1952 dodge wayfarer

hi, i just became the proud owner of a 1952 Dodge Wayfarer, by luck, it fell into my hands, its missing the battery and positive cable, other than that the car is complete. i would appreciate any advise. i have tried to turn the flathead 6 by hand but no luck, i removed the head and oil pan, other than a little bit of rust on the top of the valves, it seams to look fine. my question is, if i try connecting the battery, is there a chance i would damage anything, thanks for

Not going to hurt, it will either turn over or not. Remember that this is 6 volt positive ground vehicle. Be sure you have 6 volt battery cables. Connect the ground cable to the engine block.

If you have the head and oil pan off, why not try soaking the cylinders for a day or two in transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil? If you can't turn it by hand, it's stuck. By soaking, maybe you can get the thing working without damaging anything.

thank you for your response, i used marvel mystery oil, transmission oil and dw-40 through the sparkplug holes before i took off the head off and let it soak for about a week with no luck, now that i have the head off i will soak it in the oils for a couple of days, thankyou, im also going to get the 6volt battery and cable and give it a shot, thanks again for your advise

With penetrant in the cylinders, get a log smaller than the bore and lightly tap it with a hammer on top of the pistons,making sure it's out of gear and the starter bendix isn't hanging up,of course. you should start to see some movement and rust mixing in with the penetrant.Keep going to all the cylinders,some will rotate the cramk backwards, until it all moves freely.

thankyou Dave M., i appreciate your advise, I'll try that, so far its seams stuck, maybe the bendix is a possibly stuck, I'll check that, thanks again

I had a 47 chevy with the same problem and it turned out to be the lifters on the last cylinder had rusted in the bores from rain water dripping out the cowl vent hose on the engine.

pete

You should also know that on old Chrysler products, the left side wheels have left hand threads on the wheel bolts. Sometimes the hubs get changed over the years and you get left hand threads on the right side too. Or right hand threads on the left side. So the first time you take the wheels off be careful. If the bolts are hard to turn try them the other way. The nuts or bolts are supposed to be marked if you can find the marks.

Thanks Rusty O'Toole, I found out the hard way, since she has quite a bit of rust, I thought the lug nuts where rusted also, I sweatn for a couple hours before I figured it out, wished I would've visited the forum sooner, thanks for the message, still appreciated

hi guys, i'm looking for a little more advice, i have tried soaking the pistons on my 52 wayfarer and haven't had any luck turning the motor , i used a block in the pistons and tried hammering them loose but it hasnt worked, i also hooked up the battery and tried turning the starter but it just clicks and i feel a vibration on the pistons as if they want to move, i havnt removed the starter but thats my next step jn case the bendix is stuck, as i was told that might be the problem, but my nieghbor, a retired cop car mechanic doesn't think that's it, i would appreciate any advise thanks, frank

My suggestion is ATF Acetone mix. Rock the car in 2nd gear.

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various

penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate

this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on

rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They

arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being

the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted"

environment.

Penetrating oil Average load

None

516 pounds

WD-40

238 pounds

PB Blaster 214

pounds

Liquid Wrench 127 pounds

Kano Kroil

106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic

transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than

any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally

good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"

for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also

use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix.

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

thanks Curt, I'll try the home brew mix, i appreciate the info, thanks,and also thanks to the aaca forum, for providing a learning experiance and a place for knowledge

You can rock the car in any gear and it won't do a thing-it's a fluid drive coupling car. Soak it and try the starter if that does not work pull the engine and do it right-rebuild it so you can drive it with out smoking everyone behind you out! Even if you do get it un stuck the rings will most likely be frozen in the piston ring lands and the top ring land will be severely worn too. mayb e not. Been there done that on a lot of old Mopar flatheads.

Are all 1952 Dodges fluid drive?

So, my question is:

Did you get the engine unstuck?

Are all 1952 Dodges fluid drive?

hi curt, didn't get to try the home brew yet, its been raining all week out here, should be clear now so im gonna give it a shot tomorrow, let it soak, remove the starter, and hopefully this weekend i can get it to turn, thx. from what i have read i think they are all fluid drive,

Are all 1952 Dodges fluid drive?

I have never seen a 1950-52 Dodge that was not a fluid drive coupling car. Have had several including Gyro-Matic's.

According to my Interchange Manual Dodge offered a standard transmission up to the end of the fluid drive in 1955 and beyond.

My dad was a Chrysler Plymouth salesman through the 40's - 50's - and 60's. So I was born and raised in those MoPars. I can say, I never had a 52 Dodge, but it is difficult for me to imagine that some of them didn't come with a conventional three on the tree stick shift and a clutch.

The Wayfarer was one of their lower priced models. If any of them came with a 3 speed manual (non Fluid Drive) trans it would be the Wayfarer.

im trying to put reverse on my 1949 dodge wayfarer coupe and it wont let me i can put it in all the 3 gears but when i try reverse it wont let me i had this problem before and i dont know how i fix and now im having same problem again By any chance u know how to fix this problem

Tighten up the shifter rod double locking 7/16" nuts (CW) down at the steering column-engine side of firewall. Maybe 2-3 turns-see if that works. If not a few turns tighter. If you go too much it won't go into 2nd or 3rd.

Tighten up the shifter rod double locking 7/16" nuts (CW) down at the steering column-engine side of firewall. Maybe 2-3 turns-see if that works. If not a few turns tighter. If you go too much it won't go into 2nd or 3rd.

Im new at this kind of dodge wayfarer i apppreciate ur help do i have to go under car to reach the 7/16" nuts on the shifter rod down the steering column because i went to check it on top of hood and i didnt see that locking nut is it on the side of it facing the engine please let me know thanks alot

Tighten up the shifter rod double locking 7/16" nuts (CW) down at the steering column-engine side of firewall. Maybe 2-3 turns-see if that works. If not a few turns tighter. If you go too much it won't go into 2nd or 3rd.

Thankyou very much i finally fix the problem and u were right where to go tighten the nut thanks again

Glad it worked!

BTW... all the cheaper model Dodges.. Wayfarer/Meadowbrook came with a 3 speed and as far as I know most all were a 3 speed std trans coupled to the fluid drive coupling.

Coronets of course used the M-6 Gyromatic trans with the fluid coupling .

Glad it worked!

BTW... all the cheaper model Dodges.. Wayfarer/Meadowbrook came with a 3 speed and as far as I know most all were a 3 speed std trans coupled to the fluid drive coupling.

Coronets of course used the M-6 Gyromatic trans with the fluid coupling .

do u know whats the best fluid for the dodge i have a little leak i know i got to replace the gasket between the oil pan gear housing

does anyone know what is the name of the gasket that goes between the oil pan and transmission its leaking and im trying to find out what its called its a thick gasket type

do u know whats the best fluid for the dodge i have a little leak i know i got to replace the gasket between the oil pan gear housing

Best for what?

Does anyone know what is the name of the gasket between the torque converter and oil pan i have a leak between it

Does anyone know what is the name of the gasket between the torque converter and oil pan i have a leak between it

Maybe, you're asking about the ' rear main engine seal ' ?

Maybe, you're asking about the ' rear main engine seal ' ?

if u look at the picture i posted u will see thats it between the oil pan and torque convert that is the gasket that i need name for if anyone knows let me know thanks

You mean the oil pan gasket? If that drop of oil on the bellhousing is what you are worried about it doesn't look bad to me. Unless you are losing a quart every 500 miles or more I wouldn't do anything.

Thats a felt dust seal... half moon shaped to keep dirt and road spray from getting into the clutch and Fluid Drive coupling. The crankshaft rear main seal is directly above this dust seal and if it leaks it will soak this felt seal and drip down and onto the gound if the rear main seal leaks excessively.

A drip or two on an old engine is to be expected.

There is no torque converter in your car.

Thats a felt dust seal... half moon shaped to keep dirt and road spray from getting into the clutch and Fluid Drive coupling. The crankshaft rear main seal is directly above this dust seal and if it leaks it will soak this felt seal and drip down and onto the gound if the rear main seal leaks excessively.

A drip or two on an old engine is to be expected.

There is no torque converter in your car.

Thankyou very much for ur help now i can order what i need

if i want to change that felt dust seal do i have to remove oil pan

please let me know thanks again

does anyone know to connect the horn relay wire to the steering wheel horn thanks

Look at the bottom of the steering column near the steering box and there should be the horn wire coming out of it. Pressing the horn button completes the ground to close the relay for the horn to blow.

Look at the bottom of the steering column near the steering box and there should be the horn wire coming out of it. Pressing the horn button completes the ground to close the relay for the horn to blow.[/quote

i see the wire coming of the steering column but do u know which connection it gets connected to the box

That dust seal should never need replacement. You cannot just go out and buy one.

It is rivited to the lower bell housing cover.

The oil pan does not need to be removed to remove the lower bell housing cover.

That dust seal should never need replacement. You cannot just go out and buy one.

It is rivited to the lower bell housing cover.

The oil pan does not need to be removed to remove the lower bell housing cover.

Thanks for giving me info on the felt dust seal not to be removed so i guess for the leak thats coming out it means i should fix rear main seal is that correct please let me know thanks

Does anyone know how to connect the horn wires on the

horn relay

i had to add 2 green wires on top so i can use a universal horn button but the other green with blue label is the one coming from steering wheel i want to be able to use the steering wheel as my horn but dont know which wire i connect to the horn relay anyone please help thanks alot