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Maxwell AA


Guest Phil Cordery

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Guest richentee

The engine number ought to be located in three places. 1) stamped on the cam shaft cover on top of the engine; 2) stamped on the rear cover/bearing holder of the transmission/engine case; 3) on a brass plate located on the front of the kickboard of the seat. You might also find a Selden plate there with a separate number.

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Guest Phil Cordery
The engine number ought to be located in three places. 1) stamped on the cam shaft cover on top of the engine; 2) stamped on the rear cover/bearing holder of the transmission/engine case; 3) on a brass plate located on the front of the kickboard of the seat. You might also find a Selden plate there with a separate number.

Thanks for the prompt reply, car just bought wont see for 5 weeks,

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Guest Phil Cordery
Thanks for the prompt reply, car just bought wont see for 5 weeks,

My car has a 2 cylinder engine, I have a number 4711, can anyone work out the engine size

HP & Year of manufacture, Thanks in advance Phil

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Guest Phil Cordery

Thanks for prompt con6tact, apparently my car is a 1910, its still in the USA , so wont see for 3-4 weeks .Phil

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest John0
My car has a 2 cylinder engine, I have a number 4711, can anyone work out the engine size

HP & Year of manufacture, Thanks in advance Phil

from the book I have on Maxwell's by James Zordich the AA has a 4" x 4" bore / stroke and is 12 HP.

Regards John

1909 A

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Guest hph1000

Phil

I'm based near Cambridge Uk and have a Maxwell AB. Feel free to contact me if you need help. One piece of advice I received too late was never drive one of these until you have stripped and checked the differential

Howard Hodson

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I think that's good advice on all these old cars, Howard. My '12 Hupmobile differential had excellent-looking ring and pinion gears. I opened it up all the way and found one of the thrust bearings was entirely gone. Model T guys will tell you what will happen if you don't replace the T's pot metal thrust washers. The Maxwell differential, I've heard, was lubricated and sealed for life. The owner was to occasionally add lubricant, but never drain the unit and start fresh.

Phil

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Guest hph1000

Phil. You are right about the units being sealed for life. But it can be worse than you describe. The diff itself is completely sealed on, I think, all but the late twin cylinder cars so no matter how much oil/grease is in the axle, none gets into the diff gears. Later diffs had three small holes drilled in the carrier so oil could get in and out, but probably only if the level was high enough. 100+ year old grease isn't going to be much good these days. The teeth on my gears were worn to a point and mine had the three holes!

Howard

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Guest John0
Phil

One piece of advice I received too late was never drive one of these until you have stripped and checked the differential

Howard Hodson

I was fortunate that the person who had my 1909A before me has already striped and replaced the pinion gears & Bearing, and fitted a modern grease nipple to this which I grease before driving each time.

IMO though the other critical area in the 2 cylinder Maxwell's is in ensuring that there is sufficient oil in the sump and flowing through the drippers to keep the bearings lubricated, especially the front bearing. I've heard of 2 of these where the front bearings have worn and I'm sure it is due to the lack of oil getting to the front of the engine. If there is some oil in the sump and the you can see the oil drippers constantly running at a reasonable rate, then this should not be a problem.

In my car I had a problem where these oil drippers never were running constantly and would vary depending upon the speed of the motor, although everything seemed to be ok, ie ball valves in place and operating properly, and the oil tank and system was sealed, the always slowed down when the engine speeded up.

Although I cant prove it I'm sure that this is due to the changes made to the engine that differ from the original when it was restored, ie modern pistons and rings, my fix for this was not a conventional one, but works and gives me great confidence that the drippers are now working in a constant manner.

What I did was I bought a battery powered aquarium pump and using a T piece plumbed this into the oiling system near the oil tank, the added pressure from this is enough to keep the oil flowing constantly through the drippers regardless of the speed the engine is running.

JohnO 1909 A

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