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What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>


SeanR

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The part atop the full dashboard (directly beneath windshield) that contains the defroster vent. The defrost vent has to be removed first, then the dash pad (there are screws in the dash pad hidden beneath the defrost vent). There are alsoa series of snap in fasteners along the inboard edge (closest to seats) of the dash pad. Very difficult to remove without damage as the plastic gets brittle. Reatta owners journal has a tutorial on doing this that I'd suggest reading first.

The actual sensor is within a black plastic piece mounted to the undesired of the dash pad with two speed nuts on plastic standoffs. The sensor outlet is attached to a flexible black plastic tube. Be careful not to break the mounting standoffs, the plastic thedash pad is made of does not age gracefully in the heat and I cannot stress how easy it is to break it. Sensor has a short two wire harness. The plug is coverd with foam wrap that will be all deteriorated from age so get some work gloves before you mess with it or you will get gummy tar-like stuff all over your fingers. The connector has a small tang that needs to be released to unplug from the vehicle side harness.

KDirk

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Thanks, Had the dash off before. The defroster grill was tricky. I remounted it in a way that it would remove easily as I figured I would someday need to get back in there. Thankfully my dash is in good shape as the car has been garaged since it was new. Just rolled 85,000 miles. Even now I try to park in the shade when I take it out.

Every time I get into reading this forum I come up with new projects to fine tune some part of my car. I was thinking of rear struts then I read about replacing the rear brake with those from a caddy. Sounds like a great idea and may do the whole rear end rebuild soon. Struts, brakes, bushings, and anything else that may need replacing. If I didn't enjoy the projects I would sell my Reatta and take up another hobby.

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Guest my3buicks
post-30591-143143084464_thumb.jpgFinished the engine compartment today, on to reinstalling the radio and CD player and detailing the interior.

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Guest my3buicks

Thanks Brenda, after I get the radio & CD player installed and the dash back together it's all fun stuff then, detail the interior, clay bar, SwirlX and Wax the red and a few other little odds and ends. I feel like I am actually on schedule lol.

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Finished the engine compartment today, on to reinstalling the radio and CD player and detailing the interior.

Looks way cleaner than my (14k mile) car!

What do you recommend for cleaning up the aluminum alternator case and surrounding mounting brackets?

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Guest my3buicks

I used Eastwood Aluminum Prep & Cleaner with some steel wool. I just lightly cleaned them as I wanted to retain the cars original appearance an not make the aluminum to bright and shiny

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Guest my3buicks

Got the CD player and radio reinstalled today and everything works perfectly - now on to clean and detail the interior.

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I took my car to a weekly show on Saturday night (tonight). I get lots of love and attention and people really like Buick's two seater. The GM proving grounds were here and I have the chance to talk to many former GM employee's and contractors. They sure like this car!

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Guest my3buicks

What's not to like about a 91 white convertible with red interior - a certain people pleaser without question!!!!

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Thanks Keith! I love detailing my cars as much as driving them but I must admit, you have me beat hands down, your car looks absolutely stunning. The best way to really enjoy your car is to give it a good detailing every now and then. How many times have you went to sell a car (or house or whatever) and gave it a good cleaning to get a better price. Afterward you look at it and wonder why your selling it! :)

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Guest my3buicks

Got the clay bar done and the Meguiar's Swirl X done. The clay bar left it glass smooth but not that much dirt in the paint, I can reuse the bar on my daily driver. Really impressed with the Meguiar's Swirl X, really did what it was supposed to do. Can't wait to get a couple coats of wax on now.

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Removed the applicque from the tonneau cover on the 'vert today and redid the vinyl covering. The original covering was damaged where the top stack had made contact while being raised or lowered. Also had a couple of small bubbles where the adhesive let go and some minor marks here and there.

The old stuff came off cleanly, to my surprise. Applied new beechwood tan sierra grain vinyl with DAP Weldwood HHR contact cement. Did it outside in the sun so the vinyl was more pliable and easier to stretch. Finished up by using a wallpaper roller to get the lumps out and melting the corners and ripples at the curves flat on the underside of the fiberglass form.

Then washed the car for the first time since it came out of winter storage. Looks good but I really need to get the paint work underway.

KDirk

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Guest my3buicks

Just finished two coats of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 - I can't wait to get it outside in natural light. I should be totally completed with the car by late this eve - I'm worried about the trip to Virginia Beach though, open trailer with chance of rain predicted for the trip.

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Guest my3buicks

By hand, no, it does not get very chalky when dry and wipes off VERY easily. I did the whole car, left it go about 1/2 hour and then wiped it off. There was also no residue dust that you often have with waxes. They recommend two thin coats as to one heavy one. I am not a buffer fan, I have used them on bad paint, but prefer to use my hands.

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Guest my3buicks
post-30591-143143095179_thumb.jpgWell, got her loaded and ready to go - I am searching for a window where it will be dry here when I leave and dry in Virginia when I get there, but it's not looking real promising of making the trip dry. The car was never driven in the rain so it is especially painful that it may get it's first slopping up.
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Hot dog! FINALLY got the spare time to install the nice set of B-U-I-C-K chrome tail light letters that I bought last November.

Removing the old ones was quick and easy. I used a dental pick to pry it loose, then carefully pulled it away. Cleaning out the old black backing tape and adhesive took about an hour. Last step was to thoroughly clean the recessed areas with rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip.

I then used 3M 08061 plastic and emblem adhesive to glue the new letters in place. They already had the original black backing on them, which was in pretty good shape, so I carefully applied the adhesive with a Q-tip and set them into place.

While I had the old letters out I once again polished the plastic tail light lens with Semichrome.

I'm happy to report the whole thing has never looked better since I've owned the car.

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Good deal Bob, congrats and I am glad it went without drama. I just recently did mine as well. I had my car's tail light buffed out at a local body shop. I too removed the letters, cleaned the recessed areas and re-glued the letters to the now clear and shiny tail light lens. My letters were not new so I used some emblem tape and cut it to shape for the letters. Not fun and time consuming. I added some emblem glue as well even thought the tape is already sticky. I wanted to little guys to stay put for years and years to come. Like your car, mine now looks GREAT from behind.

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Guest my3buicks

That is one of the quickest ways to improve the outward appearance of a Reatta. I know when I did the one on the black coupe, I was shocked at what a difference polishing the taillight and putting a new bright set of Buick letters on it made

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Put the Black away and got out the Red and the 'vert. Before the Black went to sleep, swapped out a fog light bulb and serpentine belt. Later this summer I will go back and vacuum it out and wash/wax so it is ready when I need it next fall.

The Red also needs a serpentine belt,will do that today or tomorrow. I took all 3 cars in for radiator flush n fills and the tech thought the belts should be swapped. Easy to keep track of regular mainteance if I do all the cars at the same time.

No codes on either the Red or the 'vert, air works, so other then some light detailing and a wash/wax looks like I am ready for a summer of Reattas...

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Guest HuevosRanchero

Not very sexy but I got my hood struts replaced, Practically destroyed the bolts in the upper mount brackets. No rust and i had the correct t30...which i twisted nearly in half. One more thing to cross off the list. Projects are getting smaller.

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Plugs, Wires, Oxygen sensor and serpentine belt all replaced today. Still running a little rough. Going to clean the fuel injection system next.

I have all the parts to change out the front sub-frame bushings and also a whole rear end change-out. (I have one mount getting rotted on the drivers side and the lower control arm on the right side needs help.) I plan to do those soon.

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
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The Red's serpentine belt actually had a "split" it running in two seperate parts of the belt so it was pretty bad. Also noticed the antenna was not going up all the way. Good thing I had backstock on the So once again I should be caught up, although I am considering a recoat on the Red's taillight.

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Guest PontiacDude210

Got my sunroof coupe aligned with all the front end work I've done. I'm very happy with how it handles. Thanks to the Reatta Store for having the right parts and great pricing, and with Amazon prime I get it all 2 day shipped.

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Did the antenna tonight. Good thing I had two backstock units. The one I took off a Roadmaster is all wrong for a Reatta. If anyone needs one for a Roadmaster let me know as I will let it go cheap. Barney I will bring the one I took off to the Reunion. You can have it as a core. It only goes up a little bit, but then always comes down.

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