Anyone want to help make a setreo and speaker replacement guide>??

Hi all, I've recently joined the forum after buying a 89 TC. I've done a bunch of searching on aftermarket speaker and radio installs and haven't had luck finding threads with pics. I'm going to buy a dash kit w/ harness to handle the radio. I'm planning on buying 5.25 components for the doors and placing the tweeters where the dash speakers go. I'm most likely going with a set of 5.25 speakers and a set of 6 inch speakers in the back and two ten inch subwoofers. I've already bought a 4 channel amp and two ten inch subwoofers. I already have a pioneer cd player and a amp for the two tens + all wiring minus the rca's, so I guess all I have left to order are the inside speaker sets and the dash kit. I'll be making my mind up on which ones to get sometime this weekend when my wife isn't looking Okay so this is what I'm thinking.. I really would hate for something to happen to the interior while doing the upgrades and would really appreciate any insight on how to access everything. I'm sure I could figure it out on my own, but I would like the help of the forum. In return I'll take plenty of pics to be saved for future reference. Any help is appreciated. If the speakers get here by next weekend I'll do it then, if not it will most likely be the following week.

Jay S.

For getting the dash apart go to spedo thred started April 16, 2013 and download the PDF instructions, door panels are what they are, be careful not to break the switch trim locking tabs they are old and brittle. For the rear storage shelf cover you have to use the brail method to access the speakers, I daon't have any pics to post, haven't seen any here and don't think it's in the shop manual. Small flashlight and flex head inspection mirror will really helps make that job easier. 10 inch subs without case could fit in the open space behind upholstry, not good for sound and I have no suggestions for getting the sound and hiding those speaks.

When you say storage shelf do you mean the upper or lower speakers? I noticed the lower covers just pop off. Also, what do you mean by the brail method?

Jay S.

When you eat storage shelf do you mean the upper or lower speakers? I noticed the lower covers just pop off. Also, what do you mean by the brail method?

Jay S.

Brail method: using your fingers to find the fasteners, when you think you've got them all, you still have two more to find.

Yes the speaker covers pop off, but the open hole isn't large enough to change out the speakers, you need to lift the storage deck.

Got it. Is there any nuts/bolts or screws or is it just clips+ fasteners?

Jay S.

Also I'm not sure what it's called but the abs plastic or fiberglass? "Boot" cover that goes over the soft top, does that have to be removed to access the rear speakers?

Jay S.

Also I'm not sure what it's called but the abs plastic or fiberglass? "Boot" cover that goes over the soft top, does that have to be removed to access the rear speakers?

Jay S.

For the rear speakers open the tauno and lift the soft top out of the way, speakers are bolted from rear and easily removed. Rear storage isn't as easy and "yes" to all of the above. You can get enough room to replace rear storage speakers without completely removing the storge deck, but changing the wiring connect is a whole different story, tools aren't as flexable as fingers.

If you're replacing the rear speakers because they're blown and rattle, save the onboard amps, takes very little to retask those to work with door speakers. Rattling rears can be replaced with some of the older Bose cube speakers, the amps on door speakers don't live long enough to kill a coil and I would like to have a spare pair of onboard amps.

Is there a difference between the amps on the 4 rears, or are they all the same? I'd like to keep two amps. If there is a extra usable set you can have them for helping

Jay S.

Is there a difference between the amps on the 4 rears, or are they all the same? I'd like to keep two amps. If there is a extra usable set you can have them for helping

Jay S.

Rear amps are the same and easliy removed from speakers, don't ruin a good speaker amp set, if the speaks don't rattle when you run up the volume, box them up and save them for someone in need.

If they've lost their good sound cut them free, good speaks are easy to find. Fixing those gubered up sealed in goup amps is easy once you get the crap out of the way. It's the sealent that makes the job a pain. Speaking of pain, wear lightweight gloves while reaching in under the storage lid.

Rear amps don't take the hammering that the door amps do and some of them are rumered to be potting compound free and one pinpoint solder connection away from becomming front speaker amps. Much easier to fill with potting compound to create door amps than it is to remove and repair the old onboard amps.

When you pull the rear storage assembly you can do it without removing the center counsel, do cover the arm rest with cardboard just in case.

Ok. I think I'm going to order a set of 5.25 Pioneer components for the front, and 2 sets of Pioneer 5.25 coaxials for the rear. 720 watt FLI 4 channel amp. Components on front channels and 2 coaxials bridged on each rear channel. Not sure which amp for the two tens yet. I have a few but I'm going to get a new one for this car. Mostly will pull the 1700 watt Sony out of the 87 Daytona Pacifica for the time being. Can't remember how many rca sets the radio has, but it's probably one or two so I will have to order line out converters. Also ordering some thin sound deadening material that I can hide behind the trim. I hope whoever gets this car after me appreciates the time and sound.. going to sleep it over and will order tomorrow.

Jay S.

Jay, I'm not into electronics like you seem to be so this might make more sense to you than it does to me. Seem to be a very complete article on radio repair. http://www.allpar.com/stereo/Infinity-II/index.html Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress, Bob

Where are you going to mount the 10 spks.

10 inch spks. That is.

Your new amps. Should have low level inputs and low outputs also, so it won't matter how many your head unit has.You will be able to balance the sound by using the gain adjustments.

Where are you going to mount the 10 spks.

That's a very good question.. My original plan was to do 3 tens and make a custom box, but decided that will be a lil too much. I'm thinking that I will focus on getting the interior speakers in and wired and just have the subs in the trunk but when I pull the interior our there is no telling what ideas I'll come up with. Without having everything removed the best ideas that come to mind are a custom box in the trunk and the amps hidden besides the spare or to make a sub box there that ports into the cab with amps concealed and the spare relocated into the trunk. I bought 25 sq. ft. of 50 mil sound deadener last night.

The amp I bought (used) for the insides doesn't have hi-level inputs so I ordered a few cheap converters to add on to my order. The radio has two sets of RCA's (front and sub) I'm going to use the converter for the rears right off of the factory wires.

A removable box would work in trunk or behind sets. The far rear spks. Location will fit 6 bass spks.if you mount then from the front, after you remove one piece stock cover, then the stock cover can be replaced.note their is depth problems when soft top is in the down location ,this area makes a great bass box .You will get great sound and save $

parts list thus far:

Pioneer head unit -DEH-44HD (pulled from another car)

Pioneer 5.25 components -Pioneer TS-A1305C ($49.84)

Pioneer 5.25 coaxials x2 Pioneer TS-G1344R ($29 each set)

FLI 4 channel amp -FU720.4-F1A (used $25)

25 sq ft of 50 mil sound deadener ($38)

Sony sub amp -XM-D9001GTR (pulled from another car)

10 in Power Acoustik subs x2 -Power Acoustik FUBAR-10W (used $70)

dash kit w/ wiring harness ($9.50)

50 ft of 12 ga speaker wire ($14.25)

line out converter ($5)

I'll eventually replace the radio with something with GPS and put the Pioneer back in the Daytona. I'm also going to run a extra set of RCA's so It will be ready when I upgrade radio's and will leave the line out converter in incase the next owner decides they rather buy it without the GPS radio. If I'm not content with the sound of the subs I'll replace them with a set of Infinity subs. They are my favorite subs when it comes to sound quality/ spl/ and price..

A removable box would work in trunk or behind sets. The far rear spks. Location will fit 6 bass spks.if you mount then from the front, after you remove one piece stock cover, then the stock cover can be replaced.note their is depth problems when soft top is in the down location ,this area makes a great bass box .You will get great sound and save $

I considered putting larger speakers there (6 or 8 in) but I want to keep it as low profile as possible. I'm hoping it is possible as I only plan on having this car a couple of years. I want a heavily modified Lebaron convertible as a daily driver so I'm going to try my best to keep this as clean as possible. I guess the plan at the moment is a box in the trunk.

It should have low ins and low outs.Don't buy amps. For there high watt rateing, buy them for their low distortion rate.

I usually only buy name brand, as needed, and match RMS but I got it pretty cheap. As much as I wanted to keep this ultra cheap I knew deep down that it was still going to cost more than what I wanted to spend. I'm going to go back and edit the parts list post with prices to give everyone an idea..

Some down, read carefully, convertes will add distortion! Go back and read this over I think you have misunderstood .

Boot area make great box ,stock cover Will go back on over 6 in. Bass spks. With no add box.

Some down, read carefully, convertes will add distortion! Go back and read this over I think you have misunderstood .

I agree on the distortion, I'm not really a fan of converters. This will just be temporary until I get another head unit. Thanks for clarifying that the 6's will fit. I remember reading somewhere that they would but I wasn't really sure.

Run at least 12 gage power line from battery to amp. Fused at the battery and at amp. Access through fire wall above drivers left foot and through rubber grommet ,by carefully poking hole next to wiring harness with a test light or with an icepick.NEVER try to power, high power systems by tapping into any stock wires!

I'm running 2 gauge to a breaker and then 4ga from there to the amps. All wires from amp to speakers will be new. The only stock speaker wires used will be the rears to LOC. 4 ga is usually the smallest I would use for amps, although I'm not against 8 ga for amps that are only a few hundred watts

Jay S.

Jay,Have you started yet? I See we're only 90 mins apart .I did this professionally for years and I would like to help you free of charge.

I ordered everything on the list, just waiting for things to get here and for it to warm up a little. Where are you located?

Jay S.

Use 2 to1 ys RCA splitter.

Smokes nc.

I thought of that only problem with doing that is I wouldn't be able to adjust the front from the rears which is pretty important to me because I want to be able to lower the output of the rears when the top is up. I also considered running a EQ that has fader controls but decided not to.

Jay S.

Smokes nc.

Is that near Asheville? I've been in SC 10 years but I'm not originally from here..

Jay S.

You can fine tune the sound by using the gains on amps. Once you have it adjusted you shouldn't have to mess with them again.

Yes 20 mins. From Asheville.

Equalizer is good idea .

My last Volvo convert had subs in the seat and somebody went through a lot of effort to get them in. I didn't go through the effort to find what they were. Someone whose done this professionally willing and close enough to help, probable knows where to get and how to open a seat to get them in. They won't be 10 inch, but they will be worth the effort.

Equalizer should be low outs only and low distortion.

Equalizer should be low outs only and low distortion.

I was thinking of either putting one where the stock CD player would be(mine didn't come with one) or somewhere hidden but in reach. I just don't want to spend the money on a good unit and don't really want to put a cheap one in.

Jay S.

My last Volvo convert had subs in the seat and somebody went through a lot of effort to get them in. I didn't go through the effort to find what they were. Someone whose done this professionally willing and close enough to help, probable knows where to get and how to open a seat to get them in. They won't be 10 inch, but they will be worth the effort.

Back around 95 one of the "older" guys from my neighborhood had a Blazer with hydraulics that took up the whole back so he put subwoofers under the seats. Man, he once gave me a ride to my girlfriends house and that was something else lol. I've been in cars with speakers built into the seats and liked them a lot. I like a lot of bass in my cars so that wouldn't work for me. In thinking about putting a shallow mount sub in my wife's PT GT so she won't lose too much space. When I got the subs and 4 channel I talked the guy into selling me a clean mono 250 watt RMS MTX amp for $25.

Jay S.

Sweetness , sounds like it will rattle the screws lose, in your tc! Rock on! Nomad