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Hello! I am new to this forum and thought I would drop a line. My father and I have a 1933 Model 56 St. Regis Brougham. After a couple of abortive attempts to restore we are finally grabbing the bull by the horns and are launching in to a full body off resto. I (as well as my father) will be joining the AACA and the Antique Studebaker Club. I have a slew of questions that I am hoping I can get answered. Are there any other resources I should consider other than the two mentioned? Does anyone know who makes the lever shocks for this vehicle and where I can find a rebuild kit or a rebuild service? There is not much left of the floor. Has anybody found a resource for the wood pieces. I am thinking in terms of patterns for the wood but am open to anything. I am sure that a lot of the fasteners will not be reusable. Is there a good vendor on accurate (NOS) fasteners? Anybody out there have the same model of Stude? I can't even get my head around how many questions I will have on this build. I am going to say thank you in advance! lol,

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Apple Hydraulics can do your shocks: http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm.

The Model 56 was the six cylinder model and it was identical to the Commander Eight except for the drive train. You might want to get a copy of the Nov/Dec 2005 issue of The Antique Studebaker Review. I devoted the entire issue to the '33 models (see image #2 below). Incidentally the car shown on the cover is a '33 Speedway President 5-passenger sedan. The guy behind the wheel is Don Kelstrom of Snohomish WA who also has a restored '33 model 56 roadster. He is quite knowledgeable about those cars. He is old and grouchy but if you catch him on a good day he can be helpful.

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post-30776-143142433367_thumb.jpg

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Thank you very much for the quick response! I will call Apple today. I am also going to apologize ahead of time for what I am sure will be silly questions. While I am no stranger to car restoration, I am quite new to Studes and there is not the wealth of info on the internet compared to the 60-70's car I am used to working on. Thanks, Scott

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I do have an extra copy of the Review mentioned above. It is principally about the big Speedway President but has a fairly complete illustrated section on the literature that was available for the 1933 line. If interested $9.00 with free postage.

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"old and grouchy but if you catch him on a good day he can be helpful"

In other words a typical Studebaker owner :)

Maybe we need to add OAG to CASO in the Stude lexicon.

Welcome Scott! Your car sounds like a great project. We would love to see pictures. You probably will want to join the Studebaker Driver's Club as well. Even though they are not focused on the pre-war cars like the ASC is they are still a great resource and a far more active forum than this one.

Where are you located? Might be an expert right next door.

Nathan

Edited by nvonada (see edit history)
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Guest Mark Vail
"old and grouchy but if you catch him on a good day he can be helpful"

In other words a typical Studebaker owner :)

Maybe we need to add OAG to CASO in the Stude lexicon.

Welcome Scott! Your car sounds like a great project. We would love to see pictures. You probably will want to join the Studebaker Driver's Club as well. Even though they are not focused on the pre-war cars like the ASC is they are still a great resource and a far more active forum than this one.

Where are you located? Might be an expert right next door.

Nathan

Ditto all the way around. Welcome! Would love to see some photos. Do you intend to restore to original factory specs? I'm assuming as much based on your questions and comments.

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One thing you should know is that the engine in the Model 56 is unique.

It uses a timing gear instead of a timing chain.

This engine was also used in some1933 White trucks.

I have a timing gear and a intake/exhaust manifold for this engine.

It was the first engine in these series using a downdraft carburetor.

Robert Kapteyn

studebaker@mac.com

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Thanks to all! Studeq, I would love a copy of the Review! Do you take paypal? or some other method? I will be restoring it as close to stock as possible. The engine has been rebuilt so that is behind me. I have a new clutch, flywheel, bell housing, etc. I have found someone local ( I am in Panama City Beach, FL) to recore the radiator. All of the chrome will be going to Librandi's in Middletown, PA. I lived there for 15 years and I am impressed with their work. The frame, leaf springs. steering gear has all been blasted and painted. I don't know if the steering box has been rebuilt, or even what all is involved with that, but if I need to go through it I will. My father took the car to a local "expert" who completely disassembled the car, did a modicum of work and then pushed it to the back of his shop where it has remained for the last 18 months. Sadly, I don't think we will be getting any money back either. I will take possession of the car tomorrow and move it to my small shop where if WILL be finished. Unfortunately, I was not the one that pulled the car apart so putting it back together will be like a jigsaw puzzle. I am more mechanically inclined so I am not scared of getting the car running but the body work scares me. Around the bottom edge there is a fair amount of tin worm damage. Hopefully, I can find someone who can help with that. I am also keeping my fingers crossed that there is enough of the wood remaining to make templates. I will try to post some pictures early next week. I am only able to find 3 paint schemes: two-tone blue, two-tone green, and black. Does anyone know of any other factory schemes or codes? Thanks again! Scott

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Scott,

Sounds like you are going to take the long route to the right direction. Would love to see pictures through this progress. Very hard to find anything more elegant than a St. Regis!

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Thanks to all! Studeq, I would love a copy of the Review! Do you take paypal? or some other method? I will be restoring it as close to stock as possible. The engine has been rebuilt so that is behind me. I have a new clutch, flywheel, bell housing, etc. I have found someone local ( I am in Panama City Beach, FL) to recore the radiator. All of the chrome will be going to Librandi's in Middletown, PA. I lived there for 15 years and I am impressed with their work. The frame, leaf springs. steering gear has all been blasted and painted. I don't know if the steering box has been rebuilt, or even what all is involved with that, but if I need to go through it I will. My father took the car to a local "expert" who completely disassembled the car, did a modicum of work and then pushed it to the back of his shop where it has remained for the last 18 months. Sadly, I don't think we will be getting any money back either. I will take possession of the car tomorrow and move it to my small shop where if WILL be finished. Unfortunately, I was not the one that pulled the car apart so putting it back together will be like a jigsaw puzzle. I am more mechanically inclined so I am not scared of getting the car running but the body work scares me. Around the bottom edge there is a fair amount of tin worm damage. Hopefully, I can find someone who can help with that. I am also keeping my fingers crossed that there is enough of the wood remaining to make templates. I will try to post some pictures early next week. I am only able to find 3 paint schemes: two-tone blue, two-tone green, and black. Does anyone know of any other factory schemes or codes? Thanks again! Scott

Yes, I accept PayPal. Send me a personal message with your email address and I will send you an invoice.

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Oh, Robert, thanks for the info on the engine. I assumed it was the same as the previous years flat-6. I might be interested in those parts if they are for sale. Thank you!

Yes these parts are for sale.

$150.00 for the timing gear.

$350.00 for the intake/exhaust manifold.

Robert Kapteyn

studebaker@mac.com

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  • 3 weeks later...

In reference to you original question, resources like www.mcmaster.com and grainger.com will have just about any fastener, bolt, nut, screw, felt, gasket material, polyurethane (For engine mounts), light bulbs, graphite packing, and brake/clutch lining material, etc... you will need. I'm rebuild a 1933 Rockne and have found them a better and cheaper resource than the restoration suppliers. If you can can get you hands on a dealer parts book it will list all the small parts by size making ordering easy.

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