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1926 Dodge won't start


Guest dadsdodge

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Guest dadsdodge

Hi,

The sat for a couple of years and much to may amazement, it started right up.

I let it warm up, drove it around the neighborhood off and on for a couple of hours.

I cleaned the exterior, drove it one last time for 15 minutes.

Parked in in the garage.

Two hours later went to drive it and it did not start.

It pops like it wants to run and that's all. It does not start.

Any though why if won't run?

Thank you for any advise and guidance.

David

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Guest dadsdodge

Hi, I did not remove the gas as I had used gas stabilize just in the tank. I did disconnect the fuel line and flush out what was in the firewall canister and line from the tank to carb. If the valves are stuck, what is the remedy?

I will check the distributor for moisture.

Thanks for the quick reply.

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Turn the engine over with the crank and if you feel compression on all 4 cylinders you have compression. That means the valves are O.K. Next check for a spark. If you get a spark at all 4 plugs the chances are you have fuel starvation. If there is no spark then it's the ignition circuit.

Let us know how you get on. It is probably something simple.

Ray.

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Sure sounds like she's not getting any gas. I'd drain the tank and put in new gas first of all. Does your carb bowl fill up with gas?

David, When my Plymouth "pops like it wants to start" I usually have a fuel mixture problem in my carb, for what it's worth. Good luck! frank
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  • 2 months later...
Guest dadsdodge

Hi,

Tested for spark and all plugs have spark.

Tested for fuel and fuel is in the bowl and a fuel pump has been installed.

Tested for compression with only cylinder 3 having compression.

My thought is there are stuck valves.

How can stuck valves be checked?

Please share any thoughts or advice.

Thanks to all for your thoughts, expertise and help.

David

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Howdy brother in no starts!! I have a 27 sedan, which sat for 2 years, and wouldn't stay running. It runs until it acts like it dies of fuel loss. I pulled the filter in the tank pick up, no gunk. I had an in line filter, replaced it. Cleaned filter in vacuum tank top, drained carb float bowl, reamed out chamber from bowl to carb, and then as a last resort, pulled an electric fuel pump, as the last thing in the chain. Bypassed the pump area, blew out all the lines, primed the vac tank, and guess what? Still acts the same!! Took the fuel pump apart,and what a surprise!! The ethanol gas made jelly out of the diaphram!! The whole insides was a big blob of rubber!! However, no rubber gunk was found anywhere in the system, so I'm back to page one! Our club has a picnic and car show tomorrow, so as a last resort, I might trailer it there with a for sale sign in it!! Today I'll keep trying, so wish me luck!! Chuck

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I had this problem once. The valves are sticking from old oil around them and the heat from your first running seized them up a bit. Like others have already said, remove the valve cover to see which ones are the big culprits and shoot some kerosene or carb spray (no floods!), on the stems. Remove all the plugs, work the stuck valve down by tapping with a hardwood dowel through the plug hole on face of valve. Use only wood! Use the engine crank to lift the valve will lift back up. Do this until no more "stick". Do each one. You'll find about half of them are sticking bad. When you think all is better, replace plugs and hand crank engine. You should feel the springiness in the hand crank for EACH cylinder on compression stroke.

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You should also check the air valve slide in the carburettor , these can stick open if gum is built up around the after the engine has been hot . I have seen this on cars that don't get used very often , take the two screws that hold the throttle body to the base out ,drop the base down little and you will see if the valve is stuck open ,if so take apart and clean. bob

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Hi David. Your compression problem is typical of a car having stood idle and as others have said you should free off the valves which are sticking. I go along with Pete K; it's the deposits of old oil (and carbon) around the valve stems which are the problem but the stale gas/ethanol theory is interesting. We are seeing a lot more problems with gas these days and it may well be adding to the trouble in your case. I assume you have checked oil and water of course. We have 5% ethanol now but it will be going to 10% unless our Government can be persuaded that the consequent reduction in m.p.g. and damage to older fuel systems is a retrograde step. Pigs might fly!

Hope you get it fixed o.k.

Ray.

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Guest DodgeKCL

I've had this problem too. Engines that have sat for years are known to stick their valves in the open position from varnishes in the old oil working like glue on the valve stems. The cam lobes will push them open but the valve springs do not have enough omph to reseat them. In the past the only way I could fix it was to remove the head and hit the valves with a plastic mallet to reseat them. Brush some kind of thin lubricant like kerosene on the stems through the valve galley openings and keep doing it until they move freely when you just spin the starter motor,ignition disconnected. And I guess it goes without comment that you change the oil. I would also put in something like Risilone with the new oil to kill the varnishes as they dilute with the new oil and change the oil again in maybe a 100 miles no more. (I think you Yanks use something called Marvel Mystery Oil which has been around for decades to help with this problem and melt and dilute the varnishes. All seem to swear by it.)

Edited by DodgeKCL (see edit history)
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Guest dadsdodge
Howdy brother in no starts!! I have a 27 sedan, which sat for 2 years, and wouldn't stay running. It runs until it acts like it dies of fuel loss. I pulled the filter in the tank pick up, no gunk. I had an in line filter, replaced it. Cleaned filter in vacuum tank top, drained carb float bowl, reamed out chamber from bowl to carb, and then as a last resort, pulled an electric fuel pump, as the last thing in the chain. Bypassed the pump area, blew out all the lines, primed the vac tank, and guess what? Still acts the same!! Took the fuel pump apart,and what a surprise!! The ethanol gas made jelly out of the diaphram!! The whole insides was a big blob of rubber!! However, no rubber gunk was found anywhere in the system, so I'm back to page one! Our club has a picnic and car show tomorrow, so as a last resort, I might trailer it there with a for sale sign in it!! Today I'll keep trying, so wish me luck!! Chuck

I have experienced this in other cars.

Things to check:

Check the carburator float does not have a hole in it. If if fills, it sinks stopping gas flow.

Check for something loose inthe fuel line and tank. We once a bee inthe fuel line wasing back and forth. When off the car started, then whne flow started the bee plugged the line.

Something a contact suggested and you might consider. Bypass the fuel cannister feeding directly from the fuel pump to the carburator. Leave the fuel cannister for looks.

All the best with it.

David

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I have experienced this in other cars.

Things to check:

Check the carburator float does not have a hole in it. If if fills, it sinks stopping gas flow.

David

I think it works the other way. The float needs to rise with the fuel until it closes the needle valve. A punctured float will allow the carb to flood. The end result is the same though - no go.

Ray.

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  • 7 months later...
Guest dadsdodge

Hi,

It was stuck valves due to old gas in the fuel line.

I cleaned up the gas lines, loosened up the valves with automatic transmision fluid and it is good now.

Thanks to all for you feedback and suggestions.

David

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