1972 Skylark Custom - Restoration Tips?

Hi all,

I'm new here but was wondering if anyone has tips for restoring a 1972 Skylark Custom 2 door hardtop to original. (or as close as I can get)

Body seems in pretty good shape for the most part, but it's been sitting in a garage for about 10 years. There's some paint blistering around some of the edges. I have a parts car for it, 1972 Skylark 4 door hardtop that unfortunately has been exposed to the elements in eastern Canada for about 10 years and it's rusting out pretty bad. The interior parts should still be good, I hope.

It's an awesome car, but needs a fair bit of work.

Since I don't really have any idea, (except it's probably expensive) how much would it cost (range or ballpark) if I found a mechanic shop that does full restorations and said do the full shebang?

There's a serial number on the dash up by the heater vents under the front windshield, 4H37J2Z107745, does anyone know what it's for?

Also have the original engine (a 350 big block) which came with the car but needs rebuilding. (pricey, I know) At the moment there's a replacement in it.

Previous owner also put in a different steering wheel which I'm going to swap for the one from the 4 door so it's closer to original.

It also came with a 1972 Fullline Buick Assembly Manual.

Here are a few pics.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Great Buick you have there. It ought to be a fun and reliable car and you may find that it is highly desireable. What I suspect you'll find however, is that the cost of having someone do a full restoration way outstrips the market value for the car. This is only a problem if you think you might ever need to get your money out of the car, which from time to time, most of us want to do.

I don't think you'll find many of the 4 door parts are useful. Most of the body is different as well as the interior parts like seats and door panels. You have a great interior combination with the bucket seats and white coverings, and practically all of the interior is reproduced today in exact original style. So I would suggest you try to get the 4 dr running and if the motor and tranny is good, pull them and then get whatever else you need from it and dispose of it. Bumpers, dashpad, instruments, and check to see if it has a positive traction rear axle. If so keep that too. Also check to see if it has the disc brake package up front. You may want that in the future.

Feel free to put up more pics of both cars and ask questions about your project. I suspect you can get a lot of experience from looking around at this site and may want to take on some restoration steps yourself, which would lead to great satisfaction in doing it yourself.

Also join the Buick Club of America. There are lots of friendly people willing to help you as you discover the hidden beauty of your car.

Good Luck.

Thanks for the tips, and yeah I'm starting to realize getting a mechanic to do it is likely to bust the bank. I knew it'd be expensive but it seems like it'll be even more than I expected.

A few things I likely won't have much choice but a lot should be manageable. My father is a hobbyist mechanic and I've got the manual. With some time hopefully I'll be able to work away at it.

Couple questions.

Are console shifts that common? I hadn't seen one before this car, it's quirky in a cool way, like it's an airplane throttle.

Is it generally worth it to rebuild the original engine? This I highly doubt I'd be able to do myself, at least anytime soon. It'd be pricey, but every mechanic or hobbyist I've talked to (admittedly few) has been gung ho to keep matching numbers.

Here are a few more pics. It's not looking that pretty at the moment, (though not too bad either) but I think you can see the potential.

Damn, looks like just about everybody around here has really cool cars. Thanks for sharing the pictures, and I'll look forward to hearing how the restoration goes, if nothing else for tips when I come to problems. It looks like a great car, no question that it's worth restoring.

Sounds like you're taking on a job a lot like the one I'm trying to tackle here. From what I've seen, I'd say you can handle most of the mechanical stuff yourself if you're at all competent and not afraid to get in there and get your hands dirty.

I see you have a disc brake car. So this vehicle is already pretty well optioned.

It is nice to keep the original numbers matching engine. Does the engine in your parts car run? If so you may want to drop that one in there while you tackle the rebuild. Here's a few more things I'll offer.

First off I am not the last word on anything. Please be sure to get a variety of opinions and then go with what makes the most sense to you.

Next, Consider the total value of the car in question. A 72 skylark is a nice car but the big money cars are the GS's and the GS Stage 1's. This is because of their low production numbers. I don't know what your car may be worth restored but with 34K production, you have to be careful of your investment. So I would say if you can find a good running Buick 350 from the 1968-1973 years, you may want to just keep the original engine on hand without a rebuild. A good Buick 350 will have at least 20 lbs of oil pressure when warmed up.

One thing you will need to address soon is the rear window channel. The original glue holding the window in has probably deteriorated and is letting water into the trunk and under the back seat. If you plan to paint the car then you would want to pull the rear and front window before painting and then get the channels scraped, treated, primed and painted with window channel primer. You should look for an automotive paint shop and go there in the afternoons to see if they will give you some advice on products available. My local paint shop is a wealth of information with some great guys who are genuinely interested in these types of projects. But mornings are their busier times with commercial customers getting their days supplies.

When you say it came with the original 350 engine, are you saying there is already a different engine in the car? Can you post some pics of the engine?

BTW, don't let anyone talk you out of that console and bucket seats, unless you ever find you have to junk the car. Those things do command a decent price. Also I notice your dash bezel has nice chrome plating still. Do what you can to preserve it. Never use any chemicals on it and always clean any spills immediately. I would not use anything other than a new clean damp microtowel to preserve that finish. That stuff is a bear to have rechromed!

Yeah there is a replacement in now, I'm unimpressed with it thus far, and I don't know as much about it. I think it was just the cheapest engine around that would make the car go at the time. Here are some pics, and one of the original engine. (not a great pic though)

Good enough to see that yes, the original engine will definitely need some work.

Looks like a 70-80's Chevy 350 in there to me. The Buick engine would have more spunk than that Chevy motor if both were side by side and original. By 74 or so all the GM engines were being detuned with an eye towards higher gas milage and reduced Insurance liability from the Muscle car era.

The 68-70 Buick 350 can be either exactly what you want to find or another non performer. In these years the 350 was outfitted with various carb and compression ratio modifications from the factory. A 350 with a 2 bbl carb will be among the lower horsepower units and I have two friends with these engines. One loves his, the other says his is a dog. Who knows? Here's what I'd watch for:

In 68 there was a 9:00-1 compression ratio engine producing 230 HP at 4200 RPM. This had a two barrel carb.

There was also a 10:25 -1 engine which produced 280 HP at 4600 RPM with a 4 BBL.

In 69 the 9:00-1 engine produced 230 HP @ 4400 RPM while the 10:25-1 remained the same.

In 70 the 2 bbl 350 and the 4 bbl 350 were basically the same but there wa a third 350 which had 10:25-1 ratio and produced 315 HP at 4800 RPM. That would be in the GS 350 car.

In 71 the engines were downrated, with the 2 bbl running 8.05-1 ratio and still geting 230 HP at 4400 RPM. The 4 bbl also running 8:05 - 1 and with 260 HP @ 4600 RPM, and the base GS with 9:00-1 and 285 HP @ 4600 RPM.

All these numbers come from the Standard Catalogue of Buick. You can find these motors in Skylarks, Lesabres, and the smaller Stationwagons. I believe any of these engines will bolt right into your car with the possible exception that you may have to get new motor mounts now due to that chevy motor in there. I'd look for a lesabre 4 door with factory Air for the best chances of finding a 4 bbl engine with the higher hp ratings. The best news is if you can find a trashed one that is running chances are it will be unbelievably cheap, and most likely a good motor.

One more thing I learned from experience. I have had a good number of Buicks over the years and I have found that between 80-125K practically all of them need the timing gears and chain replaced. If a motor has been sitting a few years then this will happen sooner than later. Many times people find this out when they start the car cold, and it drops dead a few moments later, never to start again. I have seen this time and time again, so if I was in your shoes, any motor I found would get a new timing chain and gears before the engine is installed in the car.

Thanks for all the tips.

I'm not really looking for power just something that will match well requiring fewer workarounds or modifications and run decently well. The 4 door's engine will be my first stop, I'm hoping it hasn't rusted too much.

According to the buick site the original engine is a 350 4bbl single exhaust with 178 horsepower. (based on the serial number on the dash)

Good choice. And good luck.

Well I finally got the chance to get the 4 door moved and take a better look. Here's the steering wheel I want on mine, although looking a bit rough around the edges, still not bad and a huge improvement over the too-small one in my opinion.

And of course the big if - the engine, if it still runs. Haven't had a chance to do that yet, but it's next on the list. It ain't pretty to look at in these pics, but here's hoping.

Lots of excellent advice here so far.

For even more Skylark resto info than you can shake a stick at go to:

http://www.v8buick.com/

Noticed your post as I've been looking at this car as a father son project 1972 BUICK SKYLARK CUSTOM any thoughts folks

on the 4 dr, is there a small badge under the word Skylark on the rear quarter panel, that says "350"?

I just found out that the standard catalogue I use as a reference has little information on the 72 motors. It appears for 73 the base Buick 350 w/ 2 bbl would have 150 HP at 3800. If your 4 dr has the 350 badges then you have the 175 HP engine. So it's probably worth the time to investigate further.

Here's some food for thought. If there's currently a Chevy engine in the car, then there's also a Chevy transmission behind it. Chevrolet has a different bellhousing than the similarly sized BOP "A" bodies. So if you use that engine from the 4-door, get the transmisson to go with it.

Another thing to consider when looking at HP ratings on engines is that in '73, the Feds required that HP ratings be measured at the rear wheels. Before that, HP ratings were measured at the flywheel. Two identical engines would have different HP ratings becasue the transmission and rear gears take some HP to turn them.

In '73, most compression ratios were dropped as well to help with the use of unleaded gas. Considering what gas is like now, the lower compression might be a blessing in disguise.

Good luck and keep us updated.

Ed

Here's some food for thought. If there's currently a Chevy engine in the car, then there's also a Chevy transmission behind it. Chevrolet has a different bellhousing than the similarly sized BOP "A" bodies. So if you use that engine from the 4-door, get the transmisson to go with it.

Another thing to consider when looking at HP ratings on engines is that in '73, the Feds required that HP ratings be measured at the rear wheels. Before that, HP ratings were measured at the flywheel. Two identical engines would have different HP ratings becasue the transmission and rear gears take some HP to turn them.

...

Good luck and keep us updated.

Ed

That's the plan, to yank the engine and whole accompanying system, provided it's good and usable. *crosses fingers*

I'm not so concerned about the HP either way, but the 4 dr was a one owner car. Pretty sure no major work like different engine was done.

Nice looking car, lots of good advice so far.

One thing is that there are of repro parts available for the "A" body cars, like your Skylark, which shares many components with its' GM sisters, like the Cutlas and others.

So if you need floorpans and such, they will be available from a few sources.

Keep us posted on your progress!

Keith

Hi, I have a 1972 Buick 'Skylark' custom too. It is right hand drive and has the 350 engine [buick with didtributor at the back of the engine]. I bought it in 1977, yes I did say 1977, with just 32.000 miles on the clock. It now has 250.000 miles up and is used as an everyday car [together with my 1963 Skoda 'Octavia' and my 1976 Skoda 110L [rear engine]]. The Buick has given me great service over the years. Owing to the ever increasing cost of petrol [gasoline] I had the car converted to run on either petrol or LPG [Liquid petrolium gas]. At less than half of the cost of petrol I find that I am, so far as cost is concerned, getting nearly 30 imperial miles to the imperial gallon. I have replaced the original starter motor some 5 years ago, the water pump twice, this seems to be a weak point on this engine, and I am now on the first replacement alternator. I had to have the gearbox casing changed some 16 years ago as it became cracked after being hit by a rock in the road. I worked it out recently that in replacement parts the car has cost me less that $100A a year. Would I sell it ?.......No.

My car has a column change for the 3 speed auto, a gearbox that changes gear as smmothly as one could wish for. I do have a problem with the rear window channel leaking water into the boot but I hope to get that fixed soon. Can you tell me please, what sort of seal is used on the rear window?

I took my Skylark on the "melbourne to Mornington" run yesterday. This event is organised to raise money for the Peter Mac Callum Cancer research centre here in Melbourne. I saw another 1968 skylark there but it was left hand drive. Many left hand drive cars are being brought in from America these days. The authorities there should do something to stop the flow or very soon you will have to start re-importing your cars. How can I load a photograph of my car please?

Hi, I have a 1972 Buick 'Skylark' custom too. It is right hand drive and has the 350 engine [buick with didtributor at the back of the engine]. I bought it in 1977, yes I did say 1977, with just 32.000 miles on the clock. ...

I do have a problem with the rear window channel leaking water into the boot but I hope to get that fixed soon. Can you tell me please, what sort of seal is used on the rear window?

Welcome to this Forum Antony. We'd love to see pics of your 72 on here. Posting digital pics is easy, and there's at least two ways to do so. I'll send you a private message on how to do it.

Meanwhile, since you bought your car used, I am pretty sure that based on your description, you do not have a Buick Motor. There could be any of several brands in there but a Buick 350 motor will have the distributor in the front of the engine, not the rear. The last rear distributor on a Buick Motor was 1966, the end of the Buick Nailhead engine, and I'd be very surprised if you had one of those in there. Not saying it's impossible, just highly unlikely.

If you finally can post a picture of the motor we may be able to lead you in the direction to identify what you do have. Look for your private messages after you log on to the forum.

As for the rear window, there is a urethane glue that holds the window in place. Auto Parts stores in the USA sell this directly. You have to pull the window out and clean the channel before installing the new glue. This will mean treating any rust, or rot too, cause once you reglue the window you do not want anything to flex in this area and break the glass.

Good luck

Thank you John. It is just coming up to 1 in the morning here in Melbourne and I realise that I have made a big mistake in the description of my engine. The distributor IS at the front of the motor which is a wide angle V8. My best mate has a 1964 Chev Bel-Air with the 283 ? engine and the angle of the V is much narrower. It is his distributor that is at the back of the motor..I think. I will take a picture of the engine and other pics and load them soon. I have loaded one picture in the 'Members Gallery' [thanks for the instructions on that] and it can be discovered by typing into the "search" block "Buick Australia".

The Skylark looks pretty good Antony. Be sure to start your own thread in this section of the forums. Post some pics of the rear window frame on there so we can see what advice we can provide

72ess-cee, this won't be any help to you in your project but please let me reminisce about a '72 Skylark Custom 2-door hardtop that I once knew and admired. During my grad year at high school, a friend's parents bought it new. It was a lovely copper colour with a light beige brocade bench seat interior. They immediately installed those fuzzy seat covers, to "save" the upholstery. "Save it for what?" I wondered but was too polite to ask.

This fine Buick served that family for about twelve years and even I drove it a few times. During the awful NEP* recession of the early '80s, the only place my buddy could land an articling position with an accounting office was in Yellowknife, NWT. His Fiat X/19 was not up to that challenge, so his dad gave him the old Skylark.

(* NEP=National Energy Policy, for which a generation of Western Canadians will never forgive Ottawa. Or Liberals.)

First thing my friend did when he got up north was to tear out those stupid seat covers. Of course, the original brocade was flawless, although the rest of the car was looking its age. The nice seats might have clinched the deal, when he traded the Buick straight across for a newer Ford F150, which my pal needed for some losing business venture. Alas, the Ford, not the Buick, eventually made it back to civilization, two or three years later.

how you goin mate, you live in the states, you can rebuild the complete car without fuss over there, come to Australia and try buy parts, chev I can get for a dime a dozen, Buick not a thing to be seen, only chev part I can't find is a ashtray slide for a 69 chevelle/el camino, even in the states you have trouble finding these, any leads would help, thanks Bob The Buick

Bob. I hoe you got the reply to your message to me. I sent it a few minutes ago. What I failed to add was that there is a company in the USA called , I think, "Year One". They cover most of the GM Range of older cars I understand. In addition, if you have not already done so, I suggest that you Join the Buick Car Club. They have a branch in WA I am quite sure.

Regards, Tony

i have parts for sale what are you looking for i have 1970-72 buick skylark and 1970-72 olds cutlass

hi, where abouts are you, I need a bonnet/hood, I can get one from the states for $200, but the shipping is $300, so it isn't that cheap in the end..