Jump to content

Anderson Pearson, My 1941-76C Buick Roadmaster


41Roadmaster

Recommended Posts

Anderson,

The correct Guide Glare-Free inside mirror for a 1940 - 1941 GM car is pictured. This mirror differs in design from the later Guide mirrors because the bezel and mirror are tilted as an assembly. The later designs tilts the mirror only. The gold tint was available on all of the Guide mirrors, but was evidently offered at a higher price.

An over-the-counter parts store universal Guide mirror was also offered in the 1940 - 1941 mirror. These Guide mirrors have a painted back and a two piece mounting stud to accommodate different mirror mounting positions. A picture of the painted back mirror is also included. Note that the back is not marked Guide. However, the flipper tab is marked Guide (unlike the chromed back version).

Guide mirrors with ribs on the back are postwar versions. A picture is attached that shows the design variations through the years.

Grandpa

post-52807-143139150687_thumb.jpg

post-52807-143139150693_thumb.jpg

post-52807-143139150704_thumb.jpg

post-52807-143139150724_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Grandpa, what a tremendous help!

I guess I'll add yet ANOTHER needle-in-the-haystack search :rolleyes:

Anderson,

The correct Guide Glare-Free inside mirror for a 1940 - 1941 GM car is pictured. This mirror differs in design from the later Guide mirrors because the bezel and mirror are tilted as an assembly. The later designs tilts the mirror only. The gold tint was available on all of the Guide mirrors, but was evidently offered at a higher price.

An over-the-counter parts store universal Guide mirror was also offered in the 1940 - 1941 mirror. These Guide mirrors have a painted back and a two piece mounting stud to accommodate different mirror mounting positions. A picture of the painted back mirror is also included. Note that the back is not marked Guide. However, the flipper tab is marked Guide (unlike the chromed back version).

Guide mirrors with ribs on the back are postwar versions. A picture is attached that shows the design variations through the years.

Grandpa

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, its starting to look like a car again! I was on the fence until the last second about changing the color of the car, but now that I can see it all together I'm very pleased with the result. The pictures really don't do it justice (I guess because I was so excited, my hands were a bit shakey with the camera!) You can also see some of the firewall items starting to be re-installed. I feel like a real milestone was achieved :)

post-75951-143139166612_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166617_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166623_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166628_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166635_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166639_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166644_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166648_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166652_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone needs new door hinge springs, here is a good contact. He uses a stronger steel than originals.

Like so many others, mine were broken off and sitting at the bottom of the door post. With these replaced, my doors can be held open in two positions as designed. No more free-swinging doors! Here are some photos of mine after painting and installation on the hinge.

Duane Knauss

1719 Marcella Height Drive

Carroll, Iowa 51401

(712) 792-4272

post-75951-143139166657_thumb.jpg

post-75951-14313916666_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139166664_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
This car is looking fantastic Anderson. You will have a knock out vehicle when done. Love your attention and comittment to the details.

Thanks John. I've been wanting to do this restoration for 10+ years, so it feels good to finally see some action. And I'm very thankful to have the help and encouragement of the forum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone needs a good contact for the convertible door flippers, here's who I used. He provides the chrome flipper, new springs and a felt insert. The inner liner (pictured center) is from my original flipper. Beautiful work!

<st1:PersonName w:st="on">Penn Lenson</st1:PersonName><O:p</O:p

<st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">39250 Green Meadow Road</st1:address></st1:Street><O:p</O:p

<ST1:p<st1:City w:st="on">Temecula</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">CA</st1:State> <st1:PostalCode w:st="on">92592</st1:PostalCode></ST1:p<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p

e-mail: pennsue@earthlink.net<O:p</O:p

post-75951-143139189767_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone needs a good contact for the convertible door flippers, here's who I used.<o:p</o

Anderson,

I am interested to know the following

1. Was it flipper only or the "track" too.

2. Have you made sure the flipper goes back to the angle necessary to allow the window to go all the way up (more on this in a sec)

3. So there was felt inside the flipper and the track? more pictures please??

The reason I ask related to my '38 phaeton:

1. I bought the flipper only (full stainless steel polished to mirror finish and very nice) from I'll choose not to name vendor that deals in repro parts

2. Mine do not go back far enough back. They hit the stops to early so I am going to have to machine the stop and have them re-polished.

3. I don't think mine are wide enough to allow felt in the flipper and let the chrome around glass slide into a felt lined flipper, but that said it makes good sense if they were felt lined.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anderson,

I am interested to know the following

1. Was it flipper only or the "track" too.

2. Have you made sure the flipper goes back to the angle necessary to allow the window to go all the way up (more on this in a sec)

3. So there was felt inside the flipper and the track? more pictures please??

The reason I ask related to my '38 phaeton:

1. I bought the flipper only (full stainless steel polished to mirror finish and very nice) from I'll choose not to name vendor that deals in repro parts

2. Mine do not go back far enough back. They hit the stops to early so I am going to have to machine the stop and have them re-polished.

3. I don't think mine are wide enough to allow felt in the flipper and let the chrome around glass slide into a felt lined flipper, but that said it makes good sense if they were felt lined.

Thanks

Hi Brian,

Here are some more photos just taken today. For your questions:

1. The "track" was not included. I had both tracks already. I don't believe Penn sells those, but you could ask.

2. Once re-assembled, the flipper goes up almost 90 degrees (see photo.) I won't know if they operate fully until I get them installed on the car, and that might be awhile...;)

3. I assumed the felt was for the inside of the track only, since my original only had felt in the track. I ended up re-using my felt since it was in surprisingly good shape. As far as I know, the felt is there to protect the chrome around the glass as the flipper rides along its edge.

I mistakenly called this a "chrome" piece. It is highly polished stainless steel as you describe. My flippers worked pretty well before the restoration, however, they never really went all the way back down without alittle help. I now have new springs, so hopefully it will be better. The reason I needed a new one is that I had a 2" long piece missing on one side.

I hope that helps. Let me know if you'd like to see these in person. It will be awhile before I take them to Jenkins.

post-75951-143139190966_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139190969_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139190974_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139190977_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I decided to redo my speedometer...again. After the first go around I realized I'd really like the odometer to be at 00000 for her maiden voyage (ah, someday...) Also, the paint on the numbers had some flaking...something that didn't bother me until I got everything else all cleaned up. I guess that's the way it goes.

So I took the opportunity to document resetting one of these. Maybe there is an easier way, but this is how I did it. First I found a doner speedometer with good numbers. After cleaning, then resetting the odometer back, I switched this unit with my old one. While I was at it, I removed the small copper plug at the base of the neck, just below the thread, and lubricated the shaft. Then glued the plug back in place. (My mechanic buddy at Jenkins made this great suggestion...thanks George!)

It took about an hour and a half, and I'm much happier with the results.

post-75951-143139202954_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202958_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202963_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202968_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202972_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202977_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202981_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202985_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202989_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139202993_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anderson, what chemical or not did you clean the numbers with? I am sure once you have the car back, you will be looking at all the little stuff more closely as will I. The car looks great. I like your choice on the color. Do you have an idea when it may be all back together?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anderson, what chemical or not did you clean the numbers with? I am sure once you have the car back, you will be looking at all the little stuff more closely as will I. The car looks great. I like your choice on the color. Do you have an idea when it may be all back together?

Hi Den,

Good to hear from you. I just used a Q-tip and warm soapy water...very gently;) (the numbers on my old odometer flaked off in my hands when I removed it, so I was super careful with my doner set.)

Regarding when I should have it back, sure, I'm supposed to have it back this past spring! In their defense, I haven't given them a specific deadline, but I go up there every 2 weeks to check on it (and pay my bill.) I always seem to add a little "while we're at it" work to the list. I'm more concerned with the quality of work than getting it back by a certain date.

When you get a chance, post some pictures of that 71-C of yours...'love to see it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Anderson,

Great job and what a great looking car, thanks for your e mail :) (for the E bay Stuff) . I will follow your progress from now on, while i am starting right now with disambling my "blue" buick SSK M41 . Ill keep the grey color of your Buick in my mind i like it in combination with silvergrey (two tone) for the future!

regards from Holland

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Here is the restored gas tank after flushing/sealing, sanding, priming and painting. New straps and a new sending unit too.

I considered just buying a new tank (a clean start, you know?), but all the ones I found have a rubber neck between the filler and the tank. I didn't like that so I decided to put the effort into restoring my original...I hope I made the right choice.

post-75951-143139233589_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139233593_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Matt. No, I'm still looking for at least one 15"X5" rim. I have four, but they are in need of some TLC, so I was really hoping to find better ones. I've had some guys with 15" rims contact me, but I need the 3-clip type to stay authentic. I may have to compromise if it doesn't materialize soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Anderson,

See you are making progres on the Buick..... did you do a total overhaul on the engine ?? or just a cleanup and "headrenovation ".. It looks very good!

can you imaging .. i am just busy every evening with grinding al the "zamac chrome" part . man o man what a pitting into the metal ..... But the results are very satisfying..

will post some pics next week ...

have a nice weekend!

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Anderson,

See you are making progres on the Buick..... did you do a total overhaul on the engine ?? or just a cleanup and "headrenovation ".. It looks very good!

can you imaging .. i am just busy every evening with grinding al the "zamac chrome" part . man o man what a pitting into the metal ..... But the results are very satisfying..

will post some pics next week ...

have a nice weekend!

Paul

Hi Paul, glad to see you survived Paris Disney! Hope you and the family had fun.

To answer your question, the engine was removed and steam cleaned. Then the freeze plugs were removed to clean out the core. The head was removed and the valves were checked and cleaned. The timing chain was pretty worn and loose, so that will be something else to replace (the list keeps growing!) Also, unfortunately, both of the exhaust manifolds were cracked. So those will need to be sent off for repair. But the good news is that progress is being made :D

I hope to have more photos soon. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

Anderson

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tank looks great! I restored mine too, and so far, no issues with the liner that was put in. The tank was more like a sive than an actually tank, so it took a lot of work to fix.

The engine is looking really nice too! Also, in my engine, there was more crud and deposit in the water jackets than I ever imagined.

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Anderson

yesterday i pulled out the "dashboard" out of my buick ( the gauge part) original there was original a sort of polished plate used over the steel dash. Mine was damaged and paint over . Do you know if these plates are for sale? .. also took the mile gauge out of it . and ofcourse al the numbers felt from the counter weels :(. I have an 47 mile gauge also and the mechanic inside is nearly similar than the 41models . So i am doing some interchanging . But i have to get some new numbers for it ...

And does someone has a picture (or an exploded view ) from the vacuum wiper built in . Mine is missing and i want to check some wipers overhere if they might fit..

happy sunday!

paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning Paul,

If I understand correctly, I've heard the stainless piece over the steering column called the "saddle" or "collar" (not sure if it has a formal name.) They are available on eBay often. Regarding the odometer wheels (numbers), I had to find an odometer with better numbers and switch them out. I outlined that process in an earlier post on this thread (it wasn't too hard...just took a steady hand and a quiet room...haa!) I don't have access to my car right now to take a photo of the wiper motor (located under the cowl) or the wiper transmissions (chrome towers above the cowl.) Next time I have a chance I'll try to send something to you.

I'd recommend starting a thread for you and your car in "Me and My Buick". I think you will get a broader response, and I think the other members would LOVE to see what you've done with your '40 Plymouth and '44 Dodge (guys- he's redone these cars as WWII army vehicles, very cool.) Judging by those cars, I'm sure your '41 Buick will be a beauty too ;) You may also want to start a thread in the "Buy/Sell" section for the parts you are looking for.

Take care, I hope that helps, and LET"S SEE SOME PICTURES :cool:

Hi Anderson

yesterday i pulled out the "dashboard" out of my buick ( the gauge part) original there was original a sort of polished plate used over the steel dash. Mine was damaged and paint over . Do you know if these plates are for sale? .. also took the mile gauge out of it . and ofcourse al the numbers felt from the counter weels :(. I have an 47 mile gauge also and the mechanic inside is nearly similar than the 41models . So i am doing some interchanging . But i have to get some new numbers for it ...

And does someone has a picture (or an exploded view ) from the vacuum wiper built in . Mine is missing and i want to check some wipers overhere if they might fit..

happy sunday!

paul

Edited by 41Roadmaster (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some shots from a few weeks ago when my inlaws came for a visit. Lewis Jenkins was kind enough to give us a tour around the showroom and garages. I think my mother-in-law was really getting into it!

The head is back on and a new timing chain installed. Also my rebuilt speedometer is back in and some of the exterior items are going back on. Is my bowtie straight? ; )

post-75951-143139247239_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139247245_thumb.jpg

post-75951-14313924725_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139247253_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139247257_thumb.jpg

post-75951-143139247261_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anderson ,

It looks very very nice :D . Is it original to paint the dash into the same color as the body ? it looks good and i really love the color. It is great in combination with the chrome .

I have seen some pictures of a 41 coupe that was sprayed two-tone , dark grey on the "bottom" and silver grey on top .. super ....

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anderson ,

It looks very very nice :D . Is it original to paint the dash into the same color as the body ? it looks good and i really love the color. It is great in combination with the chrome .

I have seen some pictures of a 41 coupe that was sprayed two-tone , dark grey on the "bottom" and silver grey on top .. super ....

Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks, the color is #565-Lancaster Gray Metallic. My research shows that the dashboard surrounding the two instrument panels matched the body color in convertibles, and closed cars recieived a painted woodgrain finish. The one exception seems to be the 90-L with was painted black.

My color charts show the combination you mentioned is: #572-Silver French Gray Metallic (upper) and Lancaster Gray Metallic (lower.) I've seen this combination in person and, your right, it is sharp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anderson: You are correct on the instrument panel color and woodgrain finishes. 1940 was the last year open cars used woodgrain finishes on the instrument panel. I was educated on this years ago by "The Old Guy". Nice to see the progress on your car.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Anderson: You are correct on the instrument panel color and woodgrain finishes. 1940 was the last year open cars used woodgrain finishes on the instrument panel. I was educated on this years ago by "The Old Guy". Nice to see the progress on your car.

Hey thanks Dave. But which "Old Guy" are you talking about? (there are so many! ;))

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both front and rear exhaust manifolds had hairline cracks so I had to send them out to be welded. They are back now and look great (and hopefully they will operate just as well...fingers crossed)

Since I've owned the car, the rear riser valve has always been stuck (in the open position I've discovered.)

So my question is:

1) do I tack the front riser valve open too, and be prepared for a little longer heat-up period (I'm in North Carolina, not extremely cold)

2) do I work the rear riser valve loose so it can operate as designed (for at least awhile hopefully, and if I don't break it, eeek) or

3) leave it the way it is (front operating, rear open)

I'm sure there are some that have been through this very same delimma. What's been the experiences? Thanks for any input!

post-75951-143139266122_thumb.jpg

post-75951-14313926613_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Anderson,

These manifolds looks familiair .. The ones i have has also cracks (small block ;)), I am oiling them daily to try to lose the heater riser valves. I am technical more familiar with the flathead six from Dodge but i know that a good working heatervalve saves you fuel , especially when you drive the car in cold periods. The fuel wil get better burned into the cilinders . Some say they let the valve positioned in the half open half middle postion. But you can feel the way your engine runs if the heater valve is correctly open.

But is it worth afterall to risk a damaged manifold when you try to lose the valves ........ (and you just had them welded ) I think not. You know what they cost.. (and its only one that is not functioning ).

So i would let it the way it is .

Have a happy Thanksgiving !

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rear carb does contribute to the idle. A careful reading of the manual describes the operation. I found out the hard way, when I got my car on the road for the first time earlier this year, and I didn't have fuel flow to the rear carb and it wouldn't idle properly. A previous owner (perhaps back in WW II) had blocked off the rear carb, to save on gas, and I thought that I had it all cleared up the blockages (plus a pro rebuild on both carbs) but I later discovered a small screw jammed in the gas line that leads to the rear carb. It took awhile to figure this out though. Then low and behold, it idled nice!

Both of my heat riser valves are completely rusted solid. I spent a considerable amount of time trying everything I could solvents, heat, etc., to free them up, all to no avail, I am running them in the open position.

Though it gets very could here in Ontario, it is not ever going to be winter driven, and I didn't notice any drivability issues this fall. My babies are both away for the winter now!

Edited by Buicknutty
spelling, grammar (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rear carb does contribute the idle. A careful reading of the manual describes the operation. I found out the hard way, when I got my car on the road for earlier this year, and I didn't have fuel flow to the rear carb and it wouldn't idle properly. A previous owner (perhaps back in WW II) had blocked off the rear carb, to save on gas, and I thought that I had it all cleared up (plus a pro rebuild on both carbs) but I later discovered a small screw jammed in the gas line that leads to the rear carb. It took awhile to figure this out though. Then low and behold, it idled nice!

Both of my heat riser valves are completely rusted solid. I spent a considerable amount of time trying everything I could solvents, heat, etc., to free them up, all to no avail, I am running them in the open position.

Though it gets very could here in Ontario, it is not ever going to be winter driven, and I didn't notice any drivability issues this fall. My babies are both away for the winter now!

Thanks Keith. Sounds like I need to dust off the manual!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...