Need help for my "23"

Hi All,

Looks like I won't be bring Aussie built 23 to the meet this year. He's why, a few weeks I tried to start it up after sitting thru the winter.

She started ok but I couldn't get it to run smooth. It would backfire when there was a load on the engine. So I cleaned the carb. In the past that worked. Not this time. So I looked for electrical problem. Cleaned the plugs. Looked at the points. Ok but reset them. I noticed my coil was warm. It's on the firewall away from the engine so it shouldn't haven't got that warm so soon. There's the problem, bad coil. Went down to my local NAPA dealer and got a new one (12V internal resister) just like the old one. Put it in. Same problem. While sitting in the driver's seat pulling the remaining hair I have I notice that the dash light was on, even with the key off. My tail light was also on. I got a serious short somewhere. I tried to look under the dash, but I couldn't get under it. Not as flexible in my old age so I used a mirror. There's a lot of wires under there. I pulled out the Clum switch. What a rats' nest of wires. There were wires attached to the switch that went nowhere. Also there's a insulated coil of wire that is suppose to be connected to two terminals but was disconnected at one end. Don't know what it's for.

I think I'm looking at a complete rewire at this point. Don't know when or who did it but some wires are wrapped with metal. One more thing the book I got says it should be positive ground. Mine is negative ground. The amp gauge charged when it was suppose to. That also has a mess of wires attached. Does that gauge come out from the front?

I'm looking for any suggestions on how to go about it.

It's a good thing I could fall back on my old reliable 31 coupe.

Thanks, Joe C.

Hi Joe, I'm not sure how close the electrics would be on an Aussie built car vs. U.S. built but little different I suspect. The metal wrapped wires are original (the one going back to tail light on side of frame for sure). If it has original wiring it would probably be a good idea to replace the loom. I bought mine from Rhode Island Wiring and was very happy with it.

The small coil of wire on the Clum is basically a resistor to reduce output voltage to lights when Clum is set on 'Dim' position. I run my '25 positive ground but from what I've read here & there it should still operate fine using negative ground. I believe the wires to ammeter should be switched for it to read correctly - it sounds like that must have been done on yours already. The gauges do come out the front (on my '25). There is a bridge bracket on the back side and 2 small nuts must be removed to allow the gauge to come out (I think the wire connection nuts must be removed first). The Clum on my car does allow the lights to be turned on without the key. I believe the key only operates the ignition primary circuit.

One way to rule out a wiring harness problem is to disconnect the primary lead to distributor, then connect a temporary jumper wire direct to the positive battery terminal (if negative ground). This will bypass the primary circuit, ignition switch, etc. If it runs fine with temporary jumper then the problem is either in the wiring or possibly ignition switch.

Agree with Mike, it sounds to me to be a short IN the Clum switch or wiring thereof. If you remove the Clum switch, you may see fine imprinted lettering for each screw terminal and where they go. Mike's right about the insulated coil back there too. (headlights). If your coil is heating up, that is a pretty sure sign that your primary ign. is NOT opening, allowing the coil to heat when the points are closed and not running. You can always check this out by slipping a piece of business card between the ign. points and use a volt/Ohm meter to verify. Coil should not heat up when not running. Your amp gauge should be showing a discharge if this is the problem but I'm not sure about all your wiring, I would definitely unhook your battery at night or when you leave the car. This short could start a fire. I'm sure you know this.---Pete.

PS, I would also check or change out your dist. condenser. it may be shorted.

If there is current flowing to the coil with the points open the condenser is probly shorted.

Hi Guys'

Thanks for all the input. I had to walk away from the car for a while. I'm sure you know why. I decided to replace all the wiring on the car since some of the wiring is probably as old as the car. I'm upset that I won't be able to bring it to this years meet.

Rhode Island Wiring has a harness to fit the car so I'll start with that. I won't start until I come back from the meet. I'll be spending my time getting my 31 in shape for the meet and working around the guys putting a new driveway for me.

I'll be back later as I'm sure to have some questions about polarity since my ground is not as my book shows it should be.