49 Windsor runs horribly after carb cleaning and new kit install

I went through the carb and cleaned quite thoroughly, installing new gaskets along the way. I'm not too adept at carbs and was probably biting off more than I could chew, but the car now idles pretty rough, but does idle. I sprayed a bit of cleaner around the carb to check for leaks and the RPMs didn't rise, but the two times I've tried to take the car down the road it will die and not want to restart after a couple minutes of driving, but it'll sit and idle, albeit roughly, as long as I want it too. I didn't touch the distributor, so I struggle to see how the timing may have been affected, but this is really baffling me. The car had a slight miss prior to the cleaning, but nothing significant. Now it seems to have a major miss at idle, but smooths out if I hold the revs, but as soon as I take it down the road it seems to flood...maybe? Anyone have a similar situation or know what I may have done wrong?

Check the float level and the needle valve. Make sure the needle valve operates smoothly. If it gets hung up the carb will either flood or run out of gas.

By cleaning the carb you could have dislodged some tiny dirt particles which could be clogging the jets, etc.

If you turn the adjustment screw(s) on the carb does it make a difference?

The way I was taught by my uncle years ago is to turn the adjustment screw all the way in (be careful - you don't need to tighten it) and then back it out 1 and a half turns. This usually will get the car started and then you can make final adjustments after it is warmed up.

Float level is good, and the needle and assembly are brand new. The adjustment screw is also new and I started it off 1 1/2 turns out. Also noticed while the car is idling the exhaust seems to be a little on the darker side, which I hadn't noticed before the carb clean. I took the top off the carb again and there is definitely fuel in the bowl, and when I move the accelerator fuel is shooting into the carb assembly.

There are certain settings that need to be right. You can't go by the instruction sheet that comes with the carb kits. They are incomplete and filled with errors. It is best to get the original factory instructions, either the repair manual from the car maker or the maker of the carburetor, in your case Carter. You need the directions for the exact model of car and motor you are working on.

The little cylinder with the single wire coming out the end is what I'm assuming to be the condensor. It was attached to the IGN (ignition) post which I guess I'm not entirely sure was right to begin with. My manual doesn't give any; images was this correct? Could it perhaps be a small part of my issue if its bad or placed wrong? The car runs with or without it attached just the same....

The condenser is inside the distributor. If you have one on the coil it is probably for radio interference suppression. It won't affect the running of the car but the radio may pick up static from the engine if you don't have it.

Replaced a decent number of original wires and wholla! The car now runs much closer to what it should. I'm thinking the wiring to the automatic choke mechanism was my biggest issue. On a side note, I am still having a bit of an issue with the generator. The battery wants to drain when driving and the electronics quit working . I installed new brushes in the generator and clean the vital connections, but it still appears as though the generator is not working. Anyone have luck with a place like Oriellys rebuilding one, or know of a good place to buy a new/remanufActured one?

There should be some good rebuilders in your area. There usually are, there is a good one in my town (pop 17000) and a better one in the next town (pop 8000).

Their rebuilts are about 5 times as good as the chain store jobs, for half the price. There are about 4 grades of parts you can buy, at different prices. A good rebuilder uses the better parts, chain store rebuilds scrape the bottom of the barrel.

Don't overlook the voltage regulator. Try tapping with a screwdriver handle, sometimes the points stick. It may just need to be cleaned and adjusted.

Look in the yellow pages for auto electric shops or ask a good mechanic, or your old car buddies, who is best on old cars in your area.

I don't have my manual in front of me here so look in an old 'Motors manual' But I think if you use a jumper and ground the field terminal of the regulator it will eliminate the regulator and show full charge. An easy test to figure out if you may have a failed regulator.

AGAIN, LOOK IN A MOTORS MANUAL FOR THE YEAR BEFORE YOU TAKE MY WORD FOR IT. If you don't have one reply here and I will look it up for you tomorrow.

There is a guy on ebay that sells a 6 volt pos earth alternator for less $ than a gen rebuild. (very minor wiring required, and easy to go back to original)

Car is running well, and my new motor mounts just shipped, but it seems I'm still having issues with my charging system. I had my generator tested and it was working fine, but I'm not getting any output through the field post on my voltage regulator. I replaced the original with a brand new BWD regulator, but the field post wasn't outputting any current so no charging. I exchanged that one tonight with a new one of the same model and it's the same deal. Anyone have an idea what I may be failing to do here?

Did you polarise the generator? Shouldn't need it if it was working but who knows. The only other thing that comes to mind is faulty wiring. If the gen is good and the reg is good, and they are connected properly there isn't anything else to go wrong.

I did polarize the regulator. I cannot 100% verify the wiring, but there is no current at the field post whatsoever. I'd think even with a bad wire there would be some current at the post....perhaps I'm wrong?