Guest Ptwms@live.com Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 My 1930 Fordor in good original condtion won't start. There is spark at coil wire and points but not at plugs. I replaced the coil, condenser, dist. body, cap and rotor. There seems to be voltage at all the right places. Cranks fine but won't fire. Also, lights, horn and wipers not working but not sure if there is a relation... Some "old hands" have looked at it but are stumped. Any fresh ideas would be much appreciated... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WEB 38 Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 Has someone added an in line fuse some where or an anti theft or cut out switch? Sounds like the spark is grounding out some where. Are the coil wires Pos. ground. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 Have you pulled a plug and checked for spark? If your car has an original ignition switch it may be shorted inside which does happen from time to time. Did you check the condenser lead wire? If the lights and horn don't work you may have a broken wire or loose connection at the ampmeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 If you have a good spark at the coil wire and not the spark plugs, the cap, rotor, or dist. body is at fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Mellor NJ Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 See if the distributor shaft is turning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete O Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 (edited) If you have a good spark at the coil wire (and I mean an nice fat strong spark) and not the spark plugs, the cap, rotor, or distributor body are suspect. But you say you replaced them. What you've left out of your investigation is the sparkplugs. Have you pulled them and checked for fouling? The horn, lights and wiper not working seems to indicate that there is a fuse somewhere that has blown. Blown fuses mean a short somewhere, and a short anywhere can effect the ignition. I'd hunt that short down and fix it, along with checking those plugs. Edited November 18, 2013 by Pete O (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ptwms@live.com Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Has someone added an in line fuse some where or an anti theft or cut out switch? Sounds like the spark is grounding out some where. Are the coil wires Pos. ground. BillThanks for your reply, Bill. No fuse, anti theft, cut out or any other accessories except cowl lamps. I tried reversing the coil wires but that did not help either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ptwms@live.com Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Thanks much for your interest. New ignition switch, ammeter connections tight. Plugs are new, with just enough moisture to know it's getting gas. New condenser, but I don't know if there is supposed to be some kind of insulating washer on the back of the condenser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ptwms@live.com Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 JF, thanks for the tip. However, I have switched the cap, rotor and body. Someone said I could have a short inside or underneath the distributor but I'm not sure how to check for that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ptwms@live.com Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Sure, Dave, it is turning normally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Do you have a copy of the Model A Mechanic's handbook? There is a good troubleshooting section there that will help you find out where the problem is. Also, just because you have replaced a part does not always mean that the new part is working correctly (or that you got it installed correctly). It is necessary to follow a systematic troubleshooting chart to find these types of problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Mellor NJ Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 If you know a model A owner nearby you could ask to borrow his complete working dist and try it in your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WEB 38 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 On the 1930 models the ignition is connected thru the ammeter. Make sure you have voltage there will cranking. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vermontboy Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 It's a long shot but back in the 60's I had a similar no start and the spring loaded end of the ignition switch wire into the base of the distributor had broken loose. I was in college at the time and walked the cable down the road to a local mechanic who charged me 25 cents to solder it. Those were the days.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 You might want to try reading some previous threads with similar problems. The same troubleshooting method described here should help:http://forums.aaca.org/f140/no-spark-286108.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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