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Buick 6 cilinder from 1923 serie 23.6.45


c.kielstra

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Hello everyone,

I have been a member of your forum for a little while now, but my English is not very good.

My sun is helping me. I live in the north of Holland in a small province with 650.00 inhabitants.

I have relatives in Los Angeles, Buena park, Twin Falls Idaho and Edmonton Canada.

I realy like classis American cars. I own a couple of T fords from 1915 till 1923 and a TT truck of 1921, a Dodge Brothers 8 cilinder in line 1930. Also a Ford 1928 Roadster and a Pheaton 4 door Sedan, a Ford V8 truck from 1940 and my favourite; a Buick 6 cilinder from 1923 serie 23.6.45! I bought the Buick in California.

In 2013 I overhauled the Buick engine. The engine got 6 new pistons and 6 new valves.

I also got the crankshaft bearings to line drils And made a new axis and seals in the water pump.

I have a couple of problems with the Buick:

- I am looking for a flotter of a Buick roadster serie 23.6.45 of 1923 (photo added)

- I am also looking for a replica of an original klaxon of the Buick roadster.

- could anyone tell me what kind of bougies should be in the Buick?

- Does anyone have a picture of the originel treeplanken or an adress where I can buy the material for the treeplanken? I called Bob's automobilia but he doesn't want to send me a picture.

- I wonder what the best ignition time is? Right now I put it 1 inch for the dead center.

- I am looking for a distributor cap.

Thank you in advance!

Kind regards

Catrinus Kielstra

Holland

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I believe bougies is spark plugs to us in the US (I spent a couple of years, long ago) in Belgium)

The carb float cab be made.

I am going to ask that this be transferred to the Pre-War section of this forum where more owners of old Buicks will read it, and I am sure you will get a bigger response.

And welcome to the forum. That is a nice car. I know someone that might have some of the parts you are looking for.

John

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With today's octane fuels, you can run 7 degrees BEFORE top dead center with the retard lever fully retarded. I have been running this timing for over 16 years and 25,000 miles of touring.

Make sure your timing advance weights are working within the distributor by reving the engine with the timing light hooked up and noting that the timing mark advances.

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G'day mate, interesting your float appears to be made out of metal - mine is made out of cork (which seems to be consistent with what the book states it should be, it talks about applying shellac if it doesn't float properly). Bob's has a plastic replacement available that might do the trick

treeplanken are called side steps in English. I believe the timber used would be specific to where the body of your car was made, mine has local Australian timber (appears to be Victorian Ash) with metal trim around it and a rubber matting. One of the Americans can probably comment on what the Fisher bodies should have on them (or did the Dutch produce bodies locally as well?)

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If treeplanken is indeed what we call "running boards", the passenger side photo seems to indicate that side in rather good condition. But the photo taken inside shows rather poor condition on the driver's side. It seems there should be enough wood to make a pattern for this side and surely enough on the other to make a "reverse" pattern.

John

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I believe bougies is spark plugs to us in the US (I spent a couple of years, long ago) in Belgium)

The carb float cab be made.

I am going to ask that this be transferred to the Pre-War section of this forum where more owners of old Buicks will read it, and I am sure you will get a bigger response.

And welcome to the forum. That is a nice car. I know someone that might have some of the parts you are looking for.

John

Hallo,

Thank you for your response.

The float I make kurk.En I anoint two component epoxy.

Thank you by my wish to link.

Kindly regards Catrinus Kielstrta

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G'day mate, interesting your float appears to be made out of metal - mine is made out of cork (which seems to be consistent with what the book states it should be, it talks about applying shellac if it doesn't float properly). Bob's has a plastic replacement available that might do the trick

treeplanken are called side steps in English. I believe the timber used would be specific to where the body of your car was made, mine has local Australian timber (appears to be Victorian Ash) with metal trim around it and a rubber matting. One of the Americans can probably comment on what the Fisher bodies should have on them (or did the Dutch produce bodies locally as well?)

Hallo Hunter,

The platform itself is not a problem but the rim around it.

Is this aluminum steel?. Is this a show list, or a flat corner edge.

Does anyone even pictures of the rim as the original is.

Dan I can maybe even maken.

Have also person images from the rim of Bob's (Bob wants to send no photos)

Catrinus Kielstra

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Replacement floats for 1914-1932 Marvels are made by .... Gregg Lange Saginaw Michigan glange0@charter.net

He was charging $25.00 for standard Marvel floats as for my 1925.

Larry

Hi Larry,

I'm Saginaw send an email, but first I want to try it with a cork float, and soaking in epoxy.

Thanks for the email. Kindly regards Catrinus Kielstra

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G'day mate, interesting your float appears to be made out of metal - mine is made out of cork (which seems to be consistent with what the book states it should be, it talks about applying shellac if it doesn't float properly). Bob's has a plastic replacement available that might do the trick

treeplanken are called side steps in English. I believe the timber used would be specific to where the body of your car was made, mine has local Australian timber (appears to be Victorian Ash) with metal trim around it and a rubber matting. One of the Americans can probably comment on what the Fisher bodies should have on them (or did the Dutch produce bodies locally as well?)

Hallo Hunter,

The shellac is used in Holland for the anchors of alternators and starter motors, and electric motors

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Hallo Hunter,

The platform itself is not a problem but the rim around it.

Is this aluminum steel?. Is this a show list, or a flat corner edge.

Does anyone even pictures of the rim as the original is.

Dan I can maybe even maken.

Have also person images from the rim of Bob's (Bob wants to send no photos)

Catrinus Kielstra

Mine has aluminium on the edges of the running boards, so I doubt it's original - I think I have seen a similar edging design available from a pool shop of all places! I am also not sure if it differs between Australian and US bodied cars as some materials were quite difficult to get back when the car was made. I assume that the mat on top of the board, would just be a textured rubber that will have perished years ago. The Americans probably have a better idea of what should be on your car compared to mine which has an Australian made body on it.

For the shellac, it's used for a lot of different things on the car. I assume they used shellac because it stopped the cork absorbing water in the float and flooding the carb. My dash and I believe the hood timber and spokes appear to have had shellac applied to it, the dash for instance appears to have been french polished originally but again that may be specific to Australian cars as it seems to be a Victorian Blackwood for the dash. They were produced in much lower volumes than over in the U.S so there might be some differences there.

I'll have a look and see if I can find the page again in my manual that talks about applying shellac to the carb float. If you have a copy of the book, I think it's listed in the causes/symptoms section under flooding.

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  • 3 weeks later...

If you have wooden felloe,s ( the part of the wheel that goes around the spokes ) you would need bolts with larger heads. The bolts on my wheels are 3 1/2" long, where as the one,s on E bay are 3 3/16" Remove one of your bolts and measure.

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Leif:

Thank you for posting this information as it answers a question for me. The bolts on my 1925-25 are type 4. Which confirms that I do have later wheels. 1926-28, 21". I know that 2 bolts were missing and the previous owner had installed regular hex head bolts, I did find several of the type 4 to replace them.

As always thank you for your help. I still have to look out for one of these Master Parts books.

Larry

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Hallo Holmberg,

Thank you for the parts list, super.

There must be regular nuts on the bolts?.

Does anyone even 13 bolts and 24 nuts for sale.

Is there english thread on the bolts.

I bought the bolts on E-Bay.

Thanks all. Catrinus Kielstra from Holland

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There is something else to keep in mind about these wheel bolts. My 1920 and 1922 both have Jaxon wheels. The '20 has wooden felloes and the '22 has steel felloes. They both have 7/16" - 20 TPI wheel bolts as called out on the reference sheet that Leif posted. They both use Heavy Hex Machine Nuts for the rim wedges. 7/16" - 20 Heavy Hex nuts are getting hard to find these days. I bought a set of 25 from Fastenal back in 2002 and they were about a dollar a piece. I went back a couple years later for a set to go on the '20 and was told that the company no longer carried them. I bought a piece of hex bar stock and made what I needed. As far as I have been able to determine from the wheel parts catalogs that I have, all wheel bolts were fine threaded.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas America

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jbbuick22:

Thank you for the lead. I sent to McMaster-Carr and they had them to me in one day! What service. Of course the nuts are made in Taiwan. Now if I need to change a tire I can use a regular 3/4" lug wrench! Now I just have to replace two of the missing bolts that were regular hex. I had two but they were just about stripped out.

I have a group of the longer type 4 bolts for the master wheel. They are in better shape and I could turn off the stop lug and build up weld a stop to match the others. Never done!

Larry

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