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1955 Buick Century


Guest Minispdrcr

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Guest Minispdrcr

Hello, my name is Marcin and I finally found a my dream car. So it seems that I have found a new project. Got this from Craigslist and its in great shape, just one dent below the passenger headlight. Got this for a amazing price that I couldnt pass up. It runs and drives, just the driver rear slave cylinder leaks. Already have all the parts ordered, going to replace all slaves, the master and the hoses. Might as well.

Yes, I know its a 4 door, but I like 4 doors and it doesnt have the pillar once all are down.

This was the field where I found and picked it up from. It sits nicely in my garage with my VW Bus.

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Edited by Minispdrcr (see edit history)
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Guest Minispdrcr

He said about 5 months. Got it for 2200. Runs and drives just doesn't want to stop yet lol.

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VERY NICE Marcin. Congrats on a great find and rescue. There is nothing in the world wrong with a 4 door, post or no post. Those 4 door hard tops are the best of both worlds though. Again congrats and welcome aboard.

By the way, the bow tie is usually found in the rear view mirror. ;)

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Guest Minispdrcr

So far it's the car that doesn't want to lol.

And yes the radio still works :)

Have the day off Thursday so it will be getting the brakes done.

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Just use hydraulic jack oil. I tried some motorcycle fork oil once and it apparently was the wrong viscosity and I broke some shock links. See my website (click on BuickRestorer in my signature) for details on resealing the rear shocks.

Willie

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Guest Rob McDonald

I like 4 doors and it doesnt have the pillar.

Hurrah for that! In my long considered opinion, 4-door hardtop Buicks are better proportioned than the 2-doors - not so butt-heavy. They're handier for passengers. They're easier to get out of, in a tight parking space, although why would you park there anyway? Top of the list, they're half the price. Four doors rule!

Edited by Rob McDonald (see edit history)
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Guest Peter Bird

Nice car! Just wondered whether the chrome work around the front door is specific to four doors only? Really like that look, but my 2 door just has a handle and no trim work like yours and the door card is relatively flat compared to yours.

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Guest Minispdrcr

Wish I could tell you Pete. Mine just came that way, I am sure someone that knows more will let us know though :)

also oh this part where the parking brake attaches to, seems the spot welds have given out and it moves quite a bit. And the strange thing is, is that it looks like the metal went up, maybe a quarter of an inch. So would I have to bring it down or can I just weld it up in the location that its in now. Since I would think it would be a pain in the rear to bring down.

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Edited by Minispdrcr (see edit history)
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Hurrah for that! In my long considered opinion, 4-door hardtop Buicks are better proportioned than the 2-doors - not so butt-heavy. They're handier for passengers. They're easier to get out of, in a tight parking space, although why would you park there anyway? Top of the list, they're half the price. Four doors rule!
I'm with you Rob! Funtionality and utility! What's the point in having a good looking woman to show off if she won't cuddle with you. Like having a slick and fat milk cow that don't give milk! 4 doors RULE! John Edited by TexasJohn55 (see edit history)
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[quote name=Minispdrcr;1178277

also oh this part where the parking brake attaches to' date=' seems the spot welds have given out and it moves quite a bit. And the strange thing is, is that it looks like the metal went up, maybe a quarter of an inch. So would I have to bring it down or can I just weld it up in the location that its in now. Since I would think it would be a pain in the rear to bring down.

I looked at one of my parts cars, and the alignment of that part is not so important (a board between that piece and the lower dash might pry it into place?). I would use pop rivets (steel if available) unless you have the car disassembled, then welding now or later would be the best.

Willie

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  • 9 months later...
Guest Minispdrcr

Alright, well I went ahead and sent out my booster to get refurbished as mine was leaking everything under the sun and more. When I got it back the 5/16 fitting did not want to go back into it, the one from the filler tube, and a 1/4 inch fitting did. What I had to do was get a adapter. Is this right? I know the line is supposed to be 5/16 so why would the nut be smaller? Am I missing something?? Is it good to run it that way?

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I'm not understanding what the problem is. Pictures? Maybe the rebuilder changed something --- call them. Anyhow, if it is just the filler portion and it is not leaking, you are good to go. I might worry about having to adapt the output side.

Willie

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Guest Minispdrcr

The part is the same one as I had sent out, the problem I think is when I tried to tighten this down. The PO drilled out the fitting from 1/4 to 5/16 and I snapped it in there. The re-builder is a VERY well known re-builder so I doubt he would have done anything to change parts.

I will get pictures tonight.

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Guest Minispdrcr

I found it here in Oklahoma in a little town called Slaughterville. But originally I saw it on Craigslist, with no pictures posted. I emailed for pictures and went the next day to get it lol.

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Guest Minispdrcr

Here is the picture. I know the car uses the 5/16 line as it is in the parts manual as a 5/16. But for some reason it just wouldnt fit and the company that rebuilt it said that the line used to directly screw into the nut, hence why it didnt fit with the fitting.

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Yea, mine definitely doesn't use that fitting. Why is it there? maybe the seal inside the end nut of the master is bad? If you HAVE to use the fitting, then you need to get line to match, but the extra fitting in the middle is not original

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Please don't be offended here, but, I see you are using the green coated lines and fittings…..

I was at the local auto parts with a bin full of these…. I grabbed the

familiar ones I was looking for and left…..

I was confounded when one of them WOULD NOT even begin to thread itself

into the old fitting…..

Turns out they displayed the various brake line lengths with both SAE and METRIC versions/thread sizes

together! …. They look identical sitting there in the bins!

I didn't realize I was using a metric one, until I actually read the little tag at the other end of the piece

in question.

mike

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Please don't be offended here, but, I see you are using the green coated lines and fittings…..

I was at the local auto parts with a bin full of these…. I grabbed the

familiar ones I was looking for and left…..

I was confounded when one of them WOULD NOT even begin to thread itself

into the old fitting…..

Turns out they displayed the various brake line lengths with both SAE and METRIC versions/thread sizes

together! …. They look identical sitting there in the bins!

I didn't realize I was using a metric one, until I actually read the little tag at the other end of the piece

in question.

mike

I had this same thing happen at first!

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Guest Minispdrcr

I have a stainless steel line coming that I will bend up and put in. I checked these and these were SAE, the middle fitting I had to use because the 5/16 would not fit into the nut. The nut for some reason would fit a 1/4 fitting but not a 5/16, so I had to get the adapter. I dont see why a company that MANY on here recommend would steer me wrong, but it just wouldnt fit without the adapter.

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Guest Minispdrcr

They are?! So why did my parts manual state 5/16 and thats what was on it? At least this line that goes from the filler tube to the booster will be bigger I guess.

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I would think that using a 1/4 inch line to the splitter instead of the larger 5/16 line, would cause a restriction and result in increased foot pressure on the pedal to apply the brakes. Double flaring a line is not too difficult. I would suggest cutting the old line so you can reclaim the original fitting that came from that port, and then installing that fitting onto a piece of 5/16 " line.

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Guest Minispdrcr

The old fitting was drilled out to accommodate the 5/16 line, so when I went to tighten it it just sheared off inside the nut. Thats how I got the new nut/bolt/whatever and found out the line on the car wouldnt fit it. This is just the filler area of the brake system, so hopefully it will not increase the foot pressure to much.

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I wish I could help out here, but I'm not sure I understand the history of the issue. Using the picture in post # 27, I am assuming the fitting you talk about being drilled out was the original fitting which would be represented by the black fitting on the end of the master cylinder? And that you sourced this current black fitting which now has an adaptor and then the 1/4 inch line. And that your concern is: that the current 1/4 inch line does not appear as original, cause you no longer have the 5/16 line in this spot?

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There are 2 fitting on the power brake master cylinder ( fill line and output ) , both are 5/16 flare. Post 27 shows the output. The adapter piece appears to be connected to a 5/16 flare line...the other end (???)....if it is a pipe fitting, it is not to be used in brake service. Get the whole plug for the master cylinder from the rebuilder (with a correct and serviceable 5/16 flare).

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Guest Minispdrcr

I am using a brake fitting to go from the 1/4 to 5/16 it has the opposite of a flare inside of it. Made specifically for that sort of application. I used Midwest Booster to do it as they came very highly recommended everywhere. He mentioned that the nut should work as the line screwed directly into it without the fitting... But like I mentioned the 5/16 line fitting would not fit, so I had to get the brake adapter to work.

Also, did the 55 have a brake return spring?

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