Chains

Can someone tell me what the correct tension should be for the chains driving the tires- should there be a little slack in them or should they be completely tight with no slack? Thanks

I have A MODEL BC and a MODEL D. I AM USING REPLACEMENT CHAINS #60 AGRICULTURE. I LEAVE SLACK OF @ ONE INCH IN THE CHAINS, JUST ENOUGH TO PUT IN THE CONNECTOR LINK AND HAVE A LITTLE "PUSH" LEFT. BE SURE YOUR CHASSIS IS SQUARE BY THE ADJUSTING OF THE RODS, THIS PREVENTS THE THROWING OF ONE OR THE OTHER CHAIN IF IT IS OUT OF SQUARE. (DO THIS BEFORE INSTALLING THE CHAINS)

I hope this is readable. The text came from a 1909 book. Good luck.

Thanks John and Caddyshack. That is great info and very helpful . John- when you say "adjusting of the rods" which rods do you mean ? I can say that when I have put the chains on the car ( both chains identical length) I had to adjust one of the hubs further back than the other one so am I assuming correctly that would mean the chassis is not square? Thanks.

The hubs could have been out of adjustment after you put the car together, assuming you took it apart for paint etc.

The chassis adjustment rods will square the chassis. Check the rods at the hubs as well after you are sure the chassis is square. These hub adjusting rods are done individually after you have gotten the chains on....there is a lock nut which will allow the hub to be moved back or forward as necessary to even out the chain tension. This will have to be done again after using the car a while, especially if you are using new chain because of stretch. Too loose is better than to tight. I use a lube for garage doors made by wd40 apply and wipe off excess with a rag after application so its not all over the car. After you've done all this Jack the car up and place on stands all the way around and run in gear so you can observe the chains. If you see that they appear to be "flying up" at the top of the hub tighten them just a little more. When you get this accomplished you will find the car will shift more easily as well.

Thanks for the great info. Hopefully soon I will be driving the Brush down the road . Will update as things progress.

Getting closer to driving but now have another question. My tranny was rebuilt years ago and has remained exactly that way since except for being painted recently. My question is should I be able to shift through into the gears without the motor running? Reason I ask is I can shift into high and reverse but not low and the transmission guy that looked at the transmission thinks that maybe the car needs to be running in order to shift into low gear. Fine tuning my tranny may be beyond what anybody in my small town can do. If I need to crate up my tranny and send to someone is there any recommendations? Thanks

Brush f 26....What year and model Brush do you have? The transmission adjustments are best done with the car on stands and running. You should be able to shift into low by the actuation of the shift lever thru the guide in the casting on the shift mount. Think of your pedal as a clutch and a brake. There should be a pedal adjustment that allows the feathering of the low to high and as you release the pedal it should fall into high. As you depress the pedal when the car is in high gear and running it should take the transmission out of gear as the brakes are applied simultaneously. The notches on the side of the pedal should lock into a plate on the floor board along side the slot for the pedal to move and be pressed into the lock down position. ( I

BRUSH F26...PM me and perhaps I could talk with you on the phone, John