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1953 Roadmaster 76R Project


Guest 53Mark

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Guest 53Mark

After lurking on the forums for a long time I thought it was about time for me to take a little more active role in the discussion and at least start a thread for my developing obsession with my Buick. I've found this site invaluable and hope that maybe this will contribute in some way.

A little background on the car: My father purchased the car from a friend in late 2005 and it sat under a carport at his house until Summer 2010 when I talked him into giving it to me to fix up. Before my father purchased it, the vehicle was in the same family for around 40 years and sat in storage the bulk of that time. I don't have much info before that.

When I received the car, the only items missing were the jack, spark plug covers, the sweep trim on the passenger door and the parking brake knob (at least that is all I know at this point that is/was missing). The inner mustache bar on the upper grille was broken as well as the outer pieces (still looking for these pieces). However, the car appeared to be all original with the exception of exhaust and some aftermarket horns that had been added. The car was running, mileage at 77,609, but not drivable because of brakes and who knows what else. I should have done a better evaluation of all the components before I dove in to disassembly - lesson learned.

A little about me: I am 34, married to a very gracious wife that puts up with me, and a proud daddy of two girls. I work as a CPA and until two years ago my automotive skills amounted only to some oil changes and a brake job. I had few tools and little knowledge to undertake a restoration so spent most of the first year to year and half buying tools, researching and trying to prepare my two car garage (and the Mrs.) for such an undertaking. I hope when I am finished, I can look back and say, "yes, you can start from scratch, have a blast and end up with a great car."

So, basically the car is in a disassembly phase. It is about to the point of where I'll be repairing some rust areas before I take the body off and start work on the chassis. I debated the body off method for some time but ultimately decided it was best for what I wanted to accomplish. I did start a blog on this project when I first got the car but haven't posted much and you'll have to bare with the silly commentary if you check it out. I think I may of posted this link back when I first got the car but here it is again if you are interested: '53 Buick Roadmaster | The chronology of a restoration and maybe a few other ramblings.

Thanks in advance to everyone for helping me out as I know I will have many questions. I'll plan to update my progress and post my questions here. A few pictures should be attached to show what the car looked like when I got it and where it is now. Please forgive the ugly tires...

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Guest 53Mark

Thanks Mike - I do have one question I posted in someone else's thread but I'll post it here too.

Anybody know if you can take the rear quarter window out with it in the up position or how to get the window to go down without busting the hydraulic cylinder? It is locked in place in the up position and I'm not having much luck moving it and am afraid to force it down.

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That window fails in the down position. Be real careful monkeying around with it. The spring is very powerful and if it suddenly goes to normal position you could lose fingers.

The window switch should bleed it to lower under spring pressure. To go up the cylinder valve opens and the pump runs. To go down the cylinder valve opens and the pump doesn't run. The fluid is pushed back to the reservoir through the open valve by the finger eating spring. Did you try powering the switch and pushing for down?

Bernie

Bernie

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Guest 53Mark

Thanks for the safety tip Bernie. I do want to keep these fingers. The switch and the wiring has all been removed at this point. It did not work to start with and I never investigated to see what the culprit was. Is there a way to open the valve without power? I'm not sure I could even get to it if there is.

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Mark,

There is a single wire to the hydraulic cylinder. Attach a wire to it and pull the wire out of the quarter panel cavity, fingers too. Then give it 12V from a battery that is grounded to the car. Tell your helper its magic.

Bernie

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if you can get to it in cavity or once out- in a flat area were it didnt conflict with eather arm i drilled a 1/8th inch hole through both then ran a selftapping scew through for safety while working on.they will do some damage to you if they seperate.this was on my 1st generation riv.hope this helps.t.nugent roa 12969.

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Guest BigDogDaddy

I will be following this thread with lots of interest as I also have a 53 Roadie 76 R. There aren't many of these cars left as most were sacrificed to restore Skylarks. There was a beautifully restored one at the meet in Danvers. That was the first one I had seen restored anywhere.

Mine needs a total restoration, but I have been concentrating all my efforts on my '40 Limited 81.

Lots of luck with your restoration !

Phil

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Guest 53Mark

Bernie - tried the wire but still no luck. A little fluid came out but then all I could get was a click sound each time I connected the wire. I'll try again tomorrow and hope for a different result.

Phil - Thanks - glad to hear about your 53. I did see pictures of the one at Danvers and you are absolutely correct, it was beautiful. I saved the pictures of it and take a look whenever I need to remind myself of my goal. I assume that is your '40 in your image gallery - It's a beauty!

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Guest Rob McDonald

MARK, your enthusiasm is forgiven but please tell us all, again, why it's best to get a good old car running and driving before taking it apart for restoration. One that's as complete and solid as yours would be a prime candidate for restore-as-you-go. No matter, sounds like you've got the right attitude to keep going on this. A supportive wife is your best tool!

Sometimes it surprises me how young 34 is...

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Guest 53Mark

Ha - Rob - I never said I was the smartest or made the best decisions, that is why I gave my age and the fact I've never done this before. I figured once everyone saw that they would forgive me for a a few ignorant statements and decisions.

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Guest 53Mark

Thought I would post some pictures of some of the rust issues I have in front of me. I've been spending some time practicing my welding and as soon as I get more comfortable with my progress I'll try to address some of the easier of these. If anyone has any suggestions before I begin this process I would be glad to hear them.

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When you're ready to start, grind those holes back to clean bright metal. Since you want to do this right, do not scrimp on the grinding,, but do not waste original good metal either.

Once you have good clean metal, make yourself a template of what you need to cut before cutting any sheet metal. I made templates out of waxed manilla card stock, which came from packing on industrial sized boxes of vegetables. The nice thing about this card stock is you can bend it to the approximate shape needed, and mark it with Sharpies for where your bends and folds have to be. In the process it's easily attached to your project with masking tape, and when you have what you need, it can be folded flat again with little fuss. Once it's flat again you'll be able to cut what you need and begin shaping your patch panels to almost identical dimensions.

Good luck and keep the pics flowing.

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Mark,

Welcome aboard! You have a really nice car there and I commend you for restoring her, but also warn that you keep motivated and we here on the forum can help you stay motivated! Feel free to ask any and all questions you might have. Almost all of us have threads about the vehicles we are or have restored. Most have nice, detailed instructions or pictures to see progress. Good luck. Matt

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No more rust that is in that floor, I would just treat it with a rust converter/preventative, and patch those small holes with fiberglass. It will all be covered up, anyway, with carpet and carpet padding, so no one will ever see it. If you have little or no welding experience, you can end up making the holes bigger rather than smaller if the welder is set too high and blows out the metal. Might be a cheaper way to go, too. I know it's not my decision, but as nice as that car is right now, I can't see the reason for pulling the body off the frame. P.S.: I love your Buick. '52 and '53 Roadmaster hardtops are two of my all-time favorites.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

1949 model 71

1949 model 59

1949 model 51

1950 model 76-R

1954 model 48-D

1959 Electra 2-dr.

1962 Electra 225 4-dr. ht.

1963 Wildcat conv.

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Guest 53Mark

Matt - Thanks for the welcome. I've enjoyed reading your thread and seeing the progress on your '47. I love the way the front fenders slopes down through the door to the rear quarter panel. That is a really nice car.

Pete - Appreciate your comments and your work on the Bugle each month. You do a great job. The pictures of the rust on the floor are a little bit deceiving. After cleaning up one of the floor pans with a wire wheel most of the holes got a little bigger and a few more showed up. However, they are relatively small, most of the holes are not any bigger than my thumb and are not too heavily concentrated. The surrounding metal is heavily pitted. Maybe the fiberglass is the best route. I'll think some more about the body off the frame. I plan to start working on the frame after this metal work is finished so I'll have to decide soon.

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Guest 53Mark

I need some advice on a plan of attack for repairing this metal. After cleaning up the driver side floor for a few minutes tonight I found a larger rust hole in front of the support that goes from the inside of the body down to the floor (this is picture 1). The hole goes under that support a little bit and then down through another piece of metal which is actually where the body connects the frame on the front/side of the firewall (pictures 2 & 3). Do I just cut the welds of the support piece and slide a new floor pan underneath it, then replace the support underneath that connects body to frame? Maybe it is that simple but I want to make sure.

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