49 Windsor Oil Pan

Alright, so my Windsor is leaking oil out of the oil pan, so after consulting my manual I decided to order a gasket and go ahead with the process. I've got the car up and the pan unbolted, but it simply will not come off the car after resting on the tie rod. The manual says to "lift the oil strainer, pull the pan reward and drop." Well, I must be going about this wrong because I still cannot get the pan to come far enough reward to clear the tie rod and drop. Anyone know where I'm at in the process? This Chrysler shop manual isn't nearly as valuable as others I've seen for other vehicles....

I believe that the oil strainer is on a pivot and flips up so it will clear the shallow part of the pan. You may also have to turn the wheels one way or the other all the way to drop the tie rod enough for the pan to clear. I have had to drop the tie rod from the idler arm on some cars.

Thanks for the tip on the oil strainer! I did end up turning the wheels a bit which gave the pan quite a bit more room, so I think i'm in business for the most part. Getting late now and it was a long day, so I'll pick it back up in the morning.

The oil pan couldn't be any more loose, but I cannot get it far enough reward to clear the tie rods. The manual says to remove the clutch housing, and makes it seem like a simple drop, but to me it seems like the housing is the entire transmission case....

"clutch housing" I assume they mean only the sheetmetal dust pan?

There is a pan underneath the clutch assembly which is preventing me from bringing the oil pan back far enough. I've unbolted 8 bolts on the under side of this "clutch pan" and two on the front which are adjacent to the oil pan. This "clutch pan" is loosened now, and I can get it where is seems it wants to fall free, but it wants to spring back up when I pull it down. I get this pan off and all my troubles are solved....

There are two 7/16" studs that hold the trans-at the bottom of the trans and go into the lower cover-must remove the studs , Ten 1/2" hex bolts that hold the cast iron cover to the bottom of the bell housing (two are kinda hidden above the cross member if even installed) and a large cast support bracket at each side of the lower cover that have four 9/16" hex bolts- All of these bolts and studs must be removed to pull the cast iron lower fluid drive cover.

It would be way faster to pull the steering linkage if you had the tie rod end tool.

Bob

Yeah, this whole process would have been done by now if I could have just pulled the tie rod. I have all bolts undone but the last stud to disconnect the trans won't let go and with the limited room I'm working in it's a lot more work than it should be. Are both the studs bolts, or is only one an actual bolt and the other attached inside the cover? I pulled the bolt on one side, but the other just had a nut and the stud remains.

It probably is better I went this way as the rear motor mount bushing are completely shot and have been making the car shake when stopped. I get these gaskets replaced and pans cleaned and I'll go ahead and replace those before I take the thing off the stands.

Can someone else chime in here? The fluid drive is different than my Dodge. I cant be any more help I dont think. But from the way it sounds I would consider dropping the tie rod even if I had to buy the tool.

I just got it. The second stud had no bolt head, so I ended up using a tiny vise grips and reversing it out. What a pain.

This job would have been MUCH easier just removing the tie rod, or having a lift which would give you much easier access. I'm a weekend mechanic in training so it's all new to me. I can do everything but fully dismantle a motorcycle engine bolt by bolt, but autos are a a bit more foreign to me. Cannot imagine doing all this on something recently manufactured.

Should be easier to reassemble now, especially considering the degree with which I plan on cleaning the pans and the undercarriage.

Excellent!

As for easy replacement of the rear upper mounts.... good luck! Usually there is not enough room to raise the rear bell housing up enough to be able to get the rubber mount that is mounted on the TEE washer tube- that washer mount tube extends down into the cross member hole. The engine has to be raised at least 2-4 inches to get the mounts out. The new ones are taller and even tougher going back in! Sliding the engine forward makes it easy but unless you pull the engine that won't be easy. Misc. Pics of little plymouth mount donut and bigger Chrysler 6 cyl. donut (heavier to support the fluid drive trans and coupling). The Chrysler flathead "8" uses an even larger rubber upper donut mount.

Bob

You know of a place to purchase just the upper mounts? The lower ones are still in excellent shape.

Bernbaums has both the upper and the lower mounts sold individually. If these are the original mounts I would replace them all while you have everything apart. Just because the mount may "look" good doesn't mean it is good - if it is old. I would also take a look at the front motor mount while you are at it.

To make the job easier - but it takes a little longer - to gain the height clearance you could remove the front floor pan. It bolts into place and that would give you room to raise the tranny. It would also make it simpler to put the new ones in from the top instead of from the ground

Joe

1949 and later 2nd series (C45) removable floor pans are only on the drivers side of the floor and will not help much if any in replacing the rear mounts. Removal of the transmission sometimes helps as the brake drum and band hit the floor pan cross brace. 1946- 49 1st series of chryslers (models C38) have the full width floor pan which when removed will simplify the job of replacing the rear mounts.

It's really the top of the bell housing and trans that hits the floor hump and causes the clearance issue.

I have used a porta power wedgie to simplify the mount issue at times.

To replace the front mount the radiator will have to come out. A lotta work!

I'm going to throw the pan back on this afternoon with the new gaskets, and know that the end gaskets must rise above the pan 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch, but the side gaskets are a bit long. Anyone else trim these slightly in order to get them to sit flat on the pan without pushing into the end gaskets, or should I tuck the excess down into the channel which holds the end gaskets?