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How to do a frame on restoration?


1957buickjim

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I am starting this thread to try to get details on how to do a frame on restoration of my car to have it ready for BCA judging. This thread is an off shoot of another post from Mike5563's progress on his 55 Convertible. He though it would be a good idea to have a separate post, so here it is.

I am interested in hearing all the challenges of working on it in a two car garage, how it was done, tips techniques, lessons learned, maybe who to use for services (plating, paint,etc). I would like to see anyone's photo's of this process. As I progress on my 57 Special, I will post photo's as well.

I would like this thread to be a tool and instruction for all as to how to do it, if the urge hits you, like me.

Thanks in advance for all the advice and information from all the experts out there!:D

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Great thread idea. As I have mentioned before, often times when people with serviceable cars check out threads on this forum, they get the feeling that you absolutely must take a car off of the frame and restore every nut and bolt. In certain cases for instance, if a car is:

A) completely shot, tons of rust, etc.

B) very valuable when finished (and won't be done justice by a cheap paint job)

C) somebody else's project that comes in a bunch of boxes

D) you are retired or a trophy husband (wife) and it will keep you out of the whor--- Er, barrooms.

These are but a few cases when tearing a car down to the ground is necessary or desireable.

Another option which is enviable, is that you have a bunch of money and you send it off to a restoration shop... But we ain't talking about those lucky dogs.

I was able to make a show winning, properly restored, and most importantly, driveable car in my driveway and two car garage.

Most important to this discussion is the fact that (please note) even when you take on a project where you will not be removing the body from the frame, it is still a very expensive hobby. Plating costs can be limited by reusing old parts that are in decent shape. For instance, rechroming a grille is a VERY expensive piece to do properly. Mine didn't have flaking chrome and a minimum of pitting. With a dremel tool with brass wire wheel attachment and some #0000 fine steel wool, I was able to make it shine and be presentable. This saved me well over a grand in chroming costs. My bumpers were in OK shape dent wise, so they didn't need too much metal massaging. I took them to a chrome bumper shop locally who replated them for under $400 each. Are they perfect? Nope. But they are much better than they were.

Your question regarding under car cleanup:

I had rusty floor pans (go figger). I had them replaced with new metal. I didn't have access to a welder at the time and I didn't have the time to learn. This was done as needed. In other words, I did this years before the "restoration" took place. At that time I put a cheap carpet from Kanter in it that fit well but wasn't correct. It didn't matter because I wasn't showing it at the time. So therefore I didn't have undercarriage rust to deal with. In my driveway after work or on the weekends I would break out a heat gun to soften the old undercoating and then scrape it off. Repeat as long as you can stand it, then start it up again. Clean it all with lacquer thinner then paint it with a semigloss paint. You can buy expensive Eastwood paint or just Rustoleum industrial spray paint from your local big box store. You can cheap out, but you still need to make it look good. Take your time... And put a dropcloth on your driveway.

I had also had my rear fender wells patched years before. I did the same thing back there. On a 55, there is very heavy undercoating in the rear wheel wells that will cover a multitude of sins. If you have taken all flamable items out of your car ESPECIALLY THE GAS TANK!!! you can use a propane torch to remove the thick mucky mess known as undercoating.

While the gas tank was out, I took it to a radiator shop who boiled it out and checked for leaks. There were a few small dents in it which I used bondo to fix. Unfortunately, they left residue in the tank that I didn't get entirely clean before using a well known gas tank sealer that failed the first time I filled up. I then sent the tank to a Renu dealer and they sealed it inside and out. It came back black on the outside so I sprayed a silver zinc looking paint over it. From 10 feet away it looks good, but for judging, it isn't correct... My choice.

I then jacked up the car and took various suspension parts off and sanded, primed and painted them black. I didn't have a blasting machine at the time so I did it all with 100 grit sandpaper and brake cleaner. I wasn't nicked for the all black suspension at the Nationals mostly, I believe, because it was clean and uniform.

More later.

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Thanks Mike..That is the kind of information that I can definitely use and I am sure that others can as well as they get into it. You are right about the cost benefit factors...especially now, most of us have less discretionary dinero for the premium costs of this hobby.

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Some more thoughts and recollections.

When my car was painted they took the fenders, inner and outer, off and sprayed both sides. Trunk lid, hood, and doors also. My car was as body off as you can get without actual removal. Whenever I had pieces off, I would clean them and paint them. For example; when I had the engine out I cleaned and painted the frame. When I reattached the fenders, I used the original mounting bolts that I had zinc plated, not just new Home Depot bolts that would fit. Reusing original parts is very important when it comes to ease of reassembly AND judging.

I really hope this is going to be a helpful thread and I hope it will encourage people to do a good job on their cars. However, I do want to state that I do not endorse shoddy workmanship. If you want to let little things slide, that's cool, just don't use this thread to justify bad work. That won't help your car or the hobby. At that point just join the ranks of the "pay the restoration shop" crowd. Cool?

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Many thanks for starting this thread; it's certainly going to help me plot out a plan for the project. I've been trying to go by the mantra of 'one task at a time, each task to completion' but it's easy to get overwhelmed and frustrated when I come across things that the previous owner either ignored or 'fixed' (term loosely used). There's a bit of breathing room and time to research/collect parts now that winter's set in, and I look foward to the postings here.

-Mike

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I am currently doing a body on restoration of my 1930 Buick Model 68 Victoria Coupe. My primary reason for this approach was due to the fact that I simply do not have the space available in my garage to set the body once it was removed from the chassis. Having said that I am using the term "Body on" loosely due to fact that I had to remove all the body bolts and lift the body off the car about an inch or so in order to remove the gas tank shroud and running board valences. I have been attempting to achieve the same level of restoration or at least very close to that as one would by removing the body. In retrospect it would have been much easier to do that by removing the body from the frame. I spent approximately 700 hours laying on my back under the car cleaning the chassis of 80 years of corrosion and road debris to the point where it could be painted. The same thing could have been accomplished with the body off in a much shorter period of time with a great deal less effort. Thankfully that task is now completed and behind me and the chassis looks every bit as good as a body off restoration.

There are additional issues with a body on restoration that one must take into consideration, one of which is the fact that once your chassis is clean and painted, you will need to mask it all off once you start working on the body, otherwise you end up with all the old paint, bondo, etc on your nice clean and painted chassis. One might wish strip the paint from the car at the same time you are cleaning the chassis, but in my case this was not possible simply due to time constraints. Stripping the body to early before it is ready for paint will lead to a lot of rusting body panels and I can't paint the car in the winter. Bottom line is that experience has shown me it is a lot easier to remove the body from the car during the restoration process than not. It is a bit counter intuitive as it would seem the reverse (keeping the body on) is the easier path to take but in reality this is not the case if you are trying to achieve a high level of restoration.

Thanks,

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Great thread!

I too am attempting the very same thing. I have experimented with removing the Tar undercoating....scared me and the mere thought of removing it all puts me on the floor in the fetal position shaking and speaking in tongues.

Mike your posts always inspire me, I will be sure to save this thread for reference when I work up the nerve to get under the car and do it right. Glad to hear that it is not only ok to leave the body on but you can still get award results if you work at it hard enough.

Thanks Jim for starting this thread...required reading for newbies like myself.

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Mike, Thanks for the input thus far..It is nice to know that there are a lot of newbie owners out there looking at how to restore the car but are limited in the time space continuum.

When I first bought my 57, I followed your initial approach of doing the work as I removed parts, frame / suspension when I removed the engine, firewall, sub components. The only problem I had at that time was trying to get information on the car as to the factory finishes (not paint on body, but all the other details). In pre-internet days, finding stuff on a 57 Buick was like trying to find the holy grail!

Now with the technology that we have, and the amazing treasure trove of information that members of the BCA are able to provide us novices, it really helps one to get it right the first time, not having to do it over and over again (though that happens more than we would like to have happen..I guess that is called learning!!!)

Not having touched my chassis, except for the portion forward of the firewall, BTW, coated with POR15, which is holding up extremely well after 20yrs, I wasn't sure how to tackle the underside of the car. I did have to replace the floor pans (F/R), because I thought I had the original Fred Flintstone mobile. Did that, and did topside restore, but neglected the underside. Still OK, but was more interested in driving the car than showing it.

Now that I am a little older and wiser? I want to spruce it up a bit to start to show it. That's hopefully where this thread will lead us to, especially through the passing of lessons learned, ways of doing things that are not mentioned in any factory manuals, service and body proceedures that may be better and or easier than the way it was done back in the day due to new technolgy available to today's restorer.

Thanks to everybody who posts on this thread to increase the collective knowledge base of our hobby!

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Having spent untold hours laying on the concrete floor cleaning the chassis of my 1930 Buick, here are some practical suggestions as to how to accomplish that task:

1) Get the car up on a strong set of jackstands and make absolutely sure that you are completely safe working under the car as you will be spending a lot of time under there. I am using a set designed for truck use and are probably overkill, but this is one area you don't want to compromise on.

2) Remove all four wheels and any other parts that will get in the way of cleaning your chassis. You will find yourself removing as many parts as possible in order to get things thoroughly cleaned.

3) Obtain a variety of wire brushes in different sizes and shapes that can be attached to your drill as well as 6" and 12" drill bit extensions. In addition purchase about a dozen or so 3M abrasive disks that can attached to your drill as well. The abrasive disks are excellent on rust but will wear away fairly rapidly. Note that I burned up 3 drills over the course of cleaning my chassis so it may be a good idea to use a cheaper one if possible. I found a Ryobi at Home Depot that was small in profile with relatively good longevity for around $50. In addition be aware of the fact that the wire brushes are going to wear away, and as they do they leave behind a lot of small pieces of broken steel wire that will find their way through your clothing while you lay on the garage floor. I still have a small piece of wire embedded in my back that I am unable to remove a year later.

4) You will need scrapers and plenty of solvent. I used the purple Castrol Superclean which works well and is not flammable. It is however very caustic and will cause severe skin irritation. Wear the appropriate nitrile gloves when working with this stuff.

6) This process is going to create a huge mess in your garage and there is absolutely no way to avoid it. Plan on covering everything in your garage with painters plastic to avoid getting the debris all over everything.

7) You must wear eye and lung protection at all times. A dust mask is not enough. Use a full painters respirator that you can get at Home Depot for around $30. This process will raise a lot of fine airborne dust containing all the old toxic paint, chemicals, rust, and silica that you can possibly imagine and you don't want to end up with silicosis. I can't stress the importance of this enough.

8) When the chassis was clean to my satisfaction, I painted it with Eastwood primer and Extreme Chassis Black Satin. This is as tough as you will fine in a rattle can and is an excellent paint. I was immediately able to tell the difference between this and the Home Depot Rustoleum I used on other projects and in my opinion was well worth the additional expense.

9) You can do a very satisfactory job cleaning the chassis with the body on and plenty of time and effort, but bear in mind this is not a pleasant experience. In the middle of the job you may find yourself wondering what possessed you to even take on this task, but it is doable.

Hope this information is helpful.

Thanks,

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Michael,

thanks for the detailed explanation. That is exactly the type of information that I was hoping to get on this forum for all of us non-frame offer's.

A couple of questions: 1. How high did the jack stands lift the car off the ground and maybe the brand or type of jackstands would be helpful?

Do you think an air drill would work as well as the electric drill with the wire brushes and discs?

Also, did you paint the underside of the body different than the chassis? or is it all black?

Thank you so much for your post. It is really helpful.

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Jim,

I lifted my car off the ground as far as my floor jack would go which provided enough room to crawl under there and work but I was still on my back. I never got around to getting a creeper to lay on, just became used to the concrete I guess. I used a set of four 6-ton jack stands from Harbor Freight:

6 Ton Jack Stand Set

These were excellent in construction and very strong. They come in pairs so you will need 2 sets.

Unless you have a very large air compressor I don't think that air tools would work that well for this task due to the amount of time your air tool will be in operation. Your compressor will be running continuously otherwise and I would prefer to wear out a cheap electric drill or two as opposed to my compressor. I have a 220 volt compressor and even with that I don't feel it would have been up to the task. Some of this is of course predicated upon the condition of your chassis to begin with. If you have a layer of undercoating protecting it from rust, that would be a bit easier to deal with but in the case of my 1930 Buick Model 68 on the big 132" chassis they did not use undercoating so everything was buried under road grime and rust. It is a lot easier to remove this corrosion frame off with a sand blaster, but this was not a option for me and many others following this thread. You probably don't want to take the lazy man's way out and simply spray over all the rust with a rust converter, so therefore it needs to be removed. This is a very labor intensive process.

I painted the entire chassis and floor of the car black which it was originally with the exception of the transmission which was olive green. The engine I have fully detailed and painted the same olive green after stripping all the accessories (starter, generator, carb, fuel pump, manifolds, etc) and doing a lot of careful masking of the previously painted chassis.

The next major task will be painting the body and I intend to do that in my garage as well. I am working in one space of a two car garage and doing everything within that space without moving the car. I may therefore construct a temporary paint booth out of PVC pipe and plastic sheeting over the car prior to shooting the paint. I will incorporate an exhaust fan in the paint booth as well, and exhaust the fumes out the front of the garage. I live in a semi rural neighborhood all with multi-acre lots so any potential overspray on the neighbors possessions will not be an issue. My other choice is to construct a paint booth in my driveway, although I am not sure how well it would hold up in the case of inclement weather, so I am still weighing my options on this issue.

Thanks,

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Michael,

Wow! More great info. I will definitely look into those jackstands. If I am reading this right, the underside of your body was painted black, not body color.

My car chassis is not buried under undercoating, I think it is just like yours, corroded on surface, with road grime (maybe not as much as a 1930) but still caked on stuff. Did you powerwash the underside of your chassis and body before you started the wire brush method?

I know that our card our not the same model or year, but it would be great if you could post some photo's of what you have done. A picture is definitely worth a thousand words on the forum.

I do have a large compressor, which is why I asked the question about the drill. Your answer makes sense. I like your idea of the PVC paint booth. I made a parts paint rack out of PVC for painting components (door sill trim, window moldings, small parts, etc.) Worked really well and easy to assemble and disassemble.

I have also thought of using a pop up canopy (10 x 10) as a paint booth as well. I am not sure that it will fit a whole car, but thought for large body parts, doors, fenders, hood etc, it would be easy to assemble with visqueen wrapped on it, and a small frame out of wood to fix a cheap box fan for exhaust with a filter.

I am also contemplating a pressure blaster as well, but I live in the city, and I am not sure that I want my neighbors complaining about all the dust all over everything, plus the sand / medium gets into everything, everywhere. I like your controlled approach with the wire wheels.

Did you use a rust encapsulator over your cleaned chassis, such as eastwoods? What kind of primer did you use? Single Stage ureathane?

Thanks for your insight and what you have done thus far. I would really like to see some pictures, if you would like to post them.

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Bill, Thanks for the post. That is really a pretty good one not only for building the booth, but for doing base coat/clear coat paint at home in your garage. Pretty detailed step by step indtructions.

Mud / Mike..this might be something that you might want to look into if you are going to do this in your garage at home.

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I envy you guys tackling restorations. I hope to do one myself one day and thus my question.

My 56 is a California car, which has undercoating in the wheel wells and floorboards. Is it really necessary to remove the same? I always thought if it was applied new, it was not necessary to remove. But it is mudspattered and I have no idea how to really clean it but leave it intact.

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John,

Take it from a guy who removed all of the undercoating from the bottom of a car, then decided to drive it all over the place. Don't do it if you don't need to. My car gets really hot driving in the Texas heat. As far as the rear fender wells, they CAN be powerwashed then sprayed with a light coat of black spray paint to freshen them up. Remember, only a mechanic looking under you car will ever see the underside of your car. For judging purposes (if that is the desired outcome) clean the undercoating from the frame rails and crossmember, and paint it black. I don't know the extent of AACA chassis judging, but the most important thing in BCA judging is cleanliness IMO.

Obviously, when rust through is an issue on floorpans, etc. you will need to clear the undercoating from that area.

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Hey Bill, thanks for sharing the home made paint booth information as well as how to paint and color sand/buff. I want to try this some day myself. Looks like you did a very good job. I really enveny you guys that can paint a car in your home garage and hope to be able to do the same one day. Thanks again.

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Guest Rob McDonald

BILL, your optimism is amazing, regarding the agonies you had with runs, sags and orange peel in the clear coat on your E-type. Please tell us if and when you are able to fix those disasters. Otherwise, no one in their right mind will ever tackle this kind of work on their own, after reading your account!

Despite being terrified by your painting saga, I love the look of the disassembled pieces of your Jaguar. The tiny doors, massive one-piece hood and the voluptuous body tub - separately, they look like the cut-up parts of a magnificent fish. A Series I coupe like yours is on my list of must-haves, if I'm ever granted an extra life span.

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John,

Take it from a guy who removed all of the undercoating from the bottom of a car, then decided to drive it all over the place. Don't do it if you don't need to. My car gets really hot driving in the Texas heat. As far as the rear fender wells, they CAN be powerwashed then sprayed with a light coat of black spray paint to freshen them up. Remember, only a mechanic looking under you car will ever see the underside of your car. For judging purposes (if that is the desired outcome) clean the undercoating from the frame rails and crossmember, and paint it black. I don't know the extent of AACA chassis judging, but the most important thing in BCA judging is cleanliness IMO.

Obviously, when rust through is an issue on floorpans, etc. you will need to clear the undercoating from that area.

Yes, Thanks Mike. This makes sense to me, even here in the Northeast. Luckilly I do not have a floorpan rust through issue. But I do have rust through starting just in front of the rear wheelwells.

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I did two body-on restos in a one car garage with not much wiggle room. One car scored 396 points and the other 398 in BCA judging so it can be done effectively using methods that would be considered primitive by many. I am blessed with a bigger garage, more tools and knowledge now and I look back an wonder how I did all that work in such a tiny space with very little tools.

I prefer starting with the body & paint. All the trim, glass etc can be stripped and do as much prep work as possible before taking the car to the body shop for final prep and paint. It sounds like you might already be past the paint stage so thats good.

When raising the car high enough to roll around under it comfortable I prefer to use cribbing (large blocks of hard wood) in like 12x14, 10x12, 8x8, 6x6 etc in succession maybe 12" to 14" long. I know big chunks of wood aren't easy to come by but thats what I prefer. Properly installed cribbing has more stability should the car be bumped or accidentally pushed. I do use jackstands at times but trust cribbing more when I'm doing serious work. Personal preference I suppose. The drawback is they take up more room under the car but I'd rather trade that inconvenience for increased security. I raise the car so the frame is at least 30" off the floor. This requires raising it in stages.

Next I carefully remove the front clip if it was assembled when painted. The engine and transmission come out. Then the firewall is stripped and everything forward comes off for detailing, rebuilding and cleaning including the suspension. Frame rails and firewall is detailed one section at a time then pieces start being restored one at a time and reinstalled until all is back together. This will be the most time consuming but will have the biggest wow factor when done.

With the front end done next remove the rear axle and gas tank. The axle can be prepped and sent out for blasting and epoxy primer. With the axle and tank out of the way the frame and underbody cleaning is next. Very grueling work but I've done it all by hand removing undercoating, rust etc. For undercoating I use a heat gun, putty knife scraper and screwdriver for the tight places. I used a combination of wire brushes by hand and a right angle die-type grinder with an assortment of wire wheels. I had to keep the dust down so I used hand power whenever possible.

Any coatings applied to the car underbody was hand brushed because my garage was part of the basement/house and I had to minimize the fumes. I used Rustoleum primer and paint and it held up fine for 18 years. Any parts that could be moved outdoors were spray painted there..... weather permitting of course.

With the undercarriage done, the rear axle, suspension and tank can be detailed and reinstalled with exhaust, brake lines, etc.

Forget about the pot blaster if you live in town with close neighbors. If your compressor is rated for continuous duty and puts out a minimum of 15 cfm @ 125psi you might want to look into a blasting cabinet system if you have space in your garage. The convenience of being able to take a rusty part, blast it, prime it and final paint all within minutes is a huge time saver. A 36" wide cabinet would be the min but I'd suggest a 48" wide. If you don't have the space try and find a local guy who will blast your parts.

Working in tight spaces forces you to be creative. I had a 7' ceiling so the only way to pull the engine with the car in the garage was to remove the front clip. The only way to get the axle out was have the car raised high enough because there wasn't enough side room or room at the rear of the car to take it out that way.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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Jason, thanks for the post. It is very informative. How did you raise your car up 30 inches? Wow. That woudl be great to work under, with that kind of room. Also, I liked the method of using the 6x6 or 8x8 to support the car instead of jackstands. Much safer I would think.

Do you have any pictures of your set up as you were working on the car? Those would be great, especially if you have some showing the wood blocking part. Thanks.

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Jason, thanks for the post. It is very informative. How did you raise your car up 30 inches? Wow. That woudl be great to work under, with that kind of room. Also, I liked the method of using the 6x6 or 8x8 to support the car instead of jackstands. Much safer I would think.

Do you have any pictures of your set up as you were working on the car? Those would be great, especially if you have some showing the wood blocking part. Thanks.

Jim,

I am sorry I do not have pics with the car blocked where the blocks are visible.

Going that high you should start with at least a 12x14 on the floor then another 10x12 on top of that progressively getting smaller and the one touching the frame can be a 6x6 or even 4x4 or 2x4. As far as the block on the floor you can also use a concrete block then put the wood on top of that. A sawmill can cut you a bunch of blocks fairly cheap. The reason I mention 12x14, 10x12 etc, is that by having blocks with a different height and width allows more options to get the exact height you need by turning them to the wide or narrow width.

I have big ones that are 12x14 then they get smaller after that. I work on tractors and excavating equipment and having these blocks are a godsend for the heavier stuff.

I raise the car with a 2 ton floor jack in increments so its not tilted too much when jacking at any location. When the jack runs out of stroke I place a 6x6 on it either horizontally, or I have some pieces that are 8-10" long and put them on the jack vertically for a few extra inches of lift. The 6x6 is slightly larger than the lifting cup diameter on the jack so is stable enough to use in that manner.

Again, the key is to go up a few inches at a time slowly while watching the jack and other blocks already in place so nothing starts to shift especially when you get past 24". When using 3-4 blocks stacked just make sure the load stays centered on the stack and always start with a larger block on the bottom for maximum stability.

Using the wrong combination/size of blocks can create a safety hazard. Once I have the car raised and blocked I always push on it side to side and front to back to make sure it is rock solid.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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One suggestion I would make with Jason's method is to have the block stacks oriented differently from one another. I would probably try to put them all on 30-45 degree angles relative to the car. That way, any stresses from one side won't necessarily topple the entire thing.

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Who was it on this forum who had wood blocks topple over and nearly crush him? Even though stacked as described sounds safe, I would trust metal jack stands more than stacked wood blocks. If height is the issue, maybe get some of the big equipment jack stands.

Considering the inherent danger here, this is one item where cost should know no bounds to get it right.

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Guest South_paw

You can get your car to a safe and very worker friendly height with a set of these

100_0804.jpg

floor%20replacement.jpg

They are 3 way wheel dollies. The top bracket is fully adjustable and can rotate 360. You can remove the top bracket and just use the U shape part to cradle the axle or you can remove the bracket assembly from the dolly frame and just use the dolly part

100_2761.JPG

I don't remember the exact price or manufacture... I think they were about $350 for all four. I can find out for sure come monday.

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Lou, thanks for the post. Those are some pretty nice jackstands. Definitely multi-purpose. About how high off the ground can you get the car with those? I like them because they are multipurpose and look pretty solid / sturdy.

Also, nice looking Mopar you have there. May I inquire as to what year it is? I would guess a 58 or 59. Looking real fine.

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OK Rob..you got me there! Missing all the stainless and chrome did me in. I did think the wheels were a bit unusual for a Chrylser product, but I thought they may be aftermarket? You never know..You have a great eye for details my man!

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Lou, looked at the restoration on your Project Omaha...holy moly!!! You are a maniac!! that car is awesome and beautiful to boot!! WOW!! So, you used a SS urethane for the primer underside and interior with a flattening agent. Looks great! I am planning to do that with mine as well, but frame on, hence the thread and these posts. Definitely looks great. I like what you did with the wheels as well...brilliant idea with the paint and the match.

Thanks for your input and the project impetus..can't wait to get mine out of storage in a couple of months to get cracking..right now I am like a squirrel..gathering all the stuff in the winter to SPRING on it when I get it home..

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Guest Albert

On thing you could do is do all the body work first, leaving the frame in place, then when it gets warmer out, remoe the frame from under it sand blast it, and paint it and slide it back in,, have done many like that in a weekend or 2

post-31131-14313839543_thumb.jpg

post-31131-143138395436_thumb.jpg

post-31131-143138395445_thumb.jpg

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Guest Albert

It helps when you a big air compressor 210 CFM, i use about 1200lbs of sand to do a complete frame and parts, the biggest problem i have is the time it take to reload the sand pot as it only holds about 150lbs, and i am using a 3/8 nozzel on my gun and about 100psi at the tip, the top pictures are of a 3/4 ton GMC truck for my brother, have also made up some saw horses from 3" channel to rest the frame on, ever the 3/4 ton frame 2 people can pick up and move around easy to flip it upside down,, But it does make a mess, or a beach..lol

post-31131-143138396339_thumb.jpg

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WOW! I hope you didn't put those clothes in the laundry for the Mrs. to do! If I did, my new home would be in the garage...permanently!

Albert, thanks for the post. I can imagine the the filling of the blaster would be the most tedious job. I was thinking of doing that, but with the car still on the chassis..but not sure that the neighbors would be happy with all the fall-out, since I live in a city neighborhood.

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