1951 WINDSOR DELUXE ?

I don't know what they used at the factory. If you mean what I think you mean, it was a thick sound deadening tar. By the way, the factory did not undercoat the whole car. They just put some sound deadening in the doors, trunk, in the middle of big panels to stop drumming. If the whole car is undercoated it was done after the car was sold.

You should not need any undercoating for protection if it is painted.

ok ya it must have been done after it was sold.it is everywhere.i am just going to clean it up and paint it ..i didnt think they used tar at the factory.thanks for the info rusty_otoole

ok got another question .was wanting to know, if any one reproduces any of the chrysler body tags .i mean the tag on the firewall ( that says chrysler ) .see pics .also the one on the heater core case . i have search the links you guys gave me but not seeing them . i see engine decals sets ,but not what i am looking .thanks for the info.just wanted to see before i go and try to redo it myself

Rusty, how do you wire the Coby CD Boom Box to a 6 volt system?

Rusty, how do you wire the Coby CD Boom Box to a 6 volt system?

Very simple. Look in the battery box. You will see where the + and - ends of the battery goes. Connect 2 wires to the appropriate places, keyed power and ground. Or connect to a plug that goes in your cigar lighter.

The radio will work fine on 6 volts. After all the radio doesn't quit when the batteries get worn down a little.

Rusty, thanks for the advice on the Coby CD player. . .you seem to really know your stuff.

I need some advice on my 49 Desoto Custom with Fluid Drive... I have a had a vibration in my car/trans for a couple of years. After asking some local guys- they suggested that I replace the 2 brass bushings in the fluid coupling/torque converter.

Here are my questions after getting into it:

1) When I dropped the trans I noticed that my rear motor mounts were shot(which I now believe was the major culprit for the vibration) I replaced both upper mounts-Mopar(above the frame) and added an additional 3/4"rubber shim( I could not find the lower Mopar mounts) under each side below the frame. Is this ok?

2) I had the brass bushings replaced in the fluid coupling at a local machine shop-also had the flywheel turned. The machinist made a special puller to pull off the flywheel to be able to turn/resurface it. When I got this back home I tightened the big nut that holds the flywheel on the fluid coupling and then installed the clutch & pressure plate. At this point everything seemed fine, but after attaching the fluid coupling(with flywheel, clutch & pressure plate) to the crank, I noticed that there seems to be about 1/4" play between the torque converter and the flywheel/clutch. It is not loose, but you can move the flywheel/clutch away from the fluid coupling with moderate pressure. I read on the Imperial Website and found that there is a moving shaft that rotates inside this fluid coupling with a seal that keeps it from leaking. . .could this shaft have this much play? This play does not seem right to me, but could it be designed that way?? any advice? (I was thinking that this play might not matter after the transmission shaft goes in??)

3) Now I have a slight leak of fluid out of my fluid coupling, which I did not notice before. . .I am hopeful that I have just temporarily disturbed the seal around this shaft during this bushing replacement/ and the leak may improve after all is put back together. I know this is a sealed unit, but are new seals available for this & can it be repaired? How? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank You so much for your time, I enjoy reading the thread with you & all the other old car/Mopar folks.

Joe I have no idea what is wrong with your car, or what you did to it. I don't know why you don't go ask the guy who told you to replace the bushings.

The best suggestion I can make is to get a repair manual and go by that.

There is a seal in the fluid drive unit. It is not very difficult to replace if you can find a new one.

Why the flywheel will not go back on right I don't know. In my manual it appears the flywheel is held by a large gland nut with a locking washer in between. It should go on tight. Was it tight when you took it off? I don't think it will stay on long if it is not tight to begin with. There should not be any play inside the fluid drive either. You will need to take it apart and figure out what went wrong.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Thanks Rusty for your feedback. I hope I did not bother you with all the questions. I have lost my shop manual for this car and no one around here knows much about the fluid drive. . . To answer your questions, my flywheel was tight when it came off. And I have tightened it back, very tight just as before. There really isn't any play unless you put moderate pressure prying between the flywheel and the fluid coupling. . . my brother helped me install this and he noticed a little rocking motion(I guess the shaft inside moves a little). He then used a pry trying to discover how much play was there. . .he probably shouldn't have pried, but he did. . .

I will take it down and check it out to be sure all is ok and will replace this seal if I can find one. Thanks again and I really do appreciate your help.

Just purchased a 1951 Chrysler Windsor 2 Door. Any help for parts, mechanical etc. would be greatly appreciated. Also looking to trade off or pay for some mechanical help. Anyone interested and in the Philadelphia area let me know.

Well, you have certainly gotten a lot of information from some really great sources. I have been collecting parts for a 1950 Saratoga 4dr and If you are patient and look under a couple different headings on Ebay you will find everything you need that Andy B does not have. Almost all sellers on Ebay have other items for sale also. Just ask. I have seen tons of Windsor parts for sale. Good luck and "look twice and save a life". Ratman

Well thankyou very much. Good to know. I have been on ebay looking, some times the parts say 1951 windsor but some time not. So i see parts that look right but not sure if they are correct for it. Besides asking the seller question.what key word should i look for on ebay like (desoto,saratoga,ect) ? I will pm ya if i think of something i need. I still havent found a place that make or restore the heater tag plate or firewall plate. Well have a great weekend.

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hi all been working on it and having fun .got another question is the fuel gauge in my windsor and one from 51 newyorker the same ? i mean will work .i just pickup some parts off ebay chrysler front and back nameplates and some gauge's .amp and fuel .the fuel gauge was for a newyorker but it was a bundle deal i couldnt pass up .just in case i need one in the future thanks for the info

Fuel gauge sender (in the tank) all the same Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, Chrysler up to 1955 (1956 up are 12 volt).

Gas tanks the same too, 1949 to 52 P, D, D, C except the New Yorker and Imperial may be bigger? But all the six cylinder cars interchange.

All Chryslers used the same gauges so far as I know.Color might differ year to year, not sure about that part. 1949 to 52. Plym Dodge DeS had different instrument panels.

Fuel gauge sender (in the tank) all the same Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, Chrysler up to 1955 (1956 up are 12 volt).

Gas tanks the same too, 1949 to 52 P, D, D, C except the New Yorker and Imperial may be bigger? But all the six cylinder cars interchange.

All Chryslers used the same gauges so far as I know.Color might differ year to year, not sure about that part. 1949 to 52. Plym Dodge DeS had different instrument panels.

thanks rusty_o toole i am happy it will work .got them for a great price and n.o.s . to boot . i was wondering on the gas tanks too that answer that .thanks again .

Hi all

Have been reading this thread with interest !

Glad to see that there are others doing the same kinda work I am (1950 Chrysler Royal 4 Door Saloon).

I am in the middle of a body off restoration, with all the parts removed and in the process of being cleaned and painted, I got the engine running prior to stripping the car down, and it sounds great, ( had been run for about 15 years / 1995 )

I will post some pics ( as soon as I can figure out how ! )

Thanks

Colin

OK, I have posted pics of the car in my album !

Thanks

Hi all

Have been reading this thread with interest !

Glad to see that there are others doing the same kinda work I am (1950 Chrysler Royal 4 Door Saloon).

I am in the middle of a body off restoration, with all the parts removed and in the process of being cleaned and painted, I got the engine running prior to stripping the car down, and it sounds great, ( had been run for about 15 years / 1995 )

I will post some pics ( as soon as I can figure out how ! )

Thanks

Colin

FINALLY! A guy that got the term "body off restoration" correct! How many use the term "frame off"? Too many. I know.....picky, picky, picky. You may have to limit your photo pixel sizes to about 2000 or less in BOTH directions for them to load.

Thanks Keiser, I will check the image sizes prior to posting !

Thanks

C

hi ColinM, just looked at your pics great looking car,cant wait to see it done .you gave me a good idea on takeing the body off .where did you attach to and what size u clamp or bolt .or what did you use? i been searching ebay and such for parts i been missing.found some .i still need some trim parts and the center grill crest or emblem what ever it's called.mine turns over freely but havnt tryed to start it wireing a little mess up . so you got yours running before youy tore it down .are you going to rebuild it or just tune up and go? as for the body are you cleaning all your self or blasting it or what? ok one more i didnt see in the picks now the bodys off what did your put it on ? glad to see our cars are practical the same . well let me know thanks for sharing .

Hi Lucky, thanks for the comments, I have posted some more detailed pics of the lift procedure. One thing, I take pics of everything as I go along to document stuff, and remind me how to put everything back together ! ( gotta love digital cameras ).

I plan to rebuild it with all the original stuff, ( not a 100 point concourse ), but nice enough to get some use out of it ( or a part in a movie !). I notice I have a 'top oiler' mounted to the bulkhead, and there isn't on yours ?, could be just a Canadian option. 90% of the parts engine / suspension etc was cleaned in a floor based grit blaster, then to be pointed. some of the body parts has had the old undercoat removed with a flame ( watch them fumes...), in some areas the undercoat was about an inch thick and had to come off with a Hammer and chisel....

Hope these pics help in your project

Regards

Colin

ya there is a lot of under coating on my car to.for the

top oiler no mine does not have one it. Thanks for posting more pics. I am the same on restoring using all origanal parts on it .not to 100point s but close and driving as much as i can well throw some more pics up when you get more. I know ive took a alot my self to help and show what went on.

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Hi all just need to ask. Im getting ready to pull the motor and trans. I figured i will pull them together. Then seprate when out.my question is were do you hook to when pulling the flat head six? I have a cherry picker and chain. Just wasnt sure the best way to.hook it. Thanks all have a great weekend.

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The oiler was an accessory, could be bought and installed on any car. Was supposed to lengthen engine life by oiling the valves, rings and cylinders. Now that they stopped putting lead in the gas it could be more important than ever. What brand is it?

A good way to hook the motor is to make 2 lifts out of old spark plugs. Knock out the porcelain with a punch, weld an eye bolt to the steel part. Hook a short chain to the eye bolts. Also handy for lifting off a cylinder head.

Factory recommends removing transmission then lifting out engine and bellhousing. This is with body in place, you may be able to remove the whole thing as an assembly.

The oiler was an accessory, could be bought and installed on any car. Was supposed to lengthen engine life by oiling the valves, rings and cylinders. Now that they stopped putting lead in the gas it could be more important than ever. What brand is it?

A good way to hook the motor is to make 2 lifts out of old spark plugs. Knock out the porcelain with a punch, weld an eye bolt to the steel part. Hook a short chain to the eye bolts. Also handy for lifting off a cylinder head.

Factory recommends removing transmission then lifting out engine and bellhousing. This is with body in place, you may be able to remove the whole thing as an assembly.

thanks i was wondering on the best place to hook it .i was just going to pull a couple corner head bolt ,then hook to them .i will have to see on pulling them together.the front clip is off the car so wont take much height,to get it out at all .thanks for the reply that helps

Ok have a question. You said to remove the transmition and leave the bell houseing on the motor. So i need to unbolt and remove theback half of the transmison (aka tiptoe hydrolic gearbox ) is this right? .and once unbolted will it slide apart or what do.i need to get it apart? Thanks for the info

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ok got it apart so in the morning the engine will be out . then the fun begins again i am learning alot .cleaning cleaning cleaning .so i can tell whats parts of the car and whats not . so i will keep ya posted on what i find inside the motor and the rest .thanks all for info so far .im sure there will be more .

Ok motors out. How do you.get the lower case of the housing off? I got all the bolts out. I can put a pry barr and see its free i. The front. But the back seems to be stuck. Any tricks to do just dont want to mess the case up. Thanks for your help

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Do you mean the oil pan? You should remove the transmission and clutch housing pan first. Then take out the bolts and the pan should come off. It may need to be pried off if the gasket is stuck. Are you sure you got all the bolts? Use your common sense, look and see if anything is holding it.

Do you mean the oil pan? You should remove the transmission and clutch housing pan first. Then take out the bolts and the pan should come off. It may need to be pried off if the gasket is stuck. Are you sure you got all the bolts? Use your common sense, look and see if anything is holding it.

No the bell houseing /clutch lower section. So i can get it off then i can take the top of he housing off so.i can get to he torqe converter and fly wheel so i can mount to the engine stand. Im guess thats the way to take apart to.get to the rest of it right?

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Ok got it i feel stupid had 2 back bolts were covered in gunk. Thought i had them all lol thanks guys.

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