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1941 Buick Super Front Drum to Disc Brake Conversion


Guest LarryB

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I'm almost done. A few more adjustments I will have completed the Drum to Disc Brake conversion on my 1941 Buick Super. In addition I replaced the King Pins, Upper and lower control arm shanks and new tie rods.

The brakes rub slight on the new pads, but the car stops so much better.

https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299436692427538

https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299425821127986

https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299429918626786

https://picasaweb.google.com/WoodStreetFair/BrakeConversion#5666299457687422194

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After investigation scarebird did supply the adapters. It uses a mid 90's Riviera rotor and a 2000's Astro (Chevy) caliper. Cost from Rock Auto is about 125 @ wheel. Plus 165 for adapters.PLus Scarebird has adapters for the back wheels too, Can you imagine a old Buick with 4 wheel disks ??

Still need to know about Master Cylinder please...

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I actually ordered the set from Kanter. They dropped shipped from ABS Power Brake. It was a complete set (Brackets, Rotors, Calibers, Pads, Wheel Cylinders).

Set ran $750 for my car.

I keep the stock single master cylinder, however, I did replace it for one that was resleeved (from Bob's), since I had a very slow leak even after replacing with a kit last year.

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Also forgot to mention that I was able to use my same wheel. However had to get a set of lug nuts since the rotors already had the bolts.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Larry, your just the person i am in need of communicating with. I have a 52' roadmaster that i am going with rpm engineering disc brake kit out of California. I originally ordered a front disc conversion and a power assisted booster to be mounted under the car. However, in finding out my pedal assembly is different and i could only use an undesirable single bowl 7" in the stock location. If i want to use the more desirable 9'' dual master cyl. i would have to mount a different pedal assembly and place my master cyl. on the firewall,,,,not what i wanted to do.

I NOW HAVE 3 OPTIONS 1. REBUILD STOCK FRONT BRAKES

2. Run manual disc brakes

3. Run power assisted brakes with an unsightly firewall mounted 9'' dual bowl master/booster assembly (for best performance)

My question... Assuming you are now running a non-powered (manual) front disc brake kit,,, How does the car stop compared to the original drum brakes as far as pedal effort and performance?

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You can definately feel the difference between the drum and disc. The disc feel like I have a shorter stop and I can really push on the pedal if needed. The pedal is higher and I have to apply little effort to stop normally.

With the drums at any significant speed trying to stop quickly had chatter and I could feel the back end sliding.

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Oscar,

Right now, I'm using the original brake lines. I was able to use an adapter to go from the original to the new brake hoses. However, I have to plumb in the residual valves, so I will mostlikely have to redo all the brake lines. If I'm correct they are 3/16 lines, but I haven't pull them off to confirm.

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