New problems with my park ave

So last Wednesday my wife took my pa to town 40 miles it quit on her. I ran the codes and it was throwing a tps code so I replaced it still wouldn't run right still throwing a tps code replaced it again light went off till it warmed up then it would come on so I scanned it again this time it was a cam sensor code 41. The car ran fine other than the light coming on. So I got another new cam sensor and changed it again this is the second one. I took it for a drive didn't even make it 1/4 of a mile before it died. And is acting like a tps again and throwing a tps code and a cam sensor code again. I always disconnect the battery completely when changing these sensors I replaced the whole harness going to the cam sensor as well as put a new plug on the tps because the clip on the plug was broke. Check wiring in the loom to it and saw no problems. Thoughts please I'm stuck

Cam sensor code is almost always caused by a faulty interrupter magnet, not the sensor.

Here's some info on what to look for and do:

http://forums.aaca.org/f116/code-e041-cam-sensor-circuit-3800-a-367662.html

Sounds like a connection problem with the tps. Did you adjust the idle signal voltage after you installed?

Does it die when idling or when driving down the road? Could also be the ICM, CPS, or MAF causing it to stall which don't set a code in OBD I

Well I know the CPS and icm are both new the car ran fine yesterday other than setting the e041 code I think I found the magnet and it had a bunch of junk on it

Connector to the tps is new I changed cuz the clip was broke . How do I set the idle voltage?

Sounds like a bad fuel filter or a bad crankshaft sensor. Neither one will set a code.

Connector to the tps is new I changed cuz the clip was broke . How do I set the idle voltage?

Hmm. Do you have the FSM for your PA? In a Reatta we can call up the tps voltage in diagnostics and set it by rotating the whole tps body clockwise or counter clockwise to get it between 0.33 volts and 0.46 volt reading between the middle tps wire and ground. This is done with key on, engine off, throttle at rest. On a Reatta, the middle wire is dark blue, and the black wire is ground.

Do you remember if the tps code set was E021 or E022?

I'm with Harry, have you checked the fuel pump pressure.

Woody

89 MAUI

I have and it's good I haven't however replaced the filter the car symptoms are as follows I'll be driving it and it'll lurch and die to start it again I have to burry my foot in the throttle. When it does this the cel usually flashes. When I pull my codes I get a 41, and a 21/22 which is tps. Thoughts I wouldn't be so concerned with this car except after driving it the few time I have I am in love with the boat

Had a Fiero that would do that, every time I hit the brake it would die, put my OTC 2000 on it and recorded a drive. Could see the TPS drop to zero when it happened. Turned out to be a bad wire in the harness.

BTW you adjust the TPS by loosening and moving up or down until the idle setting (engine does not need to be running, just on) is .38-.42V. Tighten, make sure it is over 4.0v at WOT and job done.

thanks i got some things to check out. i'll come back with diagnosis or other problems

So can the cam magnet replaced the cAm sensor hole

Here's how to replace magnet:

http://padgett.performanceresearch.us/cars/cammag.htm

ok so she's running again. I replaced sensors again set the crank position to .020 on the interuper rings, set the voltage on the tps. changed the fuel filter ect. don't know if any of this was my problem or if it was just outta gas, cuz it didn't start till i put 2.5 gallons in the tank. Anyway. It starts and runs again but has a terrible miss, and is throwing a e041 code both current and in the memory still. While i had it apart I took some brake clean, and a soft nylon brush to the cam interupter never could see any magnets on it. Could a completely faulty magnet cause my miss? I am willing to pull the cover and replace it the proper way if this will get me going parts are cheap since i work at oreilly's.

A code 41 shouldn't cause a miss.

Replacing the magnet by removing the front cover is a PITA; do it like the rest of us, glued in thru the sensor hole.

Missing cam sensor magnet might cause rougher than ideal running condition as matching of injector pulse to spark delivery is not synced. But it wouldn't be considered a terrible miss.

I'd recheck the spark plug wires are routed properly since you've replaced the ICM in your efforts. It's easy to get them crossed.

yeah i checked the plug wires but will recheck them. anyone know how to test the coil pack this one is the Magnavox 1 piece style. Also will I have running issues if i don't replace the cam magnet and just drive it? will it die out ect? or just have a cel.

So I threw my timing light on the pa tonight I had really good sustained spark on cyls 246 and very intermittent on cyls 135. Guessing this is my miss would lt be a coil or icm? Crank sensor? Cam sensor?

I would go with the coil/ICM. Cheap to buy/install and most likely your problem.

Niether are real cheap.

Niether are real cheap.

This is when a lot of us do the Padgett upgrade and pick up the Delco ICM, mounting plate, and coils from a yard and swap out. May have to get three to find a good one, but easy enough to swap at the yard to test if you don't have the third nut installed on the bottom of the mount. Should only run about $35 each, so you can get two and have a good spare for a lot less than a new Mag set.

i don't have any yards close by that have any cars. The nearest is 2 hrs away where i used to live. i guess i'll try and get a new coil if that doesn't do it then i'll replace my module. Idk why my car is going thru electronics so quickly. I know my alternator is putting out a lil over 14 volts (14.2-14.3).

If you think your voltage is a bit high simply drive with the headlights on. That can drop your voltage.

Yeah I thought it was a but high too. So is my cam sensor issue going to cause drivablity/Reliablity issues?

No, other than the SES light being on and some occasional rough running, there are no significant problems associated with driving without the cam sensor signal.

i'm not sure that 14.2V is that high - IF - it's at start up. since i replaced my alternator last year, my Reatta usually runs around that until warm up, then usually stays in the mid 13's.

that's with the fog (and parking) lamps on, A/C and radio. battery is less than 2 years old.

So i ohm'd the coil pack across the posts and got 16.9, 17.2, 17.2. The ones I tested at work last night (brand new) ohm'd at 12.5 so is mine bad?

Not a valid test.

What is a valid way to test it then I have put a test light on while running and gotten very sporadic spark on the one side of the coil while the other was sustained. So how do I properly test this thing

Your test only shows the coil secondary's are not open. Won't show shorted turns or internal arcing. The real issue maybe in the triggering electronics below the coils.

I know of no way to test these modules, short of direct substitution.

Maybe some of my fellow list members has a better idea.

triggering electronics? Ie ICM? CAM, CRANK sensors?

Below the coils are the electronic drivers for the coils...ICM.

Crank sensor also controls these drivers, but as a test, swapping out an ICM is a lot easier than a CPS (not to be confused with the CPS under the dash).

well i just changed the cps last weekend doesn't mean it's not bad but i just changed it. icm is also new. I'll have it tested, and swap out the coil see if this doesn't solve my problem

so i looked at the icm today and the gel by the connector is cracked clean thru. The 2 bad ones i have at home have cracked gel too what causes this? Excessive heat? Vibration? it's not even a month old?

update: I replaced my ICM. Which wasn't the problem drove the car it drives fine till you come to a stop then I have a strong miss. Pulls off of a stop ok without any major hesitation. Only code I am getting is a cam sensor code. any thoughts would help thanks

Try the Mass Air Flow sensor. It could be bad or you may be missing the O Ring that seals it. [At least we have them on the "C" 3800 motor].

where is the oring located i did notice that it had more of a sucking sound than usual coming from the air intake

I am not sure what year PA you have, but on our "C" 3800 motors there is an O Ring located on the shaft of the MAF sensor that goes into the "butterfly" housing.

pa is a 91'. It's wierd because before I changed the Cam sensor, Crank Sensor, and TPS again it ran like butter. it would just randomly die when it was running.

The dying problem I think I have figured out the fuel pump is failing when the tank is low i think it's heat related due to the fact that once it sits for a little while it will restart. this happens at around 1/4 tank.

a little update on the park ave I got the idle squared away the crank sensor was ticking so I got to investigating and it was bad swapped it and it runs good again. However it still randomly dies while driving it sometime it will restart immediately other times it will just crank. it is throwing a code 41 indicating a cam sensor problem. I checked the fuel pressure yesterday and while running it is at 36 psi everything I have read says it should be at 42-45 psi verified with the dealer. I know the filter is new, the regulator is new, so that leaves the pump right? could the cam sensor be causing the random die and immediate restart that doesn't seem like a fuel pump to me when it dies and won't restart it does seem to be a pump to me. any advice would be great thanks. I plan on changing the pump today.