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1931 Dodge U124 Express Assembly


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Figured I would post some pictures of the start of assembly of my 31 U124 Express. Here are photos of the newly painted frame. I decided to use KBS frame black with black UV stable top coat. Turned out pretty good I think. Don't get it on you, they aren't kidding when they say it has to wear off. I will post progress, as progress is made.

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Looks great! That is one big frame. I know what you mean by not getting that paint on your skin. Nothing takes that off. Once while using that paint on a frame I was doing, I knew enough to use rubber gloves, BUT--it was a hot, humid day, I was wearing shorts and leaned into the frame paint with my shin. For 2 months, people thought I had some kind of weird tattoo or a strange black birthmark on the side of my leg. At least I didn't ruin a pair of long pants!

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This one was a unique case. The restoration on this truck was started in the 1980's by someone else. The frame had been blasted and painted with PPG and then was stored in a dry shop for almost 30 years. There was absolutly no peeling or issues with the paint except on the inside frame where some water had collected from a leak in the roof. An area about 5 x 8". What I did was use a scaler to remove the the rust there. I then scuffed the frame with a grey scotch pad. Used the KBS cleaner and etch on the bare spots here and there. The base was in good enough shape that I felt more damage would be done by blasting it again just to remove a solid and issue free base. So elected to go this topping route. I discussed with the folks from KBS a couple of times. The area I hit with the scaler was taken to bare shinny metal. The front end and springs I painted with KBS, were never painted 20 years ago, so I did blast them before paint. Just blew them off, wiped them down with some alcohol and painted. The stuff goes on great with a foam bush, but the brushes dont last long. The bristle brushes work best in my opinion, but you have to pickup a bristle now and then. Overall, I really liked the stuff. Wear long sleeves. I didnt for the first coat and people are still telling me my arms have grease on them.

One more item, I did top coat it with their UV stable top coat. So overall, three coats. 2 coats of the rust seal and one of the black top.

Looks great! Did you sandblast the frame or just use the rust killer and paint?
Edited by farrellg (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Just a little update. Got my build card from Chrysler Historical today. Truck was built 6/5/1930 and shipped to Rochester, NY. Dealer was E. J. Horton Inc. Both motor and key numbers match the build sheet. Although my truck has a pickup type box today, build card shows a 7' stake body. Have to decide which way to take this one on the restoration. But very happy all the numbers match.

1931 Dodge Express U124 Build Card.PDF

Edited by farrellg
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Just a little update. Got my build card from Chrysler Historical today. Truck was built 6/5/1930 and shipped to Rochester, NY. Dealer was E. J. Horton Inc. Both motor and key numbers match the build sheet. Although my truck has a pickup type box today, build card shows a 7' stake body. Have to decide which way to take this one on the restoration. But very happy all the numbers match.

Here is my version of the 7' stakebed. Is your cab a composite steel/wood construction? If so how is :othe wood in the cab?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Brief update on the U124 assembly. After looking for over a year for replacement front spring bolts and having no luck. I decided to make my own. I have not run a lathe in over 25 years, but I dusted off the skills and found an old lathe and made some. I had good patterns in the old worn out bolts. I don't have a mill so some of the work required hand work with a file. But all in all, I am happy with how they turned out. Cleaning up the original bolts. It appears the heads were coated in copper. Any one ever see that before?

As for my spring pins. I started with grade 8, 3/4" by 5 1/2 " bolts, shortened the threads, rounded the heads and cut down the heads to 1/4" thick. Drilled and tapped for grease fitting. In the pictures below, the original one is laying down in center, new ones standing and to left. If I make more, I don't think I will worry about a flat spot where the grease hole is as this was a pain to do without a mill. Oh well.

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Thanks. Now on to the shackles. Holes are egg shaped. I am reaming them to a larger size and sleeving them. Working on the first one now.

Where are you located. I am in Sacramento. I have a 1930 Series "E" 3/4 ton parts truck. Check the Master Parts book and see if my shackles will interchange with yours. I may be able to help you out.

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Located in New York. I checked the parts book. My shackles are part number 522267. There are two types, one with threaded screw hole and one with out for each side. Two of each are needed. There is a DB2, 3 or 4 on them. For some reason, I have two DB2, one DB3 and one DB4. My holes are not that bad, but bad enough to fix. I am guessing that any in service shackles will be about the same unless replaced shortly before being parked.

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  • 2 months later...

It's been a busy summer. I did not get as much as I would have liked on the truck. Last weekend, with our warm spell, I got the motor painted. Here are a couple shots. Used the KBS motor coater black and silver. I love this stuff. The 4 cylinder is the Plymouth Silverdome.

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Thanks for the kind words. Just wish I hat more time.

Ray, the only other products I have used over the years were things like Rustoleum. In that realm, it doesn't compare. The KBS is very hard to chip when hard and brushes very well. For things like frames and motors, it looks really good.

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  • 1 month later...

Not much progress with these temperatures in the shop. So research is the activity. I am trying to identify the proper brake, clutch and accelerator seals for the 1931 Express. This is a composite cab with the metal floor (U124). Looking for input and as always, pictures would help. Thanks.

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Thanks, I have those. What I am looking or is detail on where the pedals pass through the floor. Several places sell rubber boots for them that attach to the floor. How ever, none of my trucks had anything remaining. And I don't have any factory pictures that show any detail. I have to figure this out for the steel floor can and my two wood floor cabs. What I have is the owners manuals. They show the 1932 G44 with a ribbed mat. The 1931 U124 Express with a steel floor, with a diamond pattern. The parts book shows no seals for the pedals on any of the U133, U124 or G44.

Edited by farrellg (see edit history)
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Sorry I can't be much help as I've never seen any photos of seals, that is why I posted the info I did...

Great question btw as I've never seen this covered in any discussion for these trucks.

So, we know the Instruction Book for DA & U 124's clearly shows on page 12 there are no seals and the parts book doesn't list them...

Personally I haven't seen any evidence that shows they even came with them George. I understand why you would think they should have seals but could it be they came from the factory without them ? Not sure they were to concerned about fumes or sounds early on.

All the trucks that I have looked at in person and/or saved interior photos of that I believe to be original equipment all show openings or rough edges without any type of seal, for both wood and steel toe boards. There may be places that sell them, but are they original to the truck ? Personally I do not think they even came with seals but would love to find a definitive answer as well...

Maybe one of the guys who own early Graham Brothers literature will come forward and be willing to share better interior renditions that prove otherwise. Let's hope so..

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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I think you are probably right. I see nothing in the parts book for these models. And the owners manual does not show anything. I have seen some of the car owner manuals show the felt or rubber pad like is sold on the back page of the DB Club news. But this is absent on the truck pictures.

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  • 3 months later...

Warmer weather is causing some work to get done in the shop. Lots of sand blasting and painting parts. I do need some advice. My radiator is in good original shape. Question is, was the radiator honey comb natural colored or painted. Some of the early truck photos appear with some light and others dark.

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Going off of factory photos from the 31 and 32 showroom pics I'd say they were painted black. I have only seen one that appeared to be some sort of lighter color, or "natural" as you put it. The natural one is in the 2nd photo below, the rest are black.

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Please post pics of the progress as you get time.

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  • 1 month later...

Here are some updated pictures of the assembly. Test fitting the new running boards and splash guards before leaving for paint. Also some picture of the new wooden cab frame. Brakes and engine going back in this weekend. Radiator shroud and bumper have been sent to chrome. Macungie here I come.

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Looking good. I noticed your cab wood pieces. You must have good pattern pieces. Mine were so poor that I used pine to make trial pieces before I went to oak. I also made drawings to record dimensions for future information if others needed them.

Have you found your seat springs? I have my form done and will have the upholstery done soon. Did you see my reply to your previous post http://forums.aaca.org/f194/wanted-31-dodge-seat-springs-370858.html

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My pattern pieces were still in tact. One better than the other. One we think was original or at least factory. So primarily used that one for the pattern. We will see how it all fits together. I am keeping my old ones for reference. Never discard anything. Wish I had time for the mechanical drawings, but not this year.

Seat springs....... I sent the ones out for the 32 to be covered just as a driver. However, they are the same config of the 31. So plan to use for Macungie. I probably will do the same as your foam solution if I don't just buy the soldier courses of springs and make my own.

Here are the wheels back from paint. Look real good. I did learn something. Was going to Quik Poly spokes before paint to get rid of the wood grain in paint. Decided not to. Some have more grain than others. I think the look is more authentic this way. But one would get a more consistent look with the Quik Poly first. Just my opinion.

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Edited by farrellg (see edit history)
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Looks great George ! :cool:

What formula are you using for the yellow ?

Also, could you post a pic of your horn button along with the control levers ?

As for your welting question on the other thread :

Personally I have not seen it used between the apron and running boards or where the fenders meet the running boards, only between fenders and above apron. I would think they didn't use it between running boards and apron for drainage purposes but I could be wrong, I can only base my opinion from countless photos and trucks I've seen in person. If you find a more conclusive answer please let us know.

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Yellow is PPG Tangerine 83467. I picked out of the book based on some paint I found hidden on my wheels. It is not paint matched by any means. Just my personal eye and taste, or lack of. LOL. I believe this color is used on some school buses. It is much more yellow than actual tangerine colored. But I like it.

On the beaded fender welt. Have you seen it run along the fender all the way to the running board? Or stopping were the fender meets the splash apron at the rear hood latch?

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Since we have limited info to go off of I think the yellow you chose is spot on. I included a pic from the 1930 mailer that shows how close you are. What color will your body be ?

TCP has an old Ditz-Laq color chart that has "Algerian Blue IM 17" and seems to be the closest match for the body color if your trying to match the mailer. http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclim.html

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On the beaded fender welt. Have you seen it run along the fender all the way to the running board? Or stopping were the fender meets the splash apron at the rear hood latch?

It makes sense that it would run under the fender and curves over the splash apron and stops at the running boards. So, in my view the front fender should have a small piece, the top of the apron should have a full length piece from front fender to back fender, then the back fender should wrap around the entire rear fenders and stopping at the running boards. Just my opinion from other vehicles I've done. I've never seen welting around the running board edges, either at the apron or the fenders, only where the fenders meet the body.

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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  • 4 months later...

It's been awhile since I have posted. Things have been crazy around here since Detroit and Macungie. Just getting back in the shop this week. Here are the castings of the mirror bracket and bumper medallion backing plate. I have some machining to do, but very happy the way they came out. In the photo you will see the two bronze casts, the original (black) and the bottom one of the mirror bracket is wax.

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  • 3 months later...

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