chrysler`53 polarity conversion

Hi...

I am searching for any informations about converting my ´53 chrysler

from 6V positive earth to 12V negative earth.

What has to be changed to get this done?

(starter, heater / wiper / window motors, instruments / senders, relais,

lamps, switches ???)

Thanks for Help,

regards, henry.

Best advice, don't do it. Keep the 6 volt system and repair whatever is wrong. It will be better and cheaper.

I could go into detail but will just mention a couple of points. The control system for your transmission is 6 volt only, they went to a different type transmission when they went to 12 volts, so there are no 12v substitutes for the original parts.

The radio is 6V and polarity sensitive. I can be rebuilt as a 12V + ground but all the tubes, and some other parts must be replaced by an expert electronics technician who is familiar with tube radios.

Those are the big issues. In addition you would need all new bulbs, alternator, possibly a starter, a coil, your windshield wipers are electric, also your heater blower, and your gauges.

When you got all done you would still have to fix whatever is wrong with it now. It is much easier, cheaper and better to just fix it right off the bat and keep it stock.

There are other contributors to this board who have driven similar cars thousands of miles on 6 volts. I am sure they will confirm what I have said.

Now if you still have problems, tell us what is wrong with your car and we will try to advise the easiest way to fix it.

I must agree with Rusty...as usual.

First time,many thanks for you information.

I have changed the automatic to a BOB 350-bulbs-radio-altenator and distributor with coil,

will change the gauges ,wiper and heater blower and e-window.My problem is the change from possitiv-ground to 12 volt negativ ground in the wiresystem and switches connection.

If you have junked the original engine and transmission you might as well rip out the radio and replace it with a cheap Chinese stereo. Then all you need to do is find a 6 volt power source for the other accessories. They are not polarity sensitive.

A six volt power source can be as simple as a center tap off your 12 volt battery. There are also voltage drop devices available from hot rod shops. Some use resistors, some are Zener diodes and some use more sophisticated electronics.

By the way if it is not too late you should save all the "old junk" you took out of the car. If you ever go to sell the car, it will make it more saleable at a better price if you have all the parts to restore it.

The imperials were built with 12 volt systems.

Ron

The imperials were built with 12 volt systems.

Ron

Not in 53.

But begining in 56 like all of the other Mopars.

I have a used 6volt generator and a brand new regulator for the early Imperial for sale. (1953)

The Imperial generator is much bigger than the other Mopars of the era.

This Imperial had power windows and A/C if I remember correctly.

Then my motors manual is in error as it states crown imperials starting in 1953 have 12 volt systems and the rest were 6 volt.

"The 1953 Crown Imperials came with a 12-volt electrical system and Chrysler's

first fully automatic transmission, called PowerFlite." - wikipedia

Ron

Then my motors manual is in error as it states crown imperials starting in 1953 have 12 volt systems and the rest were 6 volt.

"The 1953 Crown Imperials came with a 12-volt electrical system and Chrysler's

first fully automatic transmission, called PowerFlite." - wikipedia

Ron

You are correct

Sorry rsd. I have never owned a 53 Crown.

It is good to learn this stuff.

One minor little difference in the 6 volt systems vs 12 volt systems is the gauge of the wire in the wiring harnesses. The 6 volt system wires are very possibly a larger gauge than those used in 12 volt systems.

Reason I say that is that my machine shop operative, who was around when people started converting vehicles to 12V systems for better starting with transplanted hot rod V-8s, said that you could tell a "converted" vehicle as the larger gauge 6 volt wiring harness carried more "juice" to the light bulbs, which made the car look (as he noted) like it was "lit up like a Christmas tree" compared to the normal vehicle.

Sounds like you need to order up one of the Painless Performance wiring harness kits and re-wire the vehicle for what you're going to do with it. The vintage wiring insulation could well need replacing anyway.

It's one thing to upgrade to a 8V battery for better starting performance, but going to 12V is quite a different situation. If you've got a high compression V-8 in the car (of any brand), it'll need the 12V system to fire the spark plugs like they need to be.

Regards,

NTX5467

One minor little difference in the 6 volt systems vs 12 volt systems is the gauge of the wire in the wiring harnesses. The 6 volt system wires are very possibly a larger gauge than those used in 12 volt systems.

Reason I say that is that my machine shop operative, who was around when people started converting vehicles to 12V systems for better starting with transplanted hot rod V-8s, said that you could tell a "converted" vehicle as the larger gauge 6 volt wiring harness carried more "juice" to the light bulbs, which made the car look (as he noted) like it was "lit up like a Christmas tree" compared to the normal vehicle.

Sounds like you need to order up one of the Painless Performance wiring harness kits and re-wire the vehicle for what you're going to do with it. The vintage wiring insulation could well need replacing anyway.

It's one thing to upgrade to a 8V battery for better starting performance, but going to 12V is quite a different situation. If you've got a high compression V-8 in the car (of any brand), it'll need the 12V system to fire the spark plugs like they need to be.

Regards,

NTX5467

Heavier gauge wire is required for 6 volt systems, because of the higher amperage it requires.

The problem with most 6 volt systems, is after years the contacts get dirty, the grounds are poor, something that is far more critical than witha 12 volt system.

The secret witha 6 volt system , wire in good condition, all grounds, in good clean condtion, all contacts in clean shape.

If the starter is in good working order, and the battery, genny or alternator( GM single wire alt converted easily to 6 volt neg or pos), plus battery cables in the 2/0 welding cable size. This is what I use, and have no issue with my 6 volt system.

If you need to convert to 12 volt for some reason, say modern engine, air conditioning, or anything else that sucks the juice, otherwise, if the car is to remain basically stock, then finding what issues there are with the 6 volt system, and correcting them will be far easier, and less hassle.

I know some Chryslers like mine the C38 1947 Chrysler had only 1 stop lamp, because the signal switch is only 3 wire, there were no stock brake lights incorprated with the rear tail lights.

This can be changed with a simple set of relays, wired into the brake and signal circuit to allow the brake light sot work with the signal light and tail lights....

in 1953 the imperials were 6 volt and fluid drive up until i think june of the production year when they went to the powerflite automatic. i had one about 5 years ago and it was 6 volt but had the powerflite. they must have went to 12 volt a little later in the production year. the car rode great but floated a little in the turns. very heavy car.nicer than the cadillacs of that year. dennis

The only Chrysler product that I ever owned was a 54 New Yorker.

It was loaded with power steering and brakes. It had the powerflite lever on the dash. "Park" was the emergangy brake on the drive shaft.

I gave $10.00 for it in 1970. Transmission was "out" and was blowing oil after the tail shaft seal was replaced but before ithe tranny went out.

I adjusted the band and used an ice pick to clear the rear breather vent.

At 6 volts, it started easily. A couple of pats of the gas pedal and a touch of the key and it roared to life like the 55 Olds did - 59 Olds never started that easy. Rode better than my 55 and 59 Olds of course anything rode better than 59/60 govmo cars.

I sold it for $100 - huge profit back then. The main reason I sold it was that took forever to get to 60 mph compared to the Olds. If it had has a torgueflite - I might have been a Chrysler man. I guess that was the reason for torqueflite 3 years later.

Ron

Note on the 12 volt Imperials above. The Crown was the long wheelbase limo and was 12 volts. Standard Imperials were 6 volts.

Correct and noted above - the jest of the comments is that there are 12 volts parts that did/do exist to make conversions - they will be rare parts due to low production numbers but they are out there.

Ron

rsd, the 54 chrysler's all had the shift lever on the steering column. you may have really had a 55 chrysler as they may have moved the shifter to the dash. in 55 they were 6 volt but i think they went to 12 volt later in the production year. in 56 all were 12 volt. my first 54 chrysler was a windsor convertible i bought for $13 at a used car lot. he wanted $15 but i got $2 off because it had a flat tire. that was 1966. today i own another 1954 windsor convertible which cost alot more. should have kept the first one. denis

I have a used 6volt generator and a brand new regulator for the early Imperial for sale(1953)

Make me an offer. The Generator is BIG. And heavy. It came from an all power car. Dont know how good it is but it is clean and the regulator is new in the box.

Heavy to ship, but doable.

It could have been on the column - I have slept since then - it was a 54. When did push buttons show up - my car did NOT have push buttons on the dash.

jack-m - Does your generator have the setup for power steering?

Just curious if anyone would want an alternator inplace of the genny?

Ron

The generator that I have does not have the PS pump on it.

As for the shifter, The 55s had a lever on the dash and the 56s had push buttons.

I converted my '49 Ford to 12v and reversed the polarity,, using a GM "one wire" alternator eliminated the voltage regulator.......I installed "runtz" (voltage reducers) on the original gauges that remained---the starter and overdrive solenoid still work perfectly after three years.

Many thanks for your replays.

Henry