1913 Metz 22

I thought I'd begin a thread on my 1913 Metz "22" Roadster. The number indicates horsepower of the Metz engine. In fact the roadster body was the only one offered by Metz in '13 (along with a somewhat stripped-down "Special" model). I've owned the car for a couple years, purchasing it in Maryland from a gent whose father bought it for him when he was a teenager. It sports a c1950s restoration which has served to preserve the car. I see no big rust problems (yet).

The Metz is a friction-drive car like the Sears buggy, the Cartercar and numerous others. All these cars seem to use the same system: a fiberboard wheel pressed against an aluminum drive disc. You can see similar drives on modern snow blowers.

Anxious to get going, I decided to pull the engine. Though it had decent compression, I discovered the upper radiator hose almost completely clogged by rust. The coolant passages were similarly filled. It was a slow process to remove the head, especially since I failed to see some of the nuts hidden underneath. I doubt it has been off in decades. I decided to have it rebuilt by Jess Miller in West Chester, PA (now in Lincoln University, PA I think). They discovered an interesting repair: a weld in the block around the rear of the crankshaft. Apparently, someone bumped the starting crank on a telephone pole or something... just enough to push the crank out the back! The repair looked pretty good, and we decided it would hold. We put in new .020 oversize pistons adapted by Egge and new valve Model T adjustable lifters to replace the worn originals. One cylinder was sleeved.

Phil

To continue, I painted the engine black. No one seems to know what the original Metz color was, and black looks pretty good. The cars themselves were "dark blue with cream wheels", as the Metz catalog put it. I'll have to find a good dark blue color. In 1913, Cadillac also offered dark blue only, so perhaps a Cadillac collector would know a good fomula. I believe, from photos of original cars, that the chassis was also the same blue. After all, the Metz (at $495) was a bargain-priced car and, like the Ford T, a one-color scheme is cost-effective.

Last week, I began some body work, stripping off the fenders and bringing them along with the disassembled hood pieces to the metal stripper. I use Redi-Strip in Alentown, PA. This is a cavernous warehouse that must have housed a railroad car facility at one time. I've had several other cars stripped there, and they truly take off all the paint; also all the aluminum, lead, rubber and anything else non-steel. The results can be shocking because you never know what lurks under the Bondo and fiberglass. I brought one fender from a 1921 car which looked decent but, after all the patches and rust were washed off, you could read a newspaper through it! This process, which uses heat and chemicals, really starts you off fresh: no rust or other junk is left on the body. We'll see what happens...

I believe

Charles Metz had been in the car business since the 1890s, then left to become a technical editor of a motorcycle journal. He returned with a bang in 1909 to resue the remains of his former firm by selling the parts off in kit form. After about 14 payments of $25, you had yourself an air-cooled 2-cylinder roadster. His 4-cylinder assembled cars, beginning about 1912, sold for even less than the kits, and they all used friction drive. Metz's engine designer had worked for Ford, and it showed. The 4-cylinder, water-cooled Metz engine can be mistaken for the Model T version. There are a few differences, however: an oil pump, a 2-piece block, and no transmission attached. Anyway, a lot of Ford parts fit the Metz including pistons (with a little machining), valves, head gasket (with one hole alteration) and other things.

Metz HQ is still in Waltham, Mass. where the cars were made. The Waltham Museum has several Metz cars, and hosts occasional Metz get-togethers. I attended one in 2008, and photographed the Metz factory. Yes, it was still there in Waltham. Unfortunately, it is no more.

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Metz had a good run. He won the final 1913 Glidden Tour, bought a mansion overlooking his new factory; even dabbed in the aircraft business. Alas, the business finally died in 1921 with a 6-cylinder assembled car (shaft drive). Metz moved to California and opened a cabinet shop, living into the mid-'thirties.

Charles's son Walter in one of the 1913 Glidden Tour cars. Walter lived right into the 1960s.

Phil

Phil:

Are you sure that the friction wheel "Tire" is in fact fiber; and not really old hardend & dried-out rubber ?

Those friction drive "Tire" wheels do not last very long at all~~~

The slower you drive the more the friction drive "Tire" wears~~~

Stock-up on those friction "Tires"

Dad had a friend years ago with a car that had a similar crude drive system~~~

His friction drive was a rubber "Tire" that ran on the aluminum dive disc .

Moving the drive "Tire" in or out from the center of the aluminum drive disc gave you some variable speed control !

He always carried several spare replacment rubber friction "tire" wheels .

Does this drive system not also remind you of the Seeburg Coin Piano power transmssion drive system ?

I am glad you started this thread~~~

It will be great to watch your restoration progress on this unusual & rare early auto !

Yes, the drive wheel is fiber, though I'm not exactly sure what fiberboard is made of. In fact, there is still a company that makes them: Paper Pulleys in Tennessee. Cost for a Metz fiber drive wheel: $300. Cost in 1913: $3.50.

Phil

MISSING METZ PARTS

Every old car has something missing (at least the ones I buy do). My Metz is missing the top, the pan covering the bottom of the engine, the two chain guards, and the windshield (it's not much of a "shield", being only a light iron framework covered in leatherette and celluloid). The windshield I got with the car was cobbled from some hardware store iron bars; not very good. I got lucky in finding Jason at Metalmenderz who is restoring a Metz like mine. Jason mostly does hot rods and custom body work, but he agreed to copy some of the Metz parts he has to fit my car. I've already gotten the engine pan (that covers the bottom of the engine), and he will soon copy the windshield as well. John Boorinakis, also in California, agreed last week to make me a set of top irons. I had some measurements taken from another car, and that was all he needed.

A part often missing on the Metz are the chain covers. The car has a double chain drive with removable fiberboard/sheet metal covers to protect the chains. Metz claimed the chains "run in oil", but I'm not sure if these covers actually hold oil. However, they serve the useful job of warding off wearing debris. Former owners found these guards a pain to remove for maintenance, so they often get lost as mine did. I'm hoping to find someone who can lend me one so I can copy it. If anyone knows of one currently detached, let me know. I'd like to make a measured drawing so others may make them as well.

(left) Rear view of Metz chain guard. (right)A Metz engine pan. Note coil spring

attachment.

Phil

I wonder if that mag would bolt right on a Model T with minimal fitting? Repair of internal mags is such a hassle.

The Ford T has a unique "low tension" magneto design; quite different than the Metz which has a standard Bosch DU4 high-tension magneto. The Metz starts using the magneto, but the Ford uses dry cell batteries and a coil. I believe you could switch the Ford T to a high tension magneto, but there is no bracket for it as the Ford magneto is, as you say, inside the transmission housing. The Ford is more complex, perhaps, but quite dependable. Why switch something that works fine?

It's interesting that the Metz magneto has no timing adjustment to advance or retard the spark. You just set it at a "medium" spark and hope for the best. Some Metz owners substitute a Bosch magneto with adjustable spark for touring. It's the same size as the non-adjustable model and can be easily switched.

Phil

I removed the Metz steering rack and pinion today. The pinion gear took a while to pull, as I didn't have a gear puller that fit. I finally broke down and bought a 3-jaw #103 Posi-Lock puller from Sears. As it turned out, the 2-jaw model would have fit better, but this one did the job. I soon discovered why the steering wheel had about 30-degrees of free play: the "rack" gear that the pinion turns is attached to the drag link (steering linkage) with a key on its shaft. The key was completely missing. This meant that the Metz had no real connection between the steering wheel and the front wheels! It apparently worked only by the tightness of the fit. The last owner must have driven very little or led a charmed life!

Phil

Why switch something that works fine?

My thought was for those whose magnetos don't work fine. As similar as the Metz is I was just curious it it might be an easy bolt-on thing. I know many people whose engines and transmissions are in fine condition, but it's a major undertaking (and expense) to have to disassemble the whole thing just to get to the mag when it needs work and I thought it might make an easy bolt-on fix until it came apart for something else.

The fiction wheel in my dad's Sears is original. He's been driving it for 40 years. It's 100 years old. I would say that's pretty good durability.

We lifted the body off the chassis today, making this a genuine "body off" restoration. For some reason, Metz used about 20 bolts to hold on the one-seat body. It would seem to me that 6 would have done the job. Anyway, it wasn't heavy; just took several hours to find all the inaccessible connectors. I'm still seeking even a tiny spot of the original blue finish, but have found none. The last re-paint (perhaps 50 years ago?) must have been preceded by a thorough stripping. Most of the chassis nuts are square, which makes me think them original. I plan to strip the body with Citristrip, a stripper without methylene chloride and the scent of orange Jello.

Phil

Great,and keep the post up.

Finally, everything removed from the chassis and nothing left but two steel rails and a couple braces. I'm hoping I can replace all the various parts in their correct location as there are about 30 holes on each side.

Stripping off paint can reveal some interesting (or horrifying) things. In this case, more interesting. The chassis/cowl section and seat frame look quite different; the cowl seeming quite fresh and clean; the seat showing signs of previous paint, sanding and oxidation. My first thought was that the cowl section was replaced, but it's a very nice job; no Bondo, all the correct-looking wire edging and beading. I'm resting with the opinion that I won't have to do much to it.

Dis-assembly revealed the workings of the friction-drive transmission. In the photo below, you can see the large aluminum drive disc contacting the fiber friction wheel (seen from above). The "clutch" pedal pulls the aluminum disc away from the fiber wheel to allow the fiber wheel to move left and right. The closer the fiber wheel is to the center of the aluminum disc, the lower the "gear". Move the fiber wheel to the opposite side of the always-spinning disc, and you go in reverse. In the photo, the aluminum disc is pivoted on the chassis at the top.

Everything seems in quite good condition. Some say that Metz has a good survival rate because they never worked right and were quickly pushed to the back of the barn. I hope to put the lie to that idea!

Phil

Phil:

What more, other than what you already mentioned above, must be done to your engine itself ?

Have you in-fact tried to actually start & run the repaired/restored engine ?

Have you inspected it for other unusual wear ?

I find thae fact that t is very similar to a model "T" interesting.

It's a wonder old Henry Ford did not try to shut Metz down !

You mentioned it actually has an oil pump !

Where does it actually supply the pressurized oil ?

Just to the mains & crank + rods ?

As you stated earlier~~~

This friction drive transmission is almost exactly like my modern crafsman snowthrower !

When do you expect your Metz project to be finished ?

Will you tour your finished Metz ?

In France or Europe?

The engine is now rebuilt, but as yet untested. It had rather light wear, so I think it will be OK. I think Ford had bigger fish to fry than to sue Metz. Even though there are similarities to the Model T, their engines are definitely different. Plus, Ford made more cars in a week than Metz did in a year.

I doubt I'll drive it in Europe; a hundred miles on a tour would be reward enough!

I used to belong to the Delaware Valley Model A club(MARC) in Northeast Philadelphia. They had a long time member named Al Irvine who owned a Metz as well as a few Model As and Ts. I always thought it was an adapted T engine in there. Al has been gone for 10 or more years,is it possible that your car came from him?

I don't think my car belonged to Mr. Irvine. The last owner (in Maryland) had it since about 1978, and the owner before that claimed to have bought it new. That would have made him an old guy!

Phil

I've driven my dad's Sears quite a bit. The two-cylinder engine tops out at about 1200 rpm, and has an enormous flywheel that stores quite a bit of kinetic energy. The Sears' "clutch" pedal is opposite of what you describe, in that the driver steps on it to engage the driven disc, and therefore has to keep his foot on it to keep the car moving.

I'd love to drive a Metz to see how the friction system works with a four-cylinder engine that can rev a little more freely, and with a more conventional clutch pedal. I've always thought they were neat little cars.

Just thought I'd post an old Metz Ad for reference - RICK

Thanks, Rick. The "Metz Executive Mansion" exists today. Charles Metz purchased the 1806 "Gore Place" in 1911, moving his family in one half, and the Metz offices in the other. The Metz factory was not far away. He stayed there until the company was dissolved in 1921. I see no mention of Metz on the home's web site.

Here's a 1913 newspaper clipping of the Metz factory - RICK

Steve... The Metz clutch works like the Sears, I think. Pressing down holds the two friction discs together (=go). You need not hold it, as there is a ratchet on the pedal arm. Tapping the top of the pedal with your toe disengages the ratchet, and a heavy coil spring separates the two discs. You must be careful not to instinctively "jam down" the clutch in an emergency stop or you'll be in trouble!

Phil

This mystery involves the countershaft bearings (see illustration below). This is the shaft that the friction wheel (2417) turns. Each end of this shaft has a chain sprocket (3416) which drives the larger sprockets on the two rear wheels. This shaft also has the differential (2413). Anyway, each end of the shaft has a ball bearing (2438) which I found no way to lubricate. The sides of these bearings seemed tightly installed, so I thought they might be replacements. "FAFNIR" was stamped on the sides, so I searched that company name. They were founded in 1911 in New Britain, Connecticut. Seemed like they were, indeed, originals. I then checked to lube chart in the Metz Owner Manual. It depicted grease cups (424) on each bearing which matched threaded holes directly above my bearings into which no grease cups were installed. These must be the missing lube points! I probed inside these tapped holes and seemed to see a hole for the grease flow, but I couldn't poke through it. Finally, I pressed out the bearings and made another odd discovery: there are no grease holes... and the ball-bearings are sealed on all sides. Seems like these bearings were replaced many years back. They look old, but they weren't as old as the car. I searched "Fafnir 9109PP" on eBay, the marks on the bearing side. Bingo... there were some NOS bearings for sale! Oddly, they are metric (45mm x 75mm X 16mm wide). Did the last restorer adapt the shaft for this metric sizing? Anyway, I purchased the NOS bearings with the thought that I should replace them while the car is apart.

It is interesting to discover not only the design of the original maker, but also that of the old-time restorers. Hopefully, the new sealed bearings will make a more dependable car without affecting originality.

The Metz Countershaft Assembly

Metz 22 Lube Chart

The ball bearing removed from its housing.

Phil

Phil:

You can always pop-off one of the new replacment bearing side shields and add the missing grease cup lube assembly .

Brass grease cup units can easily be found today~~~

FInd out what size thread is in the grease cup assembly mounting hole.

If you don't actually use these new grease cup units, and instead depend on the lube installed at the bearing factory at least the car would now look correct as compared to your Metz manual.

Is Fafnir bearing Co still in business today ?

Hi Phil

A friend had a 4 cyl Metz in Wales UK. I will have to ask him what happened to it.

He was talking about selling it when we last visited in 2009.

Bernie J.

I got an interesting package of information from The National Automobile Museum in Reno, NV yesterday. I had inquired about the 1913 Metz in their collection, and they dug up some correspondence the Harrah Collection had in 1964 with Franklin B. Tucker who was then AACA Classified Ad Manager (he became AACA President in 1975). Anyway, Mr. Tucker was the world authority on the Metz automobile and wrote an important series of articles about the make for Antique Automobile over 3 issues in 1967. Turns out that he owned a 1913 Metz when he joined the Ohio Region of the AACA in 1948. His Metz was the newest car in the chapter! It's difficult to think the Metz wasn't a nice car considering the interest Tucker had in it. Harrah promoted accurate restorations, and his Metz was no exception. It was missing the chain guards and windshield (like mine), so he wrote to the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry which also had a Metz 22. They removed their windshield and chain guards and sent them to Harrah in exchange for Harrah's technicians restoring the Museum's windscreen. Now that's "pull"... I doubt I could get a deal like that! I wonder if Chicago still has that Metz; I see no mention of it in their web site.

Mr. Tucker wrote some restoration tips to Harry Johnson, Harrah's restoration supervisor. Harrah had an early 1913 roadster with square cowl lights; the Metz catalog showed rounded lights. Tucker said that, though the 1913 models used rounded lights (like the Model T Ford), they used up the old stock of square ones at the start of the model run. Same with the running boards and floor mat: the early 1913 cars used the old battleship grey linoleum; the later ones used black ribbed rubber. He went on to say that the Metz engine was painted gray and the hub caps were black. I painted my engine black, as I've seen no Metz 4-cylinder engines that were gray. I may be wrong, however; should I change it?? Also, the metal running board trim was described as painted steel with the possibility that some were of aluminum. Included was a drawing of how they were made. I've requested photos from the Museum as well.

Harrah's chose the colors for the body and chassis (I think they used Ditzler paint): Dark Blue DQE-11601. For the wheels and pin-striping, they chose a GMC color: Panama Cream DQE-80768. I'm not sure if these color formulas still can be made by PPG, the current owner of Ditzler.

Harrah's kept good records of their restorations, so it's nice to see these. I wonder what happened to Franklin Tucker. Last I heard he was in Seven Lakes, NC; I assume he has passed away. As for his 1913 Metz, perhaps someone know it's whereabouts...

Phil

I received a call today from a fellow Metz restorer in North Dakota. As requested, here is a photo of the Metz shift guide, which is missing in his car. The Metz, like the Cartercar, is theoretically a "car of a thousand speeds" but in fact it has a shift guide that gives you three speeds forward and one in reverse. It may have originally been cast iron, but could easily be fabricated with quarter-inch steel plate, so no need to get a casting done. It's fastened with two flat-head machine screws and nuts. Total width is 4.5 inches. I can mail you a tracing if you send me your address.

Phil

The Metz countershaft (see previous posting for illustration) spins with the friction wheel, driving the chains to the rear axle. It consists of two outer shafts and an inner shaft which connect together at the differential. I'll let you figure out how the differential controls the speed of the two drive chains. It gives me a headache. Anyway, the inner countershafts run in two ball bearings, which I spoke of before. These were originally just loose steel balls in a cage, but someone changed them to sealed ball-bearings at some point. This was a good idea, as the grease cups for these bearings were hidden under the body and required frequent attention. It took some contemplation to figure how these shafts came apart, but it was actually not too difficult. A hydraulic press (or a large arbor press) is necessary. I replaced the ball bearings with new ones just to be safe. The following photos show how I did it.

The right (passenger) side of the countershaft with its central shaft and sprocket wheel removed. Differential housing to left.

Close-up of the right side of above. Casting hold the ball-bearing.

A clamp we used to pull off the sprocket wheel in the press.

Pointing to the old grease cup mounting hole.

Hydraulic press pushing out the shaft (note the socket that fits the I.D. used to press out the inner shaft). This is a tight fit inside the black end piece.

The "black end piece" I mention above with the longer shaft removed. The bearing is pressed onto this piece. Here we see the bearing already pressed off.

The outer race of the bearing is pressed into the housing seen here.

I finally removed the friction wheel from the countershaft and sent it to Paper Pulleys in Tennessee. They supply friction wheels for all the old friction-drive cars like Sears and Cartercar. They call the iron wheel a "hub" and the paper friction disc the "filler". I asked if they could install a 2-part filler so it would be easier to remove when the time came, but I was told they prefer to use a one-piece filler. They never did say why; perhaps it is easier for them to turn it on the lathe. Anyway, they do sell a two-part filler, and that I can cut off the worn one with a jigsaw. I'm not sure of the mileage to expect from a friction disc. Metz said about 3,000; we'll see.

The paper friction disc ("filler") that was in the car. I pulled it apart, but it really is made of layers of paper rather like book-cover material.

Phil

Got the Metz friction disc back today. Paper Pulleys received it on Monday and returned it Tuesday... can't beat that for fast service. The price was even less than they'd estimated. I have no idea how well it will work, but it's definitely a paper pulley. Here is is mounted on the repainted hub, as returned to me today:

Phil

I just got the new Metz top sockets from John Boorinakis in California. They look good. I send him some measurements I took off another Model 22, and John had previously done some sockets. Between my measurements and John's, I got a nice set. I'll just need to get the top bows now. I will probably use Bareville Woodcraft for that. They did a nice job for me on my 1921 Peugeot bows.

Phil

Hi Phil, I thought you may be interested in this add in the latest copy of Pre War Cars.

Metz 1913 for sale - PreWarCar

David

1923 Metallurgique Torpedo

1931 Rolls Royce Phantom 2 Continental

1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe

1947 Mercury Coupe

That's an interesting one, David. Looks like a Metz Special Roadster, which was a somewhat stripped Model 22 painted a flashy color. He's asking 28,000 euros (around $33,000?). The resto wouldn't score well if I judged it!

Phil

My job this week is the chassis rails and rear axle. The chassis is a simple ladder frame with side beams of 3-sided steel. I used a 3M ceramic bristle on my electric buffer to strip the paint on the outside surfaces. For the inside, I'm going to try a Harbor Freight soda blaster which I got on sale for $79. We'll see how well it works...

I also began disassembling the rear axle. The wheels have long tubes which spin on tapered roller bearings. One of these bearings needs replacement, but it's a standard size, so I got it on eBay. Each wheel is driven by a sprocket chain from the countershaft. These chains originally had a fiberboard cover to seal out road debris, but mine are missing. I'm hoping I can get some made or borrow one to copy before reassembly. Note how far the brake drums are from the wheels. More on these later.

One rear wheel wobbles some, so I'll have to see if that needs fixing or not. All the wheels seem solid and in good shape. The chains and sprocket gears also seem to have minimal wear.

Phil

The rear wheels with attached sprockets

The chassis rails, paint stripped

Left rear axle assembly (springs inverted). Not brake shoe and chain drive

I tried out the 15 pound Harbor Freight soda blaster on my chassis rails yesterday. It cost $79 with a coupon, plus about $35 for a bag of soda. Using medium soda, it cut through the paint nicely. It does blow dust all over, and my friend (whose lot I was using) asked if it was lead paint (h-m-m-m). The down side was the thing stopped emitting soda after about 30 minutes, and I couldn't get it to start again after several dis-assemblies and annoyed canister shaking. The soda didn't seem moist, but perhaps I put too much in the canister. The second down-side is the canister fill hole is only about 1/2" diameter, so it took a while to fill it with the little funnel I have. I think a large funnel with narrow spout would be better. You don't want to hold a 50 pound bag of soda over that spout too long. Anyway, I got most of the paint off, and will smooth the rest with sandpaper and then apply epoxy primer when the weather is warmer.

Phil

I purchased the Metz paint today using the touch-up spray color samples I got. I chose "dark blue", a Ford fleet color (W8161H). A fellow AACA guy and Forum member suggested the dealer. They sell PPG products. They didn't have acrylic enamel, but suggested Delfleet Essential, a single-stage polyurethane enamel. Interestingly, it requires two additives for spraying. You get 3/4 gallon plus the additives; enough to mix one gallon. Price was about $157. When the weather warms, I'll report the results.

Phil

Jason, my metal forming friend, has informed me he's ready to do the chain covers for my Metz. These are often missing, and I'll always look at photographs of "restored" cars to see if they're present. How useful were they? Well, they kept the dust and mud from pre-WWI's lousy roads off the chains. I think you could do without them today, but I want them because I know they should be there.

Anyway, I have a question: The originals were made of fiberboard reinforced at the edges with sheet metal. I'm thinking that fiberboard (though it is painted) might be unstable and warp or deform. What about using aluminum for the side pieces? Any thoughts??

Phil

what about aluminum and a glue on fiberboard covering, its hard to see how to hide it, maybe a recessed attachments for the aluminum so the fiberboard inserts could fit in. This would preserve the look and function and, if wear becomes apparent, you replace the insert. just a thought.

I learned something today, thanks to a Metz owner in Pittsburgh. He said his original Metz chain covers are made of sheet steel; the only fiberboard part being the top edge which lifts for chain lubrication. Having never actually handled one of these covers, I had misled myself as to their construction. When I asked Jason at Metalmenderz (who is to make my covers), he confirmed that the originals he'll copy are sheet metal. Well, we learn as we progress!

Phil