Jayspartanburg's 89 TC Maserati project log/ build thread

Where did he mount them?

Made that out of pvc and plexiglass temporally for the TC. It's temporary although it doesn't look bad from a distance

This is where I have my boost/vacuum gauge set up- undermounted just right of the steering wheel. Looks like it would be obscured but works perfect for me. I can view through the empty space on the steering wheel between 3 and 6 o'clock position, and it's well out of the way of glare from the sun, plus it isn't sitting up on the dashboard to block my view. I wasn't too keen on poking around with the electrical at the fuse access so I wired the gauge up through the stereo's switched power.

The gauge pod itself is a universal 'dash mount' single gauge pod, gauge is a 7-color model, I haven't decided if I like the blue or red LEDs yet. Both available from GlowShiftDirect.com

It's been awhile since I've given an update, but I've got some good and some bads news. The 2.5 gave up on me. I was riding top down earlier this year, loving it on the SC backroads and when i got on the I85 on ramp I gave it some gas and when I got up to approx 70 MPH the car cut off. Looked under the hood and saw the crank pulley was dangling. It snapped straight off! I have pics somewhere (I think) but I still have the broken snout as proof. I also saw a broken rod and some other stuff later in the year when I needed to borrow the TC's oil pan for another car. I'll be pulling the drivetrain out soon and reinstalling the original 2.2 T2 CB engine and a a520 3.50 fd 5 speed. The engine and trans are ready to drop in, so hopefully it won't be long. Once I get the clutch pedal in, I'll really be all in and determined to get it done. I'm going to go back thru my thread and post whatever mods I've done since.

Alright a lil update and what's going in the car. Ported 782 head, 550cc injectors (actually rated at 43.5 pounds) that are rebuilt/flow-matched, 255 Walbro, socket SMEC, ported exh mani, slightly ported 1piece intank, MTX-L wb gauge, wiring to center console for MPScan, 52mm TB, and 3 bar map. I have it all except for the map sensor so under the hood should be set. 

I thought it was here, but I guess it's in a separate thread but I have the sound system installed. All pioneer speakers with the front set being components. The inside run off of 4 channel amp and I also had a couple of RF P2 12's in a box in the trunk but with I'm going to have to do redo some stuff because..

 I'm going airride with the TC!  I'm going with a older airbagit unit.. I know these designs never had good rating because they we're prone to leaks at the o-rings, but I've been incontact with a rep there and they're going to send me a couple of sets of rings. Strut bags mounted GR-2 struts. I tested them earlier in the year and they did good but I had to locate some o-rings which was the hard part. I have a playstation style controller that will eventually be replaced for something that matches the car better. I have the factory wheels back on but would eventually like some 18in lace wheels. I'm still not sure if I'm going to recover the front seats or swap in a different model. I think that's a nice lil update..

It's been awhile since I've given an update, but I've got some good and some bad news. The 2.5 gave up on me. I was riding top down earlier this year, loving it on the SC backroads and when i got on the I85 on ramp I gave it some gas and when I got up to approx 70 MPH the car cut off. Looked under the hood and saw the crank pulley was dangling. It snapped straight off! I have pics somewhere (I think) but I still have the broken snout as proof. I also saw a broken rod and some other stuff later in the year when I needed to borrow the TC's oil pan for another car. I'll be pulling the drivetrain out soon and reinstalling the original 2.2 T2 CB engine and a a520 3.50 fd 5 speed. The engine and trans are ready to drop in, so hopefully it won't be long. Once I get the clutch pedal in, I'll really be all in and determined to get it done. I'm going to go back thru my thread and post whatever mods I've done since.

 

When you say "gave up", it sounds more serious than that. Are you saying that the crankshaft broke or the pulley bolts let go?

It reads as though the cast crank totally detonated. When you got up to 70 MPH, what gear was that in, 1st?

The engine should be able to tolerate 70 MPH in 2nd gear without any problem. Just asking 

When you go to put the clutch pedal in, are you planning on replacing the bracket that the brake and clutch pivots from?

There is an 'up-stop' on clutch equipped cars that allows for cable adjustment, that IS NOT on the bracket of cars with automatic transmissions. Take a close look.

Good luck with the conversion to the 5 speed. 

It's been awhile since I've given an update, 

Here is a closeup picture.

I was thinking of making a bracket similar to the one thats in the picture that has the"neutral"switch in the pic, but out of thicker metal. I'm hoping that'll work. As for as the engine, the snout of the crank broke right off. I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it. I saw the crank broken in at least one other spot. I'm going pull the engine Saturday, so I'll take pics of that too. Hopefully there something worth salvaging. BTW I got the pic off of a thread on TD where someone did a 5 speed swap in a van.

Pic

Looking at the pic, I'm going to use a bolt and then a few tack welds to make sure it doesn't spin. Ill cover everything up to make sure I don't burn anything. JS

How bout them apples. Over looking the fact that my car broke down, I still think it was pretty cool.

Was that outside the front main seal? It looks like it's been cracked for a LONG time and finally just gave up. I have also heard of this happening to some other people and part of the solution was to use a longer crank pulley bolt so that the hole and threads were supported almost the entire bore. In stock form I believe the bolt comes well short and can lead to this type of failure.

Was that outside the front main seal? It looks like it's been cracked for a LONG time and finally just gave up. I have also heard of this happening to some other people and part of the solution was to use a longer crank pulley bolt so that the hole and threads were supported almost the entire bore. In stock form I believe the bolt comes well short and can lead to this type of failure.

I thought it was inside, but I'll take a look this weekend when I work on the car.

Going to post a pic from my cell of the strut bag. Haven't really touched the airride stuff in awhile, but that's about to happen. I snapped it earlier and didn't think to share. 

I thought it was inside, but I'll take a look this weekend when I work on the car.

Going to post a pic from my cell of the strut bag. Haven't really touched the airride stuff in awhile, but that's about to happen. I snapped it earlier and didn't think to share. 

Looking at the photo, you can see the front crank seal, with all the ridges on the backside, down at the bottom of the 'stub'.

So it was definitely inside at the point the stub contacts the forward most counterweight.

Some pics..

More pics...

Rear brakes are getting pretty bad on my Acura CL type s so I'm going to get some rotors and pads at the LKQ 40% off sale to hold me down until I can afford to get some good stuff for it. I bought 6 sheets of plywood that are approx 3x6 for $4 a piece so I should be able to get the engine and trans rolled in on my gravel driveway.

Work in progress..

I'm guessing too long a bolt that bottomed out?

More pics...

Well, that WAS that. Now what? That engine is scrap.

awesome pics!

Holy crap! How did it break the block!? It makes me wonder if there was a catastrophic failure in a gasket or something that caused and instant hyrdolock situation? Of course I didn't see the "milkshake" usually associated with that so...I dunno! That's one of the worst failures I've seen out of one of these engines not pushing much power. I have seen a N/A 2.5 eat itself (thing looked like it came apart at 10,000rpm...it was in an auto minivan! LOL)...that one had us scratching our heads, too.

Holy crap! How did it break the block!? It makes me wonder if there was a catastrophic failure in a gasket or something that caused and instant hyrdolock situation? Of course I didn't see the "milkshake" usually associated with that so...I dunno! That's one of the worst failures I've seen out of one of these engines not pushing much power. I have seen a N/A 2.5 eat itself (thing looked like it came apart at 10,000rpm...it was in an auto minivan! LOL)...that one had us scratching our heads, too.

How about 10,000 RPM? Once something lets go at those RPMs, anything can happen? Any of you guys watch NASCAR? 

I have the engine in the car connected to the mounts and nothing else. Before I go any further with that I'm going to clean out the inside a little because I've been using the car for storage. I plan on figuring out where and how all the airride stuff will be mounted. Also going to cut the center console for the manual shift boot.

Got the inside cleared out and the airride stuff in the trunk ready for me to install it. I'm thinking either something like in the pic with the tank and valves on one side and the compressor in the other. May throw everything in the middle and make a false floor. Decisions decisions decisions... also have the clutch pedal in, going to cut the brake pedal in place and make a clutch pedal stop. Let's see when the weather and my schedule let me put in some work. I'm also expecting a baby this month so we'll see..

^ I love the direction you're taking it. I would stuff it all in the well in the center and cover it as long as the compressor wouldn't overheat. Either way its super cool that you're adding air ride to the tc

How about 10,000 RPM? Once something lets go at those RPMs, anything can happen? Any of you guys watch NASCAR? 

You had to have seen the carnage! LOL I couldn't believe what I was seeing knowing what the engine was, who was driving it, and how it was used. I've seen outboard boat engines nuke themselves at WOT that looked more savable! LOL

I like the idea of the air ride stuff...it's just the size of the rest of the equipment that's killing me. Between wanting to put a nicer stereo that will require some space be used for a sub and amps, wanting the keep the car somewhat practical (as practical as one of these can be) and the tank/pump/valves required for air-ride...makes me reconsider.

I have 2 amps where the spare tire was. I'm thinking if I build a small enough box for 3 8's or maybe 2 shallow mount 10's I should have some space left over. What's killing me is 1) I originally planned on going with a engine driven compressor for the air but I wouldn't dare disable the AC on the Masi as I would the Daytona and 2) I really feel that I'd be happier with a larger air tank. Guess when I put everything together I won't put to much work into the install incase I feel like some of the components need to be upgraded.

come to think of it I have a portable air tank (maybe like 7 gallons). When I get everything working I'll most likely temporarily connect it in place of the other one to see if there's a significant difference. 

 

 

 

2 10" subs

 

How did you stop the Inevitable rattle and deaden that? I'm very interested in that type of set up

I have been thinking about the sub mounting as well and was thinking of modifying the spare tire storage area and put the amps in the trunk under the soft top shelf.

As for the air ride...I'm going to ask a very uneducated question...why do you need such a large tank? I understand it if you are using the system as somebody might at a car show, etc. but I really would have no intention of doing that. I just want to set the car up the way I like it and leave it be. I have a race car if I want to muck around with suspension settings all day.

Today I noticed the windshield is cracked pretty bad. I'm not very happy about that! I went to the car with the intention of getting it ready to start and after the windshield incident I lost about 45 mins of my time stuck on how I can't afford a replacement  for a few months.  I did get about 2 hour worth of work and cleaning up done tho. 

I have been thinking about the sub mounting as well and was thinking of modifying the spare tire storage area and put the amps in the trunk under the soft top shelf.

 

As for the air ride...I'm going to ask a very uneducated question...why do you need such a large tank? I understand it if you are using the system as somebody might at a car show, etc. but I really would have no intention of doing that. I just want to set the car up the way I like it and leave it be. I have a race car if I want to muck around with suspension settings all day.

I would like to play with them a lil from time to time, but more than anything the thought of the compressor noise!!   When I was going to use the engine driven compressor (EDC) it wasn't an issue but I'm sure the compressor going in the trunk will eventually get on my nerves. I think tomorrow I'll connect it to a battery and see how bad it really is. If I had the extra money I'd get someone to build me a tank somewhere hidden. 

O-rings are on the way from airbagit. The compressor isn't as loud as I was scared of, so hopefully it isn't too bad with the engine running. Not much to update, I'm getting a cold or something, so I'm going to take it easy..

Guess one last update before I do anything  else. I figure instead of going thru the hassle of trying to find the fabric to match when I do a false floor and having to get it right I;m just going to go with a wood floor in the trunk. Should make it clean and presentable. I have a teammate in my basketball rec league team that does flooring for a living so I'll probably let him tackle it for me.

Pic from earlier..

Ok quick update. I haven't done anything to the car. lol. The strut body is 50mm and the opening on the lower bag mount is 52mm. I could wrap elec tape around the strut and it lessens the air leakage but if I wrap more tape to close the gap, the bag mount won't slide over w/o sliding the tape down. I tried to make a sleeve out of exhaust tubing and planned on welding it to the bead where the lower spring perch was but, I'm trying something different that would be easier to work with in the event that I have to change the struts. I've order some hear shrink that will go over the strut body to close the gap. If anyone else comes up with anything else that would possibly work please do share. If that doesn't work I'll most likely just make a custom lower mount. Forgot to add that the heat shrink wont be in stock until 1/13 and then I have to wait for it to ship to me, but I'll take advantage of that time to get the car running. I'm dedicated on getting this to work to the point that I'm not going to drive the car until I have the airride working or I give up on it. 

If you smear the heat shrink with RTV before you set the air bag it will seal and be removable if need be. Have you considered using aluminum tape to build up the inner core of the air bag and smearing the strut with RTV, it will be easier to control sizing and make cleanup for reuse easier.

I met a big old Indian a few years back who was so good with a stinger that he could have welded the crack of dawn if he'd wanted to. If you're that good with a stinger, OK; if not, I strongly recommend against welding on a charged gas strut.

If you smear the heat shrink with RTV before you set the air bag it will seal and be removable if need be. Have you considered using aluminum tape to build up the inner core of the air bag and smearing the strut with RTV, it will be easier to control sizing and make cleanup for reuse easier.

 

I met a big old Indian a few years back who was so good with a stinger that he could have welded the crack of dawn if he'd wanted to. If you're that good with a stinger, OK; if not, I strongly recommend against welding on a charged gas strut.

I haven't thought of the alum tape, but I will most definitely keep that in mind. I ordered 16 ft of heat shrink so I'll have plenty. My first attempt last year was actually with rtv and it only lasted about 10 seconds. I thought about using liquid steel but dismissed the thought after a while(cant even remember why I decided against it) From what I've read on forums, the only safe place to weld would be on that bead. I was going to work around if I was to weld to avoid burning thru. I think its the only place thick enough not to weld thru. The inner diameter of the bags o-rings are 50mm, so I'm hoping 1 (or 2 max) layers of heat shrink will do the job

Hey, I remember why I decided not to use the liquid steel. I figured I'd have to roughen up the strut to get it to stick right and was worried about damaging the strut if it didn't work. 

I recommend a thin coating of the red RTV for sealing those pesky hard to seal air leaks. It's stronger, bonds better and whether you build up with tape or shrink wrap, it will help to keep it where you put it.

As for welding on a charged strut I don't care what the forums say, that bead on the strut is not a safe place to weld, it's just the safest place to weld, if you're a good welder.