Water distribution tube

Hi guys!

I think I need a new water distribution tube (new thermostat and hoses, overheats at about 5 miles). I've been looking at multiple threads on this, and I have a few questions that you may be able to answer.

1. Would pulling the head give me any better access to it? (I hope to do this without pulling the engine).

2. After reading multiple threads about different removal tools, I've got a plan, but would like to know the diameter of the holes so that I have some idea how to fabricate the hook.

(1950 Windsor)

Any help will be appreciated.

Hi guys!

I think I need a new water distribution tube (new thermostat and hoses, overheats at about 5 miles). I've been looking at multiple threads on this, and I have a few questions that you may be able to answer.

1. Would pulling the head give me any better access to it? (I hope to do this without pulling the engine).

2. After reading multiple threads about different removal tools, I've got a plan, but would like to know the diameter of the holes so that I have some idea how to fabricate the hook.

(1950 Windsor)

Any help will be appreciated.

The tube is located in the block, not the head. You gain access to by removing the water pump and inserting your hook into the tube cavity in the front of the block. The problem now is how to withdraw the tube, which is obviously the same length as the block, out of the front of the engine with the radiator etc. in the way. Not being familiar with your particular vehicle, you might get away with it by removing the radiator and part of the grill to give you the necessary clearance, otherwise it`s out with the engine.

Having said all of that I would first establish that the radiator is not at fault and the block is clear, you mention thermostat and hoses but what condition is the radiator in and have you given the block a thorough flush out ?

Yes, tube is behind the water pump, and any replacement must be for the Chrysler Desoto six cylinder as the Dodge / Plymouth tubes are shorter.

I am inclined to think that you can remove it once the radiator is out, and not have to remove grille or engine. But I am not positive about that. I would consider having the radiator cooked out before pulling the tube. Of course once the radiator is out it you have done half the work of replacing the tube anyway. Often after 60 years the tubes are bad though. JMO.

I had luck pulling a tube out with this tool. I believe someone posted that if the head is removed you may be able to go through some of the head bolt holes in the block and help the tube along with a slim punch or something of the sort.

The tube shown is structurally in good shape but was kinked when installing it because there was so much corrosion between the rear cylinder and the block the tube couldn't fit. Whoever drove the tube in kinked it.

After removing this distribution tube all freeze out plugs were removed and I used long pieces of steel rods and flat bar to scrape out the corrosion, the new tube slid right in.

A trick I just learned and used on a 36 straight 8 that I just assembled is removing all manifold studs and in my case head studs and running lengths of cable powered by a drill motor through all coolant passages, you would be amazed at where the end of the cable ends up sometimes and the piles of rust removed.

Good luck,

Jay

Thanks everyone for the information and advice: I've got an idea how to proceed now. The picture was especially helpful.

I'll be back in (hopefully) a few weeks after I've had a chance to tear into it!

If you have a temp sensor test the temp of the engine while running. If the tube is shot the coolant will stream right up the front of the engine, the front of the engine will be cool and the back of the engine hot. If the tube is doing its job the engine will be more or less the same temp, maybe a small difference front to rear.

The difference is marked enough you can feel it with your hand on the head.

Mopar #954281 water distribution tube 1937-53 DES,Chrys 25 8/8 inches long used/6 cylinder. I have one NOS if needed. Years ago I used a slide hammer that had a long shaft and a hook on the end to remove one from my 48 Dodge. This was after the bare block was cleaned and then I had it on end and had dumped in ATF and let it soak for a few days to make it easier to pull. It came out in one piece.

Rusty: I'll try the temp feel thing as soon as I get it running again (no fuel issue cropped up yesterday). Great idea!

I'm still hoping NOT to have to remove the engine to get the thing out, assuming I DO need to replace it.

Marty: I'll PM you if I find I need the tube, and thanks!

The tube will come out with out pulling the engine using a good puller. Just did a 1950 Chrysler Straight "8".

Bob

Bob: Thanks for the words of comfort- an 8 is probably twice as hard as a 6; or something like that, due to the extra length!

Bob

Rusty:

Got her running today (won't bore you with that story!), took her for about a 1/2 mile drive: enough to get her warm, but not hot. Felt the head, and it felt slightly cooler at the rear than at the front. Is that any indication that the the tube is ok, and I need to look elsewhere? (Or should I let it get hotter and check again?)

Thanks!

Bob

It sounds like the tube is ok, if it was shot the engine would be hot at the back and cool at the front. Have you checked the rad? Is it clean, not plugged with bugs and dirt? You can blow it out from behind with an air hose. Is it clean inside? I had a problem with a similar car, a previous owner left the rad cap off and mice built nests in the top of the rad. It would idle OK but overheat as soon as it hit the road. I spied some debris made of shredded paper towels in the rad and fished them out, but in the end had to take the rad off, turn it upside down and flush it with a hose. Enough shredded paper came out to make a pile the size of a football. No more overheating after that.

You may also need to flush the cooling system. The engine water jacket can get full of rust mud and silt over the years.

Thanks for the reply, Rusty! Thats all good stuff that I was hoping to hear. The radiator comes off when I get back from vacation in a couple of weeks. I'll post back as soon as I've investigated.

Love the mouse nest story! I have a few of those of my own (I live in the woods, and those destructive little buggers have destroyed LOTS of my stuff), but I've never had them in a cooling system. I guess there's a first time for everything.

Removed radiator and backflushed. Got lots of scale out of the top section. Removed water pump and backflushed block, also had block petcock drain and coolant temp gauge probe removed. Had real good flow, and water came out clean. Replaced new 180 degree thermostat with original stat (I tested it in boiling water, and it opens at 160 degrees). I'm not sure if I solved the problem yet, as I still need to install my new coolant temp gauge (original is dead), and I have to replace the brakes before I can take it up to speed on the highway, but. . . . . I can drive it around at 30-35 miles per hour on my lane for a half hour without blowing the cap. . . .which is a good sign, because it was blowing the cap before after less than a mile of low speed driving. I'll report back after I take it for a drive at speed. Thanks to all who have responded so far!