Brakes are breaking me. . .

My 89 that i bought in Florida and drove all the way up the coast to DE with like, no brakes, is proving to be a major hassle to diagnose. No fluid in the back bleeders. Barely stops. Can not get it passed for registration w/o brakes. I need to have a diagnostic path to follow, in order to pinpoint the problem. The guys that i bought it from tried to remove the Master cylinder, and did not have a replacement for it. any help in figuring out how to proceed would be very much appreciated. It is a beautiful car, with a custom paint job, and is worth driving everyday. I love it and just want it on the road as my daily driver. Thanks a bunch, in advance

Duane Bass

Dbass@cavtel.net

Dwight, this is a copy of what LouZ posted about our unique breaking system. When I did mine, It took several attempts before I got fluid at the rear passenger side.

When you first turn on the ignition you should hear the pump run. Depending on the status of the accumulator, this could be from ten seconds or longer. If the pump does not run it could be a bad pump or an electrical problem. If the pump runs for over a minute you probably have a bad accumulator.

You can also do a search on this site and get lots of brake information. you can also go the the Buick Reatta section. They used the same brakes and there is some trouble shooting stuff there. Anyway, here is the stuff from LouZ

FIRST MOST IMPORTANT.. Brake system is pressurized, working pressure is about 2900 lbs. What we all refer to as a master cylinder is on the TC a switch with multiple valves, a motorized pump, & a reservoir

When opening system for filling or any other reason key must be off and pedal pumped until it is hard as a rock..(No pressure assist). Front wheels are just as any other car. Rears are completely different. Switch off.. Pump pedal as described.. Jack up car remove rear wheels, crack open bleeders then reclose.. fill brake fluid reservoir . close cap.. Turn on key.. use pedal depresser to hold down pedal.. Open right side bleeder.. close when fluid runs clear (no bubles).. Do the same on left side.. Turn off key install tires etc. pump down pedal, refill reservoir. all should be OK.

Thank you very much for the info. . . It is a start. I will search the site religiously, including the Reatta section!

Thanks again

Hello Dwigth;

I hope you had success with LouZ procedure that Pizzaman provided. I have been through a similar problem with my 89 TC. You might want to also check the two fuses that are located in an electrical box in the engine compartment at the forward side of the right splash shield.

Since the car came out of Florida there is a chance these two fuses might be blown.

Take care in opening the black plastic cover of this electrical box.

I will send, to your email address, the latest addition of the TC Club news letter has a brake article you might find interesting.

Best of luck in finding the fault with your 89 TC's brakes.

Happy New Year!

Cheers,

Majmx

Suffolk, England

To Majmx

I have recieved your info, and thanks for that. . . I am planning on joining TC America. I have since found that the electric booster pump motor assembly does not seem to be working. Does this mean that i have to replace the whole MC? I have the Chrysler shop manual on this car, and the list of tests is daunting, plus I have to have a special plug. I am more of the simple R&R mechanic. When it starts getting complicated, I get frustrated. . .

Thats where i am at now. . .

I do not hear the pump at start up. . .

I am wondering what to do next. . . I will go back to the instructions on line and see if there are any suggestions

Thanks again

Now you need to check the fuses and the wires that go to the fuses under the hood. That little black box on the passenger side of the engine compartment holds them. It is known to get corrosion and bad connections that will keep power from getting to the pump motor.

Dwight

Chances are high that you have a electrical problem, not a failed pump. As Majmx said there are two fuses. Even if the fuses test good there is a good chance that they are not making good contact either because of corrosion or just loose. It is really a poor set up.

Mine were so bad that when I pushed the fuse in, it pushed the wires out of the bottom of the box.

I too have been to hell and back with the brakes on both my cars. And you are right, the servcie manual is not easy to follow. But hang in there. Check all of the electrical stuff first. Joining the TCA is a good first step to take. Let us know what you find out as you tackle this problem

hey there david

I grew up in Berdoo. I lived in Lake elsinore and Victorville for 35 years. i am now in Delaware, and I thank you for the info. . . I will check that now. it is usually the easy stuff that we miss. I did not even realize that there was a fuse box in the engine compartment, i thought that they were all in the cab. . .

I just uploaded a few photos of my car, and here they

are

The fuses look good, but there are 3 relays in the box that i have no idea if they are good, or even what are they for. . . I will check my book, but it is like wading through quicksand. . .

Unique look Dwight, glad someone saved that one:cool: It popped up on the Fla Craigslists for a loooooong time. Was it Titusville or St Augustine or Silver springs? One of those I think, but then again my brain is not what it used to be:o Bad brakes have sidelined more TC's into eternal storage/scrapyards than any other cause from what I can discern.

Alan

Alan, I know that I am new to the TC and I will be amongst for , thingking this , but put a none ABS brake system on a TC and drive it ! OK let me have it. Bob

Bob, you are correct, to a point. But it's not the ABS that's the only culprit in the braking system. The main actuator (master cylinder) is also problematic and it is not readily replaceable with a non-accumulator unit due to severe space limitations. If you look at this area you will easily see there is no space for a booster.