1926 Buick Master Engine Valve Spring Specs

I need the test height and lbs. for the valve springs of a 1926 Buick Master. For both inner and outer springs.

A simple test is to line them up and lay a straight edge along the top. If they vary in height or lean over, they are worn out. If they are all straight and identical in height they are good. If you don't have the factory specs as to height and strength this may be the best you can do.

A simple test is to line them up and lay a straight edge along the top. If they vary in height or lean over, they are worn out. If they are all straight and identical in height they are good. If you don't have the factory specs as to height and strength this may be the best you can do.

Thank you for your solution! Good info.

Depending on the rpm range, the cam profile, and the weight of the reciprocating parts in the valve train, [lifter/cam follower, pushrod, rocker arm etc] the valve spring pressures will vary quite a bit..

But with a fairly low rpm mid-'20's engine, an a fairly simple valve train.. I'd be looking for around 50# of spring pressure with the valve seated. This should provide plenty of sealing pressure, and prevent valve 'float' at roughly 3000 rpm.

Again this is a rough rule of thumb.. if you have a few springs that only have 30# pressure when installed, I'd replace them. Look the springs over very well for rust pits. Since a spring will fracture at a rust pit in the wire.

The 'straight-edge' method does work, and will show if there are wild variations in the springs. But I like to use a spring pressure gauge on the installed springs to see what the seating pressure is.. Just a quirk of mine.. There are some reasonably priced valve spring pressure testers for in place or in a workbench vice available on Ebay for around $70-$80.

Hope this helps.

Greg L

Depending on the rpm range, the cam profile, and the weight of the reciprocating parts in the valve train, [lifter/cam follower, pushrod, rocker arm etc] the valve spring pressures will vary quite a bit..

But with a fairly low rpm mid-'20's engine, an a fairly simple valve train.. I'd be looking for around 50# of spring pressure with the valve seated. This should provide plenty of sealing pressure, and prevent valve 'float' at roughly 3000 rpm.

Again this is a rough rule of thumb.. if you have a few springs that only have 30# pressure when installed, I'd replace them. Look the springs over very well for rust pits. Since a spring will fracture at a rust pit in the wire.

The 'straight-edge' method does work, and will show if there are wild variations in the springs. But I like to use a spring pressure gauge on the installed springs to see what the seating pressure is.. Just a quirk of mine.. There are some reasonably priced valve spring pressure testers for in place or in a workbench vice available on Ebay for around $70-$80.

Hope this helps.

Greg L

Thank you for your good info.! It is a big help.

To check 1 against another,,,,put 2 end to end in vice ,,, compress some,,,

distance should be the same,,Cheers,,,Ben