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1952 Buick Super


2Buicks

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My dad's first Buick was a 1950 Buick 4dr Special. I was old enough to help my father work on the car. I remember taking cross country trips in the summer with the car. My father liked Buicks and purchased three more - 1958 Special, 1963 Wildcat, and 1974 Electra.

My first Buick I purchased in 1973 is a 1969 Riviera (I still have it). I have wanted to get an older Buick like the 1950. My son and I found a nice 1952 Buick Super in Cleveland, OH and made a three day cross country trip this past year to pick up the car from a private party. It is in great shape with no missing parts. It has been garaged with no rust except for some pitting on the chrome. I have the original owner’s books and records. The car is original with everything working. The paint shows one re-spray.</SPAN> Original interior including the Mohair headliner is in great shape.

Plans are to have my son cut and buff the paint, as it shows to be dull and oxidized, general cleaning up and polishing, replacing rotted gaskets and rubbers, and finally enjoy driving her with my family and grandkids.

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Guest shadetree77

Welcome to the forum 2Buicks! That is a beautiful automobile. I love that paint color. Do you know if that is the original color or was it re-sprayed in something different? Do you have any pictures of the engine and interior? I'm looking forward to hearing more about this one.

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Thank you Ben and Robert for the welcome.

Robert, no its not the original paint, I am not 100% sure it is a Factory Buick color, but I am sure it is a GM one.

I can post pictures of where they masked off and the original shows through. The paint is an older respray, as my son is in the process of cutting and polishing it. He says its old and very well cured. He also says it has quite a bit of oxidation and doesn't know if it ever was cut and buffed when they painted. I laugh as he complains how BIG the Buick is.... he is used to newer smaller cars.

I will also take some pictures of the Interior and engine compartment. It has the Fireball Straight 8 and runs like a top. We believe it has only 65K+ miles but can't confirm.

Thanks again for the welcome. I have been lurking on the forum for a while now and this is a great place.

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Thank you for all the great comments and warm welcome.

I am switching my efforts from the car's exterior to start working on minor problems I have identified. My list includes checking out why the defroster is not working, why the trunk and interior dome lights don't illuminate (bulbs are OK), and why the gas gauge always shows 1/2 tank. I have a 52' Buick wiring diagram, so I will be checking out the circuits and any switches. I think the only way I can check the gas gauage is to drop the fuel tank and pull the fuel tank sender out. If anyone has ideas on the fuel gauge reading error, I would appreciate.

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Guest shadetree77

Wow. She's a beauty! Thanks for the additional pictures. Whoever did the re-paint must have tried their hand at re-painting and re-stickering the engine too. Some of those decals are in some odd places. She sure is beautiful though. I love those pictures above where the chrome bumpers are reflecting that deep blue sky. You should drive it every chance you get! I know I would. :)

On the gas gauge, you are correct about having to drop the tank to test the sending unit. The good news is that dropping the tank is very easy. Even easier if you have a jack to put underneath the tank to lower it down. One thing you could try before you drop the tank would be to check that you have a good ground on the fuel line. The sending unit grounds via the metal fuel line that comes out of the tank and clips to the frame rail. If you don't have a good ground to that fuel line, your gauge will behave erratically. That happened to me a while back and fellow forum member Mike(buick5563) helped me out on that one. Keep us updated and enjoy that Buick!

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I noticed some color change in the door jamb, does that tell the story on original paint?

Dale in Indy,

The picture of the door jamb is to show what the original color was and after the re-spray. There are other areas on the car I can take pictures that show the two different colors. Those areas are in the trunk and on the lower surface of the fenders.

2Buicks

Edited by 2Buicks (see edit history)
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Wow. She's a beauty! Thanks for the additional pictures. Whoever did the re-paint must have tried their hand at re-painting and re-stickering the engine too. Some of those decals are in some odd places. She sure is beautiful though. I love those pictures above where the chrome bumpers are reflecting that deep blue sky. You should drive it every chance you get! I know I would. :)

On the gas gauge, you are correct about having to drop the tank to test the sending unit. The good news is that dropping the tank is very easy. Even easier if you have a jack to put underneath the tank to lower it down. One thing you could try before you drop the tank would be to check that you have a good ground on the fuel line. The sending unit grounds via the metal fuel line that comes out of the tank and clips to the frame rail. If you don't have a good ground to that fuel line, your gauge will behave erratically. That happened to me a while back and fellow forum member Mike(buick5563) helped me out on that one. Keep us updated and enjoy that Buick!

Thanks,

I saw your website about what you went through to solve your fuel indication problem. I had a similar problem on my 69' Riviera fuel pump that is located in the fuel tank. I ended up adding a second ground between the fuel tube and the body. Thank goodness I did not have to drop the tank since there is an access panel in the trunk floor to get to the fuel pump and sender.

2Buicks

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I am trying to locate some used and/or replacement parts (NOS). What are some good websites to use. I have viewed/searched Cars, Inc, Steelrubber.com, Buickfarm.net, Bobsautombilia.com, clasicbuicks.com, e-Bay, and Amazon websites.

2Buicks

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Guest chevy_dude97

defroster is not working, why the trunk and interior dome lights don't illuminate (bulbs are OK)

First off, beautiful car! What a great find! Welcome welcome to the forum!

On to your issues... First thing is first your defrost/rear heat share the same fuse. If one works and the other doesn't test the blower located in the pass side air duct. Be very carful as there is a connector on the power line to the fan(do not mistake it for a simple butt and cut the wire) You can then test it right there by applying 6v using a jumper or something creative.

As for the interior lights try checking the door switches first. I used electric cleaner and cycled with my hand for a few minutes and got mine to function properly.

And the same goes for the trunk light, mine sticks sometime and requires coercing....

I too noticed the top stickers and the fact there are 2 stickers on your oil canister, could you possibly post up some close up engine bay pics?

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Thank you for all the great comments.

Here are two close up pictures of the oil filter. You can see from the second picture the top decal is loose on the left hand side. Please let me know which location is correct for the '52 Buick Super. The top decal calls out "...AC P-127 Element" while the lower decal calls out "...AC F-127 Element".

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Edited by 2Buicks (see edit history)
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Guest shadetree77

Hmmmmm....when I click those attachment links I get this: "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator". Something must have went wrong when you posted them. Anyway, here are a few reference pictures I have showing the correct locations of the engine decals. For the most part it shows the correct colors as well. Except for the oil filler cap is not supposed to be black. The oil filter can is NOT engine color. It is bright orange on top with a genuine blue color on bottom. Please note also that one of the engine stickers is missing on this particular engine. It is missing the rectangular "This Engine Is Equipped With Hydraulic Lifters" decal. Apparently, different Buick plants placed that sticker in different locations over the years but from my research I believe it was most commonly placed where the yellow arrow is in the photo. Let me know if you have any other questions about engine colors or decals. I've done a lot of research on those lately as I am currently in the process of restoring my engine compartment.

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Thank you for your comments.

I don't have any records of what may have been done in the engine compartment from prior owners. I updated the pictures from my earlier posting to show the oil filter and added a left and right side view of the engine compartment. The VIN ID indicates this car was manufactured in Kansas City, KS.

I will provide pictures later after I take off air filter to better show valve cover decals.

2Buicks

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Guest shadetree77

No problem. The pictures are working now. Based on what I'm seeing there the bottom sticker is the original and is in the correct place. That top one that is peeling looks to be a replacement type. Wonder why they would have stuck that on there and left the original? What does that writing say on top of your air cleaner? Something about trans. fluid maybe? Interesting place to put a note! :) Also, do you have a close-up picture of that small sticker on the air cleaner? There's not supposed to be one there and I'm curious as to what it says. I'll point it out in a picture below.

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I noticed your engine installation has the glass bowl gas filter entering the carburator. Was this standard on the 1952 Buick. My 1952 Super does not have one. Looking at my car, it does not show/look like the fuel lines have been modified.

2Buicks

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Guest shadetree77

Actually those pictures aren't mine. I found those on the internet and I just use them as reference photos for the decals. You are right though, glass bowl filters did not come on 1952 Buicks. They used a little device called a "Moraine" filter. Here's a picture of one(yellow arrow). They are REALLY hard to find.

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Guest shadetree77

Hmmmm....they must have changed that for '52. The service manual doesn't mention a separate filter for the two different carbs. It describes only the Moraine type being used on both carbs.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I took some additional pictures of my engine compartment to better show the decals. As I work on the engine I will correct any decals that are not correct.

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I have also found I am missing the fuel filter at the entrance to my Carter carburetor. I bought a Moraine fuel filter (#175) on eBay. I will be installing the fuel filter soon. I looked up the type I needed to install and hope this is the correct model. Can anyone let me know what the correct model # should be?

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I am going to order new vent air ducting because I found some tears in the fabric that can not be fixed. I went online and found Bob's Automobilia and Old Buick Parts - Cars, Inc carry replacement ducting. When I measured my vent ducts, they are 5 1/4" dia. The duct size I found at the two websites were 5" and 5 3/8" diameter. I assume the 5 3/8" will work for my Buick, however, but before I purchase the replacement ducting can anyone let me know what they did in replacing their ducting. I have included some pictures, including the rubber piece on the inlet vent ducts I want to replace. Has anyone found these inlet rubber piece stapled to the inlet duct?

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I found some fuel wetting on the bottom portion of my double action fuel pump. I still need to check the fuel lines to make sure they are not leaking. In researching what replacement fuel pumps/kits are available, I have seen two different upper body styles (vacuum portion). Can someone tell me me what are the difference. My VIN number is an early '52 Buick Super. Is my model a left over from the '51 Buick production model. The one I have is shown below.

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Guest shadetree77

Good to hear from you again. Glad to know you are making progress. If you need more help with the decal placement later on just let me know. I'd be glad to assist. On the fuel filter, unfortunately, the one you have purchased is slightly different than the original one. It is a little newer. The Moraine part number for the correct filter is #100. It is basically the same concept except for a design change. The original filter DID NOT come apart so that you could clean it. Instead, it had a tiny screw at the very bottom that you opened to "drain the water out". You could also spray some gas through there with the screw out to flush it out a little. Yours is a newer one that comes apart so that you can clean it and replace the filter element. I seriously doubt anyone will ever notice the difference and, in fact, the one you bought is much more serviceable than the originals so I would just go with it.

Seems to me I remember the passenger tube being bigger than the drivers side tube in order to house the defroster motor. That was a while back. I'll measure them for you today if possible. You can indeed buy that rubber seal that's stapled on the tube. I got mine at Bob's Automobilia. They call it a "Gravel Deflector Seal 6' Long Part #GD-413A $18.50". It comes in a 6 foot long piece and you cut it to size.

I don't really know anything about the different models of fuel/vacuum pumps throughout the years. I recently got my pump completely rebuilt and restored through Then and Now Automotive. They did a great job bringing it back to life. If you want to compare pictures between my pump and yours I posted some pictures of my rebuilt pump a few posts back on my thread.

Edited by shadetree77 (see edit history)
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Robert,</SPAN>

Thank you for your thread update.

I reviewed your comments on Russell’s 52 Buick, 41D Special (Me and My Buick). You posted a picture under Moore's Salvage Auto the shows a fuel pump that looks like your rebuilt pump. It has the newer vacuum top than the one I have on my 52 Super. In the 52 Buick manual (Section 3-18), it talks about a DG model (Series 40-50) and a DH (Series 70). </SPAN>The vacuum sections of both type pumps are identical. </SPAN></SPAN>The only difference is in the fuel pump mechanics plus the DH model includes an air dome on the outlet port. </SPAN>The air dome minimizes flow variations experienced with a two-cycle pump stroke and increases the pump output. I included a picture of the model 9762 with an air dome.</SPAN></SPAN>

I would like to know if the model DH can be used on the Series 40 and 50 Buicks. The part I like is possibly adding the air dome to the fuel outlet to minimize the stated flow variations mentioned in the manual.</SPAN></SPAN>

Don (2Buicks)

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Fellow pre-unleaded fuel Buick owners,

In researching what fuel pump I should have for my '52 Buick Super, I read some other threads posted on AACA. The one I thought was interesting was Dynaflash8’s comment on Robert’s thread (shadetree77) where he discussed the vapor lock problems on a hot day with Ethanol fuel. He added an electric fuel pump to overcome the vapor lock issue. He also uses Starbrite Startron Fuel Treatment to neutralize and prevent damage to the fuel system, fuel pump and carburator from using Ethonal based fuel.

In operating my ’52 Buick Super, what other unknowns/problems do I need to be concerned with using the unleaded fuel with the ’52 Buick straight eight engine? Please identify any additives you have successfully used to protect the engine valves, etc.

Thank you in advance,

Don (2Buicks)

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Guest shadetree77

Don,

I just wanted to thank you for bringing this fuel pump issue up. I never would have realized my mistake otherwise. I am currently talking to Mike at Then and Now Automotive to try to work out a deal to get me the correct pump. This little dilemma of mine has answered your question above though. You asked if a type DH could be used on a Special. Apparently it can be IF you get the correct pump arm for your engine installed. Mike did this on my pump and said that it would have worked for my engine. He even told me that he could sell me an air dome if I needed it.

The electric pump setup that Dynaflash mentioned is actually quite a popular modification to make on old cars. It can be hidden back on the frame rail by the gas tanks and wired to a hidden toggle switch under the dash. You can flip it on when you experience vapor lock on a hot day. You can also use it to prime your fuel system after the car has been sitting for awhile and all the gas has evaporated out of the carburetor bowl. It's almost a must have addition when using Ethanol fuel. If you can locate a gas station that sells Ethanol free fuel I highly recommend you spend the extra money to buy it. I'll include a link to a site that you can type in your zip code and it will pull up a list of stations around you that sell it. I am lucky enough to have one a few miles from me that sells it so that is all I use.

I have heard good things about Ethanol fuel additives. I have never used one because I use Ethanol free fuel. The only additive I put in is Marvel Mystery Oil. I dump in about a 1/4 cup with each tank fill up. It is said to clean and lubricate the fuel system and cylinders. Marvel won't help with Ethanol problems though.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

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  • 1 month later...

1952 Buick Super Updates.

Fender Edge Bumper, Grill Bumper Pads, and Vent Ducting Replacement

I have been correcting minor problems found on my 1952 Buick Super. All four hood side to fender ledge bumper pads have been replaced, along with the hood to grill bumper pads. I was trying to see if this would help better align the hood and eliminate some of the hood to fender contact. It did improve the spacing somewhat but not as much as I was hoping for. I have included some pictures of the new bumper pads. The one picture shows a comparison of the old and new bumper grill pad.

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In addition to replacing bumper pads, I also fixed my defroster fan ground. The ground wire was broken off outside the vent duct and I had to go inside the vent duct to replace the wire on the defroster motor. In so doing, the original fabric ducting had to removed and replaced with new ducting. The Buick part # 1340398 indicated the ducting is 5.38" OD x 15 3/4" long. As it turns out, this duct length has to be for the Roadmaster because the duct length I needed was less than 10''. I have included pictures of the completed project.

Lesson learned in replacing the fabric ducting. The new ducting wire is of a heavier gauge than the original fine wire and the fabric is a rubberized heavier material. The heavier gauge wire was difficult to insert inside the vent duct. Once I got the fabric/wire started inside the duct I used a wood dowel to push material deeper into the duct about an inch. Since the wire is of a heavier gauge, no gluing was required. Even though, the replacement fabric ducting does not look like the original, I believe the replacement ducting is stronger and more durable.

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I also purchased the replacement driver’s side fabric ducting. Just like on the passenger’s side, the Buick part # 1340849 indicated the ducting is 5.0" OD x 18 1/2" long. Again, this has to be for the Roadmaster because the duct length I needed was about 12’’ for my Buick Super. I have provided a comparison of the old and new ducting and measured length.

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Edited by 2Buicks (see edit history)
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Electric Clock Repair

I have been busy repairing and replacing items on my dash. The electric clock did not work so I took it apart to examine its internals. My clock is a “New Haven” style and was in good shape and just needed cleaning. I used rubbing alcohol and compress air to clean the mechanism several times. After many repeats, I was able to get the mechanism work continuously. I also sprayed an electric toner cleaner on the mechanism to make it operate better. To make sure the clock was going to keep time and operate continuously; I hooked up my battery charger (set to 6 volts) to the power and ground terminals. After a couple of tries and an additional cleaning, I was able to keep the clock operating and maintaining time for two days.

It was now time to reinstall the clock. I followed the instructions outlined in Section 10-64 of the Buick manual. I disconnected the battery ground, verified the 3 amp fuse was good, hooked up the clock light and the power wire, and then reinstalled the clock in the dash. I took the ground cable and touched the battery post once. I listened to hear if the clock rheostat kicked in to start the clock. It did, and it was now working again and keeping time.

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Electrical Heater Switch and Underseat Heater Fan

My other challenge was why did someone add a toggle switch under the dash, next to the speedometer trip reset knob, and what was it for? I had asked the previous owner if he knew what the switch was for and he did not know. He indicated it was like that when he bought the car and he never figured out what it turned on or off. After a time consuming effort trouble shooting a couple of other electrical problems, I discovered what it was for. It provided power to the passenger under seat heater fan. However, the problem was the guard cover over the under seat heater was pushed in and bending with the fan blades. After I freed up the guard and fan blade interference, I was able to get the heater fan working. Thank goodness no previous owner burned up the fan motor or did they. The next challenge was why was the toggle switch hooked up to the heater fan and not the heater control switch on the dash? With the ground battery cable disconnected again, I removed the heater switch. There were no wires connected to the switch terminals and one of the terminal connectors for the resister was loose. I had purchased a replacement switch on eBay and tested both switches with an ohm meter and found the original switch was not operating correctly. I have installed the replacement heater switch and connected the wires from the old toggle switch. The dash heater switch now controls the under seat heater fan. For curiosity, I took apart the suspected switch and found the internal swiper plate was not making contact with one side of the resistor terminal connector. This was due to the contact point recessed deeper into the backing material. I was able to add solder to the internal contact and filed smoothed so the swiper would make contact when the switch was rotated. I now have a spare heater switch (I think). Included below are pictures of the two heater switches. A small screw driver was used to point to the bad terminal. My new concern is why the two position heater switch only operates the fan in high speed and not low speed, as described in Sections 11.1 and 11.2 of the Buick Shop Manual. Maybe my heater fan motor has the low speed circuit burn out and caused the original switch to go bad.

Can anyone provide some additional insight?

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Edited by 2Buicks (see edit history)
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