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1940 56S Wiper Questions


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Also cross posting this to Post-War due to similarity:

Since I have my dash torn apart (see here if you want more detail) the wiper motor is pretty easy to get to right now. My wipers have been anemic at best, going up about 1/2 way and stopping, but with my other car issues they have been back burnered until now.

Questions:

1. Anybody have any luck with the squirting-in-the-WD40-renewing-the-seals trick?

2. What is the procedure for removing the motor? Since I cannot access where the rods tie into the motor do you drop it down and then unfasten the rods? Do you have to loosen/remove the mechanically linked wiper control first?

3. Lubrication of the transmission part (parts with the chains connecting to the wiper shafts) - what is recommended here - oil or grease?

Photos:

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Cheers, Dave

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Guest Grant Magrath

1. Yes, although I stripped and cleaned it first. Be VERY careful with the thin gasket. And study how the valve assembly works before disassembly.

2. The rods are held on with a couple of circlip type things held tight on their shafts by a spring connecting them.

3. Oil.

Looks like you need to break out the POR 15 up under there Dave!

Cheers

Grant

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Hi,

Here's the cure: Send it to Wiperman.com.

The rods are held in place with a cute little spring clip, easily undone once you see what it is.

Re-install the wiper motor before you put the dash back in. Otherwise, that motor is a %$%^$!! to install. I used hand-tightened knob-type screws rather than the slotted screws to put it back in place.

--Tom

Edited by trp3141592 (see edit history)
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Yeah, it is a bit rusty! I assume that the windshield leaked at some point in the past.

Thanks for your words on the clips. I was hoping it was something simple. So I can lower it enough to get to them? Also, do you have undo the control from the dash (I assume undo that big nut) or will it lower as well so I can unhook the linkage?

I like the idea of the knurled screw when I replace. And yes, it's all being done now! No way am I going up there with the panel on!

Cheers, Dave

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Hi,

The control lever from the dash knob is connected to the moving on/off lever of the wiper. My car had a jerry-rigged bent coat hanger wire courtesy of some prior owner, so I made a new easily disconnected control lever. I got the parts from mcmaster.com, and the quick-disconnect fittings made reinstallation of the control arm literally a "snap." It is two quick-disconnect #10-32 ball joint linkage ends (Part # 6058K31, page 1210) and a piece of 3/16" brass rod with ends threaded to 10-32.

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--Tom

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Edited by trp3141592
Added image of clip (see edit history)
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Guest Grant Magrath

Nice pictures Tom.

You could use Wiperman if you don't have the time or inclination to restore yourself, but out here in NZ, it was too expensive an option, Which is how I came to be fairly useful at rebuilding them myself. Not rocket science. Just careful study and handling, some thinners, rags, q-tips, pipe cleaners, WD-40, and you're good to go. An exploded diagram wouldn't hurt as well, although photos and drawings before you get carried away would be a good idea.

Cheers

Grant

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Hi Grant,

Good point about the expense when you are across the globe. In rebuilding your own motor you may encounter the possibility that the leather seal on the paddle is worn out. I don't know of a source for replacements for the paddle, either on your continent or mine. Ron at Wiperman doesn't sell any motor parts, although he does have blades and arms, etc.

A VERY delicate touch on the gasket is needed if you do your own rebuild.

Google Trico wiper motors and click on "images," and drawings will magically appear.

--Tom

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Guest Grant Magrath

Tom, The leather seal can be an issue, but they can be revived usually. I recall there being leather and a type of plastic used. Fortunately, the local vintage car club parts shed has an abundance of old vacuum wipers. Out of the 6 I've fixed so far, I've only had one I couldn't do anything with.

At the end of the day, if your wiper motor is stuffed, what harm can it do to have a go at restoring it before enlisting Wiperman's help?

Cheers

Grant

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On the subject of wipers.... I have seen '39's with two different outside (chrome) mounts. Because of a lack of knowledge on this subject, I will call them the tall and short design. Anyone know if this was a running change during '39 or was the design change made before or after '39 and what I am seeing is the results of people using the best parts they could find?

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Barney

They changed a lot of things mid production on the 1939s. In mid cycle they went from the short wiper towers to the tall ones. They also changed the grill part way the production run. Early 1939s had 45 "teeth" in the grill but later ones had 36. this was done apparently due to concerns about over heating on Early models. Early production cars also had a speedometer that went up in 15 MPH gradients rather than 10 MPH gradients. Buick Bugle article on the 39s in the February 2009 has more details,.

Cheers

Andrew

BCA47050

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Well I got it out today. Not fun, but it would have been a lot worse if the instrument panel and radio grille were still installed. By shooting in some WD-40 I was actually able to get it to oscillate using my 2.5cfm vac pump (pulling abt 12"). And it "parks" nicely now when the vaqlve is closed. But I think I will send it off to wiperman anyway since I don't want to do this again.

Now, the wiper transmissions. Working the rods, they seem pretty tight. I oiled the left side (have to get the glovebox out to do the right) but it did not seem to help much. Short of removing them, another painful job, is there a good way of working in some lube?

Cheers, Dave

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Hi Dave,

As I recall, I didn't take my wiper transmissions out. I took off the arms and lubed the shaft from above with Lock-Ease, which is a penetrant spiked with graphite. The penetrant evaporates and leaves the graphite. Seemed to do the trick.

It also fills your fingerprint ridges and valleys, and it doesn't wash out of anything you get it into.

--Tom

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