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Anderson Pearson, My 1941-76C Buick Roadmaster


41Roadmaster

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Once the paint & bondo start to come off, old sins are revealed. The wheel wells are an example. As you can see in the before shot, very little metal held the fenders in place (left.) The rust was cut out and new steel was welded into place for a permanent fix (right.) The fenders had to be regularly checked for fit.

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I've posted this in Pre-War, but thought I'd post it here too. I'm curious to know if anyone has information on this:

I've noticed my bumper guards are marked "Guide, Made in USA" but I've seen others marked simply "Made in USA." Is one considered aftermarket? Any input would be appreciated.

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Edited by 41Roadmaster
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I've posted this in Pre-War, but thought I'd post it here too. I'm curious to know if anyone has information on this:

I've noticed my bumper guards are marked "Guide, Made in USA" but I've seen others marked simply "Made in USA." Is one considered aftermarket? Any input would be appreciated.

Not sure what happened to the several helpful replies folks posted. Looks like the website has been updated, so maybe they were lost. Anyway, got my answer. Sounds like these were made by Guide, BLC for GM. Thanks for the help!

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While I'm thinking about it...and have my camera,

Pictured left are the two door lock knobs that came on my car when I bought it (yeah, they're different.) To the right is a knob with envelope I picked up at a swap meet (perhaps NOS) that was listed as being correct for my car.

The repro knobs that Bob's sells looks like the 1st knob (I bought a set a few years back.) Anyone have any info on which would be correct? Just curious, thanks.

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I've been restoring as many bits and pieces as time, energy and talent allow. An example, is the underdash heater/defroster. Luckily, the unit worked well (a little squeaky...), so it just needed to be cleaned and oiled. The fins needed to be staightened then each part needed to be primed/painted. I re-sheathed the wiring with heat shrink tubing.

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Looking good Anderson! Nice attention to detail. Matt

Hey, thanks Matt. Funny I just left you a message about how great your upholstery is looking. Unfortunately for me, while at the BCA Meet this weekend, I realized the brown I painted the defroster last week isn't quite dark enough. I took a photo of a defroster with the correct color to use as a guide. Live and learn!

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Guest shorttimer
While I'm thinking about it...and have my camera,

Pictured left are the two door lock knobs that came on my car when I bought it (yeah, they're different.) To the right is a knob with envelope I picked up at a swap meet (perhaps NOS) that was listed as being correct for my car.

The repro knobs that Bob's sells looks like the 1st knob (I bought a set a few years back.) Anyone have any info on which would be correct? Just curious, thanks.

FWIW, the '41 76C I sold several years ago had the 1st type.

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Does anyone remember a BCA member with the last name "Hetzel"?

His name is etched on the back of almost every chromed piece of my 1941-76C. So far, I've only been able to trace ownership back to the early 1990's and his name hasn't come up yet. He obviously spent some money because almost all of the chrome still looks great.

Just trying to piece together the history. Any leads would be appreciated.

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Anderson,

Looking good. It's nice to see a fellow "convertible restorer" hard at it. Can't wait to see some paint threwn about! Matt

Matt & Keith,

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys! But right now, George McNeil and Bob Wagoner under the watchful eye of Lewis Jenkins are the ones "hard at it." I wish could do more of the work myself (heck, I wish I could do it ALL!), but my time, space and talent are limited. But I'll be sure to pass along your sentiments :o

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...but I now have winders!

My window winders aren't too bad, but they could use some attention. They really need to be sent to a refinisher to have the dents and pits removed and then replated ($$$), or I needed to find some in better condition ($$). The resin knobs are cracked and some are starting to crumble (the best one is pictured.) I've kept an eye out for original replacements but these buggers are hard to find!

So I decided that I will use reproductions until I can find suitable originals or restore mine. I purchased a set of reproduction winders from Bob's and they look pretty close to original, although the sides have chamfered angles versus the rounded originals. Unfortunately, Bob's winders only come with chrome knobs, not the resin knobs I need. So I bought a set of reproduction resin knobs from Skip Boyer (by the way, thanks Skip!)

I cut out the chrome knobs, and installed the repro resin knobs using a two part epoxy (to hold the center-set a machine screw) and finished them off with screw sleeves from my local hardware store. Voila!

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Neat solution, Anderson. I have the same kind issue with my '41 coupe, but mine is Canadian (ie. McLaughlin Buick) production, and they use a square fitting on the shaft, instead of the spline type that the US cars use, and right now I've got a mis-mash of winders handles..

Keith

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  • 2 weeks later...

I didn't realize I had two different sized winder escutcheons (thanks to Grandpa, here on the forum, for pointing it out!)

It seems the longer window winders have a taller escutcheon, presumably to keep the end of the winder off of the door panel. Luckily, I have both of mine, but one is pretty beat up. $ounds like another item for refini$hing...ugg.

The first "side-by-side" photo is one I found on Bill Anderson's website. If you guys haven't visited the site, it's well worth it:

Anderson Automotive Enterprises

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Both my dash panels and instrument gauges needed some attention. I sent the dash panels to Doug Seybold for fresh engine-turning, and then opened up my gauges to see how they were put together and what could be cleaned and what needed to be replaced.

After a good Q-tip cleaning, the resin on all the gauges still showed alot of discoloration. The copper had some dark spots, and the off-white paint on the back side of the glass had dried, cracked and popped out of the recesses.

I decided to replace with NOS for temp, fuel & oil (paid dearly for them, but they are MUCH better.) I gently cleaned the copper with brasso and it finished up nicely. I then popped out all of the off-white paint from the glass and re-painted (I found that Testers model paint #1117 Light Ivory is a near perfect match!) I did all this in the living room on the coffee table...needless to say my wife is glad that little project is over.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a few shots of the painting so far. Mostly still wet sanding at this point, but now I can finally begin to see the car as one color again. I'm very pleased with the Lancaster Grey.

I've seen some owners change out the body plate so that their cars appear like they were always their color. But I decided to leave a "paper trail" of sorts for any future owners as to the original "Royal Maroon" color. If I ever decide to show it, I guess I'll have to take the hit. Oh, well...

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Hi Matt,

No, they just loosely installed the fenders at my request, so I could get a better idea of the finished result. They took them off after I took my photos. I learned that Jenkins actually makes their own fender welting. It is alot thinner than most you can buy, and more correct to the car. Small details like that is why I'm glad to have some experienced help.

You're right though, it wouldn't provide a good paint result if the fenders were left on ; ) When I was younger I had a beater 1949 Dodge Wayfarer business coupe, and decided to put an inexpensive paint job on it. Just about everything was left on it...fenders, doors, glass, etc...and of course, it all started peeling within a year or so. Lesson learned on that one.

Anderson,

I am surprised that they painted with rear fenders on? I know that the fender welt goes in between, but might it cause an issue with possible chipping of paint? Or are they just going to loosen the bolts and slip the welt in? Looks great. I am learning ins and outs for my paint.........Matt

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Looking good, Anderson. In BCA judging you will NOT take a hit on having the paint on the car not match that of the Body Plate. As long as the paint on the car is one that was available for 1941 Buicks, no non-authenticity deduction will be made. You're in good shape there!

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Thanks Keith, much appreciated. Its a shot in the arm after so much preparation. I swear I've never seen so much prep work on a car...but I'm glad its done. I'd really like to be out driving in this beautiful late summer weather but it looks like I will need to wait for fall. Get out and enjoy yours for me!

Looking very very nice, so far. Its' really nice to see one colour again after all the primer, etc.

Keith

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Anderson;

Thanks for the thanks. Having done body and paint myself, the success (or failure) is generally in the prep work. If that's not good, it doesn't matter how nice the final spray job is, it will look like c.... I haven't driven my '41 for a couple of weeks, but hope to have it out on the weekend. I'll try to post a shot of me and my coupe for you.

Keith

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Thanks Keith, much appreciated. Its a shot in the arm after so much preparation. I swear I've never seen so much prep work on a car...but I'm glad its done. I'd really like to be out driving in this beautiful late summer weather but it looks like I will need to wait for fall. Get out and enjoy yours for me!

Hi neighbor! I see your in Charlotte as well.

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Calling all '41 convertible owners...

Anyone sure which of these mirrors is correct for my Roadmaster convertible? I thought I had this one: The first image is the one that came with my car. The second is a reproduction I bought from Bob's (listed as correct for a '41-76C, although it doesn't have a "Made in USA" stamp...and we all know why.)

But then I saw the last mirror, also listed as correct for my car. This last mirror also has a "gold tone" mirror face, which neither my original nor Bob's has. The chrome ribs do not extend the whole mirror as the others do.

Any guidance would be helpful.

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Anderson;

I can't give you a definitive answer, but I'll tell you what I do know. Sadly, I dropped my original mirror, which had a plain back, and wasn't a day/night type. But I was able to buy an original GM day/night mirror for my car. It has the "gold tone" mirror with the full width chrome "bars" across the back. I cannot be sure that it is correct for a '41, thou it is, I believe, a correct GM piece.

I have been puzzled by the gold coloured glass, as I don't know if something in the makeup of the glass or mirror has aged, and has turned gold over the years, or if was made that way, for glare reduction.

Keith

Edited by Buicknutty
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