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55 special 4 door fix up


NC-car-guy

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Fully over heated today, burst a water line going back to the transmission. Anyone got a good idea where to get a line that long? Also what temp thermostat and what pressure radiatorcapare appropriate?

Thanks

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Matt,

The coolant line to the Dynaflow heat exchanger on the '49 is just 5/8" heater hose. What's on the 55?

Also, someone on the forums mentioned 7# radiator cap rating...can't verify.

Geoff

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This might help. Someone else posted it on the forum a while back.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]239925[/ATTACH]

There is a second page for other models that has the footnote denoted by 't' for the oil cooler hose which is 74" for a 54 and 78" for 55. See my website for a quick and easy way to change out the hoses and a complete chart.

I drill a 1/8 hole in the flange of the thermostat to help purge air from the system, which if left in will result in some of the puking you described. Hopefully new parts and a clean radiator will solve the problem, otherwise consider a blown head gasket or cracked head letting combustion gases in the cooling system.

Willie

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That diagram is great, found the trans line was plumbed to the water neck and the heater line was on the pump, not sure how much difference it makes, but we'll see. The old thermostat was a 195 so down 13 degrees there. Willie, I didn't think about air in the system, I may premix some coolant/water and add directly to the block, under the thermostat before cranking her up.

Edited by wndsofchng06
misspelling (see edit history)
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I got the rear brakes adjusted and the hood latch installed. also figured out why the park lock wasn't working on the transmission. Turns out it was just the tab on the end of the column was bent! Horray for good news.

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Now I remember why I got out of old cars! She's still over heating, so radiator work..... She stopped charging, and now that I made it home she's stuck.... Some thing happened..... All four wheels are smoking, the brake pedal is solid, you can't push it at all, and the car won't move! UGH. :mad:

Edited by wndsofchng06
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Ah yes. Most of us have been there... Did you replace the flex lines on the brake system? If not I'd go there first. Interior deterioration can cause the fluid to "puddle" at the wheel cylinders and with heat expansion the brakes will drag more.

Did the battery die without the gen charging?

Have you installed any type of coolant filter at the return line on the radiator? Even a layer of panty hose over the inlet to the radiator will catch the big debris that clogs a radiator fast. If you have the radiator worked on make sure to put some sort of filter in. And always remember to clean it often.

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Thanks for the advice John! No battery didn't die, she just stayed on discharge with no accessories on. I'm going to see about getting the radiator rodded. I'm also going to replace ALL the brake lines... Does anyone carry a pre bent brake line set?

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Mathew,

If all 4 wheels are locked and pedal is hard, it sounds like you don't have slack on your master cylinder input. If the master cylinder plunger cannot return all the way to uncover the compensation port, fluid cannot return to the MC. Be sure there is slack or some slight travel before the plunger contacts and pushes the MC piston. If you have power brakes with booster, be sure that the input on booster is returning and leaving slack at the linkage.

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Matt

Don't give up now. You are really close to having a summer full of cruising! Tackle things one at a time. Get the radiator out first and let someone else be fixing it while you work out the brakes and charging issues.

Keep your head held high.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks buddy! Busy weekend coming. Charlotte auto fair, diabetes 5k, and going to Atlanta to pick up another 55 (titled and runs) but I'm buying as a parts car! I'll drop the radiator off Tuesday to be rodded. Thanks for the encouragement!

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If you do end up doing the steel part of the brake lines, Inline Tube has them. www.inlinetube.com

They list the '55 122" wheelbase set at $155, or $179 for stainless. Looks like it would be part no. BRB5501, but check with them.

I just did the brake hoses on the '51 - about $75 for the 3 hoses + hose retainer clips at NAPA.

Good luck on the radiator.

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If you do end up doing the steel part of the brake lines, Inline Tube has them. www.inlinetube.com

They list the '55 122" wheelbase set at $155, or $179 for stainless. Looks like it would be part no. BRB5501, but check with them.

I just did the brake hoses on the '51 - about $75 for the 3 hoses + hose retainer clips at NAPA.

Good luck on the radiator.

Thanks Eric! That's a good savings over Kanter

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so before I buy new brake lines..... I think I'm going to add this...

https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=132

If I do the disc brakes on the front too, any opinions on what proportioning valve to use??

I have emailed scarebird to ask for further details. I will post any info that they send....

Edited by wndsofchng06
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Ok... Here's the skinny on the brakes...

my email to them with answers inline

Hello,

I am considering ordering the master cylinder found here:

https://scarebird.com/index.<wbr>php?route=product/product&<wbr>path=59&product_id=132

The description leaves a lot to be desired. Is this a bolt on application? Does it come with the plugs for the top, tubing, and remote fill reservoir?

Yes, it is a bolt on application. No we do not supply the other parts as everyone seems to want something else.

I would also consider the disc brake conversion kit:

https://scarebird.com/index.<wbr>php?route=product/product&<wbr>path=59&product_id=57

Does this include a proportioning valve or have you recommended one?

Our kits do not have a proportioning valve, though we do supply information in the instructions.

for the rear disc brake conversion kit:

https://scarebird.com/index.<wbr>php?route=product/product&<wbr>path=59&product_id=64

I assume this would work on a 1955 Buick Special? What caliper and discs is it meant to work with?

Yes, the rear kit ELE will work on your car.

One last question, since you do not supply the remote reservoir kits, is there some standard one should know about your master cylinder to shop for those parts?

they are 1/4" inlet, so any brake fluid rated reservoir should work.

[h=1]Parts Lists[/h]Discs:

Front Buick 1965-70 (5 on 5” bolt center – Riviera, LeSabre, Electra)*

Rear 1976 Ford T-Bird (NAPA# 85646, 47 Wagner# BD60445,46)

These rotors are directional.

Your kit will use the following calipers and pads:

Front are astrovan awd calipers and pads as shown on website.

Rear are

1979-85 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers (NAPA# SE4690, SE 4689)

<wbr> <wbr> (Wagner# CR107094, CR107095)

Thank you!

Matthew Herman

1955 Buick Special

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  • 4 weeks later...

well due to some unforeseen circumstances, the brakes have been put on hold... the fuel pump has also breathed its last breath, so I think I'll be going electric completely and not just for booster.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the electric fuel pump on and boy does it help! The car has never started so easy! On a side note, I will be moving to Raleigh soon. Taking a job up that way and hopefully getting more land and a bigger garage!!!

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  • 5 weeks later...

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