Got started on the 55 Buick

I'm going to give the factory drive train a chance so...I drained the fuel from the tank, it looked like root beer. The wife talked me out of messing with the old one so I removed the tank replaced it with one from Tanks Inc. Got it from a local rod shop for $25 under what Tanks was asking. Installed a new pickup-sender and filters added 5 gal of gas the gauge works. Will have to replace the old electric fuel pump as it won't pump anymore. The mech pump gave up long ago, might rebuild it at a later date. Pulled the top off the Stromberg cleaned out the 6 year old crud.

Changed the oil and filter, got reminded how much fun a canister filter is to change.

Got the Pertronix conversion new plugs and wires wires for the ignition part of the project.

I hope to have it up and going soon. It's at the family farm 6 miles from my house makes it hard to get to during the week after spending the day in a Cat 938 wheel loader. So it's a weekend project right now. I'll post some Pics when I get it rolled out in to the light of day.

I don't think you'll regret staying with the Nailhead and Dynaflow. Lot easier on the 'ol pocketbook for sure and straight up Nails just look so much cooler than than a slant 8 Chevy IMO. If it has been sitting long without cranking, just be careful with them little nailsized valves, they tend to stick after sitting awhile. Look forward to following your progress.

BTW, considering that you are staying with the original DT and it won't be that "modified", you may want to consider starting a thread up in the Me and My Buick. Totally up to you of course, just post, post often and include pictures, we love pictures.

Ditto what MrEarl said about sticky valves. You may want to turn the engine through by hand for a couple revolutions just to be safe. If it does crank up and run ok, consider some additive like Marvel Mystery Oil to clean up varnish.

If it's been sitting that long, it also might be advisable to pull the valve covers off and put some thin lube on the valve stems and such. You can also inspect the valve seals too, possibly. Then some thin lube in via the spark plug holes. Maybe even loosen the valley plate and put some oil in there, too? THEN some "hand crank" activity to see if things are good. Something else might be to get a container that can stand some pressure AND hold a few quarts of oil, plumbing it in via the oil pressure sender hole, to put oil in the oil galleries before the engine's oil pump gets it there OR find a way to use a stout drill motor to spin the oil pump's shaft prior to starting the motor.

Please keep us posted on your progress!

Enjoy!

NTX5467