Series 13 stuck exhaust valves

I've been soaking the heck out of the stuck (open) exhaust valves in #4 and #6 cylinders. Used Kroil no luck, now trying kerosene. I guess the next step is to remove the rocker arms, I think I read someplace maybe in the ACN that it might be possible to get them loose by pulling up with vice grips once the rocker assembly is out of the way? One of the valve stems looks like someone has already tried that.

Is there anything I should know before I start removing the rocker arms? My car is equipped with a valve oiler.

I also read that the valve stems might have cotter pins in them? Would they be visible with the springs in place?

Thanks

Steve

Hi Steve -

Yes, you can pull the rocker cage assembly to access the valves - it's just the clamp at the bottom of the pushrod tubes and then the two bolts attaching the cage to the cylinder.

And then - yes, you can try to pop the valve back up. Maybe you can free it up.

You can also remove the valve spring by inserting a tool, air pressure or other means to hold the valve closed while you compress the spring to remove the keepers. There is (should be) a small cotter pin in the valve stem, accessible after the springs are removed.

But............

I have found that when a valve has been stuck hard, the best repair is to pull the cylinder off and remove the valve entirely. Then the guide can be well cleaned and the valve stem polished and proper clearance confirmed. If they are stuck hard - they are likely rusty and it's extremely difficult to get all the rust off witout disassembly. I have freed up valves this way, only to have them stick again soon after. Only after disassembly, cleaning, etc. did the problem go away. If you find a successful method without disassembly, please let me know - it's worth a try. But if you decide to pull the two cylinders, it's not difficult and will allow you to look tihngs over a bit while repairing the stuck valve problem for good.

Keep us posted -

Tom

Thanks Tom for the information. It's probably best to remove the cylinders as you suggest so that will be my plan.

Tom,

I've decided to remove the cylinder(s) to do the repair properly. Before I start, is there anything I should know so that I don't screw up the job? Obviously I'll have to be sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke in the crankcase, below the cylinder, before I begin. My thought is to place a small diameter wooden dowel in the spark plug hole and rotate the engine by hand, checking how far down the dowel travels in the cylinder. Is there a better way to do this?

Also, are gaskets available and if so from what source?

Thanks

Steve

Hi Steve -

Whle it is helpful to have the piston at bottom, it is not absolutely required. It does lessen the risk of piston skirt damage once the cylinder is free and teh rod flops to one side.

After you have the valve cage off, manifold joints disconnected and cylinder base nuts removed, the easiest way is to put some protection on the hood sills of the car and get up and straddle the engine with feet on the sills. Then pull the cylinder up and off. Be sure the spark plug is out. It might take a bit of jerking to break the manifold joints free and sometimes the cylinder will fight coming through the air shroud, but otherwise it should come off.

Tom

Gaskets -

You can get whatever you need from Jeff Hasslen 763-441-7815 evenings/weekends

tom