1938 MECHANICAL BRAKE SHOES SAME AS FORD??

Hi gang, I need tip, I gotta believe that 36-38 LZ mechanical brakes are

interchangeable with another brand auto..anyone know?? I need a set of shoes, but I may have to rivet my own..

2nd question..

I have access to tools and parts..rivet my own shoes?? what do y'all think? I guess it is old school...I am kinda middle old school..always replaced shoes already done..

(pictured shoes are ford, they have a split hoop on one end)

Jeff, although the '37-'38 ford brake shoes will fit the Zephyr drums the "business" ends of the shoes are different. The Bendix brakes used on the Zephyr operate differently and the levers used to apply the primary shoe may not work on the Ford shoe. Other mounting holes may not line up either?

I think you'd be much better off relining (or have re-lined) the correct bendix shoe. The original linings were "woven" on the secondary shoe and molded on the primary. These brakes are better than the Ford but they still need all the help you can give them. When new these brakes were butter smooth but required frequent adjusting and would almost never stop on a straight line. I would also remove all the cables and soak them in kerosene. These cables are key to easy, smooth and even braking. May have to do some searching to find someone with old time softer linimgs?

Peecher, I am always amazed at your knowledge! You are truly incredible.

Hey Jeff,,

If you can find the shoes, it aint a big deal to rivet them on. We used to do that constantly on the original VW bugs, that's how they came. I rivited the set on my 41 LC.

Tom

Jeff, although the '37-'38 ford brake shoes will fit the Zephyr drums the "business" ends of the shoes are different. The Bendix brakes used on the Zephyr operate differently and the levers used to apply the primary shoe may not work on the Ford shoe. Other mounting holes may not line up either?

I think you'd be much better off relining (or have re-lined) the correct bendix shoe. The original linings were "woven" on the secondary shoe and molded on the primary. These brakes are better than the Ford but they still need all the help you can give them. When new these brakes were butter smooth but required frequent adjusting and would almost never stop on a straight line. I would also remove all the cables and soak them in kerosene. These cables are key to easy, smooth and even braking. May have to do some searching to find someone with old time softer linimgs?

Jeff,

I have done the complete brake job on my '38 conv coupe,and am now doing a compete brake job on a '48 LC. To get the best results the WHOLE job has to be done. If you can get your hands on an old MOTORS REPAIR MANUAL ,1935-1951 is good.

Rivet only. We have several companies in the Baltimore area. Also, if you can have the new relied shoes "cam grounded"

into "cleaned up drums"; this will help. Don't forget to check all clevis and clevis pins/cotter pins. You need every bit of

mechical advantage with this set up. I find I have to adjust(minor) often. You have a heavy car and often 4 often riding in it.

Larry