1953 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe - Can't get it started!!!

I am very new to the classic car world. I'm going on my first month and my frustration meter is rising. I purchased a very nice 1953 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe with fluid drive transmission. It does not run and I can't get it to turn over. It had been sitting for two years when I purchased it but it had run before that. When I turn the key the starter relay just clicks. I tried to crank the engine by turning the fan but it is VERY hard to turn. I bypassed the starter relay and went directly to the starter from the battery and the engine did turn over but VERY slow and sluggish. It turned over 7-10 times before the solenoid started to smoke so I stopped. I put a small amount of penetrating oil in the cylinders but that did not do the trick. Any ideas?

The car is 6 volt, positive ground, make sure you have the battery hooked up correctly. They are very sensitive to good ground connections. I had some of your symptoms with my 54, had the starter rebuilt and that rectified many of the issues. How many miles on it?? How old is the battery?? Mine has 26,000 but the solenoid was bad and that was the biggest issue with mine.

I bought a new battery because the old one was dead. It appears I have the 6 volt hooked up right but will have a mechanic friend look at it this weekend. It has 82k on it but it was a North Carolina car and not a spot of rust. Original paint and everything on it seems original. Its frustrating because it did run fine a few years ago but the owner died and it sat for two years.

Firstly, don't be impatient in trying to start the car. Rushing into it will cause more frustration, especially if you do damage to the engine.

Here are the steps to take with an engine that has sat dormant for a few years.

1 - drain the oil - change the filter and the oil - you may even want to drop the oil pan and clean it out.

2 - spray some type of lubricant into all of the cylinders and let them soak. You can do this several times. It isn't going to hurt - it will only help

3 - drain the radiator and flush it and the engine, too.

4 - check the plugs, points, cap , etc. - probably a good idea to tune the engine before starting

5 - after soaking the cylinders - crank the engine WITH THE PLUGS OUT - this relieves the compression in the cylinders and makes it easier to spin. This way everything gets lubricated, too.

After all of that, make sure the gas tank is clean and the fuel pump is working.

I would run an external gas tank first so as not to pick up any gunk from the gas tank, which will probably need to be removed and cleaned/sealed.

So be patient and don't hurry along. It ain't worth it.

Joe

Firstly, don't be impatient in trying to start the car. Rushing into it will cause more frustration, especially if you do damage to the engine.

Thanks Joe. I appreciate the sound advice. Couple of questions.

What kind of oil should I use for an engine this old?

Is it possible that the clutch is stuck and that's why it is so hard to turn the engine by hand? I did not even know this had a clutch until I read a few threads. It has a fluid torque transmission and a pedal that says 'safety clutch' next to the brake.

Steve

Recommend using straight 30W non-detergent oil. Probably get that at a tractor supply place.

The Fluid Drive does have a clutch but I don't think that that could be causing the engine being hard to turn. The Fluid Drive is not like a normal standard transmission. The normal standard trans if left in gear will make the engine difficult to turn because the trans is engaged. Make sure that the trans is in neutral, too.

Best advice is to keep soaking the engine and see how that works as far as loosening things up.

There could also be a couple of valves hanging up and that can cause the engine to "bind".

Joe

Thanks Joe. I plan on working on it this weekend and will let you know what I find out

Steve

30W non detergent oil NOT recommended for that engine. Factory recommendation 10W30 detergent oil.

DO NOT use non detergent, it will gum up the hydraulic valve lifters. Thick heavy oil NOT recommended. If you want to you can use Shell Rotella for the extra protection of zinc, for the cam and lifters.10W30 if you can get it or 15W40 if that is all you can get.

The Fluid Drive is one of the first efforts at an automatic, in fact it is a cross between an automatic and manual trans with characteristics of both. It is a simple, rugged and reliable setup. Not prone to failure, but if it gives trouble usually it is something simple, easy and cheap to fix. Like low on oil, or wiring frayed, loose or broken.

It requires a driving technique all its own, not difficult once you know how. Do a search on the Chrysler board for Fluid Drive, the subject has been covered extensively. There were some long threads in 2008 with much good information.

The 6 volt system works well if it is in good shape. It normally turns over slower than a 12 volt. The advice on care of the cables and good grounds is good. The cables should be twice as big as on a modern car. Almost as big as a garden hose. If someone put on new cables and they are too small, there is your problem.

Thanks Rusty. I spent a frustrating day working on it. Took the plugs out and sprayed in some more penetrating oil. I thought I was turning the crankcase by turning the fan by hand but this does not seem the case. Any idea how the turn the engine over manually, if there is that sort of thing. When I turn the ignition all it does it click at the starter relay. Should I just start working my way through the logical steps by replacing parts? I have already replaced the battery, should I replace the starter relay next? then on to the solenoid and starter? The wiring could also be the problem as it is all the old cloth covered wiring and the covering is bare in many places. If so, how would I go about finding wiring for engine area?

Steve, many of your issues I too had with my 54. (Though my trans is a completely different set-up then yours) Are you sure the clicking is the starter relay (mounted on the fender-well) or is it the solenoid? Mine ended up to be the starter and after a rebuild all is now OK. As far as the wiring goes I too have that issue. I ordered new looms from Rhode Island wiring. I have not yet installed them (upcoming winter project??) but they look great. They make the looms to all original factory specs, not cheap but they are quality. There are multiple harnesses and each one can be ordered separately (engine, dash, generator, headlight, taillight). Go to their web-site and you can check out their product. I have understood that the starter relays are very expensive if you can find one but I do not have first hand knowledge on that one. Does the car have the 331 hemi?

Yes it does have a 331 hemi. Looks nice. I will check out that site thank you. It is clicking from a small unit mounted on the fender well near the battery. It has a wire coming from the battery and one going to the solenoid. So unfortunatly I do think it is the starter relay. I have looked for a part on line and no luck, just as you have mentioned.

Yes it does have a 331 hemi. Looks nice. I will check out that site thank you. It is clicking from a small unit mounted on the fender well near the battery. It has a wire coming from the battery and one going to the solenoid. So unfortunatly I do think it is the starter relay. I have looked for a part on line and no luck, just as you have mentioned.

Just to closae out this thread for future readers with similar problems. I first got the starter to turn over. The arm on the starter had rusted solid as the rubber boot that protected it had disintegrated years ago. Used penetrating oil and freed that up. Made a nice cover by molding a piece of PVC pipe and JBWelded it on. Turned over but would not start. Replaced most of the wire as they were eaten away by mice as it sat. Replaced the solenoid and distributor and through a lot of work with a volt meter, found out that there was a ground issue with a wire in the distributor. Fixed that and it started right up. Has been running like a top ever since.

Here are the factory oil requirements for the 1953 Chrysler hemi as stated in a Chrysler owners manual and 1953 factory Chrysler shop manual.

This is not to say don't use 10/30.

Oils today are so much better than back in 1953.

Bob

Here are the factory oil requirements for the 1953 Chrysler hemi as stated in a Chrysler owners manual and 1953 factory Chrysler shop manual.

This is not to say don't use 10/30.

Oils today are so much better than back in 1953.

Bob

Thanks Bob - that is great information. I appreciate it. Steve

I use synthetic in my 54 Windsor. why not use the best? 10/30 is fine. definitely use detergent oil. the zinc issue is not a problem for the normal driving we do with our classic cars. the transmission calls for a 10w oil, but it is very hard to find. use tractor fluid from tractor supply, iso 22 or iso 32 will work. I used to use hydraulic jack oil in my 51 Chrysler and it worked great. non-foaming and light oil is the key. I sold my 53 imperial to get my 54 Windsor convertible, so I know how much you will love the car you have. 331 is a great dependable engine. capt den