buick info

Hi,

I am working on a 1950 buick super straight eight and am after detailed photos or drawings of the position of door rubbers on a 2 door hardtop.

Unfortunatly rubbers were not there.

regards ryan

You may find something here http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/

You may find something here http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/

many thanks

Ryan,

The most important part is to install the Front door to hinge pillar draft seal ( Bobs Automobilia part HPS 503 ) before the final fit of front fenders as you can't fit them after. If you cant work out were the door seals fit ( seal also available from Bobs by the foot ) I'll photograph mine for you.

How long before you will have it finished, and is it stock or modified?

Ryan,

The most important part is to install the Front door to hinge pillar draft seal ( Bobs Automobilia part HPS 503 ) before the final fit of front fenders as you can't fit them after. If you cant work out were the door seals fit ( seal also available from Bobs by the foot ) I'll photograph mine for you.

How long before you will have it finished, and is it stock or modified?

Hi, thanks!

no the car has been chopped (not my choice) and will be rodded..

I am just fixing it up after the chop, fitting everything I did not strip ..and therefore have no idea what fits were..

Love to have pics of door / pillar seals..and the right nr for ordering the parts.

Ryan,

This might help

http://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1950&make=buick&model=super&style=2-door-sedanet

Ryan,

This might help

http://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1950&make=buick&model=super&style=2-door-sedanet

Many thanks,

questions:

is the boot / trunk 2 types of rubber meeting eachother? and were is it glued to? the trunk or the frame?

the other is..am after a top grille bow..with buick eight on it..

This is what you need for the boot

http://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1950&make=buick&model=super&style=2-door-sedanet#trunk-weatherstrip-kit-70-1039-84

Consists of 2 different profiles and 2 corners.

Corners and one profile attach to body ( not boot lid ) one profile across top to corners and are all glued together. The other profile attaches all round the boot lid.

Top grill bar? very hard to find a good one and expensive. You wont find one in this country so will have to source something in the US.

Not sure if that rubber on the boot lid does go all the way round, may only be side and across bottom - will have a look and let you know for sure.

Some photos of the boot ( trunk ) area - may be good enough to give you the general idea

Many thanks,

questions:

is the boot / trunk 2 types of rubber meeting eachother? and were is it glued to? the trunk or the frame?

the other is..am after a top grille bow..with buick eight on it..

I might have one. I have recently relocated, and will need to lay hands on it.

Ben

I might have one. I have recently relocated, and will need to lay hands on it.

Ben

Hi Ben,

you mean the top grille? regards ryan

Some photos of the boot ( trunk ) area - may be good enough to give you the general idea

Many thanks for this info!

You been a great help, GB

Ryan

I don't know it all either. I got Steele to print me a list for the 53 76R. I have a 52 and a 53 shop manual. I wonder if the "Chassis and Body" parts book sold by Bob has useful pictures in it ( like an exploded view of a door with tracks and seals"?

Pat

Will look a bit further this week, i am in the final stage but want to fit rubberd before paint., thanks all

Hi Ben,

you mean the top grille? regards ryan

Yes. May be able to post a pic later this week.

Ben

Will be looking forward to others' posts as well. I'm doing door seals on my '50 Tourback Sedan and having same issue of "how the hell do these go back on"?! Steele Rubber's items are great quality but do not come with instructions. Shop Manuals do not give a great representation of the weatherstripping. The Parts Manual line drawings gives you a vague idea of where they get located, but again no scale drawings. The Fisher Body Manuals aren't all that much help either. What you need is basically photos of someone else's car with the weatherstrips in place and taken at key places; at hinges, any place where a retainer/clip is used, at corners, etc. Luckily mine has a bit of roughness where the original sealer was in place before removal for paint, but even then as the strips are 3 dimensional it's taking some guess work.

I've searched online thru Google Images for hours without much luck. Most pics are taken from too far back/away to get a great concept. My thought on the front doors was to unbolt the hinges from the door pillar and work on door separated from car, but have been counseled not to do this as lining them up afterwards is a total PITA and would be a few many job.

I agree with one of the earlier posts on needing to remove front quarters to put the "bellows" seals back in place. There's no physical way those will go back on without the front quarters being off.

Other thoughts from folks who have successfully undertaken this job themselves?

Yes. May be able to post a pic later this week.

Ben

Can you send to my email address?

Regards ryan

Yes the bellows look impossible without removing fenders. Steel's master kit is $400 bucks so I'm trying to figure out how much of it I can really use.I'm trying to reassemble a 1980s disassembly to fair weather driver use and need my ducats for hydraulic window parts.

Pat

Ryan,

This might help

http://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1950&make=buick&model=super&style=2-door-sedanet

there is a set here: http://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1950&make=buick&model=super&style=2-door-hardtop#door-weatherstrip-90-0116-72

its listed under sedan hardtop not sedannet..still the same?

and will this do both doors?

regards ryan