1947 Super Hot rod wiring

We, myself and Mike(Buick5563), are starting to put in a Ron Francis wiring kit to replace the old worn out harness in my 47 Super. Yes, it not original but neither is the Air conditioner or the Alternator in the car. Its a driver and will be for the rest of its life. I am just trying to stop it from burning around me.

Anyway, I thought I would show what It will take to put this in over the next month or two.

Here is the panel we are putting in, it has room for everything I need, tomorrow we start pulling out all the old wiring.

Bill,

Remember, wiring before beer.....not beer before, or during wiring.....beer after. haha. Keep posting pictures. Wiring will be coming up in the next couple of months on my 47 76C.:eek::eek:

Just wondering, did you price out a harness like the original, and if so how did it compare price wise to the Ron F unit? I have used the Painless harness and found it to be very good, I haven't use a Ron F. though. I am sure it is a good harness too.

Thanks,

Dale in Indhy

Yes, I did price out the original and the pricing was similar by the time I get everything I want. BUT, and this is why I went aftermarket, the 47 Buick harnesses have minimal protection in case of problems and running 12 volts with a 100 amp alternator and A/C, I want something with a fuse box.

I spent yesterday afternoon studying the old wiring in my car closely and I am surprised I have not turned into a burning mass of metal and rubber. Touch or move a wire and the insulation falls off.

I haven't checked, but I read where some after market harness builders are offering their kits WRAPPED with retro sheathing. They of course would need to build the harness per original blue prints. I am going to rewire my 46 Road Master, and will check into this.

Oh, I agree, I was looking at the wires to my horns that are under the hood, and behind the grill, and they too are crumbling.

Dale in Indy

No matter what harness you buy, you will have to do this...

(FWIW, this is a very nice, well thought out harness. Not original looking, but very nice, nonetheless). I would not use it on a "show car", but you could bundle wire easily in cloth wiring loom which would complete the illusion. BTW, Bill did not enter into this project too early!

It was a fun day today, destruction always is fun.

Mike and I took all the wiring out of the car. Talk about rigged, this one was. I can't explain all the extra's it had. Fog lights, horn buttons , spotlights etc. The underside of the dash was a big mess.

Anyway after about 6 hours we got all the wiring out along with the switches that we needed to rewire it. Not much wire in the whole car (1st picture)

The best part we found was a pair of alligator clips the powered the horns. Whoever thought of that one must have had better uses for this clips. (2nd picture)

Wow! Spaghetti! What's the new wiring harness look like next to that pile?

There is no "Harness". All we have is a fuse panel and bags of wires that we build our own harness from. Its a generic kit.

Bill,

Remember, wiring before beer.....not beer before, or during wiring.....beer after.

Of course, since we just tore the car apart today, I had to drive Bill home and he always has good beer at his house.

I just realized I am using the wrong terms for what we are doing. What I should have said is that the kit we are installing is very professional looking and apparently well engineered.

Do you ID the wires, or did Ron F do such? What do you plan on using as a wrap?

Thanks,

Dale in Indy

The wires come printed with the usage on them (Fuel pump, Distributor, etc.) so we know where they are supposed to go. Don't know what we will do about wrap or sheathing yet, maybe the hard plastic like you see in modern cars using black (not neon green or pink like in tuner cars) or perhaps a more conventional loom.

Dale,for your convertible, I would talk to one of the wiring vendors like YNZ and get a harness made for your car. I did that on my 1950 Wagon and it was great, all wires the correct color, correct material, labeled so you know where they go, and made to look like stock. Best part was when all was hooked up all the lights worked and the car ran without any troubleshooting.

As I have said, this car is a driver with modifications already so I don't have it judged. You would get dinged for the wiring in judging for what I am putting it.

Another busy day on the Buick.

Mike mounted the panel up above the steering column and we started running wires. After figuring out the differences that needed to be changed between my car and the instructions we had, we got the ignition and starting circuit wired with the old ignition switch and pushbutton starter.

I hooked up the battery, Mike turned the key and pushed the button and the car started right up. Surprised was the word of the day.

Now on to the lights horns and turn signals.

So when you are finished, will ALL wires be NEW? Wires to rear such as tail lights, will they be under the carpet/mat? Were there originally wires in the headliner area?

Having fun, FUN IS GOOD, HUH?

Dale in Indy

Mike,

I knew that beer would be involved somewhere! Glad you two are making along well with the wiring.

So when you are finished, will ALL wires be NEW? Wires to rear such as tail lights, will they be under the carpet/mat? Were there originally wires in the headliner area?

Yes all wires will be new as we ripped out or cut out all the old ones.

Except the map light and wires internally to the steering column to the turn signals and horns.

Wires to the rear will be run along the floor as they were originally in the headliner. We do not want to take the headliner off.

I have heard of those that were able to use the old wires in the headliner as FISHING line and PULL new wires up through the windshield post, and back to trunk area. Not having done that I don't know if it is really possible.

My father in his retirement years was very successful in selling Buick's downtown Austin. He went by the name of Smitty. That would have been in the 80's, & early 90's.

Dale in Indy

Going to post this is a couple of places to see if I can get some help..

As part of rewiring my car, I need to fix the sockets in my taillights. I hate to replace the sockets with the cheap plastic that is available now. This is on my 1947 Buick Super.

I have enclosed a picture of what needs repair, does anyone have an idea on how I can replace the wires on this ? The socket contacts push in but seemed to be locked from coming out so I just don't want to cut the wires and pull or un solder them.

Any suggestions are welcome..

After some suggestions and work with a soldering iron I got all the wires off.

Now to get some wire tomorrow and solder them back in.

It was easier then it looked like to get them off. Just heat the tips and apply pressure and it eventually comes apart.

I would not have guessed that was the solution Bill. Do you have to drill out the old solder now?

Years ago you could buy the pigtail wires with the ends on them. The wires were about six inches long. You would cut the old wire at the back and pull it out the front (don't loose the spring or break the insulating base), then just slide the new one in and hook it back up to the wiring loom. You could also buy the whole unit with the 2 pigtails, 2 springs and the base all set up and ready to install. The metal housings for the bulbs were all standard sizes so you were able to just replace the guts of the socket. I think they were available at NAPA. I have also taken them out of a older style plastic socket before they went to the metal straps in the bottom of them.

Did you hook the alternator and A/C up on the straight eight. I would like to see pictures if you get a chance. Also curious what pulley and belts you use.

Randy

Alternator is hooked up, I am using a MSD alternator that came with a variety of mounting brackets on the alternator itself. I was doing work on the AC when we started this project so the compressor is off. I need to find a new way of mounting it as it had a bracket welded to a head bolt.

I don't plan on drilling out the solder, just tinning the wires and re soldering them.

I will take pictures when I get back to the car later today.

A day of cleaning up wiring and making at least the iginition wiring pretty.

Started on turn signals and found another "customization". Someone had wrapped bare wire around two terminals on the flasher. It was to power both sides of the flasher I guess.... Another fire looking for a place to happen.

I tried getting the new headlight switch to fit and work but had no luck. So now its time to sit with the wiring diagram and the kit documentation and make it work. Just like the ignition circut.

Here are some pictures:

1st is the red ignition wiring under the hood.

2nd is the alternator and mounting

3rd is the panel under the dash right above the vent.

Are you planning on putting the A/C compressor on the lower right side of the engine? Do you know what pulleys were used to make it run dual small belts? I thought about doing the same type of set up on my '38.

Randy

Before the compressor was on he left hand side of the engine and used the single pulley with a longer belt to drive everything. Not sure what i am going to do yet with the new alternator.

Saturday was a day of putting things together and more wiring. I got stuck on the turn signals trying to combine old and new wiring. I need tech support o the panel, so will call Monday. BY the way, the support on this panel is great, a 1-800 number that gets you real people that are in Pennsylvania no overseas. I was trying to get the new light switch they sent with the kit to work and he was very helpful

We didn't get it to work because of the space in the dashboard I had to work with, but it wasn't for lack of effort. So I wired my old switches up and when I get my turn signals wired, they will drop right in.

I did get the horn working though so at least something was accomplished.

Plus I ordered a bunch of light sockets for the dash from Rhode Island Wiring and they came in so I will make the instrument light harness this week. This I can do at home.

Aother weekend, another day of turn signals... But the good news is that we have the column portion integrated with the new wiring harness and we have continuity to all the lights. Yea...

Mike made a beautiful underdash harness of lights for me, as soon as I can find my phone I will post the picture. I hate it when you turn off the ringer....

Installed the headlight buckets with new gaskets and grommits from Bob's Automobilia. Next project is to install the headlight switch and interior light switch and run those wires.

Spent Sunday putting together IKEA furniture. Not nearly as much fun as playing with cars but it was worth it when I slept in the new bed. They know how to design stuff to make it easy to put together.

As promised the harness Mike built for my dash lights. 60 year Old harness on top, new harness on bottom. Rhode Island Wiring provided the sockets and Mike provided the solder and labor. He said it was practice for his convertible. If this is what he does for practice, wait till you see the job he does on his own car.

Sweet! That Mikey is a real artist!

Looking good Bill. Nice job Mike.

Aw shucks...

Back for the, hopefully, final day at Mike's garage. We made good progress last week with the electric fuel pump put in and working and all the lights wired and installed. When we stared testing though we ran into an issue with grounds. Confused both of us but after talking to Willie, we know what to do.

As Mike said, after tearing out all the wiring and doing all we did, if all we have is an issue with a turn signal, we did pretty good.

I hope to bring the car home today or tomorrow depending on the weather, its raining right now and chilly.(50 or so)