early semi electric overdrives

So, I've got a '39 Royal Windsor with OD that works great. I've also got a '39 New Yorker with OD that doesn't work great. They are the same part # for the OD's for both cars, but with a bit bigger tranny in the NY. The NY is running after 35 years of waiting. Just put a new third member in it as it was bad. The engine is rebuilt and runs great. Tranny seems fine. The OD is the problem. I've been meticulous about adjusting all of the linkage to the tranny as well as the OD cable. The OD will not go into the sun and planetary fourth gear, but whether the cable is in or out the car free wheels when decelerating. Also the car will not back up when the cable is out and the OD is supposedly disabled. It will, however, go into reverse and back up when the cable is in the OD position or in other words pushed all the way in. When all the way in the car still freewheels when decelerating in all gears but will not shift into fourth when at speed and letting off of the throttle. The solenoid is ok and I pulled it out and checked that the pawl is still working on it's spring. Of course that shouldn't really have anything to do with whether the OD works as in the semi electric type the solenoid is only for the kickdown. I'm thinking of draining the gear lube out (it's new) and refilling it with atf for a spell to see if it will clean everything up a bit and the parts might start doing their job. Any bright ideas guys?

Try contacting Lloyd Young in Canal-Winchester (Columbus suburb), Ohio

614-837-7832

He is an expert in overdrives.

OK, the knob out should lock freewheeling OUT, so it should only freewheel when knob is in. The knob and cable pushes a rod rearward and prevents the freewheeling from engaging. Reversing can only occur when you are not freewheeling.

Mine was playing up a bit like this and it was because the bolt holding the freewheeling system together in the o/d was loose and falling out. You might yet have to open it up.

Simple test. Disconnect the cable from trans and set actuating lever at "OFF" (knob out) end of travel. Test by reversing. Box may be OK if it works. Set lever at other end of travel ("ON" or freewheel+o/d engaged). Test by reversing. If can still reverse, you need to open up the transmission. I would have some words to say about that; these transmissions are heavy! If it works correctly, perhaps cable adjustment will fix the problem?

If car has many miles, you will probably find the planetary gear bearings worn, maybe the planetary gear carrier worn, and maybe the freewheeling unit not held on tightly.

If you change the transmission fluid and it has a metallic sheen to it, you have metal in the oil. You could confirm with a test on the oil. If there is metal in the oil, you should look for the source of it, i.e. overhaul the transmission. Remember you have bronze baulking rings in the gearbox (for synchromesh) and you should use an oil with no or only very mild EP additives.

Another thought: is the cable routed correctly? Could it be pushing when it should be pulling on the lever?

Thanks for the info. I did move the actuating lever by hand and it made no difference. The cable is hooked up right. If I have it in overdrive, stop and pull the lever out it will not freewheel and will work correctly, but only for a short bit. One hundred meters or so, then will drop out and freewheel. I did drain the gear oil and put ATF in there for a bit, and it didn't change a thing. Didn't run it long that way but it did warm up so I think you are right and I will pull it and open it up.

I think you sent me pics years ago for the fender skirts for the cars? I did find a set of skirts. So thank you for both comebacks. Drake

I called Lloyd Young and we thought the atf just might free something up. Ran it about 20 miles to warm up the gear and no change. Put 90 back in for now and will pull the OD and check it out. Thanks for both the replies.