Rear Bearing Cap Drain Pipe

What functions does the "S" pipe screwed into the rear bearing cap provide? Drain for oil that gets past the oil slinger? I've converted the rear to use the Ford seals and ground the crank oil slinger. The pipe is in the way of the Melling M15 oil pickup. I'm thinking of just leaving the pipe off, and letting it drip. Do you think this will work?

Thanks

Abe

Abe, leave it in, just twist it a little to one side. These tubes have a ball check in them which prevent a back flow of oil from the oil pan if the car was on a steep hill...something you probably don't have to worry about with the new rear seal but I still use it.

Dee:

Thanks again!, I'll bend the pipe.

Abe

I see the engine stand bolted to the rear of the block.I hope that V12 is supported on the front end also. If it is not I wouldnt get my feet in the way of it. Ive seen V8s with the bell housing broken off from using this kind of engine stand bolted to the rear and a V12 has even more weight hanging out there.

Flatcat: Yeah, I looked at it a long time, lotta weight for 5/16 bolts. At least I bought class 8. Wasn't heavy until I put the crank in. Harbor Freight engine stand doesn't seem to be complaining, but I'll get it off the stand and onto some blocks of wood soon as the pan is ready. Front cover, heads, manifolds, water pumps, and accessories are still off.

Concerning the rear main drain, after bolting up the pickup tube to the oil pump. I'm now thinking a plug in the bearing cap hole with a small hole drilled in the plug might work better. Engine is getting tough to turn by hand with all the rod nuts installed and torqued and valves adjusted.

Abe

Flatcat: Yeah, I looked at it a long time, lotta weight for 5/16 bolts. At least I bought class 8. Wasn't heavy until I put the crank in. Harbor Freight engine stand doesn't seem to be complaining, but I'll get it off the stand and onto some blocks of wood soon as the pan is ready. Front cover, heads, manifolds, water pumps, and accessories are still off.

Concerning the rear main drain, after bolting up the pickup tube to the oil pump. I'm now thinking a plug in the bearing cap hole with a small hole drilled in the plug might work better. Engine is getting tough to turn by hand with all the rod nuts installed and torqued and valves adjusted.

Abe

Abe, it would be better to just leave drain hole open (no plug) if you choose not to use the "S" pipe. You don't want to have any pressure build up in the drain cavity. On a fresh engine ( new rings), it's normal to get progressive harder to turn over by hand after the first 6 piston/rods are installed.

Abe, be sure to check the clearance between the pickup screen and the bottom of the oil pan. I have found that the after market oil pump pickup screens may interfere with the bottom of the pan and might cause restrictive oil flow into the pump. The pickup pipe is easy to bend when the pump is bolted in.

Thanks Dee, I'll check the clearance with some puddy. Measuring from the pan rail, looks like it will be close. But, I just figured out that it will be easier to install the flywheel with the oil pan off, so I'll get the flywheel surfaced first.

Abe

Thanks Dee, I'll check the clearance with some puddy. Measuring from the pan rail, looks like it will be close. But, I just figured out that it will be easier to install the flywheel with the oil pan off, so I'll get the flywheel surfaced first.

Abe

Not only is it easier but the flywheel must be installed before the oil pan. It will not go on there with the pan on.