Remove the Ignition Switch on a 49 New Yorker?

Hi,

I need to replace my ignition switch and I have the new switch with keys in hand. How does the old switch come out, do I have to take the dash apart or what has to be removed?

I have a cable running to the switch through the firewall, I searched the forums and see this has something to do with the coil. My coil is mounted on a holder on the eng with wires going to the distributor.

the cable looks like it goes to the front where the horns are. What were they thinking?

Thanks for the help.

Look up through the underside of the dash right below the IGN switch and you will see a hole that lets you remove the screw holding the IGN switch to the dash. Pull the switch back and armored cable back enough so you can pull it down enough to see the tiny little push in pin on the switch. Put the key in the IGN switch and turn the key to run, then the little pin should push in 1/8". Pull key and tumbler assembly out of IGN switch housing. Put new tumbler and key back in with key turned so tumbler will go back in/run position- there is an alignment slot for proper orientaion of key tumbler. Once it's puyshed in all the way turn key to off, remove key, install IGN switch back in dash.

Bob

c49er

Thanks. I see the hole is much bigger in the picture than on my car. I actually have to replace the entire switch not the tumbler. When I start the car and let the switch come back to the run position, if the key is jiggled at all the electrical connection is lost.

So I got a whole new switch tumbler and key. I have the doors and trunk keyed to their own key and the ignition is a different key so it all good. now I will learn how to remove the armored cable and put it on a new switch...

What is the reason for this armored cable? Does the coil work different than on later cars where you have power to it and the other side goes to the distributor. Can I use any power to drive the coil? of course paying attention to the positive ground and how the system was built.

You would not by any chance know is the factory set screw a flat head, Phillips or a hex would you.

Thanks again

Yea,

I got the old switch out...now what. I have pictures here of the difference between the old switch and the new switch. I need to know where some of the wires go on the the new switch. On the old switch the wire that ran through the the cable that just goes to the firewall I am guessing I should connect to the terminal on the new switch that says BATT.

The old switch has terminals labeled "AM" , "ST" , and "ACC".

The new switch has labels "ACC", "ST" "IGN" and "BATT"

Does the AM wire now connect to IGN on the new switch?

Does the Wire that is in the cable connect to BATT on the new switch?

Thanks, I really need help on this.

I'd put the stock correct switch in with the armored cable. You got a 1953 and later switch which you cannot put the armored cable too. You can use the 53/54 switch.... here are factory 49-50 Chrysler wiring diagrams.

From the labeling I would guess:

Old switch:

AM - Ammeter (power to switch)

ST - Starter

ACC - Accessories

Since the armored cable cannot be detached it probably does not have a label.

New:

ACC - Accessories

ST - Starter

IGN - Ignition (equivalent of the armored cable on the old switch)

BATT - Power (equivalent of the ammeter connection on the old switch)

c49er, thanks for the diagrams. I cannot put the original switch back in it is broken. The armored cable is nothing but a conduit that goes from the switch to the firewall and the wire inside went to a small electrical box on the left fender and that wire is in such bad shape I can not reuse it.

Ply33, Thanks I am going to try to use the new switch with your label ideas. I have some 10 gauge wire I am going to use for the ignition (replace the bad armored cable wire)

I'll try hooking it up tomorrow and give an update soon after.

Hi,

No.1 is where the Armored wire from the ignition switch comes out of firewall.

No.2 is where this wire was connected.

What is this box with the wires going to it on the fender called?

Yes I know my wiring is a disaster, I have lots of work to do to replace it, it's a miracle it was running and charging normal!

Thanks

Thats the M6 transmission 30A circuit breaker and resistor unit box.

Thanks,

so I am guessing thats what cuts out the ignition (power to coil) for a split second for the downshift?

I am handicapped when it comes to electric stuff, I wish it was as easy as mechanics is for me. lol

No....the interupter switch on top of the trans grounds out the points when the direct speed piston move back for the automatic KD while the KD switch on the carb is used for forced downshifts with the accelerator.

The resisor in that resister circuit breaker unit on the inner fender well prevents IGN current feedback that could energize the solenoid on upshifts.

Oh Ok,

That piston must move very quickly and the downshift happens fast to prevent the eng from quitting. Mine downshifts sometimes, usually just as i start going from the stopped position I'll hear a fairly loud "Bang" when the downshift happens. So what I started doing is I put the clutch in when I stop and then engage it fully before letting off the brakes and everything works ok, the upshifts are super smooth and quiet.

Thanks for the info..

The trans interupter switch is a plunger type ball switch that the downshift piston moves forward and backward under this switch grounding opening and closing the dist ground circuit.

A banging chrysler M5/M6 trans is not a good thing after checking wiring, controls, idle speed and fluid levels. You got it figured out though as to make it shift smoother and quietly!

It only Bangs when it is accomplishing the downshift. I guess it would be downshifting late since it downshifts as I begin to move away from a stop going forward instead of downshifting before the car completely stops.

The upshift works very good. but it is my understanding that the upshift works without any of the wiring working but the downshift requires the wiring and electrical parts to work. My wiring is in such a bad state it is likely the problem on downshift not working correct. But in the mean time holding in the clutch for a few seconds causes the trans to downshift so its good until I get time. I hope to put in the new ignition switch tomorrow and see if it will work.

Sounds like you have no voltage to the KD solenoid for automatic coming to a stop downshifts. Better get or build a proper trans harness!

YEA! It's alive. I got the switch all hooked up and everything works like brand new and I have learned a whole lot more about my new Yorker than I new before.

It would not have happened with confidence if it was'nt for the help of you guys on this forum.

Now for the hard part of putting it back in the hole and getting the set screw in.

Thank you very much. now that it runs reliably without dying when I hit a bump or the key is jiggled, my next project is to get the rear brakes adjusted and the vacuum assist canister under the frame working, right now the only thing stopping the car is the new front brakes to PO had installed.