and it like spits from the top of the carburetor, any suggestions?

stuck valve. How long has it been sitting? Did you use old fuel last time you ran it?

Maybe 3 weeks and the valves were ok and nothing stuck. And yes the fuel is a few weeks old. There is a spring that goes to the carburetor linkage i think its called and i looked online and i think its not in the right place.

First thought is mixed up plug wires.

2nd thought, timing. Distributor in the right way round?

20 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

2nd thought, timing. Distributor in the right way round?

That could be as well.

I didn't see that he had pulled the distributor.

Yes the timing is correct, still not starting honestly thinking might be a bad wire.

Hanging onto this thread. I bought an overhauled 1947 323 cid long block some 15 years ago, which I now am struggling to get running. My previous experience with 323 L8s was with 40/41 editions that did not have any semi-integrated oil filter housing and I did not notice that the engine was without the filter housing. When I recently managed to get the oil pump going, oil was flowing all over the place from the open oil passages at the engines left rear.

Is there any source for an oil filter housing, has anyone made a (temporary) short for the oil passages?