Power seat question

So...the guys who reassembled my car before I got it (new frame) pinched the main cable (#14593) going to the fore and aft seat motor. It was pinched between the seat frame and floor, so when I moved the seat all the way up to have the soft top checked out the connectors under the seat got yanked, so I could not get the seat back (I looked like a clown trying to drive with the wheel in my chin). I let the guy who does some repairs for me take a crack at a diagnosis since I was booked solid all afternoon and we did not yet know about the wires self-disconnecting. He promptly decided it was the relay... no, it's the switch...no, it must be the motor..you get the picture, right? Now, both relays are totally disconnected and I have to redo the wiring, which really should not be a big deal once I get the undercoating off the wires and terminals.

So, here's the question: My electrical schematic (Page FS872) clearly shows two circuit breakers behind the dash, one for the windows and one for the seats. Casco's website says the breakers are "2/car". I found a third, which appears to protect the grounds to the motors, screwed to the floor pan above the seat angle motor. The schematic lists it with the same number as the two under the dash (14526). I've never seen a circuit breaker in a DC ground wire before, but that doesn't mean much, there are lots of things I haven't seen. I'll assume it's correct and just try to hook everything up. If there are two wires with the same color and circuit number, does it make a difference which relay they get attached to?

If I unbolt the driver's side seat mounts, can I get the end of the seat up high enough to reconnect the wires at the motor?

Let me add one more question: What are the terminal assignments on the relays so I can bench test them?

Your car has two different circuit breakers. The two under the dash are rated at 30 amps and the third is rated at 15 amps. 14526 is Ford's basic part number for circuit breakers. Ford uses prefixes and suffixes to identify a particular year and model Ford. The 30 amp are B6A 14526A, the 15 amp attached to the seat relay is C2VY 14526A. Since all DC motors need to be grounded to function, the purpose of this relay is to open if a short is sensed in either seat motor. The wires numbers just identify the color of the wire and each wire must be attached must continuous from each switch to it respective relay and motor. It's just as easy to "bench test" the relays in the car, since the seat is a bench seat. Yes, the wires under the seat can be re-connected by lifting. Might be a good time to lubricate the seat track and motor screws with

Lubri-plate.

BTW how old are you?

Bob Hartig

McLean, VA

Thanks for responding. I ended up taking all the wires off both relays, cleaning all the undercoating off the wires and bands, and starting from scratch with my trusty electrical manual. Everything works, and I found one of the seat frame bolts (studs are long gone) was so long it was causing the seat to bind. When I get some help to lift the seat out, I'll remove it again and lube everything under there.

BTW, I'm 10 years older than my 12 volt 'bird

David, you're welcome ... If you remove the seat back from the cushion at the hinge points you may be able to take it out solo.

Bob Hartig

McLean, VA

So.... How is the Bird doing now? You mentioned getting a frame replaced. Got any ideas on where I could locate one? In a bit of a jam until I can find one.

By the way, if you ever want to conceal the rust on a frame, undercoating does an excellent job!

Thanks, CMW

I got the car with the replacement frame. No undercoating, though. It was bead blasted and powder coated and it looks new, but it could have been a really good rehab. Since I fixed the seats, I pulled the dash, replaced the dash harness with a NOS unit, replaced the front spindles with Lincoln Versailles units, replaced the entire steering linkage, changed the radiator and refurbished all the gauges and switches. The previous owner did the undercoating camouflage on the underside of the body and the engine compartment. I have to pull the engine to clean the engine room.

I am getting many conflicting recommendations with regards to what circuit breakers I need when wiring the power seat in my 1955 Thunderbird. I do not have power windows. I have been told by suppliers that I need a 40 amp breaker on the fire wall and a 20 amp under the dash. Does this sound right? I have a 6 volt system. Thanks!

Hi Armand,

Check the second response in this thread. It lists the circuit breakers that are required for your application.

Regards,

Lew Bachman

1957 T-Bird Colonial White