Newbie with a 1957 Buick Super

OK, back to the oil pressure line and its connection via a brass compression fitting in the cylinder block. There is no provision for strain relief in the tube to the pressure gage.

You will have to really look, but it is not unusual that a crack in the tube occurs at the point it enters the fitting. This can result in a pretty good leak.

Dan

'57-76C

'57-56R

Most folk would have a line long enough to put a loop in it to provide strain relief.

There is one loop in the oil pressure line, but Dan is right about the abrupt bend at the connection point on the block...I would not be surprised to see a stress crack or break there.

I re-seated the oil filter housing and so far so good. The car has not idled for more than a few sputters at a time, so to really test the oil filter housing I need to get it idling better.

I am still going to keep my eye open for a spin-on conversion. Another reason I prefer the spin on is that the head of the long hex bolt on the current filter is completely rounded off, channel locks are the only way to get it off.

Which brings me to my next point.

The car will not run unless gas is manually poured down the carb. I have healthy fuel delivery to the carb, so that leaves the carburetor as the culprit.

I removed the carb and have discovered that it is a Carter AFB 2982S.

I am now in the process of rebuilding and refreshing this thing. Can anyone recommend a rebuild kit source for the Carter AFB?

I would also like to convert from a the stove-pipe choke to an electric choke. Anyone done that before?

Any general tips and advice regarding the carb is also appreciated.

With carb fixed, the engine should idle, then I can see if it holds oil.

Also, can anyone recommend brake shoes for the rear brakes? Any tricks or "things to know" about sourcing them?

THANKS!

What would be the advantage of an electric choke?

A thermally actuated choke (stove pipe) reacts to the engines own rising temperature

An electric choke reacts to a rising temperature created electrically

Brake Shoes

Kanter

http://www.kanter.com///productdetail.aspx?Tg=2576172&Mak=Buick&Yr=1958&Dv=1&Dpt=1100&Sb=0&Vdr=&Itm=&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Cat=802&Prc=522

C.A.R.S. old Buick parts

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/up-to-1960-buick-group-brakes-brake-overhaul-kit-1958-buick-p-18626.html

What would be the advantage of an electric choke?

A thermally actuated choke (stove pipe) reacts to the engines own rising temperature

An electric choke reacts to a rising temperature created electrically

Mostly because my car is missing all of the stove pipe plumbing.....

CARS choke stove kit

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/carburetion-c-76_88_502.html?page=3&sort=3a

Here's what I used for my choke stove ($13.99)

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-Choke-Stove-and-Heater-Tube-Repair-Kit/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=426073

I attached the supplied choke stove to the manifold. It's been working fine for 12 years.

The original piping would attached to a hole through the manifold. (a hole to outside air not exhaust gas)

I re-seated the oil filter housing and so far so good. The car has not idled for more than a few sputters at a time, so to really test the oil filter housing I need to get it idling better.

I am still going to keep my eye open for a spin-on conversion. Another reason I prefer the spin on is that the head of the long hex bolt on the current filter is completely rounded off, channel locks are the only way to get it off.

Which brings me to my next point.

The car will not run unless gas is manually poured down the carb. I have healthy fuel delivery to the carb, so that leaves the carburetor as the culprit.

I removed the carb and have discovered that it is a Carter AFB 2982S.

I am now in the process of rebuilding and refreshing this thing. Can anyone recommend a rebuild kit source for the Carter AFB?

I would also like to convert from a the stove-pipe choke to an electric choke. Anyone done that before?

Any general tips and advice regarding the carb is also appreciated.

With carb fixed, the engine should idle, then I can see if it holds oil.

Also, can anyone recommend brake shoes for the rear brakes? Any tricks or "things to know" about sourcing them?

THANKS!

The best and most specific carb kit HERE: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/History.htm

If going with electric chock consider the Edelbrock clone of your AFB.

Alway take you old shoes to a local clutch/brake rebuilder and specify linings that most easily stop the car. Most supplied commercial linings are too hard and will not stop the car, prompting many to convert to disc brakes.

Willie

Thanks guys! got the carb rebuilt. Used a rebuild kit from Walker, part number 15299B. It had all the correct parts for the Buick Carter AFB 2982S.

Cleaned out the complete carb, used pipe cleaner in all the small holes, blew air through all the passages. Things went great. Got the choke working nice and smoothly. Confident it will work well.

Next week (when I am back in town) I will get it back on the car and see what happens.

Can someone post a picture of how the Stove Choke attaches to the exhaust manifold? My car is completely missing all those parts and so I have no idea where it goes....just know somewhere on the passenger side manifold....? Thanks

Nice Work !!!

I can't post photos from my phone ....

I'll post some tonight (If someone else doesn't before)

Here's how I attached my generic kit;

Here's a video that shows an original type

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/w8o5kjDuu5Y?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

The attached photos are those taken from my '57 Super Model 56R. It is an all original unmolested engine. The choke stove tube is routed correctly for the original as well as the aftermarket one. On my restorations, I bought a steel tube at the auto parts and bent it to the configuration shown. I found a 5/16 inch inside diameter ceramic weave to use in place of the asbestos original. But the aftermarket will serve just as well. Should you require further photography, please let me know. - Dan

Wow. great pictures. thanks everyone. Now that I have a better idea, I will investigate more.

UPDATE: IT RUNS!!!!

After getting the refreshed carb installed, I finally got to start it for the first time.

She fired right up and idles great! A little shaky, but not too bad, sounds good.

The oil-waterfall coming from the oil filter housing is no longer there, so I believe I originally just had the filter housing installed unevenly.

Only let it idle for maybe 1 minute. Next on the list is to use some dryer ducting to route the exhaust smoke out of my garage.

Now I get to check electrical system, power steering, drivetrain, etc.... PROGRESS!

hooray !!!

I think I can see that big smile on your face from here. Congrats!!!

Wooo Hoooo Way to rock 57 Buick man. Dandy Dave!

Just got the rear drum brakes rebuilt. Had the shoes relined by a local brake specialist. Next is to run all new brake lines from head to tail. Despite having two kids under the age of 5 and two jobs, I am making progress....although much slower than I would like!

Slow, but steady, progress is good. Doing it right for the sake of your cargo ( 2 kids) is even more important. So many people start in the old car hobby by doing engine work first. To me the two most important features in a car are the ability to stop and steer. This looks like top quality work on an important component. Too bad you have to put the brake drums on an no one will see that part of your restoration.

UPDATE::: Wheels got stripped of their ancient and cracking and terrible bias ply tires, they are getting blasted now and will get a fresh coat of paint then some new tires.

With the rear drum brakes back together, it was time to start on the front. Front will be getting a disc conversion using brackets from ScareBird. I took off the front drum brake and couldn't stop there. Next thing I knew, I had the whole front upright out as well as the spring and shock.

I notice Kanter has some expensive ball joints, the ones on this car seem pretty darn shot...may have to bite the bullet....

I did find a Buick air spring kit for this car on the old internet....I think air springs could be a viable path.....hmmm...

Does anyone know if the old front drums and backing plates are worth anything? Or should I just scrap them?

UPDATE::: Does anyone know if the old front drums and backing plates are worth anything? Or should I just scrap them?

Hi Compression. I am so glad that you are enjoying getting the 57 sorted. But do you really need front discs? I would ask myself, am I really going to drive this 60 year old car, with 60 year old roadholding, so hard that I encounter brake fade?

I owned a 1960 Electra fro 15 years and the brakes, once rebuilt, were excellent. They used to stop the rollers on the annual inspection!

In my very humble opinion, it would be quicker, cheaper, easier and less contentious to restore the original set up. Just my opinion and it is your car.....no offence intended.

Adam..

Backing plates have probably little value; drums = yes if not worn out of spec. The drums are the same as the rear if the rivets are removed, so could be saved for that. The bearings if still good are better than available replacements. Others can comment on the 57 ball joints which were 'loose' when new...looks like an original shock.

Hi Compression. I am so glad that you are enjoying getting the 57 sorted. But do you really need front discs? I would ask myself, am I really going to drive this 60 year old car, with 60 year old roadholding, so hard that I encounter brake fade?

I owned a 1960 Electra fro 15 years and the brakes, once rebuilt, were excellent. They used to stop the rollers on the annual inspection!

In my very humble opinion, it would be quicker, cheaper, easier and less contentious to restore the original set up. Just my opinion and it is your car.....no offence intended.

Adam..

Thanks for the input. The front disc conversion is not very expensive. After re-lining brake shoes, new wheel cylinders, and possibly new drums (if out of spec...which they probaly are just looking at them), it may in fact save money to do the conversion. Calipers are $33/ea, brackets are $145, rotors/hubs are $45/ea, the rest is small parts like bearings that are under $5 ea. Allcommonly available at any corner auto parts store. Taking the cheapest route is not always what I want to do anyway, especially in brakes. I would rather overkill...and since she is not a concourse judged car (and I never plan to go that direction) why not.

I should also mention that the master cylinder is seized solid and I am in the process of removing it. I see this as an opportunity to convert to a dual circuit master cylinder which is necessary for the disc conversion. Will keep you updated and I will also record my costs for the conversion.

I guess I will save the drums, or if someone wants them, just contact me!

Hi Compression.

I take your point. It will be an interesting project in any case. Please do keep us updated with your progress and lots of photos please (!).

Like you, I am not much into showing, preferring to drive the car and take part in events that involve driving/competing like long distance rallies, racing trials etc. I will be watching your progress and the mods with interest. I am interested to see what you do about wheels & tyres, for instance.

Adam..

Research revealed some info about 1957 ball joints (which I understand are a 1-year only unique design...great...ugh...). I am sure you guys know all this stuff like second nature, but I am still learning....

- Upper ball joints hold less load and are less likely to wear out, or they wear out slower than the lowers.

-The lower joints do the heavy lifting and are in tension supporting the weight of the front of the car.

-Lower joints are allowed up to 0.060" of lash (Man....that is A LOT!!)

For the right side corner, my upper ball joint did not have any lash, so I will leave it alone. My lower joint had 0.040" vertical lash, so I guess that is within spec. Measured on my workbench with a dial indicator.

I am in the process of chiseling 57 years of hardened grease and dirt off of them now, then back in they go.

Should I attempt to fully clean these joints inside and out? Looks like I can access the internal spherical members, especially since there is no dust boot, just some plastic discs.

The left side will have to wait, because I can not easily access that side of the car until I sell the other car in my garage and free up some space.

I have also removed the brake master cylinder from the car. I do not plan to reuse it. It is seized solid. Is it worth anything? or into the scrap bin?

Did you remove the entire power booster and master cylinder? You could probably get at least $50 on eBay for it.

Making progress on the brakes. Fabricated all new hard lines for the rear of the car. Here is the new hose I bought to replace the mid-chassis rear brake hose.

Also mocking up the Scarebird disc brake adapters on the front end. All new nuts and bolts in the front end suspension as well (grade 8, fine thread).

Coming along, next up is to order the new master cylinder and fabricate the hard lines for the front brakes.

Lookin' good

UPDATE: Been working slowly and steadily on front suspension. Cut about 25% out of the factory springs to get ride height down (green is cut mark):

Got front corners assembled, everything except the calipers.

Calipers will be here soon. Need to build the front brake hard lines, and bunch of other stuff, but should be road worthy in a couple months.

Really interesting work. Please keep posting!!

Adam..

Yup. Keep em coming. :cool: Dandy Dave!

Long time without posting. But that doesn't mean I haven't been working the car! (well, OK I was distracted by summertime outdoor activities....).

Since my last post, I have completed the rebuild of the front suspension, front disc brake conversion is completed, all new brake lines(hard lines and flex lines) are installed.

Radiator was removed and assessed as being too crappy to rebuild. So I purchased an aftermarket aluminum radiator. I fabricated some mounting brackets that tie into the original holes on the core support (no drilling to body) can see one of the brackets below. I also had to weld on a bung for a heater hose return fitting, as shown in the picture:

I am converting to a relay-driven 14" electric puller fan to replace the engine driven fan.

Will the stock generator be able to supply the power for an electric fan? we will find out. I can always easily convert back to the engine driven fan if needed...or convert to an alternator....

The stock radiator has been put into storage in case it is needed for a future restoration effort.

Installed a new thermostat (there was no 'stat in there at all....) and all new gaskets. I had the water pump rebuilt and will be installing this week.

Stock wheels were sand blasted and sprayed black, some Kumho tires were sourced for a very good price to get the car rolling. Will use the stock hubcaps, because its all I can afford at this time.

Next up:

Rear suspension rebuild

Install/retrofit of aftermarket brake master/booster/prop.valve

Get the parking brake cables to work (I think the system is seized up somewhere)

Install some seat belts with welded-in anchor plates

Fabricate a completely new manifold-back exhaust system

Will get some more pics posted.

QUESTION:

When I install the water pump, can I use RTV silicone instead of the hard-to-located water pump gasket?

For the water pump gasket, try

Flying Dutchman water pumps

and

Rock Auto

The generator on mine is is a 30 amp ... I think '57 is too. It might not be enough

Regarding the water pump gasket. Obviously it would be better to use a gasket and I am surprised that they are not available. Perhaps only as part of as gasket set?? You could always cut one out yourself from some gasket paper. In the absence of all that, I think RTV silicone would work okay, but my first reaction would be to make a gasket.

I assume the electric fan is thermostatic? Therefore, it will not be running all the time, and certainly not at highway speeds. I should think the existing dynamo (and battery) should cope with the sporadic load. Just make sure you get a battery of the highest capacity you can fit in, would be my advice. As you say, you could fit an alternator later, but I suspect it is not necessary, unless you are thinking of adding many other high current consumers. Just consider the maximum current draw you are likely to achieve and whether the dynamo (30 amps??) can keep up with that. Removal of the mechanical fan will certainly make it quieter and save some fuel too (or unleash more power, depending how you look at it).

It is good to hear that you are still making good progress. Keep up the good work!!

Adam..

For the water pump gasket, try

Flying Dutchman water pumps

and

Rock Auto

The generator on mine is is a 30 amp ... I think '57 is too. It might not be enough

Flying Dutchman to the rescue. Thanks for the lead.

Here is a picture of the fully assembled front right disc brake. This is the Scarebird kit. They just sell the brackets then you source the other stuff from your favorite parts store.

Compression,

Put ScareBird in the search box and your thread came up. Seriously considering the disc brake set up for my 53 Special. How has it worked out?

Pat

Flying Dutchman to the rescue. Thanks for the lead.

glad to help.

I got a water pump from him and two gaskets..

Compression,

Put ScareBird in the search box and your thread came up. Seriously considering the disc brake set up for my 53 Special. How has it worked out?

Pat

So far so good. Everything bolted up exactly as it should. Don't have the car driving yet but I don't anticipate any issues.