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Oil pressure sensor and temp. sensor changeover


Beltfed

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I'm interested in changing these two sensors over to a more modern type than the "King-Seeley" type. I've already changed the fuel sender, also a "King-Seeley" type, with good results. It's easy to build the temp./resistance and pressure/resistance curves for the two. Problems is...the part store. You just get a glassy stare from them when you ask them to match these valves to a sender. They say "model, make, and year and I'll look it up". Has someone already done this and can give me a modern p/n? I've done this with my 1939 Packard and ended up with a Jeep oil pressure sender at NAPA after a bribe of several jars of home made jelly. Thanks.

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You want help using a custom part? blasphemy! Ha ha, just kidding.

Can you take yours in and compare? Sometimes the smaller part stores (or Napa) still use books and are more accommodating. Not always but sometimes. Good luck, Ill definitely be interested in the outcome.

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I will update this post with the information when I solve this problem. I start this week with creating the different resistance/pressure/temp. curves. Then visit my FAPS to research for the correct sensors. Stay tuned. Heck, if it was easy, women and children would be doing it.

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The 50 psi unit is correct for all V12's however you may have a hard time finding a "new" one as most suppliers offer only the 80 psi unit. The 50 psi senders were used on Kaisers and I managed to get one from Kaiser Parts but that was sometime ago. It's a bit larger than the Ford unit but works with the Lincoln gauge.

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I went about task of finding a couple of water temp sensors that were close to what I needed spec wise. I had them on the bench testing the resistance curve and such. I found a problem...if the sender and gauge are left power on for a little while the sender starts to heat up. This makes the gauge start reading higher as these are the inverse type (higher temp./lower resistance). As times goes on the gauge creeps up. The current running through the sensor started at about 70 milliamperes. I shut it off when current reached 150 milliamperes. I'm afraid the water temp. sender is going to have to remain a "King-Seeley" type if no one knows a way around this.

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