1963 New Yorker, trying to pull brake drum: )(%*#$)(% tapered axle!!!

What am I doing wrong? Been trying to pull the LR brake drum for two weeks. My 1963 Chrysler New Yorker needs new brake shoes. I have repeatedly sprayed penetrating oil, have beat on it with a hammer, have what I think is the correct three-legged drum puller on it with so much force turning it that I can no longer get it any tighter, still no luck.

Pete Phillips

Leonard, Texas

Looks to be the correct puller. Are you using a BIG hammer and hitting the dogbone just as hard as you possibly can? Also, be certain that the puller is tight to the studs and axle. Go here, read this and try again. Don't forget the part about adjusting the brake shoes ALL of the way in.....

http://forums.aaca.org/f145/1947-chrysler-rear-brake-drum-removal-364757.html

I usually place the dog bone horizontally as it is easier for me to hit with the hand sledge that way. . . I've heard that some people with heavy duty 1/2 inch impact guns with a good high pressure air supply simply use that instead of the dog bone and a sledge hammer. But the hammer has always worked for me and my puller looks identical to the one in your photos.

As Keiser31 mentioned, do check that the brakes have been backed off.

I don't see the axle nut reinstalled part way. Do that for two reasons: 1) Keeps the puller from messing up the threads. And 2) Keeps the drum from flying across the room and damaging something or hurting someone when it finally lets go.

Once you have the puller TIGHT against the axle, hit the middle of the "T" with a hard lick. Does wonders.

If you are using the hammer in the first photo, you will never get it off. You need a hand sledge hammer. A couple of hits with the sledge and it should be off.

If you are using the hammer in the first photo, you will never get it off. You need a hand sledge hammer. A couple of hits with the sledge and it should be off.

Wow....I almost didn't see that hammer. It's as small as the screwdriver next to it. YES! Get a bigger hammer.

If you are using the hammer in the first photo, you will never get it off. You need a hand sledge hammer. A couple of hits with the sledge and it should be off.

Wow....I almost didn't see that hammer. It's as small as the screwdriver next to it. YES! Get a bigger hammer.

I didn't see it until 61polara mentioned it. Way too small! Here is the one I use. And, if I had one bigger, I'd probably use it.

My god here we go again!!!!

My god here we go again!!!! Use a big hammer, be a big man and swing hard!

tap around the drum a bit ( to break anything loose )

and do at what the fellow members have mentioned, swing at it =)

tap around the drum a bit ( to break anything loose )

and do at what the fellow members have mentioned, swing at it =)

Agree with all of the above but most importantly dont expect it to come off on day 1, you will need to keep tightening the tension and banging with a hammer, leave it and come back for a day or two more, repeating until it lets go.

It will come off in a day if you do it right!

It will come off in a day if you do it right!

Agree

I have used a TEN POUND SLEDGE HAMMER and not at the dogbone but at the end of the puller shaft. Always worked. Never hurt the center of the differential.

I have used a TEN POUND SLEDGE HAMMER and not at the dogbone but at the end of the puller shaft. Always worked. Never hurt the center of the differential.

Given the design of the axle, I'd be more worried about damaging the wheel bearings doing that.

Another thing to try (worked for me); found a socket that would fit the end of the puller shaft instead of the dogbone. Used it with a rachet handle with a 4 foot pipe as an extender. After I pulled it tight, just gave it an extra click every couple hours. Took 2 days, but it worked!

the Spicer design rear axles are a pain to deal with...I have had a few snug ones now and again and not until this Volvo with the Spicer did I have ever to resort to a more aggressive method of removal. DO NOT SMACK THE END OF THE PULLER is a big big red flag in the book, internal damage could result. I used a 5 foot cheater bar on my dog bone along with my 200 lbs of body...then carefully place not one, but two propane torches to the left and right side of the hub at the same time..one side popped loose in about 4-5 minutes while the other took about 9-11 minutes of heat..both did pop without slamming the end of the puller or beating on the drum.

the Spicer design rear axles are a pain to deal with...I have had a few snug ones now and again and not until this Volvo with the Spicer did I have ever to resort to a more aggressive method of removal. DO NOT SMACK THE END OF THE PULLER is a big big red flag in the book, internal damage could result. I used a 5 foot cheater bar on my dog bone along with my 200 lbs of body...then carefully place not one, but two propane torches to the left and right side of the hub at the same time..one side popped loose in about 4-5 minutes while the other took about 9-11 minutes of heat..both did pop without slamming the end of the puller or beating on the drum.

He's right! I don't have the hammer attachment for my puller, so I removed a drum on my '50 Windsor by smacking the shaft with a sledge. . .which worked great. . .and then the next week I replaced the bearing and the seals. Trust me, you don't want to go there! I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar, which is enough for me. If I needed more, I'd try the pipe leverage and heat trick.

Don't smack that shaft!