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1924 dodge brothers


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Does anyone know what the set screw on the right side of the engine is for,it is towarrd the back of the engine. It is about in line with the last bearing of the cam,but i don't think it has anything to do with the cam.But i don't know, any infor. appreciated.

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That is for the oil feed blow out plug. From the Mechanics Instruction Manual "The oil feed pipe in engine should be cleaned at least once each season with compressed air. This can be accomplished by removing the oil feed blow out plug and the oil check valve cap and blow out with compressed air."

I hope that helps!

Roland

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Boy yes that helps, I would not ever figured that out,thanks a lot. I have restored a lot of model a and ts, but dodge brothers are all new to me ,I will proably have a lot more question later. dodge are a lot different than anything I worked on before,thanks agin

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Bill I am also new to the Dodges, my other car is a 1923 T model tourer and I love mucking about in it and driving it around, "a horseless carraige". I now have a 1923 Dodge pickup and am having alot of fun getting it ready to license. I have a leaky gearbox at the front where it drips out the clutch drainhole, may need to tend to that. My oil pressure is right up there so I will have a look at blowing out the line as Roland outlined. thanks Roland. cheers, John.

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Guest FOlsen

Me too. A couple of T's and now a 26 DB. Running and now drives with new brakes, seals, etc, but the paint, upholstery and glass are still on the way.

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I have a '25. My Mechanics' Instruction Manual states that for engines after car A875-380, "the oil feed pipe in engine should be cleaned at least once each season with compressed air". My car's ID for 1925 is well below A875-380. Today, I checked my car and the only oil tube I can see on the right side of the engine is running from the oil check valve to the oil pressure gauge. Where is the oil feed pipe (on the 1924) that should be cleaned? Can anyone provide any photo's?

Edited by FMF (see edit history)
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Hi fmf, It isn't a tube it is a set screw in the block.It is on the right hand side near the back of the engine . About where the last cam bearring is .I would take a picture but me engine in the shop being bored out.If you can't found it from this I'll take a picture when I get it back,Bill

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FMF, The "tube" referred in the manual is a passage way in the block that runs just above the oil line going to the guage, from the check valve at the front of the engine. The oil feed blow out plug is located at the lower left corner of the rear valve cover. On my 23 the oil line is attached to the blow out plug. I have my oil pan off now and will be cleaning the tube shortly.

Roland

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Guest Backyardmechanic

FMF:

Look on the right side rear of engine there's a nut that holds the cooper line to a strap just before the bent of the line to the oil gage. remove the nut and strap there's a stud with a slot for a screw driver remove this stud there's the hole that is in the oiler tube that lubs the engine bearings.

Vern

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Once again - thanks for the detailed instructions. I've owned the car since 2004 and never cleaned this oil feed pipe. Today I did blow it out with compressed air. I was expecting to see all kinds of scum and crud blown out. Absolutely nothing but air came out. Nevertheless, it will now be part of my regular annual maintenance.

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  • 2 years later...
That sounds interesting. One you get it open be sure to keep us informed

OK......the seat does indeed lift to reveal a compartment for tools...... :)

I'm going to have change the geometry of the back cushion in order to accommodate the radius of the cushion as it opens.

I think tucking in the bottom of the back cushion will do the trick.

post-93523-143141922739_thumb.jpg

post-93523-143141922747_thumb.jpg

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^ It is NOW.........but when I'm finished organizing the seat it won't be....... ;)

My upholstery guy is coming over in a hour. He's a TOP NOTCH upholsterer and he'll know what's what in an instant.

Mind you I CANNOT fault Bill.

I still can't believe the monumental job he did with this thing....... :cool:

Edited by cahartley (see edit history)
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Would someone please post a, straight on, side photo of how far forward the front back rest is supposed to be?

This is where I'm at and I think once the springs are padded and compressed it'll be good to go for lifting the seat cushion for storage access....... :)

post-93523-143141925282_thumb.jpg

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While I KNOW my hauler felt Bill's pain as that car left his place I'll be very VERY interested when he gets going on the next project.

I know what it is but I'm not telling........ :rolleyes: .,.......it's gonna be a dandy....... :cool:

That said.......I worked for HOURS getting the horn to work properly.

Of all the convoluted ways to make horn HONK........ :mad:

I was going to put a Klaxon horn on it but the particular 12 volt horn I have is a single wire horn.

With this Dodge system the only way I can do it is to electrically isolate the Klaxon from the car so the original horn is on again........for now....... ;)

Edited by cahartley (see edit history)
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The HORN saga is OVER.......I thought I had it whipped but didn't so the steering wheel came off again.

The collector ring just under the steering wheel hub is made of a bakelite or phenolic material molded around a brass ring. At both sides of the collector ring are raised shoulders which ride on the steering shaft and hold the collector ring concentric at all times. The upper shoulder was warn nearly smooth with the brass so THAT was why the horn would off on its own all the time....... :mad:

Luckily, some years ago, I had purchased a 4" 3 jaw chuck for the machine shop which turned out to be indispensable for this job as it is small enough that I could chuck the collector from the inside........ :)

So I counter bored the worn side of the ring and made a nylon washer to restore the shoulder and hold the darn thing where it belongs!

Wanting to get rid of the BEEP BEEP horn and use my AHOOGA horn I I scrounged up a piece of rigid 3/16" thick nylon and made an adapter to isolate the horn from the car body and it works great.

Having the full potential of the battery hooked directly to the horn scares me to death so tomorrow a 10 amp inline fuse is going in.

Edited by cahartley (see edit history)
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