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55 special 4 door fix up


NC-car-guy

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Starting my new thread on the fix up of my 55 special. you've all seen a basic photo on my introduction post under general buick. I will post more photos as I go. I've already gotten some great info from you all. For starters, does anyone know a place to order an original type key? It is missing the key and the service manual gives instructions for drilling the lock but I'd hate to ruin it. I have another I could replace it with, but again hate to drill the old one...

I want the car to stay stock for now. Maybe some A/C and an FM radio down the road. It was restored back in the 90's but hit a tree (or other very solid object) in 2007. I have measured the wheelbase, and cross measured the frame between each body mount. Seems like she's still straight, I just need to replace the rail from the engine cradle forward.

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You have a good frame and front end, it isn't that hard is it. Just getting a couple A frame swing sets and hoists huh? We are here to butt in anytime.:) I like the idea of keeping it original, if not keep all the old parts. TexasJohn

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Starting my new thread on the fix up of my 55 special. you've all seen a basic photo on my introduction post under general buick. I will post more photos as I go. I've already gotten some great info from you all. For starters, does anyone know a place to order an original type key? It is missing the key and the service manual gives instructions for drilling the lock but I'd hate to ruin it. I have another I could replace it with, but again hate to drill the old one...

I want the car to stay stock for now. Maybe some A/C and an FM radio down the road. It was restored back in the 90's but hit a tree (or other very solid object) in 2007. I have measured the wheelbase, and cross measured the frame between each body mount. Seems like she's still straight, I just need to replace the rail from the engine cradle forward.

A little work, but all you need is the key number and any locksmith can cut a new one. Just remove a door lock and read the number on the tang.

Willie

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HA! full body swap? Holy crap! That's a ton of work! plus the other frame would have to be sanded, undercoated, etc etc.... I don't know about all that

I realize now that you have already made your decision by catching up on you other thread, but I wanted to point out that body removal is not that bad if you consider only the things you must disconnect, mostly at the firewall. Wiring, hoses, cables and such. The shift linkage from column and unbolt the steering box from the frame. The steering box can remain attached to the column and guide it out when lifting the body, no need to pull steering column. I won't detail the entire procedure, just not as complicated as it first sounds. Naturally you would remove pitman arm and PS hoses also. TexasJohn

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{1314540 40 - 58 Most Convertible Models using 2" Square Pad and 15/16" hole As Req. Look for part# on your old mounts/pads. Body Mount Rubber Pad}

That's what I use (or similar) in that location. On one I stacked two pieces I cut out of an old radiator hose...just did no want to wait on parts.

Willie

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Yea. I measured the frame in X's off each body mount, measured the wheelbase, and on jackstands measured the "ride height" all as instructed by the collision shop. We believe the rest of the frame to be straight. I have a welder, just no good way to cut a straight line (4" angle grinder sucks!). I'm real scared if I go the frame swap route my B.A.D.D. will flare up!! I was hoping the rail could be done quick and cheap.........looks like I need to go buy a plasma cutter!!!

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I apologize for being late to this party....

From your pics, it looks daunting, but once all everything is stripped away from the damaged area

you should be able to do this job pretty well. I find that mig welding the "big" stuff like frames, tubing, etc

is much more manageable than say, trying not to blow holes in sheet metal!

I see you've removed the radiator support... do you have a another or will you repair that one?

Once your frame repairs are made, your radiator support will important in aligning the front sheet metal.

As far as repairing and aligning the frame horns ... maybe you don't need a plasma cutter

if you have a good air cut off tool with lots of discs ... you should able to prepare the damaged

area to accept some new rectangular tubing or "C" channel & cut your new repair pieces,

A chop saw is nice for clean, straight cuts to tubing and "C" channel, but you are not really going to cut a lot of it.

The air cut off tool can allow you to do micro-surgery to the pieces to get a close fit.

Having said all that ....$400-600 does not really seem too out of line for a professionally done job.

I say .... have at it...!

mike

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I apologize for being late to this party....

From your pics, it looks daunting, but once all everything is stripped away from the damaged area

you should be able to do this job pretty well. I find that mig welding the "big" stuff like frames, tubing, etc

is much more manageable than say, trying not to blow holes in sheet metal!

I see you've removed the radiator support... do you have a another or will you repair that one?

Once your frame repairs are made, your radiator support will important in aligning the front sheet metal.

As far as repairing and aligning the frame horns ... maybe you don't need a plasma cutter

if you have a good air cut off tool with lots of discs ... you should able to prepare the damaged

area to accept some new rectangular tubing or "C" channel & cut your new repair pieces,

A chop saw is nice for clean, straight cuts to tubing and "C" channel, but you are not really going to cut a lot of it.

The air cut off tool can allow you to do micro-surgery to the pieces to get a close fit.

Having said all that ....$400-600 does not really seem too out of line for a professionally done job.

I say .... have at it...!

mike

Thanks Mike!

Yes I have a replacement radiator support, radiator, and front body clip. I used my air cut off to remove what was left of the old rail already.... It does cut nicer that the 4" grinder cut off wheel, but not as fast! I'd be looking at $800 after towing for the fab guy to do it, it's just a driver so maybe doing it myself won't be so bad....

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Some thoughts...

A sawzall or even hacksaw will cut your frame. You need to be a REALLY good welder to do frame work.

I would recommend finding someone who can TIG weld that, rather than a 110 mig setup. Plus, if you are parting the other car, just cut that piece of the frame and use that piece. That way, you can cut it back to where you know there is no damage.

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I don't want to cut the the good frame in case ..

a) I sell the other car as a whole and not parts....it has a clear title

B) I can work on that frame little by little getting it just right until such a point that I can do a frame swap.

I want to get this one going fairly quick before BADD sets in!

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Wow, tha's a pretty clean looking interior...are the seats as nice as the door panels!!?? low mileage original? Re your question about the beauty rings and hub caps, those are indeed original and I love'em. Can't tell from where I'm sittin, do the rims still have the pin striping on them? Can't help you with the beauty ring but got a hub cap if you need it.

Also, I've got a 55 Special parts car and if you want to drive down to Athens and remove whatever it takes to get to that frame piece and cut it off, you're welcome to it. I've also got a chop saw (concrete saw with metal blade) but not sure if it will fit in close enough to cut that piece...we can try.

Come on down, I'll show you what the #54 strain of BADD looks like.

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They can still cut keys that old??? wow.

Not sure about 55's but with 54's all locks are keyed same. If you don't want to tear into you door, there is a number on the flat piece of the trunk lock that goes from the tumbler to the latch that has a number on it that a locksmith can use to make the key with. Again that is on 54's, I assume same holds true with 55's.

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Wow, tha's a pretty clean looking interior...are the seats as nice as the door panels!!?? low mileage original? Re your question about the beauty rings and hub caps, those are indeed original and I love'em. Can't tell from where I'm sittin, do the rims still have the pin striping on them? Can't help you with the beauty ring but got a hub cap if you need it.

Also, I've got a 55 Special parts car and if you want to drive down to Athens and remove whatever it takes to get to that frame piece and cut it off, you're welcome to it. I've also got a chop saw (concrete saw with metal blade) but not sure if it will fit in close enough to cut that piece...we can try.

Come on down, I'll show you what the #54 strain of BADD looks like.

Mr. Earl,

Thank you very much! The seats are nice but not original. The mileage may have rolled over. I was to understand it was restored in the 90's sometime and driven quite regular. I thought 55 specials had the full wheel covers.... with the litte red "buick" in the center circle. I like this cent cap and trim ring better though honestly. I like how the rim have the color of the car showing through. The rims no longer have the pin stripe. I have cut off tools, sawzall, etc. and I appreciate your offer. We may need to plan some time for that!! As for the keys, I was told the doors and ignition matched and the trunk and glovebox matched... but maybe that's incorrect. The truck lock is drilled out but I will pull a door lock and take to the last remaining old school lock smith in Charlotte! The car runs awesome, but the front seal appears to leak pretty good.... debating whether to fix that while it's this far apart, but you know how that goes you find something else, then something else and down the BADD spiral you go.....

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, finally got some motivation to get past my ADD and get something done on the car.... After getting prices on the frame rail repair, I ordered some metal stock and decided WTH, if I screw it up, I have a second frame in the garage right??? HA HA HA HA HA. I measured, level, square, etc a million times then finally struck a weld. There will be no photos of the welding detail as I'm sure I used an entire grinding wheel and spool of wire! However, it supports my big a$$ standing on it, so I think it's good. I just have to trim the excess, drill out the holes for inner fenders and sway bar, then remount the front cross piece...

First I removed the last of the bumper setup.

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Next I heated and straitened this rail...

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Playing with fit a little... I'm a very visual person when it comes to measuring progress

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Here you can see I left plenty of excess in case I need to "tweek" it

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The brake on this side was totally seized, so I replaced it (many curse words were used), will have to replace the A arm too.... it's bent ( I only noticed after all the measuring I did)

20130706_164737_zps09656268.jpg

That's all the progress for now guys!

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Guest William Buick

just purchased 57 special and need to find how to repair speedometer the red is all the way out and does not work any one know how are anywher to repair thanks william...

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Well ya'll, she's tacked back together, I will do final welding later but for now it's all tacked in place.....

This wasn't easy....

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Here's what it should look like....

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Not quite a "u"

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Pardon my lack of a nifty press.... I used this will some square steel tubing behind it

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Here I notched the metal and did some final flattening on the bench then welded the notches up.

20130707_154021_zpsb2081965.jpg

measured and cut off the excess rail...

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Fit the new piece and tack it on

20130707_162012_zpsfc576ac7.jpg

Obligatory refit of the inner fender setup....

20130707_162943_zps0cf35a4c.jpg

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Now the motivation is kicking in....

20130708_194457_zps463a9612.jpg

20130708_194504_zpsd40850bd.jpg

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You can see it needs some lining up..... giant gaps!!

The bottom of my replacement driver's side fender is rotted out. The bottom of the wrecked fender (see original photos at start of post) is still good with no rust....

20130708_195941_zps0c7c1ba4.jpg

Question is.... should I try to fix the skin with some sheet metal or do I clip the whole bottom of the fender and swap.....????

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Oh and for all those that are wondering why not paint it.... right now I am just checking basic fit.... It will come all back apart and be finished appropriately. I'd rather do all the rough fitting while I don't mind scratching, kicking, and tapping with a hammer!

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Oh and for all those that are wondering why not paint it.... right now I am just checking basic fit.... It will come all back apart and be finished appropriately. I'd rather do all the rough fitting while I don't mind scratching, kicking, and tapping with a hammer!

Exactly!

You have more to be concerned about than rust.

You have good air flow through the hood right now ;)

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Exactly!

You have more to be concerned about than rust.

You have good air flow through the hood right now ;)

Yea one hood is crunched and this one was all rotted on the front edge, so I cut it and welded a bar to hold it solid. Unfortunately both hoods are damaged in the same place... Not sure what I'm going to do about it...

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Yea one hood is crunched and this one was all rotted on the front edge, so I cut it and welded a bar to hold it solid. Unfortunately both hoods are damaged in the same place... Not sure what I'm going to do about it...

That looks like a cut, grind, fit, weld repair. I stick to my first statement. Find some sheet metal and take your time. You will be suprised what you can do with hammers and dollies and vices. Been there, done that! Matt

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