1933 Dodge front Fenders

Hello, new Guy here. I will probably be on here a lot. I just acquired a 34 Dodge pickup, and am starting to look for parts. I have already found out original stuff is really hard to locate. I am going to attempt to make it as original as I can. I have located a pair of front fenders off of a 1933 long wheel base Dodge car. The guy couldn't tell me what model... Can someone tell me if these will fit my 34 standard pickup? Theres my first question. I have read so many posts, and have gotten a lot of good ideas. Member 1930 got me on the right track. I'll be putting some pictures of the truck as it sits how I found it after I figure out how. I sent some pictures to 1930, maybe he can put some on until I figure that out. I read it in a post, but can't find it now that I need it. Thanks for your help, and if anyone has extra parts, let me know what you have. Do it on here or email me at shyguy6@earthlink.net

Hi,

I also have a 34 sedan and live in Australia. There are a few guys that are restoring 34s and will offer help if they can ( I may be far away but will if I can ).

I can't tell you if your 33 guards will fit but a lot of parts from 33 to 36 and on are interchangeable. My engine was beyond repair and I found a later model engine ( up the road of all places ). I have also bought parts from America and some are reproduction so I can share those with you. Looking forward to seeing you photos.

Ian

Ps. Just below the submit reply button is an area "attach files". Click on the "manage attachments" and it is here you can upload pictures. As long as they are under a certain size. Hope this helps

First set

I think this is all of them Guy

I think this is all of them Guy

that engine would be nice restored never saw the "Spit fire" logo on one before was that original??

Looks like you have your work cut out for you! Seems somebody tried a little"street rod magic" and gave up. Does it have all the original drivetrain? I have a '36 steering column you could have if it fits. Don't get dicouraged,it might seem overwelming to bring something back to life,but in the end it's well worth it! I agree with 1930,stock is best in my opinion. You don't see many of these! Good luck Jim

Thanks Jason for getting those pictures on for me, as all of you can see my work is cut out. I am still working on getting it out of the woods. I have two trailers, a Ranchero, and a Chevy pickup to drag out of the way before I can get it out of there. I don't think the Spitfire engine ever ran in the truck. It is the long one, and there looks like they may have given up trying to get some kind of radiator in front of it. Also, the transmission doesn't look right to me. I bought a Hollander interchange book off Ebay, and the Dodge truck parts book too. I have to figure out the interchange book, to see what fits what. Jim, I am interested in the steering column, if it is the right one. I s there another book somewhere that is an interchange guide for body parts and such? The Hollander one I have has very little about the trucks, and it mostly starts at 1936. I am thinking this Forum will be my best source on info. So now I need to know if the 33 fenders will fit, and a 36 steering column that Jim has will fit? Thanks members!

Has the dash been cut out? A 1934 or '35 KC(L) should have 3 large holes and 3 smaller holes for the 2 separate small instrument clusters,choke cable and throttle cable and ignition switch. The 1933 1/2 ton pickup had the dash from the 1933 car which is a large single 'square' cluster same as the car. If your truck had that version of dash instruments it's actually a 1933. I've never seen a 'naked' 1933 dash so I don't know if this hole is 1933 or not. I'm guessing. Do you have the VIN (serial number)? 8 (million) like 8,123,456.

This is a 1st Series as the doors open in the 'suicide' fashion. Near the end of '35 which is still basically the same vehicle, the doors opened normally. The front fenders are indeed compatible with '33 DP cars but I don't know about the 'long wheelbase cars'. The rear fenders are unique to the 1/2 ton trucks. Your engine is out of a post WWII Chrysler car. The Spitfire logo was a selling feature of Chrysler just after the war and the Spitfire aircraft was on everybodys mind. Your original was the 'same' but was a 'T' (truck) version of 218". There were small changes made as the 3 years unfolded but the trucks are basically the same. Even 1936 LC(L)s share a lot of mechanical stuff but the '36 body took on the looks of the 1936 car. The '33,'34 and '35 1/2ton pickups and vans all look like a 1933 car.

Thanks for the info KCL. I wasn't planning on keeping the Spitfire engine. When I was there I had only a short time to look at it. At that time I didn't realize the S/N could provide so much info, so I didn't take it down. I did notice there were two plates on the firewall, is the number stamped on the frame too, like the older cars? As you can see by the pictures, it is heavily engulphed in brush. No way could I get to the frame at all. Is the number on the right side of the outside of the frame in front of the rear spring attach point or the front spring attach. Ive read so many posts, I go back to try to find them again, and end up reading a bunch more stuff and forget what I was searching for. The dash hole looks original, and I bought the gauge cluster that fits in it off of Ebay, No gauges in it though, just the frame. It maybe a 33, I haven't picked up the title yet, he said it was a 34. I'll be getting all that info soon, then we'll know. There is the first swap meet of the year here in Washington next weekend. It is in Puyallup, close to Seattle, for two days at the fairgrounds. I will be going to that to look for Dodge stuff. Thanks for your help.

HI,

This is where my serial number is located for my 34. Check around here for yours. Again, being a pickup, maybe in a diffrent place.

Ian

Guy, remember when I told you that I would be of very limited help with your truck? KCL is probably going to be the guy with all your truck answers. We are lucky he posts here.

On closer examination I see the hole is original so the truck is a 1933 HC. H for '33,C for commercial. Dodge by the way always called any truck that used 'car sheet metal' ,basically the 1/2 tonners, to be a 'Commercial Car'. You find it in their ads from those days all the time.

The 2 plates on the firewall are: the larger plate is the basic Dodge truck manufacturers plate with the model,HC, and the serial number (VIN) stamped in to it. If it says HCL then you have a longwheelbase version of 119". The front and rear fenders are the same as all of the regular sized 1/2 tonners but the running boards and splash aprons are unique. The front fenders measure 70" along their top surface starting at the 'spear' detail at front and keeping the tape measure tight to the surface of the fender back to the heel. The 'heel' where the fender attaches to the running board is 13" across. The spear detail is unique to Dodge but plain,undetailed, Plymouth fenders will fit. Watch out. The smaller plate is the body plate from Briggs(?). It will say someting like B-1-0 LR 1234. The B10 is the body type and the LR is the sequential Line Registration number,i,e, body number. The 8 (million) serial number as indicated by Mr. Greenlaw is stamped on the left frame cheek around the rear of the front spring. However if the firewall plate is still legible you won't need to go looking for it.

You have most of the difficult parts to locate. You will almost for sure not find another set of rear fenders. I had mine repaired for a small fortune. My front ones were much worst than yours so I replaced them with a car set as they were easy to find. The dash instrument cluster should not be hard to find because it's shared with the '33 car. Mine had to be repaired because it is unique to the '34-'36 trucks and the 4 ton Airflow truck. All very rare today and no one would give up anything from their truck. Everybody seems to be restoring every Dodge truck made! Making for a very difficult time finding loose and available parts. Procede very carefully and keep everything until you're finished. Take lots of photos. The restoration will be worth it in the end because you will be likely be the only 'Glamor Era' Dodge truck at the show.

This site and the Dodge truck site has all the information and help you will need. Just ask.

Hi

I'm not sure if the long fenders fit your truck. Most of the sheet metal is the same as DP-cars but they came in 2 versions. The following text is from "The Dodge story":

" The new Dodge Series DP Six was mounted on a 111 ¼ inch wheelbase and was available in six body styles with prices starting at $595 and going up to $695. The new Series DP Six announced later in the year (April 5, 1933) also consisted of six body types with prices the same as those for the earlier series. But these latter Series DP models featured a longer, 115-inch wheelbase, and replaced former DP Series."

HC/KC trucks have 111 ¼ inch wheelbase so I guess they share parts with the short wheelbase DP. I think you should measure the length of the fenders before you buy them (and let us now if I'm right or wrong).

Then I think your truck could be from 1933 or 1934 as they should have the same instrument cluster as far as I know.

I scanned this article from Collectible Automobile december 2002 which you may find interesting.

Gunnar

Ian, Gurra, KCL, and 1930. Thanks for the information you have given me so far. It really helps a lot. I am going to measure the fenders that I have found for sale here. If they are 70 inches long and 13 inches wide, I'll be getting them. He sent me a picture of one, and it looks in great shape. I am going to attach a picture of one, hopefully, we'll see what happens. I am going up this coming week to look for numbers on the firewall, take more pictures, and see what progress has been made to clear a path to it. It looks like one way I can tell if it is a 33 or 34 is to look at the front axle. If it is tubular, it will be a 33, if it is I-Beam, it should be a 34. Thanks for the pictures of the magazine article Gurra. I wanted to see what the correct bumpers would be. It looks like the one I have the rear bumper maybe the front bumper off of something. $200 each for these fenders, is that an OK price? What do you guys think?

Hi Gunnar over there in Sweden

I have that article in the original magazine somewhere. The truck is a '33 HC as you can tell immediately by the '33 DP instrument cluster and the fact it has wire wheels. '34 started the steel artillery wheel era for Dodge and they never went back to wires. Many owners of vehicles from those years have ownerships/titles that have the model year a year later and sometimes a year earlier than the actual model that the manufacturer considered it. Chrysler started in 1933 putting out the next year's vehicles in the Fall,in November, and this has caused more than one historic collectable today to have the Fall sales date as the model year .i.e 1932 instead of 1933 etc. down through the years. Also when the dealers sold a vehicle from left over stock, the DOT/MOT was liable to put that sales date as the model year i.e. 1934 for a 1933 that 1st came out in the Fall of 1932. I know of a 1937 Plymouth PT50 truck that the guy insists is a 1936 but he is using the sale date in the Fall of '36 as the model. The Plymouth Owners Club does not recognize a 1936 Plymouth truck.

Anyways with that being said the hobby today accepts the fact the 'square' trucks,the UF/F/H series, stopped in model year 1933 when Dodge put the front end off the DP car on it's trucks. The UF/F/H model were still available but it appears they were using up parts because that was the end of them. Today just to keep things in order and so this guy gets the right parts he should call it a '1933 HC'. The '34 and '35 KCs shared a different dash and if one has one of those you would want him/her to be looking for the right model year for parts.

Also I have to correct my comment that the 1933 HCs had a 218" engine. They had the small 70 horse 189.8" six from the Plymouth cars. The DP Dodge had a 201" of 75 horse.

I've included a photo of my restored '35 KCL instrument cluster. This version was used in '34 KCs,'35KCs,'36LCs and maybe '37MCs. Also in Airflow tankers. 1938 was completely different. (The ugly black finish on the instrument panel mounting plate was the result of POR-15 losing it's mind. Since it will be out of sight behind the dash I've decided to leave it alone.)

$200 for those fenders is a steal if they are as good in person as they appear in the photo. Please don't use that magzine article as documetation for your truck. There are so many things in error on that truck I hardly know where to start. There was no woodgraining on a Dodge truck in those years. Just about everything in the engine compartment is suspect. Even the paint on the engine. Although the cars had coloured onyx gearshift knobs I'm very suspect that this truck had anything but a plain black one. In fact it's not listed as an option for these trucks. The front bumper is indeed 1934 or 1935 but since it's a 1933 HC it should have a 'center pushed out' 1933 DP car bumper. And on and on.

Hi Gunnar over there in Sweden

I have that article in the original magazine somewhere. The truck is a '33 HC as you can tell immediately by the '33 DP instrument cluster and the fact it has wire wheels. '34 started the steel artillery wheel era for Dodge and they never went back to wires. Many owners of vehicles from those years have ownerships/titles that have the model year a year later and sometimes a year earlier than the actual model that the manufacturer considered it. Chrysler started in 1933 putting out the next year's vehicles in the Fall,in November, and this has caused more than one historic collectable today to have the Fall sales date as the model year .i.e 1932 instead of 1933 etc. down through the years. Also when the dealers sold a vehicle from left over stock, the DOT/MOT was liable to put that sales date as the model year i.e. 1934 for a 1933 that 1st came out in the Fall of 1932. I know of a 1937 Plymouth PT50 truck that the guy insists is a 1936 but he is using the sale date in the Fall of '36 as the model. The Plymouth Owners Club does not recognize a 1936 Plymouth truck.

Anyways with that being said the hobby today accepts the fact the 'square' trucks,the UF/F/H series, stopped in model year 1933 when Dodge put the front end off the DP car on it's trucks. The UF/F/H model were still available but it appears they were using up parts because that was the end of them. Today just to keep things in order and so this guy gets the right parts he should call it a '1933 HC'. The '34 and '35 KCs shared a different dash and if one has one of those you would want him/her to be looking for the right model year for parts.

Also I have to correct my comment that the 1933 HCs had a 218" engine. They had the small 70 horse 189.8" six from the Plymouth cars. The DP Dodge had a 201" of 75 horse.

I've included a photo of my restored '35 KCL instrument cluster. This version was used in '34 KCs,'35KCs,'36LCs and maybe '37MCs. Also in Airflow tankers. 1938 was completely different. (The ugly black finish on the instrument panel mounting plate was the result of POR-15 losing it's mind. Since it will be out of sight behind the dash I've decided to leave it alone.)

$200 for those fenders is a steal if they are as good in person as they appear in the photo. Please don't use that magzine article as documetation for your truck. There are so many things in error on that truck I hardly know where to start. There was no woodgraining on a Dodge truck in those years. Just about everything in the engine compartment is suspect. Even the paint on the engine. Although the cars had coloured onyx gearshift knobs I'm very suspect that this truck had anything but a plain black one. In fact it's not listed as an option for these trucks. The front bumper is indeed 1934 or 1935 but since it's a 1933 HC it should have a 'center pushed out' 1933 DP car bumper. And on and on.

Like I said guy, he's the man

Hi DodgeKCL

I agree there's a lot of confusion about model years and I don't know all about it but maybe both you and I are right.

The following is from "Dodge Pickups, History and Restoration Guide 1918-1971":

1934 KC Series

Businessmen and farmers agreed with Dodge that their Commercial Cars were the "handsomest delivery cars ever seen on any highway," as the brochures stated. Indeed, the sales recovery that began in 1933 leaped ahead in 1934 in spite of the severe depression. Continuing with a good thing begun in 1933, the 1934 pickup remained the same in appearance, but was mechanically improved.

As the 1933 new models were midyear introductions, most changes for 1934 also occurred well into the new model year. The only exception was that the new models - Commercial Canopy, Commercial Screenside and Westchester Suburban - were ready at the beginning of the model year. All other changes and improvements were phased in about January 1, 1934. The front axle changed to a beefy, drop-forged, I-beam type in place of the former tubular type. Engine size was increased to a bore and stroke of 31/8x43/8 in. or 201.3 ci. Compression ratio increased to 5.8:1, increasing torque to 136 Ib-ft. The rear-axle ratio was reduced to 4.11:1 from 4.37:1. A new instrument panel was also added.

If that's true then Dodges built nov/dec 1933 still looks like a 1933 but should be registered as a 1934.

I haven't seen any official paper when the 1934 model year started so it's my conclusion.

I found that officially 1935 production started 1 October 1934 with serial number 8042422 (was it you who uploaded that document?). Anyway before I read that document I thought I had a 1934 Dodge. It says so in the registration paper but my serial number is just a little bit higher so probably its built okt/nov 1934 and should have been registered as a 1935. It has almost the same instrument cluster as yours. My Dodge is built in Sweden and I attached a very old b/w photo.

Gunnar

The internet is wonderful ain't it? I have always wondered where the rest of all those flat faced cowl and chassis went that Dodge made. Gunnar you have EXACTLY the same 1/2 ton truck I have here in Canada except mine was made at Dodge Main in Detroit. It was one of 10 ordered by a Toronto store to be made into delivery vans. Mine is the only survivor. It is stamped #9 in a couple of places. Our body type is 'B-1-0'. B for the year,1 for flat faced cowl and 0 because there is nothing beyond the cutoff cowl. This was the most basic,and cheapest, 'body' that Dodge would sell in a '33-'35 Commercial Car or anything else for that matter. Not even windshield 'A' posts. You should have an aluminum tag on the firewall saying 'B-1-0 LR XXXX'. Above that you should have a Dodge Truck tag which has KCL and the serial number stamped on it as it went down the line. Can I have a photo of those tags. Until I started making a list and matching it to owners trucks no one knew what they meant. Chrysler Historical still doesn't know and tells you so when you order a Build Sheet. My flat faced cowl is 8071921 definitely a 1935 made in Oct. 1935. My tags are quite good and the main one says 'KCL'. I will add yours to my list to further expand it.

What custom body was installed on yours? Mine is a delivery van with sliding front doors. The 2 rear doors are 'normal'. I have spent a 3rd of my life,off and on, trying to put his thing back together. My biggest problems were; it had no peers to copy or examine,it had been in TWO fires in it's life time, and I wanted to put it back in the condition and livery it was when it plied the streets of Toronto in the 30s and 40s. I have been virtually working in a vacuum. I am just about finished and it has some paint on it. The body is all wood covered in steel sheeting. I had to remake 99.9% of the wood and all the metal sheeting. It was 'just' holding together by the grace of God so I did have patterns for most of it. What was destroyed on the right side I duplicated from the left side,what was gone from the left side etc. etc. I have a wealth of knowledge pertaining to your truck. Do you have a photo of it before you started? I see some of the original wood sitting of the chassis.

It's of course Winter here and I work on it all the time. I'm retired. I do not work on it much during Summer. I have other antique vehicles already finished that I play with then. Today I'm fitting the glass tracks and winding mechanism in the two front doors.

I would like very much to correspond with you.

Hi,

I'm with KCL about the fenders for $200 ea "$200 for those fenders is a steal if they are as good in person as they appear in the photo". If they are correct for your truck and check out the underside and all looks good - grab em !

Ian

quote......good - grab em ........I wouldnt even care if they were right for your truck at that price

Gdenton, another thought is to get in touch with Harrah's Auto Restorations, in Reno (if that's still there). Many years ago, I paid $200 for everything they had on my 1928 Overland Whippet. All photocopies, but they gave me ads, manuals, parts book - everything related to that car, that year. Might be a good start. I put them all in a three - hole binder, and made "work copies".

Thanks guys for the replies. I passed on the fenders because it turns out they are fiberglass..The picture he sent I would have sworn they were steel, but then he sent another picture, and they look like fiberglass to me. I am waiting for a reply to verify that. Oh well, live and learn. I'm learning a lot just reading the posts that have posted from just one question I asked! I really appreciate it. Today I am going to get the numbers off the firewall and frame to verify if I have a 33 or 34. I went on Craigslist nationwide, a sight called Dailylister. It searches all Craigslist in the U.S. at once. There are really a lot of cars and parts available back in the East and Southeast. I am out here in the far Northwest, and Dodges are not as plentiful. Thanks for your help and bye for now, Guy

My only question would be how does anyone offer a set of fenders for sale that are fiberglass and not mention that in the first sentence? Amazing!

KCL, this are the only original body tags I have. Valbo Verkstads Aktiebolag is the name of the company who made the cab and the other tag is the line registration number as you already know. Second photo is from a local newspaper and shows what mine looked like back in the thirties but it's not mine.

When I looked for parts I found a second Dodge KCL built in Sweden but with another body. Now it's in my garage and I can show you pictures of it later or maybe start another thread. Send me a PM if you want my e-mail address.

Hi again, I got the numbers, and the Model # wasn't what I thought it would be. I was expecting a Model HC, and what I got on the Big Tag next to Model is K34...The S/N is 8359591. On the little tag under the big one it says B-2-2-LR7105. I measured the wheelbase and it is 111 inches . The running boards are 53 Inches long, and 13 inchies wide at the front, The front fender is 70 inches measuring over the top to where the running board attaches. So can one of you guys tell me what my numbers mean? Oh, and it has an I-Beam axle. Thanks again, Guy

Hi again, I got the numbers, and the Model # wasn't what I thought it would be. I was expecting a Model HC, and what I got on the Big Tag next to Model is K34...The S/N is 8359591. On the little tag under the big one it says B-2-2-LR7105. I measured the wheelbase and it is 111 inches . The running boards are 53 Inches long, and 13 inchies wide at the front, The front fender is 70 inches measuring over the top to where the running board attaches. So can one of you guys tell me what my numbers mean? Oh, and it has an I-Beam axle. Thanks again, Guy

Your serial number of 8359591 doesn't get a match on the Dodge truck decoder at Dodge Truck Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Decoder

Nor, for that matter on my Chrysler product passenger vehicle look up at Plymouth First Decade: Where is the VIN?

It is very possible that the lookup pages are wrong. But you might want to double check that serial number to see if you've got it copied down correctly.

OK here goes. Everything I have is not chiselled in granite just yet but I'm 99% sure to this point.

Guy your pickup appears to have a bogus plate on it. If it were a K-34 it would be a 1 1/2 ton truck (I think). However as Ply33 says the number doesn't come up anywhere as well. K is fine for 1934 and '35 trucks but did someone mistakenly put the year i.e. 1934 after the K? But even then the serial number does not match any records. The B-2-2 indicates a pick-up. We will have to see the stamped serial number on the left frame cheek.

Gunnar your flat face cowl and chassis had a custom pick up body on it? One would wonder why the people didn't just order a pick-up in the 1st place. BTW Dodge called them a 'Commercial Express' in their ads. The newspaper photo does indeed show a custom pick-up body installed on a B-1-0. Your body number is 'younger' than mine. Mine is LR 2428 and was built Oct. 23/1935 almost at the end of the 3 year span of these "1933" 1/2 ton trucks. Also mine has the 1936 glovebox on the right side of the dash. So I'm assuming yours is a 1934 KC. Did I read your post correctly? You have another custom bodied B-1-0 in your garage? With a different body?

Hello KCL, I looked at the serial number guide PLY33 sent. If you clik on another tab that starts at 1914-1940- you get copies of pages of S/N's. Page 15 indicates the cab of my truck, K34 is a 1 and a half ton, and the S/N falls into the range of K34 trucks if I am reading that right. I am thinking the cab on my truck has been replaced with one from a bigger truck. I couldn't find the number on the frame. I didn't look hard because I thought I had a good number on the firewall. On a truck is the S/N in front of the spring attachment on the drivers side front spring, rear attach point. I'll have to take a wire bruch on a cordless drill to get it cleaned good enough. Anyone with some hints will be appreciated. I think it is in a different place than a car because of the leaf springs, no bulb out. Thanks, Guy

The 1 1/2 tonners had bigger cabs on them which they shared with 2 ton from what I know. Also starting with the 1 1/2 ton cab the engine hood has a big sign on both sides saying 'DODGE BROTHERS' or 'DODGE'.

I went back and spent a bit of time going through the 10 photos of your truck. We'll get it right yet. I missed a couple of things. The gearshift lever and transmission tower do not follow the shape of a 1/2 ton. The rad grille has a diiferent crankhole from the 1/2 tonners. The 1/2 ton crankhole is connected to the bottom of the grille by a long stem. However the larger trucks have 'rounded ' corners on the bottom of the windshield rather than the 'sharp' corners of the 1/2 tonners which yours seems to have.

Yes your truck does appear to be listed as "K-34 1 1/2 ton Cab" with a correct serial number for that series. So several things now come up.

The truck is much bigger in the flesh than in the photos. The front fenders are most likely going to be bigger than the car fenders so you may end up repairing what you have as 1 1/2 ton fnders are going to be rare. The rear fenders appear to not have the same 'pattern' on them as the 1/2 tonners so they too will be hard to find. The serial number listing says the closing date was 'Oct. 1935' but it has the dash of a '33. Typical of CPDD manufacture in those days. Unless the cab has been switched it appears the truck has a left over '33 cab.

The serial number on the HC/KC series is stamped just behind the rear spring shackle of the front left spring. It's quite large and near the bottom of the frame face. The numerals are about 1" high and the stamping is about 6" long. The number is stamped into the steel so a wire cup brush on a drill is safe but do not use a sanding disc. If it matches the serial number you have then it is indeed a 1 1/2 ton Commercial Express pick me up.

Guy, just to clarify, is this the serial number guide that Ply33 has on his site? I was looking for something that he himself had put together.

I had asked him for clarification and never had a response so I have been un-sure. I have this book already and good to know if this is the same material. Thanks

Guy, just to clarify, is this the serial number guide that Ply33 has on his site? I was looking for something that he himself had put together.

I had asked him for clarification and never had a response so I have been un-sure. I have this book already and good to know if this is the same material. Thanks

I guess I should look at the PM on this site from time to time. I did not notice that you'd sent me a couple of messages until I read this post.

The serial number lists I have are mostly for cars so the truck coverage is not complete. Phil Street’s site, which I linked to above, has pretty good coverage of trucks with a decoder/look up facility for 1936 and later Dodge trucks. Off of that same page he has links to scanned truck serial number manual pages that might be of use for pre-1936 trucks or to check his look up form for accuracy.

Sounds to me like your best on-line source at the moment is Phil Street's site at Dodge Truck Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Decoder

Hi Guy, you have a 1 1/2 ton or 2 ton cab. If you look in the picture and compare distance A and B you can easily see the difference. Then your cab has the 2 radiator support bracket from a 1/2 ton pickup. The bigger truck has one bracket in the middle.

The grille insert is most likely from a 1933 Plymouth.

My bigger cab to the left have line registration number B-2-2-LR15001 and the dashboard is the 33' type as yours.

Gunnar

Gunnar ,I'm sure the rad shell is Dodge truck from '33,'34 or '35. Plymouth's rad shell rolled back cleanly at the top and did not have that bulbous snout. So it's settled that Guy has a 1933,'34 or '35 K-34 1 1/2 ton 'Commercial Express' pick-up. Notice the production runs from 1933 right to the end of the 3 year run in Oct. '35. I did not know that. I assume that's why it has a 1933 car instrument cluster. Gunnar's too. The books I have show my '35 instrument cluster for '34 and '35. I will have to amend my records to show that a'33 car cluster could exist right to the bitter end. Who knew? I notice also that the serial numbers in the right hand columns are 'bunched' together because mine is in line with the KC models instead of in line with KCLs. Mine on Oct. 23rd at 8,071,921 is 629 from the end which appears to be 6 days/1 week from the end. I assume the bottom 9 million numbers in each group are Canadian production in Windsor or earlier in Toronto at Graham Brothers?

KCL, I think you misunderstood me. I mean that the radiator shell is Dodge 1/2 ton (modified) but the radiator shell insert is 1933 Plymouth. Look at the upper part of the vertical bars and you can see that the slope matches Plymouth shape as well as the round crank hole.

Hi Guys, it looks like another trip to where the truck is tomorrow. I will get the s/n off of the frame, take some measurements, and some more pictures. I will try to see if the transmission is a 3 speed or 4 speed. KCL are you saying I could have a 1 and 1/2 ton regular pickup? I didn't know they made those. I am betting the frame S/N will be different from the body S/N and I have some kind of hogged together truck made at a junkyard. That is the kind of luck I have. I looked at the hood, and there were no Dodge signs on it , only vertical louvers. You guys are a great help to me, whatever the outcome is. Thanks, I appreciate it. Guy

Hello, I found a picture of a 34 2 ton pickup on the net. Wish I could see a picture of the front and side of this truck. Off I go to get the S/N off the frame, in the rain...Bye from Guy

Big trucks need love too

Dont be discouraged Guy if it is a 1.5 ton, makes it all that the more unique

Hi again, I'm back, and the results aren't good. I couldn't find the S/N anywhere on the frame that I could get to. I wire brushed the area behind the rear spring shackle of the left front wheel and got nothing.. Also, whoever, welded a plate on the inside of the frame and reattached the rear shackle below the frame. I have enclosed some pictures. Since the splash apron isn't there, I was able to look all the way down the frame, and didn't see a hint of a number anywhere. I wirebrushed the other side also, nothing there. Maybe the bigger ton trucks have the S/N somewhere else, or maybe I have some other brand frame. I have taken more pictures of the bed, transmission, and other parts that could give us some hints as to what frame is there. Also, I took the following measurements. The front face of the firewall is 19" from the bottom going right up over the data plates to the top edge of the cowl. It is 35" across the face of the firewall at the widest point. The cab is 54 inches wide measured through the inside from out side of one door to the out side of the other door at the back edge. From the bottom of the cab to the top of the roof line is 48"measuring from the bottom of the cab up through the middle of the door to the top. the bed is 57" wide at the top edge, and 63" Long.

Maybe from the enclosed pictures it will give us a direction to look. I have taken pictures of the rear fender thinking that might give a clue. Also, the front I-beam axle is really bent.

On a lighter note I found a frame with running gear and engine that runs off of a 39 plymouth pickup. The engine number is P-12-24729. Will that engine be a good period correct engine for my truck? Sorry this is so long, but it is what it is,Thanks for your help, Guy

It looks like the pictures didn't come through. Let me try again...

I may have tried to upload too many files at once or too large of ones, let me try again