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Modified 54 Skylark


Guest 54fins

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We all like to see a nice restoration, but they can be a pain for the car buff that actually wants to drive the car. Just cant put the dogs on a 15K jenkins interior! Cloth is alot more comfortabe in the sun. Why worry about scratching a 10K paint job? flat black primer is easy to maintain. The chrome might even work with it.

With the front clip off, an old buick with radials handles quite well. Going with fuel injection and and an updated tranny. The idea is to keep the car looking original but ready to drive cross country. I don't want to mod the body, but building a separate frame. When it is ready (probably next year) I can then paint the body before dropping it on. I have a 425 with a TH400, but I'm debating a 700R4 for the overdrive. Probably use a leaf spring rear end, but a 4 link might be the way to go.

I may just keep the front end, but drop the car an inch or 2 and disk brakes. Also an adjustable steering column. we are doing a meet in Denver July 11th

'53-'54 Buick Skylark Club for those that can't make the trip to Charlotte. We will be doing an estes park cruise. that is an ambitious cruise for 50's cars so I may have a flat bed just in case!

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  • 3 months later...
Guest 54fins

Ah, a frame on is the only way to go. Building a modified frame for it but it will be a rat rod for a year or 2. Just hand cleaning the parts, rustoleum rust converter and flat or satin rattle cans. The flat black accentuates the chrome but the wife isn't too crazy about it. I'll try it for a year, then it can get painted when the modified frame is done.

Working on a sound system. Keeping the wonderbar for AM, but I'll have the speaker grill swing down to expose a touchscreen- GPS, Bluetooth etc. but hidden away. Also thinking that the defroster core could become the ac chiller and do something subtle.

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Guest 54fins

My buddie was kind enough to store my 425 nailhead in his 35 chevy. He has a chevy engine, but it gave us a good idea on dims and mount points. the 400 tranny doesn't have overdrive, so I have to decide if I want to use a 700R4 or a 200. Rebuilt 200's are pretty reasonable, but I've got lots of time to decide. the 400 is a nailhead version and perhaps a tall rear end would be fine. The gear vendors overdrive is pretty expensive.

This one was well done, but I have to take issue with not using the hood ornament and the SKYLARK letters on the trunk. Looks like he had a nice spot for the AC condenser. The nice thing about 50's cars is there is plenty of room for whatever you want to do. I heard he used low profile tires and larger wire rims.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest 54fins

With just sealer, magnets stick like glue. It's all metal.

And you can write with chalk. This is going to be fun!

now the stereo and car computer. Looks like Buick put a nice double din hole for the speaker.

I hear Jenkins is up to 15K on the interior. My cloth is mighty comfy, 2K and that's because they had to sew in all the waffles, but includes installation. Don't worry, Nothing will be done that can't be undone:p

Just had to use a 55 redline speedo. You get a trip meter too!

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  • 1 month later...

had to use a visible fuel filter, but old school with a glass bowl. chrome valve covers, playing with the paint peeling back over the chrome. Big intake muffler hides the motor, need to find a smaller intake.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Bill Miller

I should probably keep my mouth shut since it's really none of my business, but why on earth would anyone want to modify a '54 Skylark? Restored to original the car is worth in the $125K+ range. As a rod it's worth what somebody will pay for it, certainly considerably less, and it wouldn't have cost much more to restore it correctly. Please at a minimum keep all the original parts big and small so somebody in the future can put it back correctly.

Bill

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no, that is a very good point!

the frame will be set aside, and nothing will be done that can't be undone. The restoration is a long and expensive road. You can figure on spending 6 figures. Every time you drive it, it is reverting back to a #3. Now I did have a 10 year midlife crisis with my yellow car, but now I need more. I need to feel the wind in my hair as I drive to the top of pikes peak in a Skylark, not sit in the garage with a toothbrush cleaning the Kelsey hayse wheels. I need to take the 15K for the Jenkins interior and do a trip to Cancun. I need to feel Air conditioning when it's 100 degrees outside. But the 54 Skylark is still my favorite.

I also need the shock factor. Yes, I need a good stereo, a beer holder and the dogs also like cruise nights. But someday I can always do the retoration, enshrine the car in a garage where I can bring visitors over to gawk at it in our wheelchairs. For now, I'm going to do it my way- less money, more fun. oh yes, I have tons of parts stored away. I even keep old gaskets, original fabric pieces, original titles etc. I'll be out there on the judging field. I am all for the judging, but doing a 6 figure car is a bit too much at this point. My goal is to drive to the nationals in the car on the absolute lowest budget possible and enter the "Buick my way" class, at least for 2013. It's just where I'm at right now. I hope you can see that I' am trying to keep it "old school; only Buick parts and parts within 10 years of the car's age. Also, nothing that can't be undone and keeping the car look as original as possible, while improving comfort and safety. Also, minimizing expenditures. No new chrome, leather interiors, fancy paint etc.

My wife asked me who I'm going to please with it. My answer was me- she understood.

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don't get me wrong- I know people that have a huge building, a barn, a warehouse etc full of some extremely fine cars. I love restoring virtually anything and there is a huge pride in doing a 400 point car (At least trying), or anything as perfect as possible. But I'm also pragmatic. Driving the car is more fun than staring at it. Detailing can also wear on you, as a points car requires a week of cleaning just for a show. There becomes a point where you need to do the car for yourself.

I really don't mind the divergent views, I enjoy them. I also enjoy not washing the car.

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We both see things alike. I did have a 'my way' that was also a point car. Now, my dream is to have a 'my way' car trailer my 'your way' car the last ten miles to a Buick National and have a car in two classes.

Dan '57-76C

'57-56R

no, that is a very good point!

the frame will be set aside, and nothing will be done that can't be undone. The restoration is a long and expensive road. You can figure on spending 6 figures. Every time you drive it, it is reverting back to a #3. Now I did have a 10 year midlife crisis with my yellow car, but now I need more. I need to feel the wind in my hair as I drive to the top of pikes peak in a Skylark, not sit in the garage with a toothbrush cleaning the Kelsey hayse wheels. I need to take the 15K for the Jenkins interior and do a trip to Cancun. I need to feel Air conditioning when it's 100 degrees outside. But the 54 Skylark is still my favorite.

I also need the shock factor. Yes, I need a good stereo, a beer holder and the dogs also like cruise nights. But someday I can always do the retoration, enshrine the car in a garage where I can bring visitors over to gawk at it in our wheelchairs. For now, I'm going to do it my way- less money, more fun. oh yes, I have tons of parts stored away. I even keep old gaskets, original fabric pieces, original titles etc. I'll be out there on the judging field. I am all for the judging, but doing a 6 figure car is a bit too much at this point. My goal is to drive to the nationals in the car on the absolute lowest budget possible and enter the "Buick my way" class, at least for 2013. It's just where I'm at right now. I hope you can see that I' am trying to keep it "old school; only Buick parts and parts within 10 years of the car's age. Also, nothing that can't be undone and keeping the car look as original as possible, while improving comfort and safety. Also, minimizing expenditures. No new chrome, leather interiors, fancy paint etc.

My wife asked me who I'm going to please with it. My answer was me- she understood.

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Very cool. I was thinking of the same thing! A hitch, towing in a points car gotta love it. Why not bring in a work in process for the my way class? That's what mine is

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There isn't ANYONE that can say for CERTAIN that a modified 54 Skylark wouldn't demand and get a price HIGHER than an original.

It only takes one buyer, and let's not forget, THE ONLY ONE THAT NEEDS TO LIKE THE CAR IS THE OWNER, period.

Have at it my friend. Personally having owned a new 54 Lark, the 53 is a cooler piece. IMO

Dale in Indy

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If you watch the auctions, the modifieds (tastefully done) are really hot. I think alot of buyers want to drive them. Not everyone has a warehouse or a museum. Now some people like a 53 over a 54. Personally, I gotta have chrome fins- just sayin!

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While I agree that resto-mods can fetch more money than their restored counterparts, it is absolutely true that there are certain cars that defy that logic. Even though the professionally (and extremely well done) done modified 53 Skylark for James Hetfield (of Metallica fame) was very well done, I'm not sure that it would get the ROI of a restored 53. To play devil's advocate with myself (as I am oft-times prone to do) it IS your car. 54 Skylarks are my well documented favorite car of all time, so just do it justice. I look forward to seeing it, just as much as I enjoyed seeing your restored yellow 54 in Co Springs.

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For myself, i consider the "modified" version as simply work in process. Eventually, it will coalesce into the "as original" museum piece. Now that I know what to do, and have a pretty good idea what "correct" is, that can come down the road. My taillights were horribly pitted, so they warped in reconstruction. Down the road, I would just buy a set from Ken. I have a set of KH wheels, nice ballast but they will eventually be restored. I have a correct front seat, someday when I get hold of some waffle leather I'll have a correct interior done. The frame can be set aside and I have a code 7 block to build. I can live with a small crack in the windshield. It's just too much time and money at this point. But what I have is in good shape, can be done reasonable and will keep the look and feel. I'm not into completely modded, at least for Buicks. Shaved, frenched etc just cuts out all the stuff that makes the car cool to begin with. Now I do like an open driveshaft, some tunes and improved handling. I'm going to use 322 valve covers to make the 425 look as close to a 322 as possible. Now the flat black is a real dellima, but I really don't want to put on good paint until it's ready to be a trailer queen. It's preserved, usable, work in process being stored as a modified unil I have my maxlife crisis. Here's my 425 with a 400 tranny. It will go into a modified 54 frame, that way the body will pop right on and use all the same mount points. When museum day comes, the body can be repainted and I can deal with those issues then.

there is a fine line between a hot rod and a clown car. I can venture into modifieds but there is stuff I won't do.:eek:

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Personally, I don't like the "resto-mod" momenclature. What I like might be more "resto-enhanced" in nature. Which would include many of the same things you've done, plus what I term "incognito upgrades". The radial tires would be fine for most people not in a judging issue, but having some which would be more correct-appearing rather than white letter versions would be operative. Electronic ignitions and the newer plug-n-play bolt-on injection systems can be done stealthily, too, with a certain degree of finess . . . looks stock until you look closer sort of thing. The sort of things which bring out those . . . "I've been wanting to do that with my car! How's it work out?" . . . comments from in-the-know weekend cruise event spectators. Suddenly, that "old Buick" becomes one of the neatest vehicles at the event, to a LOT of people, which can only be positive for the hobby and the marque.

I think that one of the reasons the tastefully-done "resto-mod" vehicles are seeing an increase is that the typical buyer is of a younger age demographic who is not mechanically inclined. Therefore, the maintenance-free aspects of modern vehicles, when combined with the style and elegance or prior times, can tend to apeal to them. But when that kind of vehicle starts becoming more of a "cut and hack" sort of vehicle, just to have a particular vendor's brand of hvac system, rather than a good factory system in it's original configuration, for example, that puts me out of the loop . . . especially if it looks "added-on" . . . but that can depend upon if factory a/c was a popular option when the vehicle was built. In other words, I'd not have issues with it on a '55 Buick, but a '65 I would.

Sound systems? Sometimes it seems that we've all gotten too used to great-sounding radio/tape units in more modern vehicles. But there are some songs that just sound better on the old AM radios (with good speakers!) than on anything else. Kind of like that warm sound which home tube-type amps could provide, which transistorized "solid-state" amps never really could. When those older cars were new, it was always fun to see what distant stations they'd pickup at night. So I guess I'd be more inclined to keep a factory radio and upgrade the speakers . . . but those newer "old factory faceplate - modern guts and amps" radios sure look enticing. And with some of the www.trueoldies.com stations being on AM, being near one of them might be the crowning touch for an older car with a good AM radio.

I totally concur with your orientations on interiors and paint, for now. That chalkboard paint scheme might be "rat-roddy" to many, but it can also be a good preservative for future correct-color paint jobs. Plenty of build thickness there to sand it glass smoooooth, primer/seal it, and lay down some great new paint onto a known-good base. Not unlike the old "hot rod primer" spots on in-process rebuilds/upgrades, back in the '60s and such.

Progress and enjoy!

NTX5467

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my thoughts exactly. I have a rebuilt wonderbar for later. I have a wonderbar mechanism that works, I'm thinking about tying it into the stereo. It is cool to watch it seek stations. Also like tube radios, other than the hum. The speakers will be in the trunk and under the dash, no cuts on anything. I will use a modern compressor and alternator, but the ducts will be under the dash and not visible, with the evaporator in the air deflector and still use the old blower. the sound system is still up for debate.

I think the next gen doesn't quite appricate the old school stuff, and resto- mods will keep being more popular. I'm cringing at the prices I'm seeing on the "as original" cars- definitely dropping. Hate to see that aspect get lost, ultimately the history is important. But, there will always be people that appreciate original. But i gotta admit, when i see a very tastefull resto-mod that is hard to distinguish from Original, I do like them. There are some compromises if you are going to use it as a daily driver for safety and performance. Once they really start in with chopping stuff up, flames, etc. i start to get bored. Too many 30's Fords with a small block Chevy- you can wear some things out. I would rather see a leftover carcass turned into a hot rod than crushed. Mr Earl (the car) is a parts gold mine, but i just can't cut a good car up.

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  • 5 months later...
Guest 54fins

I like the "retro-enhanced" label- might have to use that. Right or wrong, it is what it is- don't be surprised if you see 54 Skylark heading down route 66! I now got to slice up a rust bucket century. The pans had been redone so many times- sad, the time and effort that went into this car. Some cars just need to be parted out so they do not haunt the hobby, being resold on EBAY as a rust free car- even some pretty astute buyers fall for that one all the time. But anyone needing a very good dynaflow and rear end for a 54 century, it's all pulled and hoping to save a worthy car. I have decided on the 425 nailhead with the TH400- but a 275 rear end so I won't need an overdrive. Thinking 4 link, keep the original springs but dropping it down a couple inches. May need to use a 2 part driveshaft. The cowl is great, I can size it all up so it won't interfere with the body. The thought of driving through the mountains without the body leaning and the bias ply tires screaming. Imagine driving to vegas- with AC and a good sound system. 3 months might be a tad optimistic- well, all I can do is try...

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Guest 54fins

Handy building a separate frame. I can work on the convertible top, the stereo, the windows, electrics etc. and get them all settled. The speaker vent from a 55 will drop down and a computer screen will pop up. Then I have some old 8 track stuff, do I go old school on the stereo or modern? Is the computer screen a bit too much?

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  • 2 months later...
Guest 54fins

Shaft style radios have to be widened, then hacked to fit in the Buick. But the fun part is the 1965 Riviera rear end. It is a 3.08 posi, lucked out and got the big drums and the width is perfect. Also has the 5 on 5 bolt pattern for the KH wire wheels. Doing a 4 link triangulated setup-

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Guest 54fins

Oh yes, the round knobs and a little epoxy do work. You grabbed the redline speedo in St Louis- dang, I'm too slow. The inside is grey, I painted it black and wow, it is awesome and blends right in. Plus you get an odometer! Believe I'll leave the ash trays in and keep the dash looking fairly stock. Upgrading the radio while keeping the NOS radio bezel was a bit of a challenge. Hacked up several old radios. I bought a few old shaft style radios, but the 54 has a wide spread. You have to find a shaft radio with an electronic tuner so you can spread them out wider. The double din slot behind the speaker cover is perfect, but I still wanted the old volume and tuning knobs. I can still use the cassette but an auxillary input is really what you need these days. I also found that cassette adapters for auxillary sound terrible, as does FM transmitters. The only good input is straight into the pre-amp. I gotta say, doing the car my way has dramatically improved my experience. The car is more comfortable and less bothersome. It's also fun to keep the mods subtle. I still am not quite sure how the new frame will be done in 6 weeks.

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Guest 54fins

I have not used the tranny adapter, but it definitely adds some space. The 400 tranny also goes with my theory, keep it simple. I suspect that it will be such a dramatic improvement over the torque tube that the rest really won't matter.

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Good thing you chose the TH400. With the long bell block there's no easy way to bolt a 700R4 or 200R4 on the back of a Nailhead.

You wouldn't want a 200 anyway. Back when they were introduced, they would even last very long behind those emission control laden engines.

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Guest 54fins

When the 200 first came out, they had big problems. I suspect they have corrected the issues and they can build them to be quite tough. The SP 400 I understand to be one tough tranny. But I doubt this app will be much of a challenge. I don't like to get the wire wheels dirty, it's some pretty mild cruising. That torque tube back end with lever shocks just won't cut it, even for mild driving. I could probably live with the dynaflow if it had an open driveshaft so I can improve the back end.

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Shaft style radios have to be widened, then hacked to fit in the Buick. But the fun part is the 1965 Riviera rear end. It is a 3.08 posi, lucked out and got the big drums and the width is perfect. Also has the 5 on 5 bolt pattern for the KH wire wheels. Doing a 4 link triangulated setup-

Do you have enough room with the floor pan to put your upper links on top of the carrier like that? I did not on my 57 so I put them on the front.

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Guest 54fins

I noticed your top links. The 57 is way lowered, the 54 gives you lots of room. I've got a foot of travel. Also have rusted out pans that are real handy to make sure everything clears. May not even need a 2 piece driveshaft. I have a 57 and it's interesting to compare. They did quite a bit of changes on the 57. The rear end all came together easy, but had to bag the springs for coil overs. Trying to adjust the original springs is too problematic, easy to pop in coil overs and be done with it. Then I can fine tune the ride. Years of lever shocks have made me appreciate a functional rear end. This would be a difficult job, if not impossible with the body on. The 4 link triangulated was surprisingly simple and the Riviera rear was made for 50's Buicks. Now the front end may be a bit more complicated, but it is next.

Farewell torque tube, now you get rack and pinion on the front end to suit. rear end is tight! I can jump on it and it barely moves.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest 54fins

Rack and pinion front end and everything mounts a 54 to 56 buick century, special or skylark. I'll have to see how close it is to a 57 also. $3K aftermarket hot rod kit, $300 riv rear end, an old 54 frame and I did get lucky on the 425 with the SP400 tranny. Add engine mounts then take it all apart and off to the powder coater. Might come in under 6K on the whole frame and drive train but the 425 was out of a low mile electra, that was a lucky find for $600. I did get back the 600 in scrap metal so the motor was basically free. Now I must decide on a dual quad intake, EFI or just leave the 4 barrel for now.

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I can't see myself EVER going back to carbs, well with my 46 RM which is stock.

My 41 Limited with EFI is soooooooo nice. Starts so fast even in the coldest of days, great mileage, etc.

Looking good, your front end construction is so much like mine, keep at it, and enjoy the build. I loved the build process.

Dale in Indy

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Guest 54fins

and the engine drops in like it was always meant to be. 1 piece driveshaft will work fine. looks like we get to take it all back apart for the powder coater. I suspect it will handle mountain roads now.

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Guest 54fins

The rusted out cowl has served well, now it is off to recycling. The tie rod ends are too short, so it's a bit pigeon toed! Then I have to get a 5 on 5 disks for front, minor issues. It's looking like building a frame isn't too bad of a deal. Now it all goes back apart for powder coating. Comparing the original front end to the Heidts, they are fairly similar with the coil over shocks. The tubular control arms are a bit cleaner but it's not radically different. The big issue is the Buick steering box just takes up too much space. The big nailhead will barely fit around it and the solid shaft could be fatal in a head on collision. The Buick wheel is just too dang big, it's humungous. I still want an original look, so I'll be figuring out a way to use a slightly smaller wheel but still use the 54 horn and trim. The rack and pinion moves out in front of the wheels and the steering shaft gets a U joint, so the whole setup is a fraction of the size. Then I am debating moving the battery to the trunk. Looking at other 425 upgrades on 322 Buicks, I can see the space crunch on the steering box was a pretty common issue. Otherwise, the 425 isn't much larger. Then there is an issue with duel exhaust. On the 56, they moved the master Cylinder up on the cowl. The problem with that is it's a step too far, don't want to cut any original metal on the body. The exhaust needs to go right where the brake lever goes and there isn't much for options. The 400 tranny is longer but plenty skinny. The rear tranny mount moves back a foot or so but the X braces give more than ample room for the drive shaft. It looks a lot tighter on a 57, I can see why a 2 piece drive shaft would be needed. I can walk around the frame jumping on it and it barely moves. The whole platform is now solid. I could see staying with a 322, beefing up the sway bar and the Original front end working just fine. As for the back end, It is difficult to see a method of improving the existing lever shocks without major surgery

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