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Bringing Dad's 1951 Roadmaster Back!


Guest timinbovey

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Guest shadetree77

Great pictures Tim. Thank you for taking the time to share your great story with us. You are going to have fun working on this car, I guarantee it! I've had an awesome time with mine. Now for a little advice. You can try to get her started just to see if she'll run but I really don't recommend letting it run for long. Maybe 5 minutes or so. Don't use your gas tank, run it to some clean gas in a gas can. You really need to drop the gas tank and the oil pan and possibly even the transmission pan and do some major cleaning before you let her run for any length of time. If I had a time machine, I would go back to when I got my '52 that had been sitting for around 40 years and tell myself to do these things. It would have saved me a lot of time, money, and frustration! I know you probably don't want to hear that those things need to be done because that adds to the time before she's on the road, but believe me these things need to be done!! I paid for my mistake of not doing those things and I don't want to see someone else go through all that if I can help it. If it's been sitting without regular use since the 70's I can almost guarantee you it will have at least a few inches of gritty clay-like sludge in the oil pan (that CANNOT be removed by changing oil) and varnish and rust in the gas tank. This stuff will make quick work of rendering your oiling system and carburetor inoperative. As for the windshield, I'd go the reproduction route. You'd be hard pressed to find an original windshield that hasn't started to de-laminate. On the fuel pump, you can put an original back on and most of the time it should work OK. They were driven all around the country back in the day, but nowadays with the ethanol fuels sold at most gas stations you will experience vapor lock. You can get around this for the most part by either finding an ethanol free gas station (you can start here to find one: Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada) or by installing an electric pump out of sight near your gas tank wired to a hidden toggle switch under the dash to aid the mechanical pump when experiencing vapor lock on a hot day. Here's a link to a site that has some information on your decoding your data plate: 1951 Buick Models . And at the bottom I've pasted in a list I've compiled of various parts suppliers for our old Buicks. Have you joined the Buick Club Of America yet? Once again, thanks for taking the time to share and welcome to the forum!:)

NOS and used Buick (and others) parts:

Bob's Automobilia

3352 South El Pomar

Templeton, CA 93465

805-434-2963

805-434-2626 (fax)

Bob's Automobilia

Classic Buicks

P.O. Box 28

Dallas, OR 97338-0028

503-831-4913 (fax)

Classic Buicks

The Buick Farm

PO Box 384

Clayton, DE 19938

NOS Buick Parts & Original Literature, 1935-2012 or Present

CARs, Inc.

205 Pearl St

Neshanic Station, NJ 08853

908-369-3666

Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.

Antique Auto Supply

1225 Colorado Ln.

Arlington, TX 76015

817-275-2381

775-234-9858 (fax)

antiqueautosupply@yahoo.com

Antique Auto Supply, Keeping the Old Car Hobby alive for the last 50 years"

Classic NOS Parts

815-399-1075

classicnosparts@aol.com

Classic NOS Parts

Used Buick parts:

Ken Schmidt

The Buick Bonery

4700 8TH Ave

Sacramento, CA 95820-1511

916-599-3934

buickbonery@hotmail.com

Moore's Auto Salvage

1761 Country Road

Rapid City, SD 57701

605-348-4926

605-348-0499 (fax)

Moores Auto Salvage: Quality parts for antique and classic cars and trucks from the 1920s to 1980s.

Various Buick parts (engine, suspension, etc.):

Kanter Auto Products

76 Monroe St

Boonton, NJ 07005

1-800-526-1096

973-334-9575

973-334-5423 (fax)

TA Performance Products

16167 N. 81st Street

Scottsdale, AZ 85260

480-922-6807

TA Performance Products Inc. - Your Leader in Buick Automotive Parts and Accessories

Edited by shadetree77 (see edit history)
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. . . . . Data plate photo attached too. Translators welcome . . . . .

[ATTACH=CONFIG]148745[/ATTACH]

Here's what I came up with. Info taken mostly from a 1928-1954 BUICK MASTER CHASSIS PARTS BOOK.

Line #1: 1951 MOD. 51-72 . . . . . . 72 (technically should read 72R) = 6 passenger Roadmaster Riviera 4-door Sedan

Line #2: STYLE No. 51-4719 . . . . . 514719 = Fisher Style Number for a 1951 Model 72R with manual windows (514719X = hydraulic windows)

Line #3: BODY No. G 5682 . . . . . . G = Built in Flint . . . . . 5682 = the 5,682nd Model 72R built in Flint

Line #4: TRIM No. 71 . . . . . . . . . 71 = Dark Green Broadcloth with Light Green Broadcloth interior fabric

Line #5: PAINT No. 15 . . . . . . . . 15 = Sky Grey upper body with a Cloudmist Grey lower body exterior paint colors

ACCessories . . . . . B = Heater & Defroster . . . . . D = Sonomatic Radio & Antenna . . . . . P = Easy Eye (tinted) Glass

Just for kicks, ask your Dad if he is originally from 'Nordeast' Minneapolis? I say this because I noticed the SWANBERG & SCHEEFE Dealership emblem on the rear trunk. S&S was located in Nordeast Minneapolis (1905-1976) and a high percentage of people that bought Buicks from them lived in Nordeast Minneapolis. I was born, raised, and lived there for 29 years, less than two miles away from S&S; walked by their showroom on the way to high school (DeLaSalle). In fact, that's where I saw a new 1953 Buick Skylark for the first time.

Hope this helps.

Al Mack

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

Edited by 1953mack (see edit history)
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Guest timinbovey

Well, I'm going to try and comment on several posts. First of all, thanks to so many for sharing such useful information -- I had a couple of the parts sources, but not most. Also thanks for the decode on the data plate.

Yes, my initial thoughts are get it fixed up into a reliable driver so we can take the Folks for Sunday drives, out to dinner, etc. Down the road we'll worry about a full on restoration. The Wife insists if we're keeping it, we're going all the way with it, but that will take time and I don't want my folks to pass away while the car sits in a million pieces!

Don't remember who asked, but yes, my folks and our family spent most of our lives in "Nordeast" Minneapolis. Dad was born/grew up in Holland, MN (down by Pipestone) and graduated from SDSU as a pharmacist. He owned a couple stores in Northeast Minneapolis (not at the same time) one was cleverly named "Ken's Pharmacy". He worked at Rolig Drug on 13th Ave NE for many years, and when Dean Rolig died Dad bought the store, and continued to call it Rolig Drug. After several robberies during the mid-later 70's including one where Dad got shot through the right arm by a drug crazed robber, he left the drugstore business and got his real estate license. He eventually missed pharmacy and got back into it. To this day he has no feeling in three of his fingers in his right hand -- the bullet severed a nerve in his arm -- and since about 1976 has had to start his cars with his left hand, reaching over the steering column. Which has led to unusual wear on the ignition switches and several replacements!

Yes, I sent off my membership for the BCA. Oddly, we joined back in '88 when Dad talked about maybe getting the car going again. We never did, but he saved one copy of the "Bugle" just in case we needed it one day -- he just handed it to me last week! In fact, back in 2007 Mom really wanted to sell the car, in fact I think the the for sale listing is still posted here someplace. That's why my stats on the left say member since 2007 -- I signed up just to post the ad! We're all glad we never sold it! Back then I was up to my eyeballs in other things, my folks still lived in the Cities, and doing anything with the car seemed very remote.

Today's investments included a 6 volt battery and a fan belt. My goal today is to just see if it cranks. No fuel, no ignition wired, no plugs installed. Just to see if she spins -- maybe go wild and see if any lights work, etc. I have to get to work on the brakes soon -- one rear drum missing in action after it had to be cut off -- so fluid is leaking.

Anyone know if L78-15 tires will fit OK? Stock is 8.00-15. I think J78 is the technical equal, but they're hard to find, especially in 3" whitewalls!

Incidentally, when Dad owned the '51 "back in the day" his twin brother had a '49, as did his father (my grandpa). Somewhere we have a slide of 49-51-49 parked side by side on the front lawn at my Grandparents house. If I find it, I'll upload it.

timinbovey

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Guest Ryanintopeka

Just wanted to come into the thread and say "Hi." I'm the son he's referring to, and I am excited that the car is staying in the family. I have no fears about taking on the project once I finally get to the point where I can go up to MN and visit. One of these days I've got to talk my wife into moving to the Twin Cities area. I'm trying to get a company in Shakopee to hire me... She's still got some college left before she gets her BA in Elementary Education. Our little girl starts school next year, too.

You all seem like nice helpful fellas. Glad you're all around. I'm sure we'll be picking your brain in the near future!

Ryan

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Tim,

What a great story and great pictures to boot! I recommend what Robert said about the electric fuel pump. It will really save your bacon when you get vapor lock, which is inevitable with the fuel they sell these days. The guys and gals on the Forum are the best and can really help you define and fix any problems that you might have with the 51.

I agree with Rob (MacDonald) that you need to enjoy this beauty with your parents while you still can. A Sunday driver is a great thing to have for the whole family to enjoy. The "full tilt" restoration can be done in manageable chunks..and still keep it a driver for your enjoyment. Can't wait to hear more about the wonderful history and ride that you have.

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Guest timinbovey

I feel like I'm just working in baby steps here, but the latest: I squirted a couple ounces of motor oil into all the cylinders -- even though the engine turned smoothly with a breaker bar on the crank, I figured plenty of oil wouldn't hurt anything. I picked up a typical 6 volt tractor battery -- which I'm sure far surpasses anything they had in '51. Made sure everything was off. Connected it. In the car tried things one at a time to see if anything worked. ALL the lighting seems to work! Had to turn the lights on and off a few times to get reliable contact, but I'd expect that. Defrost/heater blower works, horn, the accessory Fog Horn Dad added (WOW is THAT annoying) even the temporarily installed electric fuel pump works. Clock wound but doesn't run (expected that). Replaced the fanbelt ($4.71 at my FLAPS). Added some oil to the generator oil holes. Finally, tried cranking her over (no plugs, ignition coil disconnected, etc) and she turn over smoothly and with great conviction. So, starter and it's related electrical devices seem to be working fine and the engine spun smooth and free. Radiator has some antifreeze in it -- can't see anything at the top, but non rusty bright green antifreeze comes from the drain spigot. Spritzed some oil on all moving parts, pivots, etc. as everything was pretty darn dry.

The only trouble spot I have so far is one hood hinge. The one nearest the firewall on the passenger side was just hanging free by the cable. Close look revealed the pivot part of the hinge was no longer connected. Looks like the pivot is just two rivets? I imagine this would be repaired just fine with a couple bolts/nuts? Or is there a better way? I suppose a rod or bolt all the way through would work fine too. I'm guessing this is common as that's a pretty big hood to be supported by those small rivot pivot points.

Did I mention earlier there was a pair of pants in the trunk? Nicely folded, 1950's mens pants. Kept there in case you had to change a tire or some such in your Sunday duds. They're intact. I'm going to run 'em through the wash and see what happens. If they were my Grandpa's they just might fit me, if they were Dad's, no chance.

Found a couple more slides of Mom with the car from when it was relatively new -- but still sorting through mounds of slides so I'll wait to see if I find more for any scanning. Fun searching for them. When I last saw most of these slides on the big screen in the living room I was a kid and didn't appreciate all the car shots as much as I do now!

I am going to order up a stock fuel pump. Even though the ethanol fuels have taken over, here in Minnesota there's an exception to the law for collector cars and small engines, and since we live in the heart of tourist territory we have a ton of boaters and snowmobilers up here, not to mention 4-wheelers, etc during hunting season, so nearly every station has a non-ethanol pump. Additionally I have ready access to Sunoco racing gas (one station has it on a pump for the stock car racers around here) and I know folks at the airport and can get aviation 100LL gas out of their pump (used to use this mixed with some regular gas in my Edsel years ago).

So that's what I know so far. Have to order a lot of brake parts, and these old knees don't much care for working on brakes!

I have it on 50/50 good authority that L78-15 tires will fit fine. Is this a consensus? There are huge 8.00 - 15 snow tires on the back, with plenty of room around them and between them and the fender, and the front are different -- one is marked 8.15/8.20 - 15 the other is marked 8.20 - 15 and they look really small on the car. Coker has some L78-15 3" white wall radials at a decent price -- gotta have the wide whites of course, and need driving tires -- don't care about correctness for judging, etc. Need function over correctness. Tubeless tires work OK on the stock rims?

timinbovey

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Guest timinbovey

Took yesterday off from working on the car. Back to it today.

Put the plugs back in after checking gaps, and had my daughter crank it while I dribbled a little gas in the carb just to see if she'd fire, but no luck there. Didn't really push it -- don't want to damage anything, and I suppose there's so much oil in the cylinders that firing may be impossible. But it did have spark, so I know that's working!

Decided it was time to get the back up off the ground, get the tires off and check our the rear brake situation. The fella who had it stored said they had to "torch a brake drum" to get it free so the car would roll when they had to move it to the other place. Certainly NOT what I imagined (see photo below) Basically cut off the whole front of the drum, leaving a circle of sharp edges with the outside of a drum securely attached to the shoes. Got the brake hardware off, but still no dice getting it all free as the wheel cylinder is still connected to the line, because of course it won't come undone without twisting the line off, and I don't really want to do that even though I'm probably going to replace all the lines to play it safe. Then I suppose it'll be hung up on the emergency brake cable too. Couple hours on the garage floor and my out of shape body is pretty sore!

The tires on the back were HUGE. Now, I don't know a lot about old tires, styles and sizes. These are both marked 8.00-15. One is substantially bigger. Both are just about worn smooth (see photos). The car has tires described as 8.15 or 8.20 - 15 on the front and they are a LOT smaller. Makes no sense to me. Anyway, I'm gonna get the old tires off and get the rims blasted or whatever and paint 'em so they at least don't look like they've been to Hell and back. See tire photos.

Ordered a fuel pump, master cylinder and rear brake drums today.

First time I got a good look at the underside of the car. Everything is quite solid. Some rust in the rockers but the rest is solid as heck. Floors are good, frame, etc. So I was encouraged about that!

I'm gonna do another post in a minute, after scanning a coupe more slides of Mom with the car back when it was new.

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timinbovey

post-52311-14313912884_thumb.jpg

post-52311-143139128861_thumb.jpg

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Guest timinbovey

I keep digging through the mountains of slides -- Dad was quite the shutterbug and he took 99% slides all the time! Found a couple more of Mom that I had never seen before. The shot of Mom IN the car shows that Dad did nearly almost always had seat covers on the car, these are different than what's on it now. Must have been the thing back then, eh?

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timinbovey

post-52311-143139128904_thumb.jpg

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Guest Rob McDonald

Mom's a babe, all right, but what are the chances of catching two Kaisers in the background? Well, maybe the black one's a Frazer - I don't know them well enough to say. That's the thing about old photos - the foreground is great but what's behind can be pretty historic, too.

I wish my parents were as fond of photos as yours were/are. A total of four family cars appear in my old albums - a Whippet from about 1928, a '39 Plymouth, a '53 Chev, and a '56 Pontiac. There were scads of others but they never stood still for pictures, I guess.

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Guest timinbovey

Been a little slow on updates! Mostly waiting for parts to arrive. I have two rear brake drums, new master cylinder, complete set of brake lines and hardware coming from Kanter. Fuel pump being drop shipped from the rebuilder, and all the tune up stuff (points, plugs, condenser, coil, cap rotor, etc) and the rest of the brakes (new wheel cylinders, shoes, etc) all on the way special ordered to my FLAPS. Hopefully things will be arriving tomorrow so I can do something constructive over the weekend. Got the hood hinge figured out (the rear pass side the rivets in the hinge were broken leaving no pivot) I'm just going to drill out the fender side of the hinge a bit bigger and install a 5/16" rod with cotter pins in the ends.

Still trying to figure out tires. It was suggested that the L78-15 Coker Classics would fit and would save me $160 over the Coker 8.00x15 which is the actual size the car came with. Diameter is only about 1/4 inch taller, but section width is about a half inch wider. Seems like they should work, but if I'm wrong the re-stocking fee and return shipping costs would really stink!

So that's where I'm at today.

timinbovey

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L-78/15 was the first wide white tire I used on my 55 back in the mid 70's, because that was all that was available. They looked good and performed about as well as the 7.60-15 tires I later used. I may use them again, since I don't do car shows anymore and the correct tires are so dang expensive!

Willie

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Guest timinbovey

I'm pleased as punch to announce that the engine runs! At least, on a spritz of starting fluid anyway! Replaced all the ignition parts this morning (except for plug wires). The wife cranked it while I gave it a spritz of starting fluid and she fires! It would run for a few seconds on a spritz, enough to determine that the oil pressure gauge comes up off the zero peg, and the charging gauge shows a charge, so the basic vital statistics show some life! Hopefully the fuel pump arrives next week, and the carb turns out not to be a complete mess, and maybe it will run off a can of gas (I'm not going to try the gas tank for a while). Very encouraging to know that at least the basic engine fires and runs!

Also, my hood hinge repair seems to have worked out perfectly, so I can cross that off.

Picked up nearly all the brake parts at my FLAPS on Friday. Waiting for the hardware kit and rear brake drums to arrive next week. Also have a full set of new brake lines coming. Everything in the brakes from the master cylinder to the wheels will be replaced. Did I mention I hate working on brakes? Used to make my Son do it, but since he moved away, I've gotta do it!

Little bit of progress!

timinbovey

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This is one of the best threads on here in quite some time.

:)

Yep no question about that. In fact, I can't remember any thread that holds my attention and offers such anticiption on every new post as this one.

Thank You Tim for the very well written posts and huge amount of detail. All the background info really built a foundation for the story. Keep up the excellent work!

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Guest timinbovey

Big day for deliveries. Post office delivered brake hardware. UPS brought a fuel pump. FEdEx brought two rear brake drums and a master cylinder. And me? I took a nap! I suspect a busy day tomorrow!

Yesterday all we did was clean out the car a bit. We hadn't even so much as wiped off the dash yet, but I had the shop vac out yesterday so figured I'd have at the car. My Grandpa was the Phillips 66 dealer in my Dad's small hometown of Holland, MN. Either Dad or Grandpa had taken Phillips 66 advertising store display cardboard signs and cut them up to make perfectly fitting trunk floor covers, covering over all the original trunk mats. Removed all that and cleaned up all the other stray trunk debris and mouse poop. Vacuumed out the insides, removed the back seat and sucked out mouse nest remains, etc, and gave the insides a quick Windex job. Much better inside. So, not a lot of progress over the weekend except for finding out the engine can run on Saturday.

Side note: If you look at the photos from a while back there's a shot of the dash, and stuck to the glove box door is a small calendar. It's from the Toggery Cleaners in Pipestone, MN and it's from 1961. Turns out they're still in business. I'm gonna send them a photo of the car and the dash with a bit of the story just for the heck of it. Maybe someone from the family is still involved and will remember Dad or Grandpa. Trust me, Dad is the kind of guy people would remember.

Managed to do the paperwork to transfer the title to me today. Of course Mom couldn't find the original title, so I sent for a duplicate, and the same day that arrived Mom found the original, but had to use the updated one. Had to fill out a gift affidavit since I didn't buy it from Dad, otherwise the State would "appraise" the car and make me pay sales tax on the value they determine. About 7 years or so ago, my Son bought a 1949 Chevrolet cheap (one his "learning" cars) and since there was no title, the State got to determine value, and placed it at about $5,000 and made us buy a bond policy to protect the State in the event of someone coming forth and claiming the car once we got a new title. Anyway, they decided a 1949 Chevrolet with rust, no brakes, no electrical, exploded motor, etc was worth that kind of cash. I can only imagine what they'd value a one owner Roadmaster at! Anyway, we had all the paperwork in place and no problems getting it all turned in. First time the title has been in someones name other than Dad's!

timinbovey

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Guest timinbovey

Just for the record -- the new fuel pump is in. I've got to buckle down and get going on the brakes. Back is in the air, drums are off, everything from the damaged drivers side is removed. It's ready to go back together in the rear, but I HATE doing brakes. Still waiting for the new lines to arrive, but I have everything else. Gotta decide on tires so I can order them so I'm ready to put it back on the ground when brakes are done!

timinbovey

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Guest Rob McDonald

TIM, since you're asking - sort of - go with the authentic tire size if they're not outrageously more money than the L78s. You'll be surprised at how long you'll own these things and someday you might become more purist-minded. Mind you, I've had my Remington L78x15s for 30 years and still don't care. They hold the wheels off the garage floor and have acquired a lovely yellowed patina.

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Guest timinbovey

Well, yesterday was "buckle down and put the darn rear brakes in day" It's been sitting on the jack stands with the drums off and the entire left side completely disassembled and cleaned, ready to go back together. Generally an uneventful process except that I hadn't done any brake work since 1993 (and that was on an Edsel, on a bumper jack, in the middle of a Minnesota January). I've obviously aged and grown in girth -- working on the floor sucks! The project did precipitate one trip to town for parts -- the links that come out of the wheel cylinders and engage the shoes for the right rear were extremely rusty and corroded and the slots were bent bad on one side (getting this side apart was nearly impossible -- for some reason only this brake drum rusted and corroded badly inside, and I don't think the torch work helped) and I didn't want to try and re-use them, and I knew if I tried to bend them straight the slot side would break off. Fortunately my FLAPS had one pair in stock! Got the left side done and stood back and thought "that sure looks nice". Started on the other side (already had the drum off) and figured this would be easy, since it wasn't all rusty and beat up like the other side. Yup, came apart just like it should. Went right back together with all new parts. In the process realized I did NOT put the anchor pin plate back on the other side before putting the return springs on, so went over, took the springs off, put the plate on, put the springs back on, and all is well. New drums also fit perfectly. New wheel cylinders, the works. I did note the replacement return springs have a slight bit larger diameter than the originals, preventing the second spring from sitting all the way down against the pin. I believe they're solid and will work fine, but seemed odd to me. Still don't know if the brakes will work as I'm waiting for new lines to arrive, and in the meantime have to do the fronts and the new master cylinder.

I also picked up a fitting for the fuel pump co I can easily connect a fuel hose and stick it in a gas can to see if she runs on gas through the carb (rather than just a squirt of starting fluid which is all she's had in years) so that's ready to go, but by the time I wrapped up the brakes last night the I was pooped and the Wife didn't look like she wanted to come out and crank the car, so we'll try that later today.

Took some time to poke around under the car a bit more. Still convinced it's all quite solid. However, I see I'm going to need a new front stabilizer bar and links. It's literally broken. And it's been broken a long time. It's snapped in two on the passenger side, maybe 16 inches to the left of center. The longer broken end had been tucked up by the radiator. The link on the drivers side is badly bent. It's obviously been broken for a long time as the ends where the break are are seriously rusted -- like end of a dinosaur bone looking rusted. Although not critical to driving it around the block someday, this is obviously going to have to be replaced. How the heck does someone actually BREAK a stabilizer bar? Nothing else under there seems to show any damage. No evidence that the car drove over something or hit anything. I'm guessing (and totally guessing here) that in it's 35+ years of storage at some point someone had to move it and put a tow strap, chain, etc around that bar to move the car and snapped it? I'll see if I can't post a couple photos later. So, where does a guy find a stabilizer bar for a '51 Roadmaster? I'm guessing none of the parts places have new ones in stock and no one is reproducing them!

Well, today's only scheduled project is to see if she runs off gas, through the fuel pump and carb. Or if I just get a shower of gas through a carb full of bad gaskets, leaks and debris!

Oh, also I found it curious -- I'm leaking transmission fluid front and back. This car has been sitting 36 years. At least. Hasn't really been driven since the 60's. How can it have anything left in it to leak? Also there's a very slow drip coming off the front drivers corner of the radiator now, too. Again, it hasn't leaked in 35 years. Kind of keeping with my policy -- if things are OK, don't jiggle it! I figured the Dynaflow is going to need work, seals, gaskets, etc. Which is WAY beyond the abilities of me, my equipment, or the teeny shop area I have to work in. But I've been scoping out the old timer shop guys around here that are familiar with Dynaflow. It's one of the things in the car that we're already budgeting for.

timinbovey

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Guest timinbovey

OK, most exciting things first! It Runs. On Gas. Through the carb! With NO leaks. And a nice idle! I put a clear gas hose on the inlet of the new fuel pump, shoved it in a can of gas, let the Wife crank it while I gave it a shot of starting fluid, and after about three short runs, it kept on running off GAS! And it idles! OK, it smokes a lot, but we have been pouring oil in the cylinders for years, and I'm sure it's due for a rebuild, but it RUNS! Gauges show pressure and charging, so this is good. We didn't run it long, maybe 5 minutes. Put it in drive, the rear wheels went around! It's still on the jackstands with no tires on the rear. But this means, to me anyway, that the transmission at least transmisses a little bit! All good news. Short video:

Also below are the photos of the broken front stabilizer bar. I'm going to need the bar, links, bushings, the works. Not a priority at this point in the game, but never to early to start looking for something probably not easy to come by.

post-52311-143139146815_thumb.jpg

For now I think it's on the front brakes and getting some tires ordered and getting the ancient tires off the rims and getting the rims cleaned up and painted. All while waiting for new brake lines to arrive!

An exciting Day!!

tiinbovey

post-52311-143139146803_thumb.jpg

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Also below are the photos of the broken front stabilizer bar. I'm going to need the bar, links, bushings, the works. Not a priority at this point in the game, but never to early to start looking for something probably not easy to come by.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]151243[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]151244[/ATTACH]

For now I think it's on the front brakes and getting some tires ordered and getting the ancient tires off the rims and getting the rims cleaned up and painted. All while waiting for new brake lines to arrive!

An exciting Day!!

tiinbovey

This is a common rusting spot for sway bars in general. Moisture does collect under the rubber bushing. It erodes the metal.

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. . . . . So, where does a guy find a stabilizer bar for a '51 Roadmaster? I'm guessing none of the parts places have new ones in stock and no one is reproducing them! . . . . . timinbovey

Good used parts shouldn't be too difficult to find. A 1928-1954 BUICK MASTER CHASSIS PARTS BOOK lists the following:

STABILIZER SHAFT, Group #7.241, Part #1319823, all 1948 thru 1952; 1953-40 series (Specials) Buicks

STABILIZER SHAFT BRACKET, Group #7.242, Part #411142, all 1948 thru 1954 (front) Buicks, Oldsmobiles, and Cadillacs.

I would recommend new bushings and link kits; available from Buick parts houses or maybe even from your friendly local auto parts store.

As a side note, it was interesting to read your post re: your Dad working for and then later owning ROLIG DRUG STORE on 13th Avenue N.E. in Minneapolis. Like I mentioned in a previous post I was born, raised, and lived in Nordeast Minneapolis for 29 years . . . . . just two blocks North on 15th Avenue N.E., the second house behind the iconic "MAYSLACK'S POLKA LOUNGE". Moved out of Nordeast in 1970. I want to say that he sure looked familiar when I first saw his picture in your first post, and now, I still want to say that I can picture him in his white pharmacy coat; we hung out at the soda fountain and spent a few dollar$ there. Small world.

Al (Mack) Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

Edited by 1953mack (see edit history)
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Guest chevy_dude97

great looking car, and nice job getting her running! I recommend using drop cloths under the front end when working the suspension. I noticed I was tracking grease all over and had to do some pressure washing in my drive way... Scraping the gunk off and just folding up the plastic drop cloths it falls on is much easier. Cant wait to see a video of the car driving!

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Guest timinbovey

Been kinda slacking this week. It's been around 90 degrees and I just don't feel like getting all THAT hot and dirty! All new brake lines have arrived, And I bit the bullet and ordered a set of new tires from Coker in the exact original tire size with 3" whitewalls. Tomorrow I WILL get the front up on the jack stands as well, and might even go so far as to get the front tires and drums off. then gotta get the old crumbling tires unmounted and get the rims cleaned up so I can paint them. We have a big community celebration in town this weekend -- and you know how really small town celebrations go... the whole town will be involved and I don't know if I'll get any work done over the weekend, we'll see. So, not quite at a standstill, but not moving at the full pace of the last couple weeks. Everything I need for front bakes in here, except drums as I haven't determined the condition of the ones on the car. Will know more later.

Found another photo of the car -- it's from a somewhat blurry slide, but I did add a caption to this one:

post-52311-143139151395_thumb.jpg

timinbovey

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Guest timinbovey

Geeze -- the Roadmaster really beat me up today! Tires arrived from Coker on Thursday. Un wrapped them and set them in the other side of the garage (the non working side) until they're ready for mounting. Old tires are off the rims. Just gotta clean up and paint the rims and then can get the tires mounted.

Decided to tackle the front brakes today. Drums came off just fine, passenger side came apart just fine. Of course the hose/line connection on the drivers side would not come apart at all. No amount of force or mind over machine ideas was going to get it apart neatly. Oh well, I HAVE all new brakes lines so time to decide I can just wreck the short metal line to the drivers side front, and even then it didn't want to come apart! Finally I won the battle, old line out, new line in (the fitting where the lines all come together isn't exactly handy to get to!) All the brake innards are cleaned up, new wheel cylinders are in along with new hoses. Turns out the brake shoes I got are 1/4" too wide! Went back to my FLAPS, they're ordering me the right ones and I won't get 'em till Wednesday. So the front sits apart. I did spritz the master cylinder bolts with penetrating oil so maybe by tomorrow I can get that out and the new one in place. Still plenty to do on brakes, need to get the new back lines in too. Amazing how sore I can get working on the car for a few hours, I'm way outta shape! Dad popped in the garage twice, once when I started and again about 4 hours later -- barely walking, with his cane, and he tells me "Don't over do it, you're not young anymore ya know". HA!

Master cylinder tomorrow, and maybe back brake lines and hose. Did I mention I HATE working under the car? OH, and the good news is, the front drums are in excellent condition, barely showing any wear at all, so I won't need to be replacing them. One less part to wait for!

Progress, slow but sure.

timinbovey

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Guest Bluesmobile

Just discovered your post about your car, really neat, thanks for sharing. I have to say that the photo of the Buick and the cabin is one of the best 1950's photos I have seen. Is the cabin still standing?

post-42927-143139159208_thumb.jpg

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Tim, I love this story! I am glad you never sold that car in 07. What a beautiful car, and a great family too! You may be sore from working on the floor, but you're a very lucky guy! Keep at it friend. Next years BCA National Meet is within driving distance for you.

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Guest timinbovey

I think I've been slacking off a bit on the updates here. Spent a good three days on my back on the garage floor working on the car. Damn my arms, shoulders, waist and everything else hurts! Not used to working above me!

The last of the brake parts are in. All new lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, etc. New rear drums, front drums showed very minimal wear so they're going back in. Front drums aren't on yet as I haven't been in the mood to repack the wheel bearings yet! New master cylinder is in too. Next week I'll get the front drums on, make some preliminary adjustments, and fill with fluid, bleed, and see what happens. (That's the brakes bleeding, not me!)

Wheels have been sandblasted and painted, hopefully sometime next week I'll get the new tires mounted. I also removed the broken stabilizer (sway bar) from the front, and have started checking around to find one.

Turns out the guy at the sandblaster shop has an identical '51 Roadmaster sitting in his yard! It's really trashed, floor completely rusted out, front clip is off, hood is laying in the woods. But there's a tarp over the engine, and he said he's been letting his 14 year old kid take it apart and mess with it to see what he can learn about cars! I may see if he can salvage the stabilizer for me, although judging from how far it's sunk into the ground that may or may not be a good idea! But might be a source for a few other doodads as well, although our car is complete, but ya never know.

Getting very anxious to get it back on the ground and start working on the top side of the car! Plan to order an exhaust system tomorrow. What's left on the car now is more rust than metal. In fact, it's barely more rust than holes! Sure is a lot simpler than exhaust on a modern car! Then I should have most of the under the car stuff done! (I hope).

Tim in Bovey

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